hutchsaiga
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Posts posted by hutchsaiga
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The real question here is why? What bothers you about just putting a in a saiga bullet guide and keeping the third rivet?
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Wow! Awesome post TX and awesome website as well
Thanks for taking your time to do these tests and post results.
Ps. Very very very jealous of you're collection of Russian optics! I'll give you my info so you can put me down as the beneficiary;)!!
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No buttplate or sling loop?
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put a birds head grip on that serbu
And get a nice leather holster!!
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I stick with older vehicles.
I work with large scale recycling (a lot of whole vehicles) and the sturdiness of older vs new equipment is crazy. The exception is windows.
I get top put hammer/crowbar/whatever to vehicles pretty much whenever I feel like it at work and spend a whole lot of time taking stuff off them to extract valuable/volatile stuff (mercury, palladium).
Most modern cars are built very lightly with new beetles, prius and ford rangers topping the list of drunk-engineer-specials. Jeeps are pretty nice, subarus are decent too.
Modern window glass is silly-strong often being very difficult to break (broke my 10oz hammer handle on a qx4 side window yesterday, glass held)
True story. Even steel on cars doesn't quite seem like steel, and were I'm from new vehicles rust faster than bare steel on a ship.
Im in the market for a wrangler now. But I'm going early TJ:) I just love the 4.0 to much to get one with that chryco v6 abomination in it.
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don't worry about shooting it, just keep it clean afterwards
Polly want a cracker?
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Evidence for you
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If you use a muzzle us made muzzle brake
You will have 3 parts with your mags and 1 with your handguard. And be complaint
You will have to use a US muzzle brake or you won't be complaint.
But..... You should still convert the rifle to its true and intended form
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Ultimak and aimpoint do;) hands down
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Nice work. You got the parts from markw I take it?
I doubt you bent the barrell.it may have flexed slightly but they are thick and very hard. How did it shoot when you took it out?
The ak74 gas tube works perfectly on my rifle do I think that should solve your issue. I got mine from markw as well
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Yes i agree jimmy ,also after some research the serial number falls right in the middle of the supposed Venezuela overrun ,
it may be collectable but ill still be shooting is as normal ,hope the guy dont get to pissy when he gets my e-mail telling him i don't want to
give the gun back ,but hey i paid $1400 for it NZD of course so it will be staying with me
It may be semi collectible but don't feel guilty about shooting it normally. Just don't drive over it or let it rust;)
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And is it just me or does the milspec barrel seem to be thicker than the saiga barrel?
Barrels measure very close in diameter, in two different spots. I see .594" and .573" on the factory Saiga barrel. .596" and .574" on the new barrel. Could very well be a difference in coating thickness. All of those numbers are fore and aft of the gas blocks. The picture is deceiving for sure.
Thanks mullet. That's what I figured
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I wanted the old school Romanian BFPU style. When I first put the Romanian wood on the saiga, the rifles finish looked to nice for the old furniture. So I thought I would age the saiga finish to make it older instead of refinishing the wood. Funny I made this rifle look future new with plastic tapco only to end up going back to the basics. Think I'm finally done now...
how did u get the metal to look like that, its awesome
If I had to guess. I'd say 600grit sandpaper
Not a bad guess hutchsaiga, It was 220 grit. I just lightly sanded everywhere in a back to forth motion.
If you dont mind my asking. What made you go with a birdcage over the more traditional slant brake?(well traditional to Romy AKM like your is cloned of at least)
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Excellent work! I really need to get a press and an end mill. so much I could do myself and its all stuff I like to do. Now I just need to quit buying aks and start buying tools.
And is it just me or does the milspec barrel seem to be thicker than the saiga barrel?
They look damn close to me. Mind sticking a Mic on em mullet?
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I just carefully position mine on the bump. It has worked to push it all around. Just thread the tool in very slowly until you make firm contact, keeping aligned while you do
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So I got a V1 Echo 93 Sling mount on my Saiga...this is probably my favorite mod so far...allowing me to use my single point sling...best 25 buckeros ever.
