FunkedOut
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Posts posted by FunkedOut
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i have never had any trigger slap on the arsenal fcg's and i don't use those rivets. are you experiencing trigger slap or is this just preventative?
for what it's worth, I believe only 74's had this rivet and not AKMs. none of the AKM's i've demilled have had them. my S12 had it.
at any rate, I would just find a block of steel that fits into your receiver and is tall enough to stick out the top while in contact with the rivet head. flip the assembly over (trigger guard up) and hit the rivet with a hammer or use the press. if you want a round rivet head, use a ball nose end mill and cup the tip of a punch. then use that to place between your rivet and hammer/press. just make sure to keep downward pressure on the receiver so you don't get a gap between the original rivet head and the receiver.
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not sure if you're interested, but Romanian wire side folders, East German wire side folders, and Polish Beryl stocks all fold and fit in a standard rear trunnion.
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Most compact cleaning kit is your pecker. Piss down the gas tube and barrel and rinse in water. Neutralizes corrosive residue and if done hot will break off carbon deposits and possibly scald your leg with hot piss.
maybe your pecker...
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...Has anyone ever tryed drilling an extra port from the front of the gas block at a angle. Meaning not pulling it. If so does it work?
don't do it. the guy in this video did it along with several other things i'd recommend against:
http://forum.saiga-1...ts/#entry745361
the angle toward the rear is to minimize the amount of stuff that finds it's way into the gas block when you pull the trigger.
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if your gun runs without the autoplug, then installing the autoplug should not break it.
i'd be willing to be that if swapped out the Vplug with the factory plug, your gun will still cycle fine.
i got my gun running with all the factory components (springs, plug, fcg, etc.) then dropped the autoplug in and it runs great.
a weaker recoil spring means less force for stripping and loading the shell as well as locking the bolt.
that said, if you buy the autoplug and your gun won't run what you want, you can address the gas ports at that time. nothing lost, really.
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those are pelicans. fly pelican! fly pelican!
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I just got the new Nikon J1. I don't know the frames per second but it takes 5 seconds of video and converts it to the high speed/slow-mo clip you see. It takes 5 sec. and turns it into like a minute I think.
400 frames. looks pretty good at that frame rate. It didn't look like the brightest day either, judging by the real time segments. Did you shoot those withe the J1 as well?
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$120 for the amount of work that should go into a refinish is real cheap.
The airbrush is cheap ($15 @ harbor freight) and even the most expensive finishes can be had for the price of a 12 pack or two (amount you'll need for 1 gun). Air compressors can get pricey quick. Specially if you plan on getting into blasting.
The real work comes in the prep. If a tiny drop of oil is present when you coat it, it'll look like it's there forever. Same goes for existing paint. May or may not matter to you.
Problem is, I don't trust anyone else to do the work like I would for $120. I certainly wouldn't finish someone else's gun for $120.
I'll agree with Hammer on this one, skip the can. Hopefully you won't be paying $120 for a rattle can job you could've done yourself. Ask to see a work sample? Good news is, you can always refinish a bad finish.
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"...Saiga claims this shotgun is also modified for enhanced reliability, with early prototypes running 1,500 rounds without stoppages...."
1500 rounds?!?!? that's it? I'm only at 500 since my last cleaning, but I was hoping this weapon system could go for thousands upon thousands. I guess I'll see how far mine will go...
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Aimpoint T1 micro is the plan. The sights I made will co-witness perfectly when it gets added. Just got to set aside some funds...
eta: I just realized you said gas block. That is for a VFG to make the drums more comfortable. Drums come out, so does the grip.
I managed to test out the sights and found that I am:
~1" low at 7 yards
~6" high at 25 yards
~perfect at 50 yards
I cannot seem to find any trajectory tables or calculators to line up with that.
Sights are really close to 2" over bore.
Plans are to make some shims for the front sight and head back out to get it right.
I'm not interested in slugs or any distance beyond 50 yards.
I plan to sight in for a "point and shoot" for 0-50yards compromise and learn holds for slugs.
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Nice work on your rails. It sucks the one wasn't tight enough. It's not like we didn't beat that horse to death. The interference fit is where all the strength comes from so it's got to be spot on. Good recovery though. And brilliant idea on straight knurling the insert. Takes the last few thou out of the equation.
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Look at 4 again. Picture was taken from muzzle to breach. See that pin at the left of the picture? It's on the right side of the gun when looking from breach to muzzle.
Look at 5 again. Muzzle is off to the left on that picture. Thats the same pin from 4 inside the trunnion slot.
eta: just checked my underfolder and receiver is not cut. The pin lives in the trunion only.
