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second shooter

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Posts posted by second shooter

  1. this is certianly not common or desirable. if the projectiles are coming loose after being hand cycled through the weapon it may be the new feed ramp is not directing them into the chamber smoothly? if its doing this on every round something is wrong. if it just because these have been cycled through many times during testing its not so bad. to play it safe toss them but if they are your last few rounds and zombies are coming throught the door i would risk it!

  2. first post here.

     

    thought i should wait and read up so that i am informed about what to post. i feel pretty confidant that that is the worst looking saiga i have ever seen.

    and i have looked around a lot.

     

    sorry if anyone on the forum made that abomination. no, really, i am sorry.

     

    Maybe there should be an ugliest saiga 12 topic started? this one will be hard to beat , there are a few with every kind of bolt on scope lazer torch thingy that money can buy that are stupid ugly and with a little paint could come close!

  3. I have a ruger pc9 carbine, its a well made but heavy little gun, not overly powerful but all the same plenty of fun out to about 75 yards. i had a ruger p85 pistol and the mags were interchangable. i didnt realy get on with the pistol but the carbine is still in the safe and one of my favourites. if you can find one grab it, also i have heard the .40 cal version is quite a bit more powerful, maybe something to think about?

  4. They are the biggest gun shop in new zealand and i never buy from them, they have a large inventory but their prices are something else! for saiga rifles they are $260 more than some ther shops. get your gear else where!!!!

  5. Hi, i have only used proper headspace gauges but i have heard that cigarette rolling papers work well in conjunction with an empty shell case. you cut them to fit across the base of the shell (i guess start off with a fair few?) chamber the shell with the papers between the bolt face and case(do this on a gun with known correct headspace) add or remove papers untill the bolt will just lock over the case and papers, count the number of papers. repeat this with your selection of bolt heads and hopefully you find one that is close to what you want,use a fired case so you dont end up with a nasty hole in your workshop floor. this is only a guide to correct headspace but it may help?

     

    You can use Dykem on RIFLE rounds to check headspace, and there are also different leafs of metal of specific thicknesses. Never seen a gunsmith check headspace on a shotgun, like HillBilly2 said.

     

    Adding specific thicknesses of anything to a cartridge tells you nothing, because you have no idea what dimension you are starting from.

    While certainly not ideal, adding a known thickness of material to a go gauge would at least give you a pretty good indication of where you are. Keep in mind that the difference between a 7.62x39 go (safe) and a no-go (not safe) is only 6 one thousandths of an inch (.006) An unfired cartridge is anywhere within that .006 tolerance.

     

    I have no idea how dykem is going to tell you anything.

    you do get a specific measurement if you do your first test using a weapon with known correct headspace as i stated! an accurate measurement between the bolt face and the lip in the chamber that arrests foward movement of the shell case. papers + rim of case = correct headspace in test chamber.

    a good visual guide to excessive headspace in a shotgun is swelling of the rim on fired cases, bad ones can be seen without measuring, just hold it next to an unfired case.

    and headspace is important in a shotgun, maybe hire the gauges and do it properly?

  6. Hi, i have only used proper headspace gauges but i have heard that cigarette rolling papers work well in conjunction with an empty shell case. you cut them to fit across the base of the shell (i guess start off with a fair few?) chamber the shell with the papers between the bolt face and case(do this on a gun with known correct headspace) add or remove papers untill the bolt will just lock over the case and papers, count the number of papers. repeat this with your selection of bolt heads and hopefully you find one that is close to what you want,use a fired case so you dont end up with a nasty hole in your workshop floor. this is only a guide to correct headspace but it may help?

  7. I reload my own slugs ( made with both lee and lyman molds) they sit in a regular plastic shot wad and never leave any lead build up in the bore and i have fired over a thousand in my mossberg and i stoke them up fairly fast too! make your own or buy ones that have a plastic wad and you never have to worry about it.

  8. I got a 20 inch saiga m3 it looked so rude i had to cut it down to 11inch, also we cant get ar15 carbines here for under 5 grand so this is the next best thing at only $600. accuracy is still fine out to 100m i wish i had access to all the guns you guys do!post-12042-1239596409_thumb.jpg

  9. "Except for 3 gun matches, I haven't seen anyone that could accurately keep track of "was that 18 or 19 rounds?" while being shot at and or having to kill others and possibly deal with buddies that got wounded, or being hurt yourself. I'm not saying it can't be done. I'm saying that nobody in my Ranger unit was able to do it under the stress of actual combat...."

     

     

    Corbin,

     

    I think you're right on the mark. Under fire and with SHtF, round count is the last thing you're ganna be concentrating on. This is why I also suggested a "Next to last round" Tracer or Whislter round. For you guys shooting Hi Caps maybe the 5th and 4th from last round. Downside to the tracer is that the "tangos" may be able to trace it back to you. A Whistler can give you away, but if you're already shooting....? Question is, Will YOU hear it?

     

    I realize the LRBHO has been the standard for decades, but there has to be something better. How many people have been shot, trying to shoot with an empty chamber and open bolt?

     

    I am trying to come up with a simple mod that can be done to most any gun/mag. One thought being a "Smart mag" with a sensor strip that plugs into a gun mounted lead to a light, just under the rear sight, that changes from (as you mentioned) green to yellow to red as you empty the mag. Downside is.....That itty bitty LED light can be picked up by a sniper several hundred yards away. Hmmm, perhaps we need a rheostat(sp), lol.

     

    My Taurus PT-145 has a mechanical "Round in the Chamber" Indicator, but that doesn't tell me when I'm down to my last couple of rounds. A mechanical indicator would be nice and I'm working on that too. Think OLD Loony Tunes, with a flag sticking up telling you "Hey dumb A$$, You're bout out of Ammo!!!",

    LOL.

     

    Thanks for the feedback,

    Mikel

    Hi Mikel, do you have any more info on those whistler rounds?, can they be made up or are they a factory bought round ? sounds interesting and might scare the opposition at the 3 gun comp.

  10. post-12042-1239334403_thumb.jpgpost-12042-1239334443_thumb.jpg

    I got 2 00 buck molds from this guy about ayear ago, they work well , he posted them to new zealand for me, great product and its saving me heaps of money! once the mold is up to temperature it casts excellent shot, you have to spend a bit of time cutting the balls off as they come in strips and there is a fair bit of lead waste but it all goes back in the pot to be re used.

     

     

    Pics Please. Also where do you get the lead from(cheap)?

  11. i will try and get a picture up later today, i buy my lead from the scrap metel yard, it costs very little but it varies in quality, i usually melt down a big batch at a time so 6 months worth of shot is all the same weight. i use an old potbelly stove and a large crucible it seems to be better than a gas ring for large quantities.

  12. I got 2 00 buck molds from this guy about ayear ago, they work well , he posted them to new zealand for me, great product and its saving me heaps of money! once the mold is up to temperature it casts excellent shot, you have to spend a bit of time cutting the balls off as they come in strips and there is a fair bit of lead waste but it all goes back in the pot to be re used.

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