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AegisDei

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Posts posted by AegisDei

  1. B)-->

    QUOTE(G O B @ Nov 23 2006, 09:37 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

    I personally would use a Mossberg Maveric or 500 as a cheepo HD. But then I value the lives of my family and myself at something a little more than a Chincom POS.

    The 20" Mossy 590 with bayonet is the sickest for home defense. It doesn't matter if you run out of shells, you still got a 40" 15-pound club/spear. But they cost too much for me. I went with the 500 instead.

  2. I want to understand better the relationship between barrel length and shot group diameter placement. Does a shorter barrel = wider shot groups (in general)? I want a tight as possible group of the buck pellets. Thoughts on this?

    Generally, barrel length will not greatly change your pattern. What matters is the restriction through which you shoot. If you you shoot a 12" barrel that's muzzle is exactly even with a 30" barrel, the patterns will be virtually identical. You may see slightly more spread from the 12," but not much. If you shot the 30" the same position as you shot the 12", you'd notice a slightly more dispersed pattern because it had an extra 18" in which it could spread. But don't believe the common misconception that a sawed-off magically opens a pattern. It doesn't. It's just more concealable, more maneuverable, and will open it a little bit.

     

    I would be curious why you want a tight pattern. If you shoot 00-buck from a X-full choke, anywhere within 25yrds you may have about a 6" pattern. It would be almost like shooting a rifle. You'll have to get your shots on target, or you'll miss. The advantage of an open choke is that you don't have to be as on target. At 25yrds with cylinder bore your spread may be 24" or more. You don't have to be nearly as accurate. Those 00pellets are basically a .380, so even one of them will do damage.

     

    For a defense gun, I'd want a short barrel so it's maneuverable (clearing doorways, shooting off-hand, shooting from behind cover, etc.) and a very dispersed pattern so I don't have to be accurate. I can pepper a room while staying behind a corner. With a restricted choke tube, you'd have to be aiming carefully instead of just blasting. There's some good things to be said for aiming, don't get me wrong, but I'd opt for a carbine with subsonic ammo if I were having to aim.

     

    You know, a good friend of mine who is a weapons trainer for the Texas DPS Narcotics division once told me, "At close ranges (</= 25 yards) nothing but a tactical Nuke can match the firepower of a well handled 12 gauge shotgun."

    Hrmm...I don't trust myself with tactical nukes. The ammo is expensive, follow-up shots are non-existent, and I hear fall-outs a bitch. Carbines or shotguns are definitely the way to go.

     

    Depends on how many targets there are, how much time you have to get a shot on target, what kind of armor you might be faced with, and what the environment is. I'd rather have my shotgun for home-defense, but I'd choose my AR for anything else. The shotgun I don't have to worry as much about over-penetration and I don't have to be accurate. But it's lower capacity and doesn't fair well against armor.

  3. I have almost finished my saiga 12 conversion. I installed a k var us stock and a tdi forearm, sks hand guard, ergo grip, delrin fore grip. I cut the barrel to 19 inches and opened the gas ports. Just waiting on my custom hand guard retainer form dinzag. Should be here Friday or Saturday. And my agp 10 round mags will be here next week.

    I like it! That forearm/handguard looks nice.

  4. What I need to learn more about, and please let me know your opinions, is barrel lengths, and effectiveness of internally threaded chokes vs the standard Saiga tubes. I pretty much want this to be a CQB shottie so I will not be hunting with it (unless I HAVE to hunt those pesky 2 leggers...). I will shoot mostly 00, 000 buck and possibly some large shot like a 2 or a 4 occasionally.

    If you're really running only the bigger loads, then get as short a barrel as possible. If you can go SBS, do it: makes for a better CQB and a sexier gun. You shouldn't have too many problems with cycling unless you try the light stuff. If you do get into issues you should be able to fix them by opening up the gas ports. Check with Tony Rumore (tromix) to be sure, but I believe as short as ~14" can cycle heavy loads with just enlarging the ports. If you go much shorter you may have to rebuild the gas system.

     

    The Saiga choke tubes are fine, but they're harder to find and more expensive than Rem-chokes had at walmart for $5-10 a tube. Also, once you hack your barrel you'd have to get it re-threaded for them, so you mght as well go for internal threads. Be sure to use a good gunsmith though. The chrome-lined bore is tougher to thread, and since the barrel is not removeable, most standard threading rigs don't work with the Saiga.

     

    Hope this helps, goodluck with the new gun!

  5. If you are going to actually breach a door be sure to wear face protection regardless of load. Hope this helps.

    At the risk of sounding like a mom, at least always wear eye protection. :chris:

     

    But the shot doesn't disperse for a while after leaving the barrel. It's pattern will be a 3-d gaussian distribution that disperses with distance from the muzzle. Anywhere near the muzzle, and the distance of dispersion is too small to even notice. And even, if by fluke, a shot did manage to creep into the brake it'd not be displaced at a large enough angle to do anything but glance back into the shot-cluster. You're talking about a major deviation from it's original direction to bounce backward. All of the vectors point virtually the same direction, and unless there's an obstruction in the barrel that causes a richocet a major richocet it should never happen.

