m1lk
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Posts posted by m1lk
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im going to look again at the crown to see if there is any flaking or chipping...
assuming there is, whats a good solution? to just shoot the shit out of it?
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no, it has never keyholed before. ive shot it at 50 yards with very acceptable results, much so that i started shooting 100-150 only with this gun. the day this happened, i just happened to feel like shooting at 50...
here are the pics. both times i was aiming with the irons set to the lowest setting, at the red center mass:
the first picture is the first few shots. notice the keyholing. do not mind the other holes, those are from a shotgun.
this is the 2nd run. 60 shots. a few i intentionally shot into the giant dirt mound so i could see the bullet splash the dirt, because i did not know what was going on at the time, so not all 60 are there. but as you can see, even at 50 yards aiming at center mass it was hitting very low. notice the one keyhole this time, but who knows how many keyholing bullets there were that ended in the dirt mound...
suppose it was this fucking rem-oil. how do i get as much of this shit out of my barrel without firing it? you mentioned repair, how exactly would that go about? and if i have to send this out to have the barrel swapped out, whom do i send it to, and how much would it cost?
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so are we still waiting for more people to pool in? otherwise where do we send the money to?
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i have a zigzag brake installed but its on permanently for state compliance. there are no signs of deflection nor flaking. i always clean with foaming bore cleaner and remoil, just run patches down until it shines. i dont use brushes to scrub the bore. so its wierd
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what should i look for when i check?
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35 each + 10 s&h?
put me in for 2
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never had this problem with my bulgy until today.
before this happened, it had a tapco double hook fcg, with a standard wire guide recoil assembly, and wolff xp recoil spring. no keyholing, though sometimes the carrier did jump the rails every few hundred rounds or so. its done it about 8 times now.
so i added a milled romanian rpk guide rod, an arsenal single hook trigger, arsenal disconnector, and tapco g2 hammer. went and shot it today at the 50 yard line and loaded 30 rounds, first few rounds were ok, then it started to keyhole! i shot another 60 rounds though it, and they were innacurate as well, but the ones that did hit the target were very low (50 yard target aiming at center mass the whole time with sights set to 'battle'), and one keyhole on the target.
i dont know what is going on. could it be the guide rod or the fcg? i doubt its the ammo, ive shot nothing but spamcan milsurp out of this thing.
i am always careful to clean the gun, and have shown no signs of rusting anywhere on it.
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edit: nevermind. fixed it
What was wrong with it?
he couldnt adjust his windage.
ya, what a pain in the ass that was to figure out. but i finally did. put a boresight laser at the end of my ak74 and finally had it right over the ^ notch.
another question though, i dont have an AK74 cam so im using the PK cam. whats a good way of boresighting the 4 setting to 100 yards without taking it to the range, or buying a green laser and going out to an empty field? my living room is about 15 yards long.....
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edit: nevermind. fixed it
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i think the rear sight is the only flaw in the AK platform. if anything, a good optic is essential, irons should be a backup. why strain yourself all the time, when there is the means available to assist. still, do not rely solely on modern technology. ideally, train and get used to irons first, THEN buy a good optic. because when the world stars acting goofy, do you really want to go out of your way and risk your life over a pair of fucking batteries??
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purchased one recently, but there is no ballistic cam for the ak74. anyone know where i can get one? read somewhere there is a way of making one, but i did not find instructions.
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cheapest ive ever seen was from kc913, $45 shiped.
otherwise copes has em for $45 each + 10 unlimited shipping
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whoa, tell me where you have izzy plums for $15, ill buy a couple!!
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sexy, nice job!
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check out http://www.soviet-military.com/, they have those springs in stock for two bux
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speaking of which, any place to get replacement springs, plate, and follower for a bulgy circle 10?
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Most of that rust is burnt metal from the steel cases and the steel bullets. Its like the crap in the bottom of a bench grinder, brush it off and clean well.
Fear not, your rifle is fine!
PS, what kind of range has that much brass just sitting on the ground?? Heck I'd pick that stuff up even just for scrap (3.50 a pound here).
good to know, still wont risk it by holding off on cleaning, but good to know nonetheless...
imagine a giant gravel pit with wooden tables made of old railroad ties, logs for chairs, your target consisting of a piece of cardboard attatched to two rusted metal poles, and it might take 40 minutes for the next cease-fire.......if there is any RO at all...
that is this range. and they pick up select brass and reload them to sell back. all the metal stuff and shotgun shells are just left on the ground
i remember one time i went on a thursday, and there was only 5 people there including myself, no RO, and we called cease fires amongst ourselves. lol
My range has about 1800 members (most of whom only go there once a year to sight in for hunting)
Indoor range is 24-7-365
Outdoor range is dawn to dusk
Never saw an RO in 3yrs
now thats kick ass
being i live in a crap ban state though, this range is a blessing.
most ranges around here wont let you shoot silhouette targets, not even zombie targets, and will bitch at you if you load a 30 round mag with more than 5, RO's who yearn for a big dick and need something to prove.
