The Sarge
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Posts posted by The Sarge
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Sling?
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As I am obviously not soliciting business, I assume your speaking in the generic sense, on some board rule, and not on the topic of the legality as it is applied by the ATF?.
I dunno.
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"Engaged in the business" is what is up for interpretation here.
If I mow my neighbors yard 6 times a year your saying I am in the landscaping business? 12 times a year? How much of doing "something" or how much money needs to be made before you are engaged in the business?
This has already been defined and litigated by the IRS for other businesses. You have to make more than $9K per year. Under that and it is a hobby.
As for the ATF? There are cases on the books about guys buying guns, fixing, modifying and reselling them. They were charged with being a firearms dealer without a license. Outcomes of these cases are unclear. Probably a plea deal and no record. I dunno.
I am a big fan of calling up my ATF agent I deal with all the time. He always likes free hamburgers and coffee anyway so it works out for both of us
This has come up in our conversations. He shared a case he had with a guy and his wife getting a divorce. She was screaming he worked on peoples guns all the time and he wasnt licensed. Bitch. He checked it out. Yes the guy worked on peoples guns. Yes he charged them some money. Guy also had a full time job. He was justy doing this on the side for extra money. The ATF concluded he was not a dealer (reselling guns he fixed) and they closed the case. No action taken. Point here is he made it clear the ATF is looking for guys dealing guns (private sales) that clearly exceed just buying and selling guns as a private citizen/collecter and enter the realm of dealing firearms for profit.
What needs to be understood is most of the "rules/law" are left wide open for interpretation. If you are the slightest bit concerned get your FFL. Easy as pie. Simple to do. Then you have no issues or worries.
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Many moons ago I had a guy that dropped his Saiga on a rock and boogered the crown up a tad. Had a gash @ around 3 O'Clock and was spitting fliers out. I recrowned the barrel with a 11 degree military crown and that thing shot lights out from there. So from there on out I have recrowned every Saiga every caliber (rifle) and they all shoot more accurate than stock. Why? I therozie the concave crown allows much less barrel turbulance in front of the muzzle. You get less "wobble" on the bullet as it leaves the barrel.
I use a Dave Mason military recrowning kit. Had it for a long long time. Very easy to use and the carbide cutters last forever. Very clean and shiny cut....
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Mods if this is not allowed accept my apologies and please delete.
Just a heads up SGAmmo got 175K rounds of Golden Tiger 7.62X39 in yesterday. Selling it in 1K lots @ $218
I know it has been rather hard to find lately and just wanted to let fellow forum members know they have it and are not gouging like others right now.
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5/8" is ~16mm. And good luck with the pipe cutter. I ruined two wheels trying to cut through. Finally resorted to a hack saw and took it slow around the shroud.
I just buy the steel wheels off the internet. I have cut maybe 4 or 5 dozen barrels with the same wheel. The wheels at Home Depot/Lowes are for copper.
When it breaks through, the piece your cutting "pops" (you can hear it over the stereo)...doesnt even touch the barrel.
I am on my 3rd die but still using the original steel wheel on the pipe cutter
Have two more 7.62X39's to convert today.
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Wow, you have a 7 second Goat and a 10 second fifth-gen 'maro, all that proves is that you can write checks...
Lord man! Calm down and learn to read. Nobody said shit about a 7 second GTO or a 10 second Camaro. WTF is your problem anyway? I build engines. So fucking what? You call them any fucking thing you would like and we both will be happy. But reading and comprehension could be your friend.
I dont own every Comp Eliminator...I build engines. I own two shops...started as a hobby and went from there....Whoopi fucking Doo. Lord ...the idiots on the internet is overwhelming. Write checks? Did you forget your meds or something?
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- A "short block" is an engine block with a rotating assembly. No heads or valve train.
- A seven second quarter mile takes a lot more than just a "short block", or even a small block chevy.
A short block is an engine design.
A block is the spinner assembly without the heads etc.
Yes there are a few other parts I need. To lazy list them and most "normal" folks get that
A block is a bare block.
A short block is a block + rotating assembly.
A long block is a short block + heads & valve train.
A turn key is a long block + carb, pan, dist & everything else.
The term small block & big block is what I believe you are referring to. Also referred to as mouse & rat motors.
I agree most "normal" folk don't split hairs when they hear someone use the term short block when referring to a small block mouse motor. But this is the internet.
To back up my statements I googled "short block", and this is the top hit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Short_block
"Short block is an automotive term describing an engine sub-assembly.
