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DoctorCheney223

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Posts posted by DoctorCheney223

  1. No sir. It's $100 a month to advertise here and no you were not slammed. You were simply reminded of the rules which you obviously needed to know about. If you would like to discuss advertising with us I would be happy to speak with you on the phone and help you set up your account. All this talk lately about people trying to advetise here, and being turned away is way off base and we are trying our best to remedy that. I am sorry if you felt turned away and I am reaching out my hand to help with the situation. I'm PMing you my phone number right now. Will you please call me?

     

    Thank you for the help... I reallly do appreciate it. One of my offices almost burned down (half of the the office complex burned down) so I have to go meet some folks from a clean up company but I will definitely contact you.

     

    thanks!!!

    Ron

  2. Yes, we have.

     

    DoctorCheney223 was posting here, but evidently didn't want to pay the $5 to advertise.

     

     

    They do quality work and offer excellent customer service.

     

    I have tried (several times) to become an advertiser here but I didn't get a response. I responded in a post who I was without promoting Henderson Defense and was slammed by two moderators for it. One of the admins sent an apology for the incident and I replied that it was not a problem and please let me know what it takes to become an advertiser. I didn't receive a response from that reply so I can only assume that we are not welcome here?

     

    If somebody who runs this board can contact me at RCheney@hendersondefense.com I would LOVE to advertise here but I can't get a response.

     

    BTW, it's only $5 to advertise here?

     

    thanks,

    Ron

  3. The cover for the hand guard is from metal that my fabricator had left over from another project. As far as the gas port, the three holes were each enlarged just enough to ensure no short-stroking occured.

     

    thanks,

    Ron

    • Like 1
  4. I had thought of that but I don't know how well the clear would hold up. It is made to go over base coats and is basically just the resin and catalyst with out any titanium oxide or other materials they put in duracoat colors. I guess it would hold up if the surface was flat or "ruff" after blasting. Hey maybe I could add some pearl to it to make it look like a poo fly :haha2: that's what I did to my bath tub. Or maybe candy or large boat flake, would make Ed Roth proud

     

    Edit to add fuzzy furniture

     

    I was thinking about giving it a light spray of Molyresin stainless steel. It matches up pretty close. Also, thanks for the comments guys!!!

     

    thanks,

    Ron

  5. Hi Folks,

     

    Just want to show you a little something that we cooked up this morning. This is a Saiga-12 that we wanted to convert into a SBS.

     

    We still want to mod a few things but you can see what he has done so far.

     

    sbrtan1il2.jpg

     

    sbrtan2fc0.jpg

     

    sbrtan3hl5.jpg

     

    sbrtan4vl7.jpg

     

    thanks,

    Ron

  6. I am playing the devils advocate, but, from what I can see, the original lever to remove the mag has only been covered, not removed, and/or deactivated.

     

    I would think that the mag would have to be permanently affixed in place, like the AR's that you must open the upper to load with a stripper clip, otherwise, why not just remove the release button from your AR lower, or just weld a cover over it, with a hole that only a screwdriver can depress to drop the mag out.

     

    I think they key would be that the mag, no matter how much you dance about it, is STILL removable from the weapon.

     

    Frankly, Kali can go "F" themselves, I am an FFL, and I will no longer ship guns there, because now I have to do paperwork online, in THEIR jurisdiction, potentially putting myself at legal jeopardy if I screw up, knowingly or not.

     

    If its for personal use, well, thats a choice the person converting it has to make, who am I to advise them on whether or not to walk on untested ice.

     

    Hi Frick,

     

    I don't have the link (but it's on Calguns.net) but the law is very specific. The law states that if a magazine can be removed without the use of a tool, then the firearm has a quick detachable magazine. The question has been posed and the AG responded (again, all this is posted on Calguns) that a bullet is considered a "tool" because without it, it is impossible to remove the magazine. The "old days" of having to open your AR15 receiver to load roads has come and gone. There are various "bullet blocks" and "mag locks" on the market. These devices keep the rifles within the letter of the law.

     

    The law states NOTHING about permamently modifying the weapon or deactivating it. Just like a high capacity magazines are not allowed to be sold to residents of California, we sell replacement parts kits to California residents. The magazine is dissassembled and that now becomes legal for California residents. I make customers aware on our website that if they are going to purchase a replacement parts kit, they must currently own a high capacity magazine.

