docfury
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Posts posted by docfury
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Fix pretty much confirmed. I went back to the range again this weekend, put another 60 rounds down range, flawless ejection. 120 out of 120, im calling it good.
Glad you figured things out... One thing I noticed when you were firing from the bench was the pressure you were putting on the magazine causing it to angle.
This can cause jams, it happens in AR's as well.
Food for thought.
Thats my cousin in the video; i know better
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Alright, this mystery might be solved... maybe.
I took the rifle out this past weekend and put 60 out of 60 down range, no problems. This was in stark contrast to the time I took it out previously, where it failed to eject 3 times in 40 rounds.
Im hoping that its fixed now, after a shooting three boxes flawlessly, but only time will tell.
Here is what I did:
-I lightly sanded then polished the rails in the receiver. I did the same to the bottom of the bolt carrier, as well as the rail slots.
-I cleaned out the bullet chamber on the gun (I had never done this before). I used a power drill and a bronze brush, got it sparkling.
-I had previously taken the bolt apart and cleaned it thoroughly, paying close attention to the extractor.
-I removed a nut and bolt on the underside of the hammer that I had used to install the trigger guard. I discovered that the hammer was making contact with the nut, and it was quite visible as the nut had become misshaped from the hammer hitting it and there were metal shavings on the backside of the hammer. I shaved down the small bolt to make it as small as possible and still fit inside the receiver, and locked in place with loctite.
I really think it might have been that trigger guard nut sitting too high and it was making contact with the hammer when the hammer was being slammed down by the carrier. I think this little bit of contact could have thrown the entire rhythm of the gun off. If the bolt carrier was forced slightly more upward than usual, this could create friction along the rails and slow down the carrier, thus the failure to eject.
So a word to the wise, if you buy one of these:
http://store.carolin...uard-DIY/Detail
It might be advisable to shave the nut and bolt down that sit under your trigger (I have a tapco trigger installed, which might make a difference).
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Here is an update. I cleaned out the gas system as best I could. I got a paper clip and verified that the gas port in the barrel was open, and I could see the paper clip sticking out inside the barrel. I lubed all the rails, bolt, and bolt carrier, with Hoppes lubricating oil. I fired 120 rounds and had 1 FTE on the 81st round. I checked my rails after shooting they were still slightly moist, which means my lubrication had not burned off. I shot Uly white box FMJ 20 rounds, no problems. 80 rounds brown bear FMJ, and 20 rounds Wolf black box HP. The jam occurred with Brown Bear, so I have now ruled out it being ammo related. The cause of the problem might be the FCG, but im squeamish about putting in the Russian hammer due to parts count. Would it be worth a shot to put some gun grease on the hammer to help the bolt carrier glide over it? Or would that cause a build up in the firing pin channel?
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Ok, Ill try to respond to as many questions as possible.
1) When did you first notice this happening? Probably after I did the conversion. The FCG I put in was a Tapco G2 from Dinzag I believe that had the hammer pre shaved and polished (so no break in period, smooth off the bat). Before doing the conversion the Saiga ran nearly flawless with Surefire magazines or the factory 10 rounder. I would get the occasional hiccup (double feed)from Master Molder mags that I had modified (shaved mag tab).
Shot at 2011-07-19
2) Does the bolt carrier slide back easily? Well, there is a some resistance when the hammer is down, but when the hammer is up yeah it takes a good pull to get the hammer flattened out. Its hard to explain resistance in the written word... I could make a quick vid showing the bolt assembly at work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDJQJXo0QXM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gAOr3mLnh7g
3) No it doesnt always happen at the same point in the magazine. Sometimes its in the middle of a mag, or at the end.
4)I dont use a buffer. I will try to apply some grease to the rails. I have been using Hoppes #9 Lubricating oil for the rails, or whatever gun oil I have on hand.
5) Is the nub on the rail chipped? It doesnt appear to be:
Shot at 2011-07-19
I have probably close to 1k rounds through the gun, and very few hiccups like ive explained. Its just when it happens it bugs the shit outta me because I want the almighty indestructible AK-47 that I dont have to clean or baby (like my AR-15).
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Ive been having failure to eject problems with my converted Saiga 7.62, and im not sure what the problem is. I get one FTE every 40-60 rounds, with the partially ejected case being pinned between the bolt carrier and the receiver. It never double feeds or loads another round into the chamber, and it easily cleared by pulling the bolt to the rear, allowing the case to fall, and then releasing the bolt and charging another round.