A short block is the portion of the engine block below the head gasket but above the oil pan. An in-block cam engine will also include the camshaft and timing gear. The overhead cam style of engine will not include the aforementioned parts on the shortblock. A shortblock is usually purchased to upgrade the water jacket, piston size or bore. Assemblies typically include the crankshaft installed and balanced along with the main bearing."
There are also several hits to engine builders & machine shops that sell short blocks as a bare block + rotating assembly, and long blocks as a short block + heads.
Nice cars you have there.
Thanks...LOL....I will never get "used to" the internet.....Since the early 60's when I got into cars we refer to the small block as the short block....always have and always will. Old farts I run with...if you refer to a "short block" as a "small block" you will get some funny looks......
Point is this kid sez you can't run 7's with either one anyway...right? Just aint true at all.....But I did get a good laugh....hell I seen with my own two eyeballs a guy put a 283 Chevy in a freaking motorcycle and run 6's...no power adder
I wouldn't do it!Based on the pics you posted at the bottom, are we to believe you are David Rampy of Piedmont, Ala?
http://www.teamsimpsonracing.com/fpdb/images/David_Rampy.jpg
Rampy is a God among men.
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Gee whiz Wally...I hope my "credibility" passes your expert review. LOL...............The internet......
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Mine cycled better without the TwisterPuc....better with the stock puck or the Kings Armory puck.
I dunno why. Not going to get into analytics but will share experience.
I think these things vary wildly from gun to gun. So your mileage may vary.
I haven't heard many good things about the twisterpuc...
As for your signature, I have to question your wording, are you talking about a big-block short block, or a small-block short block? If small block, then what again, are we talking about here Gen I or Gen III/Gen IV? I mean really, it doesn't make you sound very credible, seven seconds is hard to attain without a power adder or alcohol...
Thanks for the belly laugh......you need to go to the drag races and watch the A/EA Comp division and come back and say that friend. Few (not all) of my toys.........all short blocks with no power adders of any kind.
This is a LS3 Short Block...as this car sets it runs low 14 sec 1/4 mile.100% Street legal.
This is a 408 Iron Block stuffed in a 2004 GTO...again a short block with no power adders....as it sits it runs high tens in the 1/4 mile...consistently with zero power adders but lots and lots of frame/suspension and drive-train modifications.100% Street legal.
My class in the NHRA is A/EA Comp No power adders and runs mid 7's all day long. Not Street legal.
ENNIS, Texas - SUMMIT FastNews - Order after one round of qualifying in Competition Eliminator at the NHRA Full Throttle Drag Racing Series, 25th annual O'Reilly Super Start Batteries NHRA Fall Nationals presented by Castrol Syntec:
Psn Driver Class Index ET Ov/Un
1. Bruno Massel DD/AT 7.74 7.203 -0.537
2. David Rampy A/EA 7.84 7.308 -0.532
3. Chase Williams E/A 8.36 7.829 -0.531
4. Pete Carbery B/A 7.56 7.053 -0.507
5. Kevin Self F/EA 8.49 7.985 -0.505
6. Todd Patterson A/SMA 8.52 8.022 -0.498
7. Will Hatcher A/DA 7.13 6.634 -0.496
8. Clark Smiley C/A 7.95 7.491 -0.459
9. Mike Trumble A/SMA 8.52 8.074 -0.446
10. Keith Hall D/SM 8.98 8.534 -0.446
11. Rick Brown F/AA 8.49 8.069 -0.421
12. Terry Ticel G/AA 8.91 8.494 -0.416
13. Chris McGaha D/A 8.26 7.853 -0.407
14. Darin West F/AA 8.49 8.087 -0.403
15. Duane Robison C/A 7.95 7.554 -0.396
16. Jody Holland L/AA 9.50 9.140 -0.360
17. Bill Morse B/SMA 8.66 8.310 -0.350
18. Greg Porter G/SMA 9.30 8.956 -0.344
19. Ray Goodman A/EA 7.84 7.564 -0.276
20. Michael Johnson A/EA 7.84 7.589 -0.251
21. Brad Klein B/AP 7.84 7.609 -0.231
22. Cordis Johnson G/SMA 9.30 9.090 -0.210
23. Adam White A/ND 7.42 7.229 -0.191
24. Dennis Smiley B/DA 7.39 11.765 4.375
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- A "short block" is an engine block with a rotating assembly. No heads or valve train.
- A seven second quarter mile takes a lot more than just a "short block", or even a small block chevy.
A short block is an engine design.
A block is the spinner assembly without the heads etc.
Yes there are a few other parts I need. To lazy list them and most "normal" folks get that
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You did not mention a bullet guide nor foregrip et al in your original post.
The trip factor on 922r is what? Pistol grip/larger (capacity above 10 rounds) magazine?
