VWBeamer
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Posts posted by VWBeamer
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I love you too.
So, if we don't talk about it, the threat will go away?
stop fucking making BS posts like this and arguing about things that make no difference, and write you representatives and make sure there is no BS legislation put in place that will make a difference -
So, who thinks there will be a push to ban "assault" weapons again?
Think current weapons will be grandfathered in?
Maybe certain features will be banned, like folding stocks, pistol grips,etc
Think the large hi cap mags will be banned?
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FWIW my drum needed the A fitting. It took less than 60 seconds for me to see it didn't fit, grab the file I had handy, remove the material, check, remove more, and lock it in place. It's just dust you're removing.
I actually laughed out loud...funny stuff.
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Would it be possible to design a tappet with piston ring. I think it would solve a lot of problems if it didn't foul.
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Looks better than that other kit.
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Hey guys,
It's been awhile since I've been on here. Anyways, I was at the range yesterday taking out my cousin from Cali for some shooting. We started off shooting birdshots on gas setting number 2. I loaded a 5 round mag with some Winchester 3" slugs and forgot to switch the gas setting to number 1
. Everything functioned fine but how bad is it shooting slugs or 00 buck on gas setting number 2? I only shot 5 rounds. I removed the dust cover and everything seems fine. Would my S-12 be ok?I wouldn't sweat it.
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This. I did A and B, 20 minutes MAX, being extra careful not to screw up my new 300 dollar drum.
I had to file A and B and it took about 15 minutes. What took so long? 2 hours? I suspect your jewel's files are to blame.Jake
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No need for it, but it's cool thing to do.
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You must be a democrat....trying to save me from myself. You the same type that make me wear my seat belt in my own car. Tax cigarettes because they are bad for me.
So thanks for the advice, but don't flame me because I'm doing what it says to do in the owners manual.
I'm not saying that it's definitely a mistake, but you must have noticed what a crappy translation the "English" owner's manual is. You can barely make sense of some of the sentences in there. Think about it.
True. but a little oil ain't going to kill you either or it would have already happened.
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You must be a democrat....trying to save me from myself. You the same type that make me wear my seat belt in my own car. Tax cigarettes because they are bad for me.
So thanks for the advice, but don't flame me because I'm doing what it says to do in the owners manual.
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not rying to flame, but i see no purpose for .410 beside target shooting. It really doesn't have enough juice to kill anything larger than a rabbit.
If the .410 was measured in gauge size, it would b a 68 gauge IIRC. Think about that.
The 12 has the largst selection of ammo, and that's why i got it.
The 20 is tempting. 80% of the power, 50% of the recoil.
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ok, you are right, and the owners manual is wrong.
Hey, let's trust this anonymous poster on the internet and ignore the instructions in the owners manual that came with the 600 dollar shotgun I just bought.
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You concern is respected, but I remain unconvinced.
Non of the above applies to a shot gun. a freaking plastic shell is not gripping the chamber.
Not to get in a pissing contest, but I have fired more rounds thru a AR-15 than most here, unless they have also served. In the desert, we would spray CLP all over the whole gun. Out of the millions of rounds fired , never heard of a catastrophic failure. Never had a warning not to spray the gas system or chamber.
If it was that big of a problem, why is there no warning in the saiga owner's manual?
But, since this common knowledge, and such a no no, I guess it shouldn't be too hard for one of you to find a documented case of a weapon failure cased by oil in the gas system, after all there are thousands of us red necks putting axle grease and such on our weapons.
If I wrong, i will say as much, but i need something better than old wives tails based on older arms and different oils.
I sure you concern is for my safety, but don't insult me with the axle grease comments and others insinuating I'm stupid.
See all that carbon on your Bolt in your AR? Notice how hard it is to get off? Guess where else it's building up...the gas port and gas tube.
Were you in the Military? If so and I caught you "Spraying CLP all over the whole gun" or oiling the gas system, chamber or bolt face I'd have you busted down to Seaman Recruit and cleaning bilges.
WTF, Seaman Recruit. The Navy typically do not use there weapons in the same conditions as ground troops. this why you have no real world experience with weapons. The dust in the middle east can be very fine, almost like talcum powder. You either spend time cleaning it, or, the lazy way, spray it with CLP. I'm pretty lazy.