Is that the one that is kind of a plate those goes between the pistol grip and the receiver? If so, those provide a little more rigidity to the receiver at the PG nut hole, which is another positvie
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.if your that worried about 922r, just replace the gas piston and get the foreign made muzzle device. You could also replace the follower or floor plate on your magazines
isn't the gas piston a bitch to replace? are there any good universal US made followers or floor plates you'd suggest?
Piston is pretty easy. Just make sure you measure first and thread the new one do it is the same length as factory. Drill out dimple, unthread, thread on new one and drill and pin it.
Staying 14mm is probably a good a idea if the barrel is threaded already. Good, functional, brakes in that thread are slant brake, tapco slot brake, and battle comp. the first two being your cheapest options
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Mines all in a mix of 50cal and 20 and 40mm surplus ammo cans with desiccant scattered throughout.
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Everyone's beef with it is the weight.
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Wanna make it better?
Produce more ammo. The more we have the cheaper it will be.
So with the Homeland Security contract for 450 million rounds of .40 S&W JHP; splain to me how the price didn't come down Lucy?
1911
I thought our government agencies could only use FMJ?...so wth with JHP huh?
No sir, our military can only use FMJ as per the Geneva Convention. Government Agencies intent on murdering American citizens can use JHP. Hope that clarifies.
1911
I have a close friend who is an armorer currently in Afghanistan. And this is partially true but also partially untrue. Our military is using massive amounts of expanding ammunition technically outlawed by the geneva convention, but is allowed becuase enemy combatants are terrorist organizations or insurgent forces which do not apply to the Geneva convention since they are not considered a nations military.
Wanna make it better?
Produce more ammo. The more we have the cheaper it will be.
So with the Homeland Security contract for 450 million rounds of .40 S&W JHP; splain to me how the price didn't come down Lucy?
1911
I thought our government agencies could only use FMJ?...so wth with JHP huh?
False.
Leo's use high quality expanding ammo, normally in the flavor of winchester ranger +p
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Just curious, any opinions on those reflex sights?
My opinion is they are all junk. The trs 25 and primary arms micro are the best under $100 sights to mount on an ultimak. Absolutly no question in that
What was yer original answer before you saw the "under $100" Corbin? Which generation of Primary Arms? Thanks for the input gentlemen.
Aimpoint aimpoint ampoint, wait for it... one more time, aimpoint
T1-h1-r1 are all ideal for the ultimak. Although I don't think you'd need NV capability
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I wanted the old school Romanian BFPU style. When I first put the Romanian wood on the saiga, the rifles finish looked to nice for the old furniture. So I thought I would age the saiga finish to make it older instead of refinishing the wood. Funny I made this rifle look future new with plastic tapco only to end up going back to the basics. Think I'm finally done now...
how did u get the metal to look like that, its awesome
If I had to guess. I'd say 600grit sandpaper
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Are you talking about using the rifle without a trigger guard? Becuase that's the way your post is worded.
Ilike chili said the trigger guard is not a 922r part, but using a rifle without one, that's pretty dumb don't you think?
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I have never welded holes and cannot find a tutorial on how to do so. I am using a flux cored arc welder without gas. I know i need to clamp on a piece of aluminum/brass/copper on the inside of the receiver but other than that I have no clue. All I have ever welded were simply joints and that was along time ago.
You are going to need too take the paint off the area around the hole, and somewhere else for
Your ground as well
Welding holes is pretty straight forward. Find a 1mm piece of steel to get the hang of it first(like you said earlier) your heat won't have to be all that high but you'll need to have you're wire speed fairly fast. Start in the inside edge of the hole and work around in a circular motion,around the inside edge of the circle, if you have your wire sped fast enough, you should have a sufficient plug to grind down flat. Make sure you Try on a scrap piece of steel first though, after three holes you'll have the hang of it
Achieving 922R with Sporter Stock & Muzzle Brake
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
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I was under the assumption he also wanted to use over 10rnd mags