hutchsaiga
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Posts posted by hutchsaiga
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Does anybody have tech sights on their saiga? I put em' my ruger 22 and love em'. Put a cheap red dot on the saiga.....hate it!
Get a decent red dot and mount it on an ultimak or kalinka bp02
Then you'll love the red dot
Part of the beauty of the ak is how easy it Breaks down, tech sights ruin that
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I'd contact legion or whomever you purchased it from, return it, and get a kalinka bp02
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Bushnell trs 25 or primary arms micro are the best onthe under $100 category
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Why no love for the utg quad rail? Is it because its from Korea? What are the flaws with this rail?
Check out the thread you started, I just posted the answer in there;)
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No problemo
About the quality Of the utg rail; I hear it is a surprisingly solid piece, the only thing that blows(like most other inexpensive rails for other rifles) is the wieght. They tend to
Make your rifle unwieldly, and take away from the pointing speed combat rifles are supposed to benefit from
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Like madhatter said. Why on earth would you take off a 24mm fsb???
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"converted to 5.56x45"
Lol!!!!!
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No chrysler or gm products. Ford, toyota, nissan, subaru, honda, hyundai.
As far as the Cherokee goes, Chrysler did virtually nothing to the base design. 98-01 XJ was still mostly a rock-solid AMC design, with some styling improvements from Chrysler, and a very reliable EFI system for the 4.0. Unlike the rest of their product lineups at the time, the Cherokee was rarely plagued by gremlins because it was mechanically and electrically simple. It also has one of the most durable and reliable automatic transmissions in an SUV, the AW4. This is the same auto used in most Toyota trucks/SUVs. Unlike Explorers, Durangos, Blazers, etc. the Cherokee's transmission is generally not something you have to worry about when towing, or even breaking down under normal conditions. It will last as long as the 4.0 it's bolted to.
+1
Cherokees with a 4.0l, an Aisin Warner aw4, a Chrysler 8 1/4" rear axle and Dana 30 front is probably one of the most reliable drivetrains ever in the suv market! (besides the rare tow packages with the d44 rear of course)
Just be cautious of rust in certain climates and theyre good for 300kmi . My 96 has 240k and runs great but is getting to rusty to keep repairing. Oh and did I mention it's been totaled by the insurance company 3 times;) one of them being a rollover, she's a champ
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helmforge.blogspot.com
Awesome zombie killers
Hammer forged by hand in the good ol US OF A!!
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Wow totally forgot about this thread. She's all gorgeous now:)
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I recently did mine minus a few items on your(wood finishing,riveting bullet guide etc)
Like I said in other threads. Just
Make sure you have your fsb and gasblock straight and aligned, drill one
Hole, pin, zero the rifle to confirm then do
Your second pin. I actually had to drive out my first pin after I zeroed becuase the fsp was pushed to far one side for my liking.
You can see my thread here http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/75449-changing-a-welded-on-fsb/page__pid__750826__st__30#entry750826
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Jeep. With a 4.0l. Well cared for gets you 300k mi easy
Also very affordable
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Dude Saiga's are tight! that GB is not going to come off with out a press and a press plate. I hope you did push the locating pin out first.
There is that handguard locator pin that you need to remove.
Are you sure you gb isn't dimpled like on most
Also +1 on soaking in penetrating oil
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do these screwed on guides need locktite to stay on?
and i tapped my hole in 5 mins, if you feel any force just stop and start over goes real fast
Locktite is a good idea. You never plan on removing it, so red is fine
As for all these folks breaking taps: it's clear the ones that come in kits are junk. I've tapped thousands of holes in all kinds of steels and never broken a tap from the kit my dad bought 35years ago
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Had the gas tube rail on my 7.62x39...for a couple of hours. Realized I'd have to modify the OEM handguard if I wanted to use it, so took a few minutes to see if I really wanted to mount anything up there before hacking up the handguard.
Turns out, I didn't. The Burris EER scope I have didn't have enough eye relief to work; the Leupold pistol scope had too much. I'm not big on red dots, as I often leave switches on and run down batteries. So, off came the Ultimak. It's still sitting in its box.
Wasn't about to buy the Ultimak lower handguard. It looks nice, but Boomsick's right. I'd have as much in Ultimak rails as I have in the rifle itself. That doesn't seem right.
