AegisDei
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Posts posted by AegisDei
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I have an 18.5" cylinder bore barrel that I really want to get threaded for chokes. Only problem is, everyone I've talked to that usually does it uses pilots and a lathe and all you have to do is ship them your barrel ONLY. So I guess this is a 2 part question...
1) Can you remove the barrel? Because I thought it was pressed into the block, then riveted, and really ain't made to be removed.
2) Does anyone know a good place that does barrel threading and could accomodate the Saiga?
Thanks!
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Please post pictures as you do it. I won't abandon the simplistic beauty of an AK, but I would be interested in seeing what yours looks like when said and done. I may pick up a second Saiga if I like what I see and convert it.
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Thanks Bvamp for the manual. I'm not the most observant, I've probably read 90% of your posting and never noticed it. Now I finally have a manual of my own! It feels like Christmas. Seriously. Though it was kinda nice not having it because I got to figure out a lot of stuff on my own, and learn a lot through y'all and that experiential learning has helped me get to the point where I can at least understand the manual.
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LMAO, hell yea! You must be a redneck too. First thing I did was pick up a watermelon, two cantelopes, two coconuts, some 7.5s and some slugs. I felt like Gallager only not in some fruity outfit with a pussy little mallet: I had a 12-gauge!
If you really want to impress your friends, see if you can't round someone up who thinks their Binelli is the shit. Feed yours non-recoil reduced slugs, and their's the same. That's what super-sold me on how great this gun is! I shot dude's "hot-shot" binelli and he shot my "russian toy" with those rounds and he hated himself for paying 3x the price for a beefier kick, less accuracy, and slower rate of fire. And you can bet your ass if you dragged that thing thru the mud, ran it over with a truck, and then submerged it that he'd be out a pretty penny while I'd be out a rag and some grease. God bless the AK. So simple any peon can pick it up and be lethal, but so reliable, durable, and fun. (just be careful with that damn bolt-assembly, I'm still embarassed I had such a tough time with it).
Have fun with it. Also, practice your reloads now. I embarassed myself when I was showing mine off when it took me 5 minutes to get the darn thing rocked into place.
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Interesting. When I was bumping with light loads I noticed it worked best when I was barely pulling on the gun. When I pulled too hard, it kept the trigger from resetting, so I had to ease off and I got it workin' like a champ. What's the technique for double-taps?
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Well once you get it back together you feel pretty GD stupid. Thanks for the info, I was just SO frustrated I didn't search back far enough in the threads. But the bugger's back together and cleaned and lubed.
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So yea...I've had my gun forever, but I just got around to cleaning it today. Main problem: I can't get it reassembled. These are supposed to be simple enough for a Russian peon to pick up on a battle field and immediately know how to work it, and I can't even figure out how to put the damn thing together.
I don't even know the names of everything, so hopefully y'all can help me out. When you rack the slide, that rod thing comes out of the gas tube. Attached to that is what looks to me like an internal hammer. I can get the bolt/rod thing to get into it's tube if the hammer-assembly isn't in the way. But when I put the hammer-assembly thing in, I can't get the rod into its tube. (I sound like an idiot). I don't have an instruction manual, and I can't find the info I need in a quick search. There's the notch cut into the rod-thing for the hammer assembly to slip up into, but I can't get the rod to go into its tube if I have the hammer thing up in the notch. If anyone knows what in the hell I'm talking about, please advise. If you don't know what I'm talking about, can you just give me instructions in your own words? Thanks!
Sincerely
Pissed off Idiot
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Sweet, I'm definately going to build my own and use the saved money to customize it to be EXACTLY what I want, instead of someone else's project or a mass-produced item. I was planning to spend ~$1400 without optics, so I figure if I invest that into something I build myself it should be pretty nifty. Thanks for all the help, and I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way as I delve deeper into the project. Have a great one!
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So I'm confused on optics. The side mounts on the Kobras...does that preclude folding the stock?
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I'm still worried about this ban on .50BMGs. SO I'm tempted to save all I got and throw it into a Barrett .50 mag-fed bolt-action. However, I don't even have a place to shoot it and I sure is hell can't afford the ammo or the gun for that matter, but I'm going to get one before they're banned even if it puts me into debt up to my ears.
