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h0pper

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Posts posted by h0pper

  1. Well I'm gonna assume he's asking about a wooden stock or some such.

     

    I have always been curious for the ones of us with adjustable AR style stocks tho which part actually counts as the stock, the part that goes on or the tube and adapter, or do both have to be US made to count as US made stock.

     

    sorry, yes i was talking about a wood stock in this case.

     

    you hit the nail on the head about which part makes the "stock" that is listed though. most stocks are made from more than one part. most people would count the buttplate (and other parts of a non-wood stock) as part of a complete stock. i know if i ordered a complete stock and it came missing the buttplate and sling attachment i wouldn't be pleased.

     

    seeing as how ive never even heard of anyone being prosecuted for 922r (probably because its almost impossible to prove the origin of non marked parts), and in my case if you removed the buttplate and swivel, i think most people would still consider the wood alone a "stock" even if fully stripped. so im probably good. i just want to get some outside opinions to be on the safe side.

     

    id call a sheriff or the atf if it didnt seem like even they dont have any idea how to define the law. plus, id probably get 6 different answers on six different days.

  2. hello saiga law savvy people!

    ive been searching the forums here (and google). i cant find this subject covered, and im curious.

     

    would installing a foreign buttplate and/or sling swivel on a us made buttstuck disquiliefy the stock as a us made part?

     

    if yes, why is it we can use an original foreign pistol grip screw with a us made grip to help with compliance? thanks.

  3. in regards to an ak47. when 922r refers to "Forearms, handguards" are we talking about just the bottom part the rides under the barrel? or the the top gas tube cover as well? id like to make my own bottom and keep the original (foreign) top. i dont want to do the work and find out too late that they are considered a two piece unit and my US made bottom doesn't count towards compliance. thanks

  4. well that tears it.. if i have to buy more than a bolt and carrier then i might as well buy the whole gun and have "just one more" ak. a fellows got to draw a line in the sand somewhere. thanks for the info stormi

  5. first off id like to apologize to the ak purists here for what im about to say. :wub:

     

    so ive got alot of parts left from my barrel-less romy m65 kit (everything except the under-folding gear). im planning on either slapping a complete yugo front end on it or trying to convert it to 5.56x45.

     

    how hard would it be slap a Romanian 5.56x45 barrel in it and convert from 7.62x39 to 5.56x45?

    im assuming id need a new complete bolt(is this correct?), if so will the new bolt lock up correctly in my 7.62x39 trunnion. would i need a new carrier too?

    will the standard crapco flat and rails work?

    i know you can modify .223 saigas to run AR mags, would the process work roughly the same for the tapco flat?

    any additional info or suggestions? lol whats your favorite color? :D:haha:

  6. is this a "just dont get caught" thing? i mean how is anyone going to know if i go into my garage with my 16" no brake saiga, and come out an hour later with a 14" + welded 2.5 inch brake saiga? i mean i know not to cut it and then drive around for 2 weeks with it in the trunk before i weld on the brake, but removing the barrel for a >30 job seems a tad extreme.

     

     

     

     

    Last thing you want to do is break a BATF regulation and loose your rights to own firearms. Probably not the best idea to ask those kind of questions on a forum that is no doubt being monitored. You get a newby or troll come in here and say "yeah sure go ahead and do it, it's a stupid law and you won't get caught anyway", all of a sudden Saiga12.com becomes a place where it's encouraged to break BATF regs.

     

    i have nothing to hide from the BATF, i plan on doing it right. i just want to make sure this wasnt the kind of thing i would need documents for at a later date showing who did the barrel and when etc, it wont ruin what accuracy the rifle has, and how nessecary it is to recrown.

     

    its a pain to remove the barrel but if thats the law then, thats the law. thats exactly why i asked here. few trolls and plenty of knowledgeable, helpful folks to point out the less obvious ones. also @ PRISONSHANK,

    oh_you.jpg

  7. is this a "just dont get caught" thing? i mean how is anyone going to know if i go into my garage with my 16" no brake saiga, and come out an hour later with a 14" + welded 2.5 inch brake saiga? i mean i know not to cut it and then drive around for 2 weeks with it in the trunk before i weld on the brake, but removing the barrel for a >30 job seems a tad extreme.

  8. im planning on shortening the barrel of a 7.62x39 saiga and welding up a 74 style brake to make the full 16" for legal reasons.

    my question is, will knocking 2 inches off the barrel make the rifle noticeably less accurate in the real world? also seeing as how im welding the brake on is recrowning really necessary? ive heard that as long as the cut is straight and the muzzle is protected it isnt. sounds very suspect to me. thnx h0pp

  9. i converted one of my (7.62x39) saigas to under folder. i used a Romanian parts kit with the milled uf stock. the romy trunion rivet holes do not line up with your saiga's factory holes. i have a welder and was filling the left over factory trigger group holes holes anyway so this was no concern for me. if you have any kind of metal working skills it shouldn't be a problem. it went pretty straight forward really. just measure, drill, slap the new trunnion in, assemble the stock's spring, nuts, bolt, pins etc and you're done.

     

    only real problem i had was the new trunnion wouldn't clear the rivet i put in the rear part of the trigger guard. i just popped out the rivet and plug welded the guard.

  10. i did, and sure enough there were threads!i could see the threads barely at the end of the barrel,under the front sight block shroud.mine is a 7.62&39,made in 3-09.

     

    it looks as though i may hay threads hiding under there too, ill cut it off later and report back. *fingers crossed

     

     

    edit: can anyone recommend a distance to cut back? i was planning on using a wheeled pipe cutter for ease and uniformity (but i do have a dremel). also how do we keep muzzle brakes from unscrewing without the fsb pin? threadlocker? solder? high temp threadlocker? duct tape? wood screws? left over bread bag twist ties? a stern talking-to? i must knoooooow!

  11. finally decided on the under folder

     

    Nice! Details?

    Did you replace the rear trunnion?

     

    yep, i just grabbed a cheap romy m65 parts kit from centerfire and did the swap. now ive got all the parts i need except a receiver flat to build a second fixed stock ak :up: . it just seemed like a better deal than spending $80+ just for the stock and trunnion alone.

     

    after debating it for a bit i just decided to weld the trunnion in. i welded up the extra holes that bugged me, welded the trigger guard to the mag release (waaay more stable now). the hand guard was a drunken after thought as i had already modified the parts kits retainer to bolt in, and planned on carving some blond furniture (im thinking tiger maple), but when i got done with it i liked it and decided to leave it on for a while.

  12. im interested to see how this is going. put a few rounds through (over lol) it yet?

     

    as for raining on your genius, ill leave that to all the real pros round here. i for one applaud the effort of trying new things, especially when those new things make it easier (not to mention safer) for diy'ers to convert the things they own into the things they want. i have the skills and tools to safely split and shape a small length of pipe, but i can also see how some well meaning soul could try it with an upturned circular saw and end up in the ER minus a few fingers, an eye, or worse.

     

    besides why should i go through all the trouble to cut, grind, measure, fine tune, drill, countersink and tap something that i could have just molded into place like play-doh and lightly sanded? if it fails miserably what are you out? the time it takes to clean it out with a dremel? sure it could be argued that "omg what if it fails during the zombie apocalypse!?!?" but whos to say that black pipe or internet "buy it now" guide wont fail after the 6,783 round? how do we progress without trial?

     

    if everything was better the old way we'd all still be shooting bolt actions, bows and arrows, and Kalashnikov would never have seen the room for improvement that brought us the AK in the first place. :haha: my $.02 for what its worth. good luck with the test.

  13. to do the job you will need:

    a fire control group (FCG) that is a trigger, hammer, and disconnect) most places sell fcgs all as one item.

    a pistol grip. if the grip you buy doesnt come with mounting hardware (bolt and nut) you will nee to buy that too.

    a stock.

    like others have said look around at the vendors here, all these items can be bought through them.

     

    optional but recommended items:

    3/16 inch black vinyl plugs http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=43855

    some sort of black high temp (grill or oven) paint or commercial gun finish etc for the bottom of the receiver. (when you remove the plate covering the bottom of your receiver it will likely be unfinished and need rust protection.)

     

    tips:

    follow one of the walkthoughs on this site.

     

    legal junk:

    when you do the conversion it will trigger 922r compliance requirement(no big deal). make sure you replace enough foreign parts with US made ones so you remain legal. more on 922r here http://thegunwiki.com/Gunwiki/BuildSaigaVerifyCompliance

    also you might want to make sure owning a rifle with pistol grip is legal in your state (i know its not in California).

     

    hope this helped, h0pp

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