Leaving switches on isn't really an argument against red dots. That switch creates illumination which is more than very valuable
In low light situations and leaving them on is a non issue with optics like the t1/h1 which last more than five years on full brightness
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please stop with the name calling, youre gunna hurt my feelings
but in all seriousness, it woud be plenting easy enough for you to put on a bolt on handguard retainer like the one from www.saiga-ak.co(link not completed due to forum rules) and throw on some AK handguards
boom theres one step done.
now go buy a bullet guide from www.carolinashooterssupplys.com take it and the screw to a local machine shop. id be willing to bet that you can find one in your area, or heck i bet even a mechanic would do it, be desreet(dont just walk in with a gun) call ahead, and take time to carefully explain what you want done, take it in, stand with the nice fellow who will probably charge you 25bucks to drill and tap the hole. then you can redlocktite your bullet guide in and file your mag catch on your own.
now id look for a certified gunsmith to thread the barrel, or even change it out to an ak74 front sight base for you which would probably cheaper.
with this sequence of events you wont have the AK gasblock, but heck many people on this forum don't, and it isnt an immediatly recognizable feature.
so since you have an attachment to your rifle, this would probably be the easiest and cheapest way to get the look you desire
you're welcome
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They are Batch tested. Not every rifle is thoroughly inspected. They are all test fired quickly and looked over but only one rifle per batch is examined with a fine tooth comb
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Here's a few of me. All bearded now, but not nearly as scary as chile;) haha
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Pictures of a stepped chamber can be found here
And this what the handguard notch looks like(this is the one I made becuase my rifle didn't have one)closest to the camera is the gas block, and the notch is on the top of the barrell with th slots running down the sides
But remember this two things are not a guarantee they just increase your chances(especially on an 09 manufacture)
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Too attached to sell?? Yet your worst case scenario is destroying your $350 rifle that you seem to be so attached too??
Maybe it's time to rethink your plans here and get a better worst case scenario?
As for dickish comments to me I have one reply and only one; don't be all butthurt towards me becuase you cant follow instructions or use tools:)
For your exact situation, the best advice bar none, has already been given. sell the saiga, buy an arsenal or iz332 from atlantic(and do the FCG) and be done
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Or you could just buy the AK-74 style brake that CSS sells for $21
AK74 STYLE MUZZLE BRAKE-SAIGA RIFLE AK47
SKU: AK74-BRAKE
SAIGA 223, 5.45x39, 7.62X39 and AK47's
SAIGA RIFLES MUST BE THREADED 14 x 1 LH TO USE
MADE IN THE USA DPH ARMS
PRICE: $21.95
Sure, if you want a fishing weight. That muzzle device is not a faithful reproduction of the 74-type brake, so it's not very effective.
A slant brake would be far more effective at combating muzzle rise than those crappy repops. My actual 74 brakes have the wider bottom portion than the top, holes in the top and the zig zag cuts. That thing lacks all those features.
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Nice rifle. Shoot the shit out of it!!
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All those things are quite easy with hundreds of threads on and can be done with minimal tools of you use a bolt on retainer.
But if you want the most efficient and cheapest route without you getting your hands dirty...sell the saiga and buy an arsenal. Between back and forth shipping and the parts, and cost of gunsmith doing the labor. You'll be at the price of an arsenal from atlanticfirearms.com in no time
Yeah, but when you live in an apartment, buying tools like a drill press can be hard. ;p I also don't have a dremel or pipe threader. To be honest threading the barrel scares the piss out of me, so does tapping and drilling the bullet guide.
I'm thinking if the work is "so easy" SOME gunsmith should be willing to do it without charging $700 bucks.
Don't get all snide with me. The work is "so easy" and I didn't Say a gunsmith would charge $700 bucks. What I said was; between parts, shipping, FFL transfers, time and hassle you'd be better off selling the saiga and buying an arsenal if you don't want you to get your hands dirty.
Reading comprehension FTW!!!!!
How do I remove 24mm fsb on 762x39 saiga 332 ?
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
Posted · Edited by hutchsaiga
Does The brake still thread on? Weld up the cut in the sight tower( or solder) then paint it if it does