  6. I was checking my 12 gage off brand shot gun that I bought from the local surplus store here in Fort Worth. I converted it from a five/six shot weapon to a seven/eight shot firearm. As wirh any new toy, I checked it a few times to make sure it was operating right, and even took it in to a local armorer who did a lil fine tuning to make sure it was set up right! The weapons primary duty was to sit behind my bedroom door as a primary anti-fool disruptor device, (my area is very rought), and to act as a spear/club if it really gets bad.

    Anyway-yesterday I go to check its function and it only feeds the first five rounds! The last three are stuck in the tube! I had to nurse them out with my finger tips. Got them out and noticed the plug or end cap which should be riding on the end of the spring has not moved down. Have not taken it apart yet, but I'm wondering if the spring is hung up on something in the tube, or has the spring become week. Keep in mind that this shot gun began life as a chines import, I just jazed it up, but it should funtion fine with the right guts in it ..... right?

    Sounds like it's a good bet that it's the spring. If it started life as a 5-shot weapon, the spring's natural equilbrium will be the same. You can stretch it, but it will always endeavor to get back to its original length. Try to find a spring that goes in the Remington 870 mag-extention tubes. If that doesn't work, then you'll have at least trouble-shot the most obvious answer. That, or maybe the end cap is too large for the new section that you rigged up? Perhaps you can bore out the end section and be sure it's smooth and wide enough that the end cap won't catch anywhere?

  7. Hi all

     

    As you may be aware nearly all pistols in the U.K were banned during the period of 1997-1998 and we have been campaigning ever since to get them legalised again, now that the olympics are looming ever closer to London we have stepped up our battle to get pistols legal once again with a petition online on the governments website, if you can spare a few minutes of your time all we U.K shooters would appreciate it if you could follow the link below and sign the petition in support of our cause:-

     

    http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/TargetPistols/ <http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/TargetPistols/>

     

    thanks in advance

     

    assassin

    It says that the signor needs to be a British Citizen. Is this true?

  8. Just looking to convert a 7.62x39 Saiga to a PG config and retain 922r compliance w/ out my total cost going through the roof. I bought a Saiga because it was Russian made. I'd really like to not pay for a Russian-made AK in the process. Otherwise, I'd have been better off to just buy the Russian-made AK!

     

    Anyway. . .

    Haha, I understand. For a 7.62 I think it'd be fine. It doesn't kick as hard as a 12ga, so weak links in the stock are less likely to be an issue. A grip's a grip, so you ought be fine there as long as it has a screw hole and you find a good nut/bolt. Flash-hider is a flash-hider. As long as it's got the clearance for the caliber, you'll be set.

  9. I'm looking at some of the accessories listed on the akpartskits.com site; the 6-position stock, the regular PG and the A2-style flash hider.

     

    Their prices are much cheaper than anywhere else, which causes suspicion, already. I want to do my conversion inexpensively, not cheaply.

    Are you trying to build an AR or AK? If you're building an AR, I'd think it's fine to purchase parts there. My bet is they buy in high bulk and do minor modifications so the parts will work on either market: AK or AR.

     

    I briefly looked at the M4 T-6 stock for AKs. It is curious. It looks like they machined a block that would mount to an AK receiver and screwed in the stok. Notice, they say "High Quality Aluminum Instead of Cheap Plastic." This pretty much confirms my suspicion. However, it might work. I'd just worry that the more links, the more week points. So you'll have one link at the block to the receiver. And another at the stock to to the block. That might be ok. But I'd rather have a "cheap plastic" that was designed from the start for an AK instead of something rigged up after the fact.

     

    Just my $0.02

  10. Well, I like Glocks, but I'm on a bit of a budget here; $300 is the most I want to have to pay, although I'd be willing to maybe pay $350. The Steyr sight is supposed to be great for target acquisition, so it's definately an option, especially at the price.

    I'll probably get reemed for suggesting it, but the Hi-Points are a helluva gun for the money. Lifetime no-questions guarantee, accurate, reliable, and <$150. They're not as good as a Steyr, but for the price it's tough to beat. The only other thing to even consider in that price range would be a Makarov. But they'd be old, no guarantee, shoot an odd sized round, etc.

     

    It's rare, but I've seen:

    XDs ~$350

    Steyrs ~$250

    Hi-Points ~$100

     

    Those are the best valued pistols IMO. The Hi-point you won't love, but you'll love it for what you paid for it. The Steyr you'll either LOVE or hate depending on the way it fits you and how you like the sights. And the XD you'll love, but I don't think it's the same unconditional love that you'll have for a Steyr assuming it fits. My guess is, XD magazines are cheaper though, so that might be a consideration.

  11. Ditto the XD. The 45 ACP XD is the most awesome "real" pistol I've ever shot, bar none at any price.

    A bit bulky for C/C, but otherwise just plain awesome. For less than $450 out the door, you'd be hard pressed to obtain more bang for 'yer buck (or more hard-hitting firepower...)

     

    JMHO...