Not bullet guides nor foregrips.
So trying to read your mind here...I assume your wanting to go with a larger capacity magazine?
Muzzle attachment doesnt count towards compliance. Piston does. Replacing a Russian foregrip with a Bulgarian foregrip nets you nada for compliance. So you need three more compliant parts to change out here. US Made magazine is three parts. FCG is three parts. Butt stock would be one part.
Here....this may help you friend....
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Mine cycled better without the TwisterPuc....better with the stock puck or the Kings Armory puck.
I dunno why. Not going to get into analytics but will share experience.
I think these things vary wildly from gun to gun. So your mileage may vary.
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Stock/Standard Saiga is 922r compliant right out of the box.
With no additional parts.
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LOL....I guess I am just not cool....but I am alive.
I dunno...I own maybe 35-40 semi auto pistols in mint/perfect condition.....However...I am not cool and my main carry is a .44 revolver or my S&W .38 (when in shorts)....I am not belittling or criticizing anybody here for their choices...mans weapon is his/her personal preference....I am not saying I am right and you are wrong....but the bad guys will charge you from behind or "out of nowhere"...and you have a split second to stop the threat. You better train for it....it happens when you least expect it. It must all be muscle memory and I do not rely on "equipment"...I have relied on muscle memory and a uber dependable weapon with serious stopping power. Enough of that .....
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I'd clean her good and do not over lube it!
Get some decent ammo....Try Federal (as mentioned above)....Winchester bulk is some seriously underpowered ammo.
Don't forget...these are military type weapons never designed nor intended to shoot powder puff loads....just aint built for it.
Your OK friend...there is nothing wrong with your gun.
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Well I guess I'll provide "noise" from the back of the bleachers here.....more in the form of a few questions. Maybe a statement or two
1. I am curious why the quick detachable side mount is not the go to mount? Easy to work with. Doesn't move. Inexpensive. I have over 20 Saiga's always ready to go...all of them with the quick detachable side mount carrying the red dots and lights. As for co-witness...hell that takes about .1 nano seconds to remove the damn thing and go to town with iron sights.
2.Red dots are a funny animal. Folks on the interweb will get their panties in a wad if the red dot is less than $200 dollars. On my Saiga 12's I have a cheap POS from China....these things hold zero forever. Use AAA batteries and are dead nut right on. What more can I ask for?
The above are really just questions....just curious...
As for the red dots on a pistol. I have yet to see or be involved in a single instance where a pistol was drawn in a defensive situation where the shooter "aimed"....it doesn't work that way. All my personal experience has been draw, point and fire. I train quite a lot.....and all my training is point and shoot. Both eyes open. Double tap. My pistol never comes above my chest/shoulders. In the real world (and from personal experience)....draw/fire is less than a second and there is no aiming....point and shoot.....there is no time for "aiming" and it would put the shooter at a significant disadvantage if he had to "aim"....
Now if you folks are talking about shooting paper at the gun range then OK....I understand...but training for the real world shoot.....both eyes open/pistol chest high/double tap.....practice practice practice. Accuracy is pie plate size (chest) at 15 yards all day long.
I now return to the cheap seats.........
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Try the spring also.
There is a hole for the PG. When you move the FCG up the hole is there. There is no issue at all with your optics and the rifle handles very well with no PG and the FCG moved up. 922r compliance is easy...
I am a native Texan and about freaking died after 3 years in LA.
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We both posted at the same time
OK I understand now thanks...........
I would try and polish the existing FCG and replace the spring then....see what that does to help smooth things out a bit....problem really is the see saw rig...but polishing and a spring would help for sure....
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I lived in Cali for awhile so I understand Cali "law" and Fed "law"....2 different animals.....so are you concerned about Fed 922r or some Cali law? Let me understand that firstly......secondly we have detachable (quick detach) scope rails on all the Saiga's I have here....the converted (no pistol grip) 5.56's and 7.62's have no handling issues whatsoever....lastly....if you want to install a g2 FCG in standard config (with the see saw) I guess it could be done but I think a polishing and a new spring would serve you better.....
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I am confused. ...help an old man out here.....I fail to understand the magazine/pistol grip issue as it relates to what kind of FCG you have.
We have side rail optics on all our Saiga's here....no issue at all....
Pipe Cutting for Muzzle Brake Installation
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
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1. I use a Rigid No. 150 with steel wheels.
2. Yup. Some of mine are less than that and have not budged after a bunch of rounds over the years.
3. The shroud will let loose. It will be free and you will know it instantly. Dont worry about cutting your barrel friend. The shroud you just cut will pop off. Just slide it off and you got virgin Russian barrel