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iSaiga

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Posts posted by iSaiga

  1. :killer:

    Well, I shot it and just about everyone was partially right. Thanks for your input!

     

    First I used Federal WallyWorld Bulk Pack target load 1 1/8 #8. At 10 yards it spun nicely, took the paint right off but no cratering. things were going well and I finally decided to use some slugs.

     

    I shot it at around 20 yards. The slugs were Federal Power-Shok 1oz Lead Slug ~1610 fps muzzle velocity. First hit on the lower plate, whipped around like crazy but no crater! Hooray! Second shot deflected off the lower plate and bent the lower horizontal support at a 15-20 degree angle. Undaunted, I fired again. Third shot hit the center of the "twist" steel between the two plates. The whole target launched about 6-8 feet in the air and flew back about 15 yards. :eek:

     

    Huge crater in the steel. Looks like 1/4" of material missing from impact point. That concluded my steel shooting for the day.

     

    Here's the photographic evidence for all to review:

     

    post-14590-12570214422018_thumb.jpgpost-14590-12570214559893_thumb.jpgpost-14590-12570214665277_thumb.jpgpost-14590-12570215018247_thumb.jpg

  2. Going shooting with some friends tomorrow and I have this Birchwood-Casey steel pistol target that is rated up to .44 Magnum. Do you think it'll stand up to a standard shotgun slug? Any safety considerations other than the usual stay back a safe distance and wear eye protection?

     

    Thanks!

     

    Here's a pic of the target:

    post-14590-12569498079156.jpg

  3. You know, I just mastered the Kydex cycle in my garage and my holsters are coming out professional looking. I'm planning to make some mag holders for my Saiga mags (5, 8 & 10 rounders). I made a belt mounted carrier for my MD-20 drum for 3-gun matches. I'd like to know if there's much interest on the board for Kydex mag carriers. I'd be happy to make some any sell them. Mounting options are easy to change (belt loop vs MOLLE).

     

    (Note to da Mod gods: if I'm violating some policy, please let me know)

  4. hi temp kydex thermoforms @ 325 to 390. Not the stuff I make sheaths out of. Probably would work, but I still wouldn't want it in contact with gas tube or gas block.

     

    Kydex thermoforms at 390 degrees Fahrenheit. That's for great detail and sharp bends. I can tell you from experience that Kydex will soften & bend at temperatures much lower than that, say 250 degrees Fahrenheit. The thickness of the Kydex matters. .06 kydex will flop at 200 degrees while .125 will still be stiff. If you could get some really thick stuff, say .25 or greater, you could conceivably make a hand guard from that. It might work, but first I would go and blast 100 or more rounds indoors and measure your barrel surface temperature with a thermometer that can measure 400 degrees or more. If the temps were 200 degrees or less, you might pull it off.

     

    PM me if you want to give it a try. I can help you source the super-thick kydex and give you tips on the forming of the guard.

  5. BTW, I counted ~35 shots in that video, is that right?

     

    Yep. :killer:

     

    Here's the stats:

     

    10 Targets (2 steel, 8 Paper)

    Rounds Fired: 35 (30 Buck, 5 Slugs)

    Rounds-Per-Target: 3.5

     

    Total Time: 35.8 seconds

    Reload 1: 9.5 seconds(forgot to lock bolt back)

    Reload 2: 5.6 seconds

     

    Not bad for a 'Novelty' gun. One question I got repeatedly was: "Yeah, but is it reliable?"

    My Answer: "Well, It went bang every time I pulled the trigger today"

     

    We fired 300+ rounds in the 8 hour training day. I didn't have a single FTF/FTE.

     

    Now, if I had that JT Mag well, I could cut those reloads down to about 3 seconds... :D

  6. That was a pretty awesome vid man!

     

    Were you local, or did you fly out for the course? The reason I ask is that I have been thinking about going to something similar to this.

     

    Thanks for sharing.

     

    Hey Moe! Yeah, I'm 'local', living in Utah county temporarily. I learned plenny in the course, despite the disrespect, and I will train with them again. The lead instructor, Dennis is very knowledgeable. The 8-hour course went by very quickly.

     

    C'mon out! I don't want to be the lone Saiga out there.

  7. Awesome. Looks like you were tearing it up. Is that the Hellion mounted on there? If so it's the first video yet of the Hellion on the S-17.