BTW,I present facts and all can do is pull excuses out your navy ass.
You are backing up your claims by saying that no one sprays lube in the chamber and that the russians made a mistake in the owners manual? Bawahhaha!
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I respect your opinion, and no doubt it applies to other weapons and is good advice as a precaution for the saiga 12. I think it's sound advice for the chamber to be checked before firing any weapon. In the saiga owner's manual it does say to check chamber before firing and to wipe any fouling or grease from it.
There is no warning not to fire it with oil in the chamber.
I refuse to believe there is a great danger, or we would have documented cases of catastrophic failures. After a quick GIS, I can find none.
In fact I can find no documentation of a catastrophic failure of any saiga, of any kind. I open to changing my mind if someone can find one.
I don't think you have proven that this causes a danger to either the weapon or the operator.
non the less, I urge everyone to do what they feel is safe and to do there own research in this matter.
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I have to differ with Etek on one issue.
The bolt face and chamber should NEVER be oiled or lubed with ANYTHING on any gun, nor should any lube be put in the magazine that will transfer to the ammo. Modern firearms rely on the cartridge body expanding and obturating to grip the chamber walls on firing, and rely on it gripping the chamber walls when pressure is at maximum to seal it. That's why centerfire cartridges use a brass case or a thin steel one designed to expand under pressure, and spring back into shape after peak pressure subsides to make extraction easy. Reducing the friction in the chamber allows the case to slam back against the bolt or breech with full force, and can blow the bolt open at peak pressure, causing what is known as a "ka-boom", that is, the receiver can blow out and possibly destroy the gun. The internet is rife with "ka-booms" that shooters can't understand why they happened. Absent overload or failure to fully close the bolt upon firing, lubed chambers are usually the cause.
Yeah, I know, you've done it for years with no problems. Rest assured, your time will come if you persist in defying the laws of science.
Oil your bore if you want, but keep the chamber, bolt face, and mag interior dry, and then dry the bore before you shoot, if you value your eyes and face, not to mention your gun.
If you must lube the inside of your mag to make it function smoother, use a Teflon spray that dries and leave a thin dry film that adheres to the inside of the mag walls and won't transfer to the ammmo and be carried into the chamber.
As far as oiling the tappet or piston in an S 12, ANY oil will burn under the high heat of firing, and will create carbon that will be difficult to remove. Yes, even synthetic or two-stroke oil. Again, I know you've done it for years and your gas chamber stays clean. So your gun is "special", and the laws of science don't apply to it. Where do you think the carbon come from when you shoot with a completely dry gas system? DUH!!!! Keeping your gas system clean and dry is the best thing you can do for it. Note that FN-FALs have a fully adjustable gas system to allow increasing gas pressure as carbon builds up in the gas system in sustained use in combat, to keep the rifle firing when it's needed most. There's good reason for that, and it works. FAL owners know to not oil their gas pistons.
Use your favorite lube for the other moving parts in your Saiga. Break-Free CLP is an excellent lube if you want to replace it frequently, a molybdenum grease is better for high pressure high friction components like the bolt and bolt carrier, with CLP everywhere else (except in the chamber or gas system).
Now, it's your gun, and if you decide to tempt fate, knock yourself out. But you've been warned. If you insist on lubing your chamber, don't come here and cry that Saigas are crummy shotguns because yours blew up, and if you oil your gas system and it cokes up, enjoy the expenditure of elbow grease you'll need to clean it. There's no known really good solvent that will remove the cooked carbon in a gas system. Ask AR 15 owners that shoot a lot. That question is common on AR 15 sites, and so far, no one has found a really good way to remove baked on carbon from AR 15 bolt carriers and bolts except lots of hard work. Those that oil or lube the wrong parts have worse carbon build up, and there is even a special tool to remove baked on carbon from the inside of the AR 15 bolt carrier. I have one.
+1 good read, very helpful.
All he proved is that he has never read the owners manual that came with his saiga 12 shotgun, because it specifically tells you to lube the chamber.
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I forget to mention, in the saiga manual it specifically says to oil the chamber.