Much more practical is an AR. I want to get into 3-guns, and it would be useful for competition, but regardless, I can use it on ranges around here or out in the boonies where some of my family/friends live and let me shoot on their property. Not to mention I could afford it more easily and I could afford to shoot it.
Obviously, any gun is an investment. I don't think I've bought one yet that I couldn't sell for more than I bought it for. But here's my questions for the forum.
1) Do I need to be ultra-worried about the .50-ban? Or do I have some time to save up and in the mean-time get an AR?
2) I've heard that when purchasing ARs, one should follow the ABC rule: Armalite, Bushmaster, Colt. However, how's DSA compare? They're the current makers of FALs, but have the AR-type rifle which I'm most interested in getting. The following link is for the one that I'm most interested in, can some of your more experienced fellows give me your opinion on it as compared to an ABC?
http://www.dsarms.com/item-detail.cfm?ID=D...&image=s20b.gif
Thanks for y'all's help. Next topic...AR optics! But that'll be a ways off, just figured I'd mention it so those that are willing can start thinking about it.
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Hrm...so I'm in a pickle and was hoping y'all could help me figure it out. I eventually want a .50BMG, preferably a Barrett Magazine-Fed Bolt Action, but those puppies cost an arm and a leg (~$5500). So here's my question...
I'd rather wait until I can better afford the gun, but if it's going to be outlawed, then that might not be such a great option. NY and CA have already banned them (that I know of, there may be more states by now), but these are somewhat liberal states. Do you think there'll be a nation-wide ban?
If there is a nation-wide ban, will .50s become like fully automatic weapons and skyrocket in price (ie: a great investment) after the new laws go into effect? I see fully automatic Uzis going for ~$7k when they originally cost $700, so is there the same kind of potential for .50s? Or will they be outlawed to the point where even a Class III won't allow their trade on the market?
Basically, I'm trying to figure out if I need to rush my decision to buy one, and if I do rush the purchase, see if I could recoop some of the cost if I had to part with it due to future financial difficulties. Also, I'm curious if I should try to pick up 2 of them, one for myself and one to sell at 10x the price like the Uzis.
Thanks for your opinions. -
So I know that the bullpup is used for a short overall length with a maximal barrel length to improve ballistics, which is great in theory. But how is it in practice? Have many of y'all shot a bullpup, and is it at all comparable to normal AR15s? Seems like having the action right under your face would be rather uncomfortable, and it just doesn't seem as natural ergonomically speaking. Any opinions? Thanks!
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Awesome! Thanks BattleRifle. That was a killer explanation in terms of physics and non-physics. I finally understand how my shotgun works now!!! 
I really appreciate you taking the time to explain all that, thank you. This forum rules.
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For those of us that aren't up on our .22lr and .223 and Beo.50 and .50BMG's, can we get a quick rundown? Thanks
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A couple questions...
1) How reliable is the rumor that it's coming out in .223?
2) I just searched for the Hi-Point 995C online and found it's <$200...is that an accurate quote, or is that an overpriced toy?
3) How does the Hi-point compare to the Kel-tec Sub2k9?
4) Is either the Kel-tec or the Hi-Point easily compatible with a silencer?
Thanks for the help.
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Is that the Fal muzzle break?
How long's your barrel?
BEAUTIFUL look to it, I love the Dragonov appearence, is there matching wood anywhere for the buttstock? If so I think I'd cream myself if I saw it all together. A Dragy .410, yeehaw!
Lastly, since the optic is so far offset, doesn't that mean the point of impact will differ drastically for different distances to your target? I guess that's the case with any optic, even sites, but it seems more intuitive to merely aim higher at far targets when the optic is in line with the gun. I can't even figure out how you'd compensate for the optic being off line with the gun. I do love the idea of the offset though, it seems much more natural, so please inform me how you deal with targets at 10, 25, 50, 100, 100+ yards with that mounting style. Thanks!
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I'm really interested in this too, and I have lots of physics experience. If you can, please explain what the options are and how the physics behind it is working for my own edification. Thanks!
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Yep, yep...I need a towel. The Saigas are sweet, but that Drag...russian, chinese, or a good fabrication? Regardless, beautiful.
