wagdog
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Posts posted by wagdog
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Also, why did I buy a SKS three years ago when these guns are available at these prices?
Nothing wrong with an SKS either. Atlantic Firearms just had some for 299.99 and I waited too long. I remember when I was in high school you could get an SKS for about 80 bucks. I thought they must have been junk for that price. Sure wish I would have bought one then...
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If you are shooting ammo with red sealer, that is what you are seeing. The gas system does NOT need to be shiny! Leave the piston black, you will do more damage getting it shiny, just clean off the crud.
Man! That must be it. Yeah this is the ammo with the red sealer. Thanks for the tip on leaving the piston black.
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I've got a YARQ. I put a few rounds though my 5.45 this past Saturday afternoon. I didn't get to clean it until maybe two or three hours after shooting. I didn't think it would be a big deal since I live in the desert. However, when I removed the gas tube, I noticed a fine red powder sitting on top of the paint. I had to laugh a little because I had recently had a conversation with a buddy about corrosive primers. I told him I wasn't too worried because of where I lived, low humidity, etc, etc. Well the stuff dang near just fell out of the tube but I went a head and rinsed it with some water and dried it. Then cleaned/lubed as usual. The inside of the gas tube still looked black (with paint, not with carbon) and no pitting or anything. Was that just a lot of surface rust on top of the paint (seems strange to me) or something else?
There wasn't any other signs of rust anywhere else. I shined my flashlight on all surfaces and down the barrel. Looked shiny and new. I probably didn't clean it good enough two weeks ago when I put several hundred rounds through it. It took me FOREVER to change the gas piston's color from flat black back to shiny metal (even after it soaked in solvent)
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Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice. Thanks for sharing the pics.
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Cool! Thanks yall. I need to order a brake and I'll hook all this up per the instructions posted. I just knew I had lost something...I guess it was only my mind.
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After shooting a few hundred rounds and cleaning up my 5.45, I noticed a pin sticking out on the front sight block. Instead of pushing it back into place, I pulled it out. The retaining pin and spring came out as a result. I grabbed these as they rolled around on my floor:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15984945/IMG_20120130_213135.jpg
I have a feeling I am missing something. I went to put it all back in but I realized that the thread protector is still in place and I can't seem to get the pin and spring back in with the protector in place. Now it looks like this:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15984945/IMG_20120130_213225.jpg
What parts am I missing and where can I get some replacements? I'm planning on removing the thread protector and installing a brake. The one pin that is painted black was fairly loose. Could I use some loctite on that one when I put it back in?
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I use the bore snake for 22 caliber and it works fine. I think it says it is for 22, 223, and 5.56 on the packaging.
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That makes sense. I kept the parts just in case and now I am glad I did. So you don't weld or locktite the brake on?
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I got mine from atlantic as well but mine has 4 small tack welds holding the protector on. Question for.those reading this thread. Is that little retaining pin necessary after you remove the thread protector and install a brake? I removed that pin and spring and then realized I couldnt.get it back on because my thread protector is still on.
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Put a couple hundred rounds of milsurp ammo through my saiga yesterday. It functioned great. I can't get over the lack of recoil! It took me forever to clean all the carbon buildup afterwards though. Also, the gas piston had quite a bit of wobble. Is that normal? I could see the threads on it too. Not all of them. Just the first one. Kinda freaked me out but I am a newbie to the AK platform
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I'm a believer in Hydrashoks in 9mm, .40, and .45. Masaad Ayoob did a comparison with .45s in a slaughterhouse on live cattle and the Hydrashoks performed better and retained the most mass. You don't want the round to fragment but to retain its mass for the most energy transfer.
I use Hydrashoks for 9mm, .40, and .45 as well. A buddy of mine did a simple experiment with wet phonebooks and used Speer Gold Dot, Federal Hydrashok, and Golden Sabre. Seems like he had another brand or two but I can't recall them now. All worked fine but he found the same to be true of the Hydrashoks: they didn't fragment much if at all.
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Mine has 4 small welds holding it on. I'm worried about damaging the threads. Should I try to grind the welds down flatter or just cut through them?
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Thanks for the info yall and especially for the reminder about 922r. This is a great forum.
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Nice. Can't wait to see it!
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Did you get the thread protector off?
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Will an unconverted saiga 5.45 accept a military surplus AK74 magazine?
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Got mine today!! yes it has the scratched out import mark. Magazine dimples. Build date 10/2011. The thread cover on the front is barely held on by creasing the back in a couple spots,spins around over the threads. Nice rifle! Ordered my conversion parts today also. I loaded up a mag and no problems cycling by hand without the bullet guide.
Finally picked mine up today. Mine has the same build date. Let me know when you figure out how to get the thread protector off!
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Man that red looks nice!
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Mine is just a nickname I have had for as long as I can remember...
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I'll take that as a no. :-)
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Gah! That's a great price. If I had waited a month longer, I wouldn't be ordering thread tools....
Well, there's still hope, I suppose. The lady's fond of shooting the 5.45, so maybe I can get budget approval for another one....
I know what you mean about getting budget approval. Mine should be showing up at one of my local FFLs Friday. Can't wait to run some rounds through it!
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I am happy to tell you that east german bakelite mags, bulgarian circle 10 rpk mags and I'm sure just about every other ak-74 style mag does. They all feed the beast just fine with no bullets guide in mine EXCEPT for the last round as many others will tell you just doesn't have enough spring force on it due to the lack of another round trying to push its way to the very top of the magazine.(Because the follower only goes up so far in the magazine)
But the mag catch on my IZ240 is so tight that it is a pain to remove the magazines so I wold still recommend taking a little material off(or replacing the mag catch with an AK's). I just figured all this out yesterday as I am new to saigas period.
Hope this helped
-Jon
Also it comes with the cleaning supplies! One of the great things about Saigas/AK's.
This might belong in a separate thread but do yall have any favorite online dealers for surplus mags?
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Cool thanks for the info. I've never used Gunzilla but it looks like a decent product and I want to give it a whirl now (especially since it mentions cleaning corrosive stuff). You are right about living in the desert. I brought out an old ruger .25-06 when I moved from East Texas to Utah and it had some bad surface rust on the underside of the barrel. I didn't have time to take care of it properly (and I was being lazy) so I cleaned it as best I could and put some CLP on it. About a year or more later, I remembered about the dang rust problem and got it out of storage. I knew it would be a pile of red dirt by then but nothing (visible to my eye) had changed. I know some hate the low to no humidity but it doesn't bother me!
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You will be fine.
I do a couple hot waters with some sprayed soapy water in between. Clean like normal (I use Gunzilla).
I've only pushed around 1K through my 5.45 with the Ultimak on it. Took it off recently and everything was nice and clean. I'm in a high desert too and really don't think there would be a serious issues if the rifle wasn't cleaned it right away.
What do you use to dry out the water? Dry patches? I'm trying to develop a regimen that I can get into the habit of following after shooting any corrosive ammo with my mosins and (soon to get here I hope!) saiga 5.45.
yet another rust question (YARQ)
in Saiga 5.45
Posted
You just get the loose unburnt powder/carbon deposits and call it good? I wasn't taking a brush to the piston or anything. I just got the piston and piston arm doused with solvent and let it sit, then I wiped it. The top of the piston was still dark but the arm was shiny since the powder came off easier.