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Posts posted by SaigaNoobie
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Just those bottom two pins. The one in the center holds the gas-setting pin in the gas block.
I'd recommend getting a piece of brass/aluminum that will give you a large surface to beat on and then knocking the block off.
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high carrier from modification and low hammer face, will cause this. Not the first one i've seen from people who take too much off the carrier.
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don't use a pipe cutter to cut the barrel. you'll end up with a circular constriction around the muzzle. it's ugly and affects patterning.
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Mine at 18.25 is Cyl.Bore. so I'd say, less than that! My 2001 is .615" diameter. I'd cut back a 1/4" at a time until I hit the proper constriction compared to a .615CB. IMHO
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I have a spike's Lower. Everything is in the right position and it mates with my dpms upper nice and tightly. They seem to be a good value.
~SN
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Well i noticed that the screw is in multiple positions in your pictures. I just figured you could screw in/out to adjust the tension on the spring which pushes on... say a Ball-valve... when the pressure spikes above X the ball moves a bit and releases some of the gas?
Or is this no where near how it works?
we have the correct pressure we need for the regulation, our spring are also specialty and are designed for a certain length, the pictures have all the same positions when its in which is at the shoulder. You probably are looking at one with one not in.
yah I went back and noticed that. No worries. I have a 12ga just want to run it in a 20 for testin.
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Well i noticed that the screw is in multiple positions in your pictures. I just figured you could screw in/out to adjust the tension on the spring which pushes on... say a Ball-valve... when the pressure spikes above X the ball moves a bit and releases some of the gas?
Or is this no where near how it works?
I'll test it out in the 20 and give you my thoughts anyway
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Hold up. Isn't the tension in the valve regulated by the screw in the front? Also, it's not like it wouldn't cycle a 20 if the tension were too strong, it just might not open the valve if the 3" was too light on the gasification. (real word)
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I've been using the UTG QD Side rail mount.... I used it on .308 v.21 and it mounted the scope just a hair to the right but held a zero and was good enough for me to kill a deer with.
My v21 now sports a 6x POSP optic with the SVD 7.62x54R drop reticle. Might as well just go 100% Russian
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Kmoore,
I don't know, but that's what I bought it for. I don't see why not. I'll let you know if you want to wait to see.
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Guys, I knocked off my gas block but can't seem to move the retaining pin for the barrel.
I did a few searches and came up empty handed. Anyone have some suggestions to how to get the barrel retaining pin out?
I've been trying to knock it out TOWARDS the charging handle side.
Thanks!
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Also, i'd be worried that they were stolen. $5000+ worth of guns for $200 is one of those, Too Good to be true things.
If not, Gratz on the great deal!
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I ordered One through your site. Hope that's what I'm supposed to do.
PS I'll take one.
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Guys, if anyone wants a S-20 reamed and threaded for Rem Chokes, Send me a PM.... I'll set up sort of a "Group Buy" for the services Via Jack Travers. Let me know.
~SN
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Custom brake by Jack Travers. He's skill'd.
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I have a new brake on my 20ga. will post pics later.
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without a machine shop or a lathe, i wouldn't attempt to move the gas block myself.
You need to turn down the barrel back about 1.5-2" and slip the gasblock back... don't forget drilling the ports for the gas and welding the other 3-4 holes up.
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Frank, Fuck yes. I want to come watch.
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If I had to do it again, I'd go with the Rock N Lock Guide "Wedge".
Let me clarify.
The wedge allows for use of any mag or drum, relatively efficiently.
The mag-well allows use of stick mags in the MOST efficient fashion. If you're going for SPEED only, and are restricted to 10rd mags, the magwell is king.
MY magwell has been 100% reliable, and for stick-mags, it's awesome.
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PSH. I'd fucking show up with a 5rd Saiga mag pinned in place, load it through the top, load a round in the chamber, push down the top round, close the bolt (5+1) and then hand-feed any more and then tell them to go fuck themselves.
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Can you link me the rule about the Shotguns plz? I'm not a member of IDPA and don't know where to look. thanks!
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If you want accuracy, the AMMO is the most important piece of the ACCURACY equation.
For instance, my .308 Saiga shoots 6MOA with Brown-Bear, 2 MOA with GGG Milsurp, and 1MOA with Federal Gold Medal Match ammo.
In contrast, a Savage .308 will shoot probably 1/2 MOA with FGMM... I know my .270 savage shoots one ragged hole at 100yrds with Hornady SST 130gr Factory Ammo.
GOOD factory ammo (FGMM or Hornady) will give you WAAAAAAAAAY better accuracy than Milsurp in ANY gun.
And here's another thing, you may blast 25rds through a 308 saiga in 2 mins, but a bolt gun for accuracy, you may shoot 25 in an HOUR. So PER-HOUR the FGMM is cheaper than .308 Milsurp in Bolt Vs Saiga.
Are you wanting a 500 yrd gun that shoots Mintue of Deer or a 500yrd Gun that shoots Minute of Gopher? That's the difference between a Saiga with good Milsurp and a Savage with good Match/Hunting ammo.
~SN
Version 3.0 AK co-witness side mount.
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
Posted
Oh god, something else i need now....