I know its hard to diagnose a gun problem over a forum, but I was curious if anyone knew of the most common reasons for failure to eject? (Stovepipe)
Is it possible that my FTEs are being caused by magazine angle? When I shaved down the magazine locking tab I feared I took off a little too much, and now I have some wobble side to side with my surplus steel mags.
Things I have done to try and fix the situation: Stripped down the bolt completely and gave it a good cleaning, paying extra attention to the extractor (it was filthy, id never taken it down). Cleaned out the gas tube with a shotgun brush, which was also filthy, but I did not try to clean the gas port. I can see some carbon buildup near the gas port, but it is not obstructing it.
I wonder if it might be ammo related, because it usually happens when shooting Ulyanovsk. Has anyone known Uly to loaded lightly? If the round was loaded without enough powder, that could cause the bolt carrier not to cycle fully, ejecting the shell casing but coming back forward under spring tension and pinning the round between the carrier and the receiver before it has a chance to fly out.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I want a gun I can depend on, and 1 FTE in 80 rounds might not seem huge, but if that happened when it counted, it could cost me my life.
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I bought 5 mags, one is too fat to fit in the gun, one is thin and wobbles, and the others are inbetween (one is just right). They seem to be in pretty good shape very little rust (only a spot or two). Will try to field test them this weekend.
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Thanks for the tip, I jump in it.
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re: topic
Thats what she said.
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Well according to General Westmoreland in his guide on partisan fighting, he said using AK-47s and SKSs as primary weapons was fine, but that you should be familiar with the M-16/M-4 because most likely, due to the large volume of these weapons in country, youll end up using one eventually.
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Just finished reading the article, dont know if I agree that US forces are out gunned in Afghanistan. I love my AK, but if I wanted to reach out and touch someone reliably, in the heat of combat, and at 300+ meters, id take an M4 any day of the week.
I thought it was interesting that the army is going back to using M14's due to it being a 7.62 (.308).
And what the deuce? They cancel the XM8 for production, but give the go ahead for this ?
http://world.guns.ru/grenade/gl13-e.htm
Oh, and a quick question, doesnt the Marine corps still use the standard M16 in combat? Full size ? (long barrel)
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Yeah, I know it sounds stupid, but I basically re-purchased the same grip with different holes. So yeah basically what you said, its the same grip just with different holes.
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Ok, it is possible, but a pain in the ass. When you do the conversion you will notice that the holes in your pistol grip do not line up with the hole in your rifle. So, what I did was use the rearmost hole and attach the pistol grip to the old trigger slot using a spare nut and bolt I had laying around, with a washer to increase grab area. This option works, but I had reservations about it, since the grip had a little play in it to the left and right.
In the end I threw down for a new pistol grip and bought a warsaw length buttstock.
Ive read from other guys on here that you can drill a new hole in the pistol grip and get it to work that way, but I couldnt see that working when I did it myself.
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1) Yeah id recommend getting at the very least a bipod to sight your rifle in, but one of those caldwell vices would work nicely.
2) Good job on getting the sight adjustment tool, which hopefully after you have it sighted in, you will never need again. I found when adjusting my sight that the factory notch cut into my front sight post was almost where it needed to be, just a slight adjustment. My TAPCO tool came with instructions, so I followed those, which is basically; Raise the front sight, lower point of impact, lower front sight, raise point of impact. Move drum to the left, move shots to the left, move drum right, move shots right (if looking down sight, if facing sight do reverse).
3)Rear sight; sight in at 25 yards/meters at the 100 yards/meters setting. This will establish your "battle zero" and you slide the sight all the way back. You should hit the bullseye at 25 and 100 yards on this setting, shoot a little high at 50 and be "minute of man" up to 300 yards.
4) As far as targets go, personal preference, I enjoy splash targets because they are easier to see at long distances (dirty bird, shoot-n-see)
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Oh so it was you who posted this youtube video then?
*dont watch if you are squeamish*
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First id just like to say that this isnt a scientific test, i thought id throw together some video I have to show people how the Tapco Ak-74 brake compares to no brake at all. Its not scientific because the videos were not shot at the same time in a more controlled environment, and the fact that in my no-brake video I have the T6 stock set, which will affect handling.
Im posting this for all of the people who wonder a few things:
1) How does the T6 Stockset handle?
2) Does the Tapco AK-74 brake reduce muzzle climb/flip?
Ill let the video speak for itself:
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Dig it.
I suspect he drilled some holes in the handguard and mounted the rail, but thats just my guess. /sarcasm off
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Gosh, this will be the second time I post a Nutnfancy video, its going to start looking like im a nutnfancy whore:
http://www.youtube.com/user/nutnfancy#p/u/0/8Fk84KLiaa4
Nutnfancy loves the mini-14, but its no secret hes a big Ruger fan. He also loves the Arsenal Saigas. Just throwing the video out for reference on its abilities, he makes contact with steel at 175 yards fairly reliably.