This from page 20 of my manual-
-after cleaning is done, lubricate the barrel bore, the chamber and choke tube with clean rifle oil.
and not just a thin film either, it says to use a bore brush dipped in rifle oil
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On table 4 of the same page it states The bolt, bolt support, receiver guides-/..Wipe he components with waste soaked in rifle oil and wrung out
Think the Russian are unaware of oil causing chambers to explode??
It also states the whole shotgun should be kept cleaned and lubricated.
Now where in the manual ( that I can find) is there a warning or even is it mentioned not oil the bolt face or gas system.
I'll admit it does not specifically say to oil the gas system, but it also does not say not to. It does say to keep the whole shotgun clean and lubricated, and the gas sytem is part of the shot gun.
Again, no hard feelings or trying to get in a pissing match. But I think some people are trying to apply rules based on older/ different weapons and different oils.
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You concern is respected, but I remain unconvinced.
Non of the above applies to a shot gun. a freaking plastic shell is not gripping the chamber.
Not to get in a pissing contest, but I have fired more rounds thru a AR-15 than most here, unless they have also served. In the desert, we would spray CLP all over the whole gun. Out of the millions of rounds fired , never heard of a catastrophic failure. Never had a warning not to spray the gas system or chamber.
If it was that big of a problem, why is there no warning in the saiga owner's manual?
But, since this common knowledge, and such a no no, I guess it shouldn't be too hard for one of you to find a documented case of a weapon failure cased by oil in the gas system, after all there are thousands of us red necks putting axle grease and such on our weapons.
If I wrong, i will say as much, but i need something better than old wives tails based on older arms and different oils.
I sure you concern is for my safety, but don't insult me with the axle grease comments and others insinuating I'm stupid.
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"Old time shooters warned me of never putting any cleaning solvent or oil in the gas cylinder. Something about gumming everything up. Hmmm. This I just had to see. So I proceeded to clean the cylinder with solvent and lightly lube it and the piston with gun oil. Never found any gum and the rifle always functioned normally. It was just "butts" talk if you know what I mean. Well meaning people repeating what they had heard 20 years before. I sleep better knowing that my rifles are clean. I think it was Elmer Keith who said: "The sun never sets on a dirty gun".
http://www.snipercountry.com/HotTips/RifleM1A_Cleaning.htm
I have read my owner's manual and no where in it does it say to keep oil out of the gas system. It does says to keep the whole weapon lubricated with rifle oil.
I think it's funny how people keep repeating old wife's tales, with out knowing the reason behind them.
I specifically suggested mobile 1, which does not burn and leave carbon.
I agree, cheap motor oil will burn and/or coke up the gas system.
again, just a suggestion, everyone should do what they think is best.
Maybe you might feel better with a couple of sprays of break free or rem oil.
all i know is adding oil helps seal and lube the piston, and makes a noticeable difference when firing ,low brass.
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Nice. I second the need for a sling.
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Others use oil in the gas system also, in this case 2 stroke motor oil.
http://www.m1-m1a-ar15.com/careandcleaning.html
BTW, do what you feel is safe.
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just curious, why?
I served 7 years in the US Army, we sprayed break free on everything.
The problem is the saiga is not designed to fire low brass.
Do what you want but remember the first rule of gas operated firearms."DO NOT USE ANY OILS OR LUBRICATION IN THE GAS SYSTEM!"
If you actually NEED some sort of lubricant to get the firearm to function you probably have something wrong. A dry lubricant such as graphite 'might' be in order.
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I apologize for my smart remark. it worked for me.
so do alot of people do this oil thing? it really works? i would think the oil would make the gun collect more debree in the gas chamber or what ever its called.? thanks for the input. -
Add a little mobile 1 motor oil on the gas piston. just remove the gas plug and pour a couple of cc of oil down there.
The oil seals and lubes the piston. sounds stupid, but it makes a big difference.
sounds scary to me.
You scare easy. You should stay home, and leave the weapons to the big boys.
FTC Issue
in Saiga-12
Posted
I have a mossberg for home defense and a saiga 12 for national defense.
The guns are picky. I would suggest the stock 5 round mag also.