Eganx
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Posts posted by Eganx
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Like this:
https://picasaweb.go...COvtyZ6lwIWkvgE
Or if you don't like the screw , tack in a finishing nail and leave the head sticking up a bit.
Yours is very similar to mine....but I used aluminum. Wood would have been easier.
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I bought my S12 last year, a 2011 gun, 19" barrel with two ports. If I remember correctly the ports measured .076 or thereabouts. Before I even shot the gun I presses the gas block off and added a third port @ .082 dia. Took it out and shot it, it would cycle everything from the shoulder but had failures firing from the hip or if held loosely. I polished the bolt carrier, bolt and profiled the hammer. Shoots everything all the time now. The gas system is still seeing less gas than most and the gun works flawlessly, I believe most folks go with three ports at 3/32 though.
If you are having FTE problems you need more gas or you need to free up some friction..........
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I welded a little tit to the front and back of the trigger to limit creep and over travel, worked pretty well. I played with the disconnecter and hammer engagement for a shorter reset, as well as the trigger/hammer engagement to make the brake/reset close together. Then replaced the rolled steel sleeve with a machined brass bushing, which didn't really do much.
Its an AK, use a little common sense and ingenuity and you'll be good.
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I believe the trigger guards are actually hardened. When I was setting mine up to be riveted I noticed it was slightly crooked, the brakes in the steel weren't perfectly parallel. I gave it a good twist to see how hard it was, and it sprung right back to the original position. I figured it was only slightly off, and I was the only one that would notice it. I'm a machinist by trade so I like things perfect and I actually haven't noticed the imperfection or thought about it since the riveting.
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So they switch from fraction measurements to numerical values? I guess I was unclear in my request, I was wanting to know the fractional sizes of said drill bits. 128ths, 256ths???
not fractional at those sizes.....numbered. There are fractional, numbered, and lettered drills. Numbered are 1-80 which is .228-.0135, they decrease in diameter from .004 to .001 per number depending on the drills. Look up a drill index and it will tell you the diameter for the numbered drills, lettered drills etc.
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a bushmaster? after painting the inside of your receiver i would expect it to run about as reliably as one
We are talking about an AK variant. An AK variant is the most reliable firearm in the world. The receiver can be half full of sand and still fire(don't know about an S12, but damn sure a 7.62 can). If I Cerakote the inside of the receiver, I tighten tolerances but .0005" a side.....for the mathematically challenged that is 5 ten thousandths of an inch. Are you aware of what a normal oil clearance (max/min/nominal) tolerance is on a typical bearing/journal in an engine? I guaran-damn-tee you if the max to min window of oil clearance is over .0005 in an engine .0005 won't make two shits of a difference in an AK.
If a firearm has a paint on finish(may do these days) on the internals, you remove said finish with an abrasive blasting of your choice, and you replace the finish with one that is equal to or less than the thickness of the original finish, and provides more lubricity when dry than the original finish, reliability would be equal to or better than before the refinish.
Maybe I am being misunderstood, I am not talking about using duracoat on the inside of a gun. Duracoat is too thick for an interior finish, I am specifically referring to Cerakote or Gunkote.
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We need a dislike button...
We need an education on finishing a firearm with a decent firearm finish and not thick paint such as duracoat
So why would the factory finish the inside of a firearm if it hindered performance????
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I have "painted" the inside of quite a few guns.......not with durakote though. If you have a spray on finish that cures to .5mils(or.0005") in thickness there should be no problem painting the inside of most firearms especially an AK variant.
If you sand blast the gun to refinish why would you not do the inside????? Does the inside not need protection from the elements as well? A few finishes today offer increased dry lubricity......an added bonus to finishing the inside of your firearm.
The paint used on Saigas is garbage. It is not solvent safe, and is applied in a fashion I would expect for a $500 gun from Russia. Now after the converting my S12, with added parts and labor it could be a $900 gun from America. I would prefer for it to look the part inside and out........enter Cerakote
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So I was reassembling the S12 last night after polishing the hammer and sear. I was at work.......which is a decent sized machine shop. I had the BHO spring held with some needle nose pliers, I thought I had the axis pin through the loop in the spring so I let go with the pliers and the spring shot past my head and behind one of two CNC lathes. I looked for about an hour with no luck......of course all the metal chips around the shop didn't help. Man was I frustrated. I was afraid I wouldn't have one for the weekend when I 'll be shooting. I ordered two more last night......with the intention of loosing at least one more in the near future. Luckily CSS rocks and the should be here thursday.
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I measured mine with gauge pins and both were .076. Mine was a two port gun though. Also, when measuring make sure there aren't any burrs obstructing the holes
So I added another hole @ .082. The gun is was still slightly under gassed, not cycling low brass if the gun wasn't held firmly. So from there I polished the friction points and reprofiled the hammer which solved the cycling problem.
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Nice......I got my 2011 a few weeks back. Only had two gas ports that were .076 in diameter.....so before I even shot it I converted it and added a third port at .082. took it out and it would cycle the cheap is you held it tightly into your shoulder, but if it was held loosely it would FTF. I fixed it with some polishing and reshaping the hammer a bit.
Could you shoot from the hip or shoot with a loose grip and still have the gun function?
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no no no no no! all we need are those double stacks.
They got them shits at Wendys yo
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you smoke your saiga 12? you, me and the guy who tokes out of his rifle have to have a get together
Oh. So he's talking about something like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_5RJNo_oF8&feature=youtube_gdata_player
HA.....thats the clip I though about when I read the OP
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So I ordered my conversion parts a few weeks back......arrived pretty quickly. Saturday around 1AM I ordered a MD drum, russian style flash hider and a gas plug. Saturday afternoon it was shipped!!!! It is due to arrive tomorrow, just in time to go shooting tuesday. I'm pretty sure thats the fastest I have ever received anything ordered after a thursday. Good job guys.....keep it up!!!
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I'm really not interested in screw-in guards......hell I can crush a rivet faster than I can apply a thread locking compound and turn the screw in. I am not interested in a trigger guard that has the rivet/bolt holes all in one line.....I like the idea of triangulation for stability. So from what I can tell the MD arms and AK-builder trigger guards are my only options as far as having two rivets securing the front of the guard.
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So how is the front of the guard secured....one or two rivets/bolts?
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So I have ordered my Saiga-12 and am going to piece together my conversion kit.......I am hung up on trigger guards. I like the idea of the rivet on guard with pistol grip support plate that AK-builder sells, I have all the riveting tools I would need, a tig machine and work in a machine shop so it wouldn't be a problem. However, I work nights, have a 4 month old boy I watch during the day before I go to work, and see my wife very little as we don't have the same days off work. So any free time is very valuable to me. I see a few of these different DIY trigger guards that are bolt on/rivet on with no spot welding and have a PG nut built into the guard. These would save me time.....but are they sturdy? Does the pistol grip flex from side to side at all? I would be leaning towards the MD arms type trigger guards with two rivets in the front to triangulate the guard mounting points.....any experience with these and their durability?
Thanks - Egan
Effective Muzzle Brakes?
in Saiga-12
Posted
I need a new brake on my S12. The recoil is just too much with a AK74 buttstock. I plan on adding a different buttstock with a recoil pas as well....but for now I want to focus on brakes. I am looking at CNCwarriors Firestorm brake. Does anyone have any experience with it? I would like and effective brake, but I'm not trying to ad a 6" 3 lb competition brake to this thing. What are yall using and how effective do you think it is? Thanks for the input - Egan