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What it probably doesnt do as well as a "genuine" ak-74 brake is push the muzzle back to the left, because the gas ports are along the centerline and not slightly canted to the right (to kick it down and left).
Has anyone considered drilling in a third gas port that would give it that kick to the left?
Ive thought about it, but honestly I dont know if it would really do me any good. Its satisfactory the way it is right now, but thats just my opinion (having never compared it to another brake type).
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Yeah I too can testify that the Tapco Ak-74 brake is threaded a full inch. I can also say that it does help to reduce my muzzle flip, probably a 50-60% reduction over no brake. Not a complete waste of money. What it probably doesnt do as well as a "genuine" ak-74 brake is push the muzzle back to the left, because the gas ports are along the centerline and not slightly canted to the right (to kick it down and left).
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If you watch the video, take a look at the target at 40:04, in the X and 9 rings. Are those hits rounds that tumbled and keyholed? Ballistics wise, I wouldn't think a 5.56 or a 7.62x39 round would tumble in the 100 yard range. I didnt think they started to tumble until after 200 or 300 meters.
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Love em or hate em, Nutnfancy has a new video of him running the SGL-20 (which he recently purchased after being very impressed with Arsenal at the 2010 SHOT! show).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BllDxgSNZRo
Fast forward to min 32 of the video to see him do a vehicle exit and engage insurgents at 100 yards. Not bad groups for doing it fast and under pressure.
Note: Nutnfancy doesnt claim to be a tactical guru, hes just doing testing on his gear loadout and running scenarios. Its pretty fun to watch (and makes me wish I had a desert to go run around in).
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After action report:
Everything went well at the range today with the conversion, but I ran into a few hiccups:
1. One of my Thermold Master Molder magazines gave me a double feed. Which is interesting... its the second time thats done that to me. I think the follower is tilting and allowing two rounds to hop up (last two in the mag).
2. One of my surefire magazines front lip broke. This is the third such surefire magazine to do so. I broke two last winter and I got two replacement ones. The message I got from the factory last year was that they had a bad batch of mags. I dont know though, it seems when I get the mags in below 32 degree weather, they get brittle, and when the bolt hold open catches, it puts pressure on the front of mag, and chips it. Which sucks... the mag still locks in though, and might still be useable... but I will probably end up sending it back to Surefire.
My cheapo korean steel mag worked flawlessly, so we know that feed ramp is doing its job.
Sounds like its time to shop around for steel mags.
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I wanted to actually make a forum account on this board because ive been browsing this forum for over a year now, thumbing through all of the great information that is on this board.
I bought a Saiga 7.62x39 last November (gee I wonder why) at a gun show that was in town. I then proceeded to buy the Tapco T6 stock set for the saiga. This configuration by all means is NOT a bad way to go, especially if you are on a budget (or have a wife that doesn't like you spending a lot of dough). I found the design to be fairly solid, very pointable and much preferred over the factory configuration. But after awhile you get this itch... that itch that says, "this thing could be better... I could use a better trigger, the one I have works well, but... it could be better... and id like to use military surplus magazines... and have reliable feeding from my thermold mags (to be fair, out of the 200 or so shots i put through those mags, I only had 1 jam without a feed ramp). The rifle kicks ups like a mule making follow up shots difficult, and in a SHTF moment youll want to put lead down range fast and accurate.."
So the first stop on my quest to full conversion was the muzzle brake. I got the rental kit from Dinzag, who btw, provides a great service to his country for doing so, in my humble opinion, and bought an AK-74 style brake. I couldnt find a gunsmith anywhere in town that would do this for me. This job was a challenge, but I had my father help me out and we were able to get the job done. Thinking back on it all, this was the most difficult part of the conversion. It took the most brute strength.
After the 74 style brake was on, I had a pretty decent rifle on my hands, with less muzzle flip, but... it could be better...
So after several months of saving my pennies I went balls out and bought the G2 trigger group from Dinzag, and the bullet guide kit. I also bought the original style AK butt stock, to give it the authentic AK look and feel. The whole process of the conversion was a little challenging, but knowing what I know now, I know I could go back and do it again without much trouble. There were a few things I had to work through, and I had to improvise in a couple areas, but I think the finished product speaks for itself.
As you can see I kept the grip from the Tapco intrafuse set, which, as I read on this forum, could be used in the conversion. HOWEVER. Id like to note that the grip does not line up with the pistol grip nut hole. I had to use the old trigger slot and