hutchsaiga
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Posts posted by hutchsaiga
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Pics would really help. Of the gas block and both the handguard and gas tube.
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Holy shit people it's an AK. not your granddaddies 45-70. Zero it, and procede to shoot as much ammo at as many targets as possible. In a safe manner of course
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It's not going to fix your problem at all. The proper way to fix your rifle is to remove the FSB and gas block. Weld up the gas port and redrill smaller. Reinstall gas block, hg retainer and FSB. If you don't do that you're just placing a band aid on it. This is all assuming its VERY overgassed and is rolling and peening the back of the carrier. If its not. Then I'd just shoot it the way it is
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I suggest getting the already converted one. All the hard work is already done, and you have a genuine Russian AK.
Depending on how handy/experienced you are with tools, you might do a better job than the company has on that already converted Saiga. If not, then you might mess it up somehow. Sometimes companies mess up too, though. For example, I recall seeing a welded bullet guide giving out and falling out.
Still, though, I'd say get the converted one. I had to leEarn a ton of things and put in hours of research before I did my own conversion.
Well said.
If you are not willing to put in the time to do research, Or you just can't seem to change a lightbulb without breaking something. Then go with a converted rifle.
If you are capable, have tools, and willing to do te needed research then 95% you can do a better job than most conpanies
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.Well I never got around to getting a Saiga 7.62x39, mainly because I havn't seen one. I leaning toward a VZ58 now, it seems like it's the best of both worlds, stripper clips and high cap mags. I'm not sure if it's supposed to be as reliable or not. Anyone have one?
I don't personally have one but I have fired two that buddies own. They never have problems with them, except for mags being a little hard to find sometimes.
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2. Unlikely. But double check to make sure the hammer is facing the correct direction and that there is a disconnector spring installed
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cheap insurance
Ahhhhhh false.
If you're making serious contact with the trunnion. Why would you want to stick a piece of junk in there to make the contact happen earlier in the rearward movement of the carrier when it is traveling more forcefully?? Either you have an oversized gas port or you need too look into a stronger recoil spring. Fix shit right, a buffer is NEVER the answer.
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As others said, run it, it'll wobble with time.
Probably just got dimpled a little tighter than others
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A adjustable rear won't help your wiggle problem.
I cured mine by removing the leaf. Welding a ball on the side of it(where it contacts th ears around the leaf). Filed to fit. Then painted it.
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The "best" way is to drill out the dimples and press it off:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vK0ARvV9qE#t=5m25s
Dremeling the GB in half is the cheapest for most people...
Kinda disagree with this. I have a 20ton press, but decided to cut mine off becuase it took less time and setup. If you do not want to keep the blocks I see no downside to carefully cutting them off.
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Dremel a line almost through horizontally then whack it with a hammer and chisel. It'll break right off.
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Why would one buy this extra weight when the TWS rail cover is about the same price and offers intergrated duty?
Sorry, I forgot about the 'purist' thing.
Because this comes off quicker and easier than anything on the TWS, unless they also buy a QD mount.
If one can cowitness a q/d is really not necessary.
Unless you spider your glass of course. Not really
A problem on aimpoints but the trs25 I have on mine could benifit from QD someday
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Nothing wrong with Tapco mags......not "Mil-Spec".....but in my personal experience and that of many others.....a reliable mag.
OK....doesn't have metal mounting tab, ...not Mil-Spec like Combloc. But work fine and are tough.
As long as you understand what you're buying....they're OK.
You do realize you just said there is nothing wrong with tapcos, then said what's wrong with tapcos...don't you?
But alas. That's for another thread
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Nice job. Tearing down the trigger group is pretty much the easiest of any rifle, so you shouldn't need to practice, once you put it in, and know how it works. It's pretty easy from there.
Glad to see you're gunna replace that tapco side folder. They get pretty shitty feedback on here
And also... Shoot the living shit out of it:)
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Makes me wonder if you were leveraging it the wrong way, or that latch got a funky heat treat. Becuase I don't think I could break mine without a hammer, they are a pretty solid little piece
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Usually means they busted the tap off and were too lazy to fix it right.
Not even slightly true. Many companies that convert the rifles, and gunsmiths, weld them becuase it takes far less time than drilling, tapping, and threading in a screw.
What I would do if I were the op. would be buy ten more mags. And check all of them for function, if they work, pitch the shitty mag.
Id still take anyone's bet that your mag is the culprit.
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Nice job. It looks great
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If its only with one of the mags, it's got to the mag. Mark it with paint or tape something and use it for the range only. Makes a good training device for clearing malfs.
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How does that bayo fit? My bulgy one is all loosey goosey and floppy on my fsb and muzzle brake.
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In the end it's YOUR desicion wether you want to be complaint to 922r. Not anyone else's. It's completely up the individual...some people just like to meddle:)
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niceeee!!!post a vid of it surpressed.
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lookin good bud. keep it up!!
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i love how some of the photos feature the "super fast tacticaaaal reload device"...................on a rifle with a bullet button
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UPDATE:
My new 74' style selector and gas tube came into from Markw. I fitted the gas tube and it was very easy to install with not much filing unlike match an akm gas tube to a saiga. It also solved the problem of the older akm gas tube not being able to lock in place because of it hitting the lower handguard retainer. I also had to take a little off of the selector to be able for it to fit which was no problem with the dremel. After I had the selector fitted I marked the spot where the semi auto selector notch should go. I took a dremel with a cut off wheel and slowly went to work constantly stopping to check the references I had on correct size and placement. I decided against putting the full auto selector notch because of having to push the selector past that point to fire. I actually found out that it fires just fine when the selector is where the full auto notch would be but I still am not going to put it on there for the time being. I still will stamp the full auto and semi cyrillic markings AB, and OA respectively. Or cyrillic DB, OA. I will update with pictures tomorrow.
Question: When I pressed on the new gas block I lined up the bulgarian rear pin hole with the original rear pin hole for the stock saiga gas block. Then I drilled the front pin hole and pressed it in. I thought this would be a perfect placement because the two gas blocks look almost identical in size. I also didn't have the gas tube I was going to be using at the time so I couldn't test fit it. Now there is a gap between the lip of the gas block and the end of the gas tube ~3mm in length. Is this okay or should it be closer? Seeing that the gap is close the 3mm I don't think it would be wise to move and re pin. Also it has been test fired and the barrel hole and gas block lines up.
My gas block is the same way. It functions fine and I think it looks fine too. It's the easiest way to get it aligned too
Tasco red dot scope
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
Posted
I have used many cheap red dots and trust me the apprx. $80 for a bushnell trs 25 is well well worth it. Than again the $500 for a aimpoint micro is too but that's clearly another story. Cash in the quarter jar and get a trs 25 it's the best for the price. Guaranteed.