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aubie515

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Posts posted by aubie515

  1. Well, seeing how I work for Streamlight, I am going to have to say buy a SUREFIRE. Haha...SureFire makes some terrific lights...that is for sure.

     

    Since I do work for SL, I'd say take a look at the TL2/3 LED if you prefer. We will be offering the "SuperTac" at SHOT. It's ugly as sin, but will be damn bright. I will retro fit my TL3 LED to get more lumens.

     

    Our TLR series are tested to withstand 12ga recoil, so that may be an option for you.

     

    Both TLRs and TL series offer remote switches if you desire that feature.

     

    As far as where to mount the light. I will be mounting my lights/lasers on the side, once I get Tony to SBS my S12.

  2. It seems that the BATF are becoming slow again with the paperwork. My friend sent his paperwork in and check was cashed right away like your scenario. He called BATF to find out the status of his paperwork every other week. I believe it took him 6+ weeks to get the approval. BATF told him it was their "busy" season.

  3. You can always try to just coat on your current S12. I'm not sure what Russians use to finish the S12. KG and Norrell's needs something to "bite" into when it's applied. Most will apply over parkerized, anodized or tenifer/melonite (glock/XD factory finish). You will know when the KG or Norrell's is cured because it will resist solvents. The finish will also protect against rust.

     

    I don't have pictures of the airbrush kit, but go to any Walmart on the toy section where the models are...the brand is a Testors. You will need to buy a can of air for the kit...one air bottle comes with the kit and will be plenty for a rifle. I always like to have extra air just in case I run out in the middle of a refinishing project.

     

    Just remember when you apply KG that you don't need a thick coat...KG and Norrells both spray on in light coats....You can refinish the external and internal parts.

  4. The 2400 series is what KG recommends to use on firearms. I talked to them prior to purchasing the products. KG and Norrell's are very similar...some have even said it's one in the same product. I feel that KG doesn't have a strong odor compared to Norrells.

     

    You want to sandblast the parts..if it's blued or rusted...if it is parkerized or anodized...you can just degrease the parts and coat the parts. To apply, you want to go buy an airbrush kit...I bought an inexpensive one at Walmart for around $20..I believe they went up in price by a few bucks. You preheat your oven to 300 degrees for metal parts...I'd say 250 degrees for plastic parts. Bake metal parts for 1 hour...plastic parts 1.5 hours on 250.

  5. I have been considering the purchase of our TLR2 for my pistols/ARs/S12, but I think I will hold off for now. I find the TLR2s to be a bit expensive...and this is after my discount.

     

    If you want it for a HD weapon...why not mount an Eotech, Aimpoint or Trijicon Tripower?

     

    BTW, I work for Streamlight and I will be mounting the TL3 on my ARs and my S12. I also plan on having a Tromix SBS this year.

     

    ETA: You can get the remote grip switch for the TLRs.

  6. Prepping is the most important step in refinishing. Don't do a half A$$ job or use cheap products if you want something to last. If your weapon is parkerized or has a melonite finish...you can just degrease the parts and spray them with Norrell's or KG. You don't want to bake springs or plastic at 300 degrees.

     

    If your weapon is blued or has another sub par finish...I would recommend sand blasting the old finish off. Don't confuse sand blasting with bead blasting. You want to sand blast the parts.

     

    When I refinish, I will disassemble everything to clean and to refinish. When refinishing plastic...I'd bake at 250 for 1.5 hours or so.

     

    I actually favor KG over Norrell's based on odor alone. The Norrell's has a stronger odor compared to KG. KG also offers more color choices compared to Norrells.

  7. Try KG Gunkote or Norrell's Moly Resin...both are more durable compared to Duracoat. Duracoat has the advantage of more color options and camo patterns. And for some folks...the thought of air cured is a plus for Duracoat as well.

     

    I personally would go with a thermal cured finish (KG or Norrell's), but it's your money. With KG and Norrell's you bake the parts in the oven at 300 for an hour. With Duracoat...it may take as long as 3-4 weeks to air cure.

     

    Norrells

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    KG

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  8. :ded:

    I have a converted Saiga that I did myself. I want to register it as a SBS. I know Tromix does the work but I don't want to wait until 2009. Anyone else in the game for this mod? I am guessing it would involve shortening the gas system and enlarging the ports.

     

    I wonder how much it would cost. I can do everything else like cut and thread the barrel

     

    Why not pony up and pay a professional to do the work? You will give the Government $200 for the tax stamp, so why not pay to have it done correctly?

     

    If it was my money, I would just pay someone to SBS the S12. If you do it yourself, you will need to complete a Form 1. Also, worthy to note that if you do the Form 1, you must stamp your name and city on the firearm receiver...some goofy ATF rule.

     

    If you have Tromix or Joe Freeman do it, you will complete the Form 4 once the work is completed. I believe that Wil aka Red Jacket can do this for you as well.

     

    I am on the Tromix list and will probably go with the Micro 12 with an 8" or 10" barrel.

  9. Having a CCW means nothing when it comes to C3.

     

    As far as finding out if your CLEO will sign off...easiest way is to contact your Sheriff and ask him/her if they will sign off on your form 4. Each state is different, so check with your County Sheriff's Office. You might want to ask about your particular state at subguns.

  10. I'm not trying to take sides here, but I think you guys should reply to the OP in PM. Trashing a guys thread isn't exactly cool in my book. He is offering a service and if you think it's too much, you should be discussing this with him. While I agree that $50 per mag is very expensive to pay on top of the $59 for the mag...it's not my place to trash him in public.

     

    You would think that AGP would have done the R&D to ensure that their mags would be 100% prior to releasing the mags. The OP discovered a way to fix the issue and he wants to be compensated for his time. If AGP is offering updated mags...they should be offering a trade in for those who own mags that are not functioning correctly.

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