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Most of that rust is burnt metal from the steel cases and the steel bullets. Its like the crap in the bottom of a bench grinder, brush it off and clean well.
Fear not, your rifle is fine!
PS, what kind of range has that much brass just sitting on the ground?? Heck I'd pick that stuff up even just for scrap (3.50 a pound here).
good to know, still wont risk it by holding off on cleaning, but good to know nonetheless...
imagine a giant gravel pit with wooden tables made of old railroad ties, logs for chairs, your target consisting of a piece of cardboard attatched to two rusted metal poles, and it might take 40 minutes for the next cease-fire.......if there is any RO at all...
that is this range. and they pick up select brass and reload them to sell back. all the metal stuff and shotgun shells are just left on the ground
i remember one time i went on a thursday, and there was only 5 people there including myself, no RO, and we called cease fires amongst ourselves. lol
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Don't worry, I have been stupid and left my gun sitting uncleaned for nearly a month and a half after shooting milsurp 7.62x39 and the barrel was spotless after cleaning.
i am wondering if the climate also plays a factor in the corrosiveness of ammo. being salt pulls in moisture, and more moisture = more salt water = more rust potential
So your saying it is worse if you live near an ocean?
guessing, actually.
like if this ammo was used in the desert, it wouldnt be as prone to rust as using it in a humid jungle...
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Don't worry, I have been stupid and left my gun sitting uncleaned for nearly a month and a half after shooting milsurp 7.62x39 and the barrel was spotless after cleaning.
i am wondering if the climate also plays a factor in the corrosiveness of ammo. being salt pulls in moisture, and more moisture = more salt water = more rust potential
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also..
use a bottle brush (nylon tips).. to clean the gas tube..
AND.. the gas tube attachment on the barrel.. rust and carbon will form inside the PORTS..
use some WD40 to dispurse the water after you rinse then dry wipe a little also.
clean the gas piston (by the BLACK area on the bolt carrier) also..
these are areas I notice the most corrosive work happening on mine..
if you let it go to long.. it will BIND the carrier in the rear sight gas tube area and you'll need a mallet to whack the charging handle to get the bolt back... (ask me how I know)..
don't leave ANY water or oil on the gas piston as they will cause the Carbon Crud to build up.
this was my procedure and it worked well.. other have done similar..
Al
yep, i do the same.
except i scrub the gas tube, gas block, and rear sight block down with a shotgun brush before i use any cleaning solution. then i spray it all down.
instead of wd40, i use an air can and alot of paper towels.
the piston, i scrub off as much black crap on the head as possible, and the entire carrier/piston assembly is sprayed down and cleaned also
the internals, brake, inside of dust cover, spring, all sprayed down and cleaned as if been in contact with the residue.
ive never had issues with rust, though this one time i saw spots of rust starting to form on the outside of the dust cover
got to that quick, and started wiping the outside of the cover as wellill take the leaving oil off the piston into consideration, thats a good point. but i scrub that thing to be as clean as possible after every trip, anyway...
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i dont always come in to work
but when i do, im selling my CNC machine on ebay
Good one....
didnt mean to derail your thread.....
I've been told to put a little windex+water down the barrel after shooting milsurp to help protect for a few hours until you have a chance to clean it properly
no problems at all
i did the same, then gunslick foam cleaner, clp, and little rem oil. its all gone now (see above pic). usually clean right after shooting. those pics were taken a few hours ago...
ive been checking often to see if anything forms after cleaning, nothing ever does. just wondering whats up, since there is a guy that insists this stuff isnt corrosive. but im not about to find this out the hard way.
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i dont always come in to work
but when i do, im selling my CNC machine on ebay
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I am guessing that that rust will come right out, if it even is rust. Did you check it before you shot?
yeah it came right out with some water, and basic cleaning procedure.
checked it the night before, wasnt there. been checking often ever since i made a switch to exclusively milsurp ammo a few months ago. thankfully its never reached the internals or bore.
if it isnt rust what is it then? ive heard everything regarding this corrosive spamcan stuff, from its not corrosive to it being highly corrosive. even have someone else insisting yugo and 5.45 milsurp is not corrosive. would be good if i knew once and for all if its ok to let it sit a week (recent busy schedule, cleaning a pain in the ass & time consuming), without finding out for myself if rust has spread throughout the rifle.
I'm assuming you've had the pleasure of dealing with Lancaster also
I wont make that same mistake twice
sshhh..... those are just internet myths!
keyholing after 2000+ rounds of milsurp. wtf???
in Saiga 5.45
Posted · Edited by m1lk
well, holy shit...
checked the crown again, no flaking. though a bit of cake is starting to build up around it.... crown is still visible.
took a closer look at the muzzle brake, the outside part right after the zigzag ports, and found a nice shiny notch that wasnt there before. i think the bullet was hitting the brake and causing this.
now, question is...why?? it definitely did not do this the last time i shot it. how to fix this?
ill post pics of it tomorrow...my battery is dead