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There are ACE recoil pads made...1/2"-1". They're nice too. I'd suggest going with them instead of the grenade launching pad.
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There have been a few 12K's imported, but they're outrageously expensive. I saw one on gunsamerica.com a few months ago for ~$1800. I'd suggest you just get a 12C and modify it to the specifications that you want, but I'd warn against trying to emulate the 12K. The bulgarian side-folding stock is a bitch to get on the gun, and isn't very good once there. First off, it's a short stock made for people shooting in thick winter coats. So unless you're under 5'6" you'll really have to add the butt-pad which doesn't fit the stock well. Secondly, it's hard as hell to install because the length of the shotgun shell extends into where the stock should mount, so it takes some customization to make work. And lastly, when the stock is folded, the kick from the gun is enough to "unfold" it every shot. It's supposed to snap into place and be held by a little clasp like lever, but shooting a 12gauge round will pull it out from the clasp so you have to hold it closed manually which is annoying. I'd suggest the Dragunov style stock that TopMaul has in his avatar if you want a practical shot gun, but if you insist on the agility of a folding stock, I'd really suggest a scorpion top folder if you can find it. They're by far the neatest looking, and they are longer so would provide a better fit, not to mention the kick will not "unfold" it. Just my $0.02
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TopMaul, sorry to hear about the bad day.
That's definately not sounding too fun. But lessons learned, and next time will surely be better.Is anyone aware if the firing pin issue that he had a common problem with the Saiga, or if there's anything that can be done to fix it? I'm a bigger fan of avoiding problems than fixing them, so I figured I'd check. Not to mention, I'm hoping to compete soon too and don't need issues popping up when I'm not ready for them. Thanks!
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So I'm most interested in the Taurus 24/7 and am thinking of getting one in 9mm. Anyone have a personal review? Also, DAO=Double Action Only? Since it has the manual safety, why would they design it DAO? I want a short trigger pull, and last time I checked DAO meant a long, heavy pull every time.
Just to be sure I am not confusing my acronyms, can I get a run down of DAO, DA, SAO, SA, and DA/SA for both revolvers and semis? Thanks.
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Dave will do a great job: simply top-notch. Forgive him if it takes a tad longer than 2 weeks, I doubt it will, but I think you might be right about the American Chopper thing with the "challenged co-workers". It took a little longer with mine than originally predicted when he took on my project, but he did an awesome job and I'm so glad he took the time to do it right. Definately post pictures of your's as soon as you get it back, I'm eager to see more of his work.
Just think, you probably spent ~$300 for the gun and about the same for mods. The only other boys with a semi-auto worth a damn are those with Binelli's. Only catch is, they're not PG, they're not tactically practical, they cost a helluva lot more than $600, they kick like a donkey, they're slower to load, they cost more to shoot, and they're less fun to shoot. If someone sees a Binelli they might respect it for it's cost and refinery, but when someone sees a Saiga it's respected because it's functional and kicks-ass. Man I love these guns.
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Thanks all for the input. I wasn't sure if an in-attic range would be possible, but it definately doesn't sound too feasible. I have shot pistols indoors and unfortunately know how loud it is, but I've only shot at ranges which are essentially enclosed concrete boxed. I was hoping with insulated walls, it would absorb some of the sound wave's impact, and not make it quite as unbearable.
However, I've never shot subsonic ammo before in my life. I know with a suppressor it makes a difference, but neither my friend nor I live in an area where suppressors are legal, not to mention the cost of a can is pretty steep when added to the cost of subsonic ammo, and the gun itself. So I'll go with y'all's advice and be grateful that I got it before he made a mistake with the attempt.
However, just for my own edification:
1) How much quieter is subsonic ammo?
2) I shoot once a weekend at an indoor range, and I'm assuming that it's vented well. Should there ever be a concern for the recreational shooter about lead poisoning?
Thanks all!
Barrel Threading
in Saiga-12
Posted
I've found one gun-smith about 90 miles away that might can do it, but he wants to do barrel measurements. I don't want to drive 90 miles when I figured some of y'all might have these. If someone has inside and outside diameter, it'd be a huge help. All I have is a tape-measure, so I need a caliper measurement. Thanks