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FunkedOut

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Posts posted by FunkedOut

  1. actually, the S12 uses a 1.5mm receiver; mine does anyway.

    what i've always found interesting, though, is that they maintained the 32mm width inside dimension; same as a 1mm receiver.

    if the VEPR12 maintains the RPK width inside dimension of 31.5mm, then the posts above would still apply; thanks for those.

    i have not held a VEPR12 and cannot comment on its width I.D.  i may have to post in the VEPR section to get an answer on that one.

     

    now returning this thread to the original question, anyone able to compare rivet hole locations for the S12 fixed stock and the stock linked to above?

  2. Anyone here had their hands on the VEPR12 folding stock trunnion?

    Rusmilitary has them in stock with what looks like a virgin trunnion in their picture.

    Looks like I'll need to drill and countersink the short rivet holes on the trunnion itself.

     

    Main question is, do the the rivet holes on this trunnion line up with the rivet holes on an S12 fixed stock receiver?

    (I know the bottom 2 holes are nonexistent on the receiver and need to be drilled; I'm asking about the other 4 holes)

     

    Thanks in advance.

    post-36393-0-31030200-1403010019_thumb.jpg

  3. You haven't seen TAC47's custom trigger Keith Nells is doing. TAC's custom trigger put the rest of the AK triggers back in the stone age.

    I suspect our own EVIL resident is doing something similar as TAC with his trigger.

     

    gotta link?

    • Like 1
  4. Cool. Here's a pic I took last Sunday. My wife and I were out for a ride. It was in Bridport, VT near the east side of the new Champlain Bridge, across Lake Champlain from Crown Point, NY. I'm not sure what kind of bird it is but the nest is about 4' in diameter, and some of the sticks it is made of are about the size of my wrist.

     

    looks like an osprey to me, but i'm far from a bird expert.

  5. use a 3mm drill bit that is sharp. the only cutting edge on a drill bit is at the end. a center-cutting end mill will cut in all directions. the existing hole in the blocks will act as a collar to help guide the bit from wandering. a drill press, mill or other way to help align everything and keep items from shifting are worth it.

     

    also, take the time to line everything up right. don't assume the the existing hole is square to the block itself. each hole might have been drilled off a bit.

     

    don't forget, cutting oil with high sulfur content and ~1200rpm for that should be good.

    • Like 1
  6. Would it be a desecration to buy one of these and put an ak 100 version side folder on it?

    Want an SLR 107ur but dont want to pay late comer price.I've seen only one for $2000.

     

    (not mine)

    M92-2.jpg

     

    they're out there:

    http://forum.saiga-1..._30#entry666342

    https://www.google.c...w=1611&bih=1206

     

    if you go this route, i'd suggest a 5.5mm pivot pin stock. that way, the 4 degrees angle that's cut on the receiver is a head start for the right side and a reference for the left and slot. wink.png

    • Like 1
  7. mine is cycling bulk pack flawlessly with four 1.75mm (0.069") ports

     

    lots of variables (friction, puck/chamber fit, spring rates, etc.) will determine the minimum size needed to cycle. any blanket number given to work on any and every gun is for shops/individuals that do not want, or cannot afford to take the time to determine the minimum size required. if you want to only remove the gas block once, drill it, put it back together and be done with it, the recipes will work. a little extra gas can be blocked or bled by the use of aftermarket gas plugs.

     

    what's the advantage to finding the minimum size? less stuff can find its way into your gas chamber. should stay cleaner. and less gas directed away from shot acceleration and/or brake function.

     

    all of the above is simply my opinion.

    your mileage may vary.

    • Like 1
  8. Yes. The original barrels are less than 16" but you can make a 16" barrel work or perm attach an extension/brake/fake can.

     

    There's a lot more to a blank than the number of holes. It's not cheaper if you have to buy all the bits, reamers, spot welder, tongs, plus however you choose to go about heat treating.

     

    If you're only gonna build one, nodak is the way, hands down. Betcha can't build just one...

  9. The polish kits are cheap by today's standards when you compare the other parts kits and their prices. Polish AKs are sweet. Great machining and assembly. The parts kit should have all the holes drilled in the right place. You'll end up with a top quality piece if you do your part.

    I'll add this, get a polish 80% blank and build it on that if you can. You'll need to know how to drill holes, spot weld rails/plate and heat treat. If you can't, look into it real hard.

  10. Nice! I grabbed a gamo varmint hunter. Basically a shadow 1000 with scope, flashlight and laser, both with momentary switches to defend my fruit from 'coons and possums at night.

     

    Well, the .177cal with that power plant isn't enough to do anything but injur something bigger than a squirrel/rat,

    the flashlight would barely illuminate 2'-3' in front,

    and the scope and laser would shift POA every shot.

     

    I think you went the smart route.

  11. hispanic or latino = descendant of hispania (mainly spain or portugal or countries that were once their colonies/territories)

     

    race = breed. not sure why there are groups for "american indian or alaskan native" and "native hawaiian or other pacific islander" and not groups for say, "native australian" or "native caribbean islander" or "arab"

     

    there are plenty of whites, blacks, asian and [south] american "indian" people that are also hispanic.

     

    now, why?

    why is there a separate field for hispanic/latino? .gov is keeping track of this.

    why are they keeping track? i'd assume because of the large hispanic immigration.

     

    my question is why are they keeping track at all?

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