     

    California law does not have the "constructive possesion" like Federal law. Just because a resident of California has a complete set of parts to "manufacture" a high-cap magazine, until it's assembled into a magazine it is 100% legal.

     

    thanks,

    Ron

  7. So is the magazine locked into place ? If so than what is the point of having a saiga?

     

     

    You just have to use a bullet tip, screw driver or something that will fit into that hole and pull on the release lever. California law will not allow for a quick detachable magazine AND a pistol grip. This way the magazine is no longer considered quick detach (even though it only takes seconds more to detach) and is 100% complliant to California law.

     

    thanks,

    Ron

  8. I am going to repair a Saiga for another guy that had the same problem. He bought his brand new like that and wasn't getting any help from the the company that did the conversion so I offered to take care of it for him for free. I just felt bad for him.

     

    I haven't had any issues with this method. I use a factory bullet guide and remove the lug rail on the left side. The rivet hole in the guide acts as a drill guide and we just make a shallow hole into the floor of the trunion (plug weld). Then TIG weld it for a super clean weld that doesn't leave splatter, lag and some don't even need ANY sanding afterword.

     

    Here is a pic of one...

     

    ak103bulletguidewc6.jpg

     

     

    thanks,

    Ron

  9. I used one of their topcovers but soon figured that "cool" looking isn't practical :wub: I did swap it out for the type you have pictured in the original post. I needed the HK drum sights in the rear to compensate for elevation because the front HK sights welded to the gas black did not allow for it.

     

    Here is one of the topcovers they used to have available (don't know if they make these anymore) and it is a solid unit. It's the thicker topcover and you cannot squeeze it together like a Romy or Bulgarian topcover.

     

    galil2uf8.jpg

     

     

    thanks,

    Ron

    post-6922-1217399273_thumb.jpg

  10. Well.. from the opinion and advice of people from different forums I am almost finished with the AK-103 "clone".

     

    It has a military bullet guide, trigger and cover plate holes welded, trigger guard trimmed, welded and blended to magazine catch assembly, standard-issue hand guard retainer, new FSB with 24.5mm threads, military-issue 24.5mm muzzle brake, new gas tube, K-Var furniture, G2 trigger group and magazine will modified to accept military-issue magazines.

     

    ak10323jul08xj6.jpg

     

    ak10323julsideag2.jpg

     

    thanks,

    Ron

  11. We just got this Saiga and it worked it over. Some of the mods include...

     

    - installed a standard handguard retainer

    - installed the FSB with 24.5mm threads

    - installed K-Var black furniture (stock, handguards and pistol grip)

    - installed and plug welded a new factory bullet guide

    - relocated the trigger group and installed a G2 set

    - removed the "lug" from the left side of the trunion (inside and out)

    - move the trigger guard forward and rivet the rear portion to the receiver

    - cut and threaded the cleaning rod

    - installed a new upper gas tube and K-Var upper handguard

    - installed Bulgarian military-issue 24.5mm muzzle brake

    - TIG welded the holes where the old trigger pins and trunion "lug" were located

    - removed the ridge in the rear of the magazine well to use standard magazines

     

    ak103saiga22jw9.jpg

     

     

    ak103saiga11st9.jpg

     

     

    ak103bulletguidewc6.jpg

     

     

    thanks,

    Ron

  12. Plus the kit requires you to rivet it on. Dinzag has a drill/tap kit that just requires...a drill.

     

    Well it has the rivet hole in it, but you can use a screw just the same. 15 bucks just seemed like a decent deal, but if you have to dremel it down and shit, Dinzag's 'drop in' guide is probably a better solution for the price..

     

     

    Here is a pic of one we installed in a rifle that we converted to "near" AK-103 specs. I wasn't aware that the lug inside the trunion was the latest modification to the AK-series (I thought it was part of the import sterlization process). I was able to install the factory Bulgarian 7.62x39mm bullet guide and we plug welded it with a TIG. We also TIG'ed the other holes to give the rifle a more factory appearance. It still needs to be completely refinished but you you can see the difference.

     

    ak103bulletguidewc6.jpg

     

    ak103saiga22jw9.jpg

     

    ak103saiga11st9.jpg

     

    thanks,

    Ron

    (owner of Henderson Defense Industries)

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