     

    Cool vid!

     

    Zach

    KROSS F.A.

     

    Kross: Yes, that's your Hellion on the front of my S-17!

     

    It fits tight and is so light I didn't even notice the change in hand guards. Felt super solid and the finish is flawless, not a machine mark on it. The Hellion allowed me to mount a stubby VFG upfront for awesome muzzle control. I highly recommend it for anyone with an S-17.

     

    P.S.: Thanks for shipping so quickly!

  8. Howzit Saigaphiles,

     

    I took a shotgun training course back in August. This being my first training course, I didn't know what to expect exactly. When I arrived, I realized that I was sort of the odd-man-out. Everyone else had pump shotguns and were wearing tactical load-bearing vests. After I got my gear ready and assembled with everyone else, I started getting looks. The instructor looked my Tromix S-17 over and said "What the F*** is that?". I explained, but his eyes really popped when he saw the drum.

     

    While loading my mags (in shoulder map bag), I overheard the comment "Who brings a man purse to a shotgun course?"

    Safety briefing over, we started with patterning exercises and proceeded through out the day with different drills. I found the "Mireles Drill" challenging with the S-17, but not impossible. After my solo run through a serpentine/ multiple threats drill, the disparaging comments ceased and I received lots of compliments/questions about my Saiga.

     

    It appears that they liked it enough to post the video on their website: www.combat-terror.com

     

    Here's the youTube Link:

  9. I ran into something similar when polishing my carrier, hammer and bolt underside. I ended up removing a bit of the material on my hammer face though, and that left sharp corners that dug into the pretty polished underside of the carrier. A quick touch up with a dremel and the corners were radiused a little. That really helped it to run smoother.

    The other thing to check for is filings and burrs on your rails or rail slots in the carrier. I had a small piece of brass shaving (probably from a shell) that got stuck under the right rail and it really made things rough for a bit. Granted, I could have probably just shot it a lot and it would have eventually worked loose, but I removed it by hand.

     

     

    Hope this helped.

     

     

     

    Corbin

     

    Thanks Corbin. How much would you say you removed from the hammer face? I checked my rails with my fingers and they seem to be smooth & well lubed. It seems to be hanging up at the point where the bolt carrier rides over the hammer face when its in the cocked position. I'm learning as I go as I have little to no metal working experience. My metal working experience started with converting my Saiga on my own. :P

  10. Have you fired your S12 yet? My saiga worked much better after I ran about 50 slugs though it.

     

    I haven't fired since polishing but I'm well past 1,000 rounds since I'm using it for local competitions. In my opinion, it's been fired plenty with about 100 full-power slugs.

     

    Thanks,

    Chris

  11. The modification is a lot more involved than just making it look shiny.

     

    Would you please tell me: Do the same areas I polished need to be ground down a bit? How much is enough? How much is too much?

    What more is involved?

     

    From everything I read, people were 'shaving' the bolt to aid loading a full mag, but I can do that without a problem now.

     

    Thanks,

    Chris

  12. Howzit Saigaphiles!

     

    So, it was raining all day yesterday and I went to Harbor Freight and purchased a $20 rotary tool (aka Dremel) and $15 worth of polishing accessories. Came home and searched the S-12 knowledge base here and looked at MikeD's action polishing PDF and went to town.

     

    Being careful not to remove any material, I attempted to polish the bottom of the bolt carrier with the polishing compound and a felt bit on the tool, which accomplished absolutely nothing. It did make the felt tip black, but that's about it. I went looking through the attachments box trying to decide what tool to use, the aluminum oxide stone wheels? The wire wheels? I finally settled on the rubber wheel, which worked like a charm. The metal came up shiny and I proceeded to polish the bolt, bottom of the bolt carrier and hammer face. I then went back and polished again with the polishing compound and felt tip, followed by a clean felt wheel. Wow, what a shine! I reassembled my gun and did a function check and everything was fine.

     

    Here's my problem: Everyone who's done this has talked about how smooth their action runs after polishing & smoothing. My action still feels stiffer than a 14 year-old on Viagra! I checked the rails, they feel smooth, no burrs. Same for the bolt carrier rails. What's up? What more can I do?

     

    Last question: What is 'Lapping' as in "This competition Saiga-12 has a hand-lapped action"

     

    Please Lemme Know!

    Thanks!

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