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http://home.earthlink.net/~mwsjb/AKbuild3.htm
look at #5. there are pin that keep the internal mech from rotating freely.
This is the truth.
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3 dram equivalent (DE) loads will have more pressure than 2-3/4 DE loads.
more pressure means more shot velocity and more force on the action, unless you tune your gas system with your MD Arms plug.
see how low a setting on the plug you can run the 2-3/4 DE loads.
see how low a setting on the plug you can run the 3 DE loads.
report back, please. i'm curious, thank you.
by the way, i've seen the blue boxes in both 2-3/4 DE and 3 DE.
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Good shit.
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sounds to me like you may be describing a trigger reset issue, where the disconnector doesn't let go of the hammer when you let go of the trigger.
my Arsenal did just that in my S12 (it was an S12 Arsenal) but not in any of my AKM. might have something to do with the slightly different geometry on the S12 vs standard AKMs? not sure if this geometry is specific to the S12 or is common to all Saigas.
you can help the situation by bending the hammer spring Iegs to apply more force or apply the force further towards the rear of the trigger/sear legs. this helped some for me but will also increase the trigger pull weight slightly.
the real fix is to change the geometry of the FCG to match the pin geometry in the receiver. that's a fancy way to say stone your disconnector a little.
while I was at it, I did the same for the sear as well and the hammer on both contact points (sear and disconnector).
then finished the job by stoning the top of the sear and the bottom of the hammer where they contact (think hammer down, finger off the trigger, and rack it)
then I went buck nutty and stoned the face of the hammer where it comes in contact with the carrier.
I'd imagine this would apply to any AKM FCG as well but have no experience.
hope this helps.
eta: stoning the FCG can affect safe and proper function of the weapon. if you decide to go this route, please do so at your own risk as I'm not responsible. have fun!
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he said it was black hk something or other epoxy, lol, much nicer than the krylon on the gun, lol
Sounds like semi-gloss black norrell moly resin.
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That image is off the home page.
Thank You. I made it after that image,
Nailed it. With the gun and the image.
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That image is off the home page.
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affirmative
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that is really sweet. if only i had the balls to do that to my 700 and scope...
the carrier in black is a nice touch.
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how'd it go? it's working well I bet.
how long is the barrel?
what did you do to the gas system? shorten it? gas port count/size?
any other tricks?
how 'bout pics?
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...I bet you bent your receiver while putting it in your vise to mill/drill it... That could have explained the bolt carrier being so far off like that. But it may have just been that way??
I had this present in my mind all the way through. I made sure I was squeezing rivet heads and not sheet metal and I never squeezed the life out of anything. Over tightening a vice is a problem that affects the setup, even if you don't deform what you are holding on to.
Hard to say exactly what happened between brand new and after conversion. I've been thinking that as it broke in, all the misalignment caused wear in such a way that made the carrier to gas tube interference worse? I did manage to get almost all of the performance back without touching the gas. The only shells that would not cycle before gas treatment were the Winchester lo brass. Increased all four holes by 0.05mm diameter and all is good again.
Keeping the gas ports as small as possible is important to me. The less gas is wasted (directly via the autoplug, or indirectly via friction) the more efficient the weapon will be. I'm saving all that gas for shot acceleration and possible brakes down the road.
Glad those worked out for you GunFun. I put my GB rail on explicitly for a vertical fore grip so I can shoot the MD20 drums comfortably. I can do without, but the short RPK handguard makes things uncomfortable. That's why the solid attachment was relevant. A laser sounds good. I might give it a shot. Don't have any green though.
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Arsenal raised rivet installation?
in Tech Section
Posted
not using arsenal builds. simply bought the arsenal fcg's and dropped them in non-arsenal rifles. i've read that flyer and know what you're typing about.
what you described above is not "trigger slap" even though it is a slap on the trigger.
what you described above is feeling when the hammer leaves the disconnector and travels about 1/4" or so and comes to rest on the sear. that impact of the hammer on the sear is what you're feeling. these big head rivets won't take that away. nothing will. you can lessen it by using a trigger with a sear that is lower and closer to the height at which the disconnector lets go of the hammer. it's not a deal though.
"trigger slap" is when you pull the trigger and keep it back, the round is fired cycling the action, the carrier travels rearward, cocking the hammer which causes the disconnector to rotate out of its way so much that its tail hits the trigger, causing the trigger to slap your finger. if you have no tail (a la G2, Romy G, Texas Triggers, etc.), you won't get any slap. or if you have a tail, the rivet will eliminate/prevent slap.
wether or not a rifle will "slap" depends on the position of the lower rails, hammer/trigger pin holes, and size/shape of the carrier, hammer and disconnector.