    Guido2 in Houston

    There's also 9mm, .40, and .357 (my favorite caliber). And they make a compact and subcompact if you want to use it as a CCW. Both are equally as reliable as the full size, and more ergonomic than Glock's equivalents (IMO). Not to mention a factory ported model. Such a sweet little gun!

     

    I think the XD is going to be the new Glock and will soon replace it as the most popular pistol.

  12. What's the general consensus on the S&W Sigma?

     

    I've been considering getting one after a Saiga; I've fired my uncle's .40, and love it. More ergonomic than the Glock and less expensive, with the same reliability. The trigger pull is nasty, but it's supposed to get better after several hundred rounds.

    I'd suggest going with a Glock for many reasons. Yes, the Sigma is very similar, but it's only a moderately successful imitation.

     

    1) Glocks are tried and true. There's a reason they're the best selling pistol.

    2) There's a HUGE aftermarket for Glock, so parts are cheap and available.

    3) Every gunsmith in the world has worked on a Glock and will gladly do it again.

    4) S&W is infamous for their autos breaking or otherwise being unreliable.

    5) S&W got sued by Glock for patent infringment, so there may be a limited availability of parts as they would had to cease manufacturing until the Glock's patent expired.

     

    I'm all about trying the "new best thing," especially if it's cheaper and naerly as good. But as good as a Glock? I doubt it. And I don't even like Glocks.

     

    Have you considered the Springfield XD? That's a HELLUVA gun. You might also consider CZ, Sig Sauer(especially older models), and Steyr.

     

    My list would look something like:

    1) Springfield XD

    2) Steyr M

    3) Sig

    4) CZ

    ...

    98) Airsoft

    99) S&W

    100) Nerf

  13. I can't believe you've gone this long without a response!

     

    An "action job" is usually the label referring to whatever tuning is necessary to give the desired reliability, repeatability and accuracy desired in a firearm.

     

    Generally, one might specify lightening and smoothing the double action trigger pull, having the single action trigger a sharp break at, maybe, 3 to 5 pounds, throating the barrel for reliable feeding of hollowpoints, etc.

     

    Refinishing, polishing the exterior of the gun, rounding off projections and sharp edges, would be considered work outside of an "action job"; but polishing the interior moving parts and whatever they rubbed against would be included.

     

    Instead of ordering just an "action job", any decent gunsmith will want to discuss specifics with you.

    Woohoo! A reply!!! :super:

     

    Thanks for the info! I guess I'll do some more research and contact whichever gunsmith I choose to see what their idea of an action job might entail. At least now I have a basis with which to judge their response.

  14. 4) Uh, you've compared apples to giraffe testicles here. A G3 is full auto, which has nothing to do with a semi-auto "assault weapon" ban, a PTR-91 is an American-made gun, and a CETME-- well that is probably the most relavant gun for your question. If it had "assault weapon" features before the ban, you could swap out/interchange "assault features" at your discretion, as long as you didn't change the class of the gun (i.e. make the barrel too short or make it full auto).

    ROFLMAO...

    Hrm, didn't mean to bring giraffe balls into the picture, sorry about that. But you figured it out, and answered all my questions. Thanks a ton!!!

  15. I was still too young to have much interest in guns when the last AWB was passed, and it lifted about the same time I started collecting weapons. What can we expect if there's another AWB? Is it trying to infringe on what we already have, or instead on what can be manufactured/sold? Specifically, please advise on the following:

     

    1) As long as we have the weapon already, can we convert them (saiga sporter->PG)?

    2) What constitutes a "high-cap mag" for a pistol, rifle, shotgun?

    3) As long as we have the magazines, are we allowed to use them? Or could that be breaking a law?

    4) If we have a weapon that is imported with PG (HK G3, PTR-91, CETME), can we swap out the grips, stocks and forends during a AWB?

     

     

    I really want a G3-clone, so I'll go ahead and purchase one if I won't be able to get it once another ban goes into effect. But I really don't have the money at the moment, so I'd like to wait. Will they be available during another AWB? Should I go ahead and get the magazines now (I'm assuming 20rnd mags are highcap) and hope I can get the gun at a later date in the midst of an AWB?

     

    Thanks for any advice y'all can offer.

  16. I don't know what's in it but it's called "inhibitor paper".

     

    This is from the paper that came with your owners manual:

     

    ATTENTION

    Parts are packed in inhibitor paper to prevent them from corrosion. Follow rules of Industrial safety measures when working with such paper.

    1.It is strictly prohibited to use inhibitor paper for wrapping of food stuffs, clothes, books, personal things,etc.

    2.It is necessary to wash hands and face with soap after work and before meal.

    3.It is not allowed to store inhibitor paper open, near acids, alkalis, radiators.

    4.After unpacking annihilate this paper.

     

    Use you own judgement but I don't see anywhere in there where it says it makes a good cat bed liner...

    Oh yea...I forgot that. People used to wrap sandwhiches and stuff in it and didn't die, so you probably don't have to rush Oreo to the hospital, but Cobra has a good point. Good lookin' out man!

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