BigChongus
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Posts posted by BigChongus
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Alright, got the barrels way too hot touch while at the range today, and the handguards were only slightly warm, which is to be expected I guess...
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Yeah, Im thinking of just getting those. I cant find the Russian ones Zen posted either.
What do you think of the wood handguards? how do they do with the heat?
I've haven't really gotten them hot yet, but I can let you know tomorrow. Nice thing about those was that they were only $25 for the entire set: Stock, upper and lower HGs, and PG.
I just recently swapped out my polymer for wood on my sgl31 and I plan on keeping it this way especially through the summer. When dumping mags in the middle of summer the polymer would get hot and would smell of burning plastic. The wood has faired much better so far. Im sure there is a way to fit your own rails to a wood hand guard too. Apex gun parts has surplus bulgarian wood sets for 25 bucks picked up two sets. There a little dinged up but I plan on eventually trying my hand at refinishing them.
Didn't see this, but that is where I got mine. I refinished them and they turned out great.
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I had a set of these on my rifles before I switched to wood. Can't beat the price:
http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?productid=17088&cat=296&page=1
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I've heard that the 154gr. SPs give the rear trunnnion a pounding.
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Take pics of the 1. the mag catch with the mag locked in place, and 2. the trunnion/bullet guide area from the top with the loaded mag locked in place. I'm going to go out on a (short) limb and blame the promag, though.
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Just get Hungarian 20rd mags from KeepShooting.:
And may be a problem with shipping overseas.
Wasn't posting a link to the vendor, just a picture of the mag.
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What's the point of the 104-style gas/sight block on these if they have a 16" barrel?
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Just get Hungarian 20rd mags from Keep Shooting.
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In case you haven't noticed, the components in these guns tend to be hard. Freaking hard. To think that you're doing "damage" to the piston by cleaning it is slightly more than far-fetched. Like G O B said, ScotchBrite and a solvent. You'll be fine.
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One question - why?
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It's actually meant to wobble a bit. It reduces the chances of the piston binding in the gas tube. The first few threads being visible is normal, too.
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Salts CAN NOT be neutralized. Acids can be neutralized. Bases can be neutralized. Neutralizing an acid or a base produces a salt.
http://www.elmhurst..../183neutral.htm
Corrosive ammo is corrosive because it results in salt residues, NOT acid NOR base residues.
Salts are ionic compounds which can dissolve in water. Hot water would have the best dissolving ability.
Oil will not dissolve salts but will prevent or minimize the reactive nature of the salt which draws moisture from the air which would lead to corrosion.
You can either remove the salt entirely and be done with it, or if you can't do a full cleaning right then and there oil coating will buy you time until.
The main thing to consider is that for corrosion to occur you need water and free oxygen. Salt residue draws water from the air and the salt itself acts
to speed up the corrosion process faster than if it were just water and oxygen.
Thanks you
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Golden Tiger or Uly for me. GT is the best because it's extremely moisture resistant due to laquered cases and sealed primers and case necks.
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I've got Izzy plums, Circle 21s, steel Tantals, the factory mag and a 45rd bakelite...they all just as good as the next.To be honest, though, the Tantals are my least favorite to use. You have to be careful about how you insert them into the mag well in order for them to lock right.
Most I paid for a single mag was $68 for the bakelite.
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Btw, slightly off topic, but for getting carbon out of the gas tube and of the piston face, Comet works amazingly well (This stuff):
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The balance is completely different when you actually convert it, and you're dealing with the crappy factory pseudo-trigger if you don't convert it. Not to mention it looks 100x better converted.
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I'm really liking the yugo surplus. Only negative aspect I've noticed is that the primers seem a little hard. Had a couple rounds that failed to fire. Upon comparison with the Tula, the dent did not appear as deep on the yugo as it did on the tula.
I've had the same experience. Out of about 100 rounds I had about 4 FTFs, which is way to high for comfort for me. I'm sticking with Uly from spam cans or Golden Tiger from now on.
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Lol, I still do that every now and then.
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I just use hot water and dishsoap. That's all you need. 1080+ rounds later and my 5.45 is 100% rust free.
By the way, you can't "neutralize" the salts. That's nothing but an old wives tale, so forget the Windex. You have to physically remove them, i.e wash them out.
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PA, so on the humid side.
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Was surprised to find this inside of a newer box of Uly while at the range. All of my ammo is stored inside (in my bedroom, as a matter of fact) so it wasn't subjected to any excessive moisture or anything. It still fired just fine, but I'd be wary of keeping any polymer coated ammo for longterm storage if it's not sealed or in a spam can.
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You'll have to do a front-end conversion, which would include the standard AK gas tube and a lower hand-gaurd retainer. These work really well. I used them in both of my front end conversion on my rifles:
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That actually makes the Saiga look half-decent in unconverted form.
Will Vepr rifles take standard ak 74 magazines?
in Vepr 5.45
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Uh, installing a G2 is harder than shaving the mag catch. Don't see what the big deal is.