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About T1gger

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  1. I put it in general just because of the handguns that were in it. 5.45. LCP is nice, it's really snappy when you shoot it and sometimes feels like it may want to flip out of your hand; but it's so convenient to carry. Not a range gun obviously, but works really well for what it is.
  2. Pardon my ignorance, but what's so special about that...even if it just won with the opening $600?? I've got 4 30rd mags that I got for a total of $40 bucks WITH a mag pouch from Centerfire, and I can get that second mag (for a total of 60 rds) in pretty quick. $20 vs. $900+.....hmmmm
  3. Maybe I'll get an answer here. I found a Kobra sight for my AK, but when I lock it up, there is a slight slant/cant to the left, it's not huge, but it is noticeable. When looking into the sight, you can tell that the upside down Chevron sign is slanted a bit. Any suggestions?? Here are some pics of what I mean:
  4. I found a Kobra sight for my AK, but when I lock it up, it was a slight slant/cant to the left, it's not huge, but it is noticeable. When looking into the sight, you can tell that the upside down Chevron sign is slanted a bit. Any suggestions??
  5. Do some of those muzzle brakes on CSS for the 7.62 also work on the other caliber rifles?
  6. Ok, so I know how confusing it can be to start a conversion. However, it's really not that difficult as long as you have all of your information. Here's my shot at offering an area with all of the collective information that you'll need for your conversion. If any of the more experience members care to chime me, please do. I'll add some pictures whenever I get off campus. Compliance (922r): An assault rifle may not have any more than 10 foreign parts that are counted towards compliance. Parts counted for compliance include: Compliance Parts Saiga rifles come with a total of 14 compliance parts. Which means that you'll have to change out at least 4. Adding a pistol grip puts you at 15, so I'd recommend just adding a US grip. Some common US parts that easily count toward compliance include furniture (Buttstock (1), handguard (1), trigger control group (3), magazines (3)). Some of the other parts are a bit more difficult to change out. I personally have a US trigger control group, grip, and changed the floor plates on my magazines. This leaves me with 10 foreign made parts Items needed for conversion (basic): Buttstock Pistol grip, pistol grip nut and screw Trigger control group AND RETAINING PLATE -Size #8-32 1/4" screw for trigger guard Bullet guide with tap and 3/16" drill bit (Dinzag offers these) Something to paint the unfinished area after removing the trigger group (recommend Duplicolor low gloss engine enamel) 3/16" nylon rivet plugs (to plug those holes you now have on the sides of your rifle) 3/16" drill bit for drilling out the rivets on the stock TCG (and something to punch them out) File or dremel for grinding rivets Helps to have a drill press (Notice this leaves you with more than 10 parts, include magazine floor plate for another easy compliance part, or just buy US magazines, or a different US-made lower handguard). Factory parts that can be used for the conversion: Lower handguard and upper gas tube (leaving them stock) There's a spring you need to get from the original trigger group that isn't included in the Tapco set Many use the factory trigger guard and secure it using the #8 screw mentioned earlier. These are really all the items you need for a basic conversion. Here's a VERY good video on converting. Saiga Conversion Now, if you'd like to put the traditional AK handguards, this gets a bit trickier. You can attempt to have the front site block and gas block pushed off the barrel to attach a lower handguard retainer to secure the lower handguard. A much easier alternative is to purchase a bolt-on retainer, like those offered at CSS (made from stock retainers) or from Dinzag (his own design). You can also fashion your own from an existing retainer, although I will say that this can be a difficult task, but definitely do-able. It involves removing some of the top of the retainer and the lever in it and replacing it with a notched #10-32 1" screw (this retainer has to be fitted on with a vise). I'd also recommend notching your barrel if you go this route as this is what is done on traditional AKs. You'll also need a gas tube fore the upper handguard. That's all I've done on mine. Perhaps someone can chime in on muzzle brakes, etc. I'll have more time to look over this later, but I had a few minutes on my hands while I was up here.
  7. After hitting it with some more Tung oil, that wood is much darker and has more of a sheen to it. If I can, I may get my friend to take some pictures with it since he's got a really high end camera.
  8. I just did a ton of work and in the end had to take it off of the new gas tube. The gas piston wasn't going all the way in the tube. I'm about po'ed about doing all of that for nothing. C'est la vie.
  9. Is there anyway to take the spring-type thing on the factory Saiga rifle gas tube and mount it on another gas tube?
  10. Mind sharing how you got that spring off the old tube and onto the new one?
  11. So the gas tube that I put on the Saiga wouldn't allow the lever to close to lock it in. We had to dremel just a bit off and got it to fit, but there is a very slight rattle with slight movement of the tube. It doesn't bother me at all, I just want to make sure that this is not going to harm the rifle in any way. Thanks.
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