Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by cad_man

  1. I have moved to a Vepr 12 and absolutely love it.


    It ran out of the box, is reliable and seems much more robust.


    Parts seem available, but not plentiful...we will see what the future holds.


    Maybe an Origin 12 in the future.

    I did the same and I love it too. Unfortunately my MKA now just sits in my closet gathering dust.

  2. How hard was it to remove the guide rods from your 1919s?


    I've tried putting it in a vise and twist on the receiver by hand with no luck, tried using a pipe wrench and hitting with a hammer, heating the rod up.. I've completely destroyed the factory guide rod so I'm kinda committed now..


    i have a replacement rod/ firebird handguard so I know I'm which way is the correct way to turn for removal.

    Pre XN guide rods are standard right hand threads. I believe XN guide rods are left hand threads, but not sure if it is the receiver end or muzzle end.

  3. This isn't the first attempt at an AR10 shotgun. The RAS-12 could have been a winner, but proprietary ammo is pretty much a sales killer.


    If Rhino makes magazine feed issues go away then I'll be in line to get one.

  4. Yep. If it ain't broken.....


    The other issue with the wire EDM process is the finish. The recast layer from wire EDM doesn't have any functional affect on an AR magwell, but the finish is not that great and can be slightly abrasive, especially after anodize. A broached finish is far superior. The cost of a broach is not cheap either, and you need a broaching machine too, but for production you can't touch it.

  5. Plunge rough the magwell in less than 30 seconds on a VMC or HMC, follow with a single contour pass at 4 or 5 doc, then either wire or broach. Wire EDM is slow and expensive, so you want to finish in one pass if possible. Broaches are more sensitive to the size of the initial form they have to go into, but a faster operation.


    At the last shop I worked at they would get quotes to wire AR magwells, but would never get any of the jobs because the process is too expensive. This would include hole pop the start hole, then 2 passes (rough & finish). You are looking at $40-$60 per magwell.

  6. Installed the Thordsen Bilateral magazine Lock. It was designed for ARs, but works on the MKA too.


    I have the Thordsen Armorer's Kit for this which contains a couple jigs, but it only works for ARs. So I needed to measure the distance between the mounting holes, position the lock on the receiver to drill & tap the first hole, then move to the next location and finish the second hole. Then mark the location for a tapped hole on the magazine latch, remove it and drill & tap. The latch sticks above the FB receiver (don't remember if it did on the stock one), so it interfered with the lock. Milled .040" from the notch on the lock that sits over the latch and the lock functions perfectly.


    The great thing about the lock is the actuating lever in it is drilled & tapped, so the gun can be taken out of California and you can install a button and use it as a normal magazine release. My wife and I have been talking about leaving here, and as soon as that happens the Bullet Buttons on all of our rifles are coming off as soon as we cross the California border.



  7. The nut/set screw configuration of the FB handguard is working so far, hasn't loosened yet. If loosening does become an issue I'll drill out the set screw threads of the nut and drill & tap the rod.


    At each outing, less than ten rounds through and the regulator lock ring loosens every time. Part of the problem seems to be the low thread height percentage and pretty loose tolerance, so I solved that with an extra long 10-32 dogpoint set screw.


    First milled a couple small flats to accurately tighten the ring with a small wrench. Held the gun on my mill and drilled a full diameter hole (#30 drill) x 5/16" deep through the ring and into rod. Drill and tap the ring in place then remove the ring and finish tapping by hand. Also milled a small notch to match the assembly. The dogpoint is .127 dia. and the hole is .1285 dia., so the ring has to be tightened accurately. That's the set screw in the first pic.



    • Like 2
  8. Are we going to be able to order one before the end of the year? California has a possible new assault weapons ban looming within the next couple weeks that could ban the sale here. Definitely want to get one before this potentially goes into effect.



    Do they get rid of the rear takedown screw and have them mate together like a conventional AR-15 upper/lower set?

    I believe that will be the TAC-12 A1 model. On their Facebook page they mention it is a few months out for the A1.


    Where did you find that info, I couldnt see that anywhere?


    Click on one of the TAC-12 pics and it is an August 13th comment on pic#3

  • Create New...