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poolingmyignorance

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Posts posted by poolingmyignorance

  1. Well I got the 556R back from sig yesterday, and got her out to the range today, and WHAT A DIFFRENCE! The report from the gunsmith was vauge to say the least read " Corrected problems, fired 20 rnds preformed normaly". Upon receiving I broke it down, inpsected parts to see what had been done. I could see that the entire lower was diffrent first off. ( Honestly I would have though the issues had more to do with the upper assembly) And some work had been done on the rails, as i could see some of the pin welds were more pronounced than before. The new folding stock has a metal clasp and no longer comes dislodged from the stock when clipping to the hand guard. So far so good. Also all internals were well lubercated, except chamber appeared to be slightly dry. So before heading out to the range I ran some oiled swatched through the barrel loaded up the mags (they threw in an extra mag), and headed to the range.

     

    Range Report:

    Anticipating much failure I bought a box of winchester x39 brass for a final straw. My plan was to fire as much cheap russian steel ammo as she'd take till she fail to fire from either gas setting, then run the brass to confirm it was the gun and not the ammo. After taking my time sighting in my red dot at 50yrds I moved to 100 got her tweaked where I wanted it and started popping off rounds as fast as the range would allow. I was expecting more issues, but no matter how limp wristed I held it I couldn't get it to malfunction. After about 100rnds I rolled some around in the dirt and stuffed them in the mag. She ate them and smiled for more. Unfortunately I under estimated her, and only brought 120 rounds, but I never had to adjust the gas, and COULD NOT replicate any of the previous failures! I feel much better about this rifle! Guess it's time to head out to the woods and see just how many rounds before she starts choking.

    • Like 1
  2. I had the card protection work in reverse on me. Before a trip to Brazil I activated my card for international use at a local branch of my bank. Well after about two weeks of using it somehow corperate got involved and saw the forgein charges and deactivated my card WITHOUT NOTIFYING ME! At a little road side resturant outside of Macae, after dinning big and fat on steak and beer, my card doesn't just get declined, but shows as STOLEN. Well the owner of the resturant wasn't too happy, but luckily I got through on the 800# and got my card reactived and meal paid for (with a fat tip) just as the Militar Police arrived. A quick check of my pass port and visa I was back on the road, but for a minute I was on verge of shitting my pants.

  3. I just bought a new Saiga 410, put the tapco stock on it and got some 15 round mags. I got it all cleaned and lubed up as per IndyArms' advice (thanks). I can't wait to take it out but I was wondering if there is any kind of break in. Should I just shoot buckshot for the fist however many rounds, should I shoot birdshot first, should I shoot 2 1/2" first?? Should it be cleaned after the first however many rounds? Maybe I'm just deep thinking it too much but I'll appreciate any suggestions.

     

    Saiga's love high brass, put a few dozen down range before you try any light loads. I would use the 200-300 round guide line for break in.

  4. I usually don't post in threads regarding another business member.....well, actually I don't post much at all here anymore, but let me tell you guys something about business in general since we're on the topic.

     

    In your mind, you're probably thinking that if you pre-pay up front, that you will get preferential treatment compared to someone that did not pre-pay. That thinking, sadly, is wrong. Taking money up front on a long lead time item is sure death to your business. When you get low on cash, there is really no way to catch up other than to keep digging the hole deeper and taking in more money on things you can sell "today". As a consumer, you need to be very careful when dealing with someone using this business model. There is ABSOLUTELY NO INCENTIVE for the business to work on your stuff when they are low on cash. Working on your stuff just burns resources, burns more cash, and brings in ZERO money. Once a business is in this position, working on your stuff would put the operation under immediately. So....to keep the doors open, the only recourse is to only work on things that return cash in a very short period of time.....and that's NOT your pre-paid gun.

     

    This is not directed at E-tac in any way,(I have no idea what their situation is) but many businesses compound the problem by late-paying their bills to their suppliers. This makes the situation even worse. To get squared up with your short term debt, you need a bunch of cash which you can't get because you took money up front years ago. Eventually, the whole deal implodes when your suppliers quit suppling to you. Remember, no matter how vertically integrated your manufacturing business may be, unless you are are in the iron ore mining business, everything you start with, is a "buy" item.

     

    When you couple late paying bills and taking in revenue early, it is nearly impossible to tell if you really have any money or not. If you don't know....well, you probably don't have any. Pay the bills as soon as they come in. Take customer's money as close as possible to you delivering the product. Keep your inventory low and quote lead times that you can actually hit. That business model will actually work.

     

    Every business has ups and downs with cash flow, so if you have been paying your bills on the day they arrive, and now you find yourself low on cash, you can simply use the standard net 30 payment terms to give yourself a little breathing room as cash spools back up. If you have been paying late, you're just screwed at that point.

     

    Tony Rumore

    Tromix

     

     

    It's nice to see somebody talking sense without emotion. Good advice, sounds like the words of a sucessful businessman. I know most people don't want to simply take customers money and offer nothing in return, but it offend ends up that way. Whats worse is companies that just don't give a shit, once they get your money.

    I've not had any dealings with any of the individuals mentioned in this thread, but reading it has definately ruled out the possiblity of me ever doing it with a few.

  5. I don't know how people just assume shit's going to sort it's self out. Personally, I'm always worried my orders won't get processed because of some clerical error, or missing info. But then again, maybe I'm not cautious, just impatient. When I get a new toy, I want that bastard in my hands ASAP. Like hell I'm gonna just leave my money in sombody else's hands waiting for me to ask for my purchase.

     

     

  6. First off I would like to thank this community for all of its excellent tutorials and information. I recently purchased a saiga 12 and was unaware of the FTE problem until I took mine out for its first test run and discovered it came with no puck! (New)

     

    I am following Eriks post on polishing my internals but ran into a problem removing my foregrip. It has the sling screw wich I removed but the stock will not come off. I placed a towel over a concrete floor and tried to slide it down using inertia but it would not budge and cut the towel. I do not want to risk damage to the barrel so was wondering if there was something I may be missing? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

     

     

    Just the screw, man. All you need to do is use a screwdriver and pry on it a bit( work a little on both sides keep the gap between the forgrip and the receiver even), or you can use a little piece of wood or plastic as a cushion to tap on it with a hammer, so you don't scratch it all up. But first just try wiggling it back and forth, sometimes that works. Also Carolina Shooter Supply sales pucks, ranging from somwhere around 30 to 10 I think for the basic tapco verison. Besides, the puck is one of the easiest things to replace counting toward 922r, making you compatiable to use high capacity US made magazines in the non-coverted configuration.

  7. Looking for a Saiga 12 preferably 22 barrel. Hoping to stay in the $500s.

     

     

    Wish in one hand shit in the other, see which fills up first. Seriously, this should be in the WANT TO BUY( you have to be a contributor to post in that section) because you'll be lucky to find a used one at that price. May I suggest you look for something on gunbroker or read the Want To Sale section, maybe you'll get lucky. Oh and welcome to the forum!

  8. With some recent topics on op rod length I decided to measure a few things regarding the CSS puc. Here is what is confusing the crap out of me. I took out my gas plug and noticed the CSS puc is just short of the gas holes. I then removed it and put my factory plug in and it sat further back. I then took them both out and measured them. The CSS puck is shorter in overall length! How the hell is that possible?

     

     

    Interesting isn't it. I machined one for my s12 and it's actualy .042" longer than the orginal russian puck, bu the groves are the same dimesions apart as well as depth and width. And seems to have no change in performance. ( Only made the puck to replace on russian part) The gun always worked fine.

    My question to you, is does your gun suffer from this diffrence? If not who cares.

  9. I bought my saiga in february. It was a 2002 model with minimal wear, 100-500rds, tops. When I got it I cleaned it with hoppes no9, and it seemed to come clean. I then tried the winchester break free and noticed no matter how many times I brush then swab, I cant get it clean, always a black patch. I have maybe put 600rds thru it and cleaned it after every range trip. I cant count how many times Ive gotten a black patch out since ive shot it last. Maybe Im too anal, but for pete sakes I want to get it clean, even though it doesnt need to be as clean as I want it. It seems like the previous owner shot it and let it sit for years, until running a patch thru it and selling it to me.

    Is there a better solvent, if so what is it? And do any of you have this problem?

     

    If it cycles and it's accurate, when your done cleaning it with the hoppes, then it's clean enough.

    • Like 1
  10. If you use a high temp nickle base, I don't see why not. Just use sparingly. Remeber grease collects grit, you don't want it oozing into your gas chamber cause that'll definately shorten times between cleaning. My philosphy is always: when in doubt lubercate!

  11. the rifle was converted somewhat poorly when i got it, the last inch of the barrel is threaded and looks a little rough, I saw a Krebs custom where the FSB was moved back to the gas block and a muzzle device was permanently attached, I have a machinist friend who will cut it for pennies, im bored with the rifle as is.

    thats pretty much it, I can have a welder friend build a barrel pushing tool but if someone has one it will be easier than bugging my buddy

     

    I say build it, you can NEVER have too many tools!

  12. I was looking for the off-chance someone would be willing to sell an Saiga 12 MD 20rd Drum..or any other Mags..dont have the $ to buy new and was looking to save a few bucks..TY!!

     

     

    You can find them on gunboroker from time to time. But seriously, who wants to sell something soo much fun?

  13. Im with the OP, the full conversion is just scaaareeee.

     

    My biggest concern is drilling away to install the bullet guide. Have there been any bad experiences with this?

     

    Actually drilling the two rear pins gave me more trouble than the bullet guide. Probably because I didn't use a quality drill bit, or I just don't know how to use a drill. Also, it was the first time I used a tap when I installed the bullet guide, and I did it perfectly the first time. It sounds much harder than it really is.

     

    A trick I've used for drilling on round surfaces is to file them flat first, and center punch them. If you don't have a center punch you can use the side of the file to scar a little "X" that will give the bit a place to grab and help keep you on target. ( too little too late, but maybe next time.)

  14. I recently bought the Sig 556Russian, I'm pleased with it, I like the red dot alot. It's really acurate at 100 yrds, Sig has done some great work keeping the climb down and recoil is minimal. However it doesn't like the tula ammo much. The first round failed to eject, infact the spent casing was lodged so tight in the barrel i had to slam the bolt shut and rip it back open by hand to clear it out. After that I could only get it to operate with the valve in the number 2 position, till i fired about 6 more then it ran in no 1 for about 60 rounds till it fouled up enough to need to go back to pos.2. Now that I've ran about 300 through it, it still doesn't like the first few rounds on postion 1, but then it cleans up and repeats the previous cycle. I've not had anymore issue with casing not clearing the barrel. All in all I'm very pleased.

     

     

     

    UPDATE!!

     

    I recently sent this weapon in to be serviced by Sig because of continued FTF,FTE...seems like an excessive head space issue. I should be reciveing it back some time this week. But since having originally posted this, I've read alot of people claiming the same issue, also that Sig said they "void the warranty if steel cased ammo was used" THATS NOT TRUE! Sig asked me to try several types of ammo before sending it in to service but never said ANYTHING about not using steel they did ask if i could find some brass and try it too. So far they've been more than willing to work with me, having responeded to my emails and calls promptly, but I'll not say for certain, how I feel about their service till i get my weapon back and get some serious rounds through it. Just wanted to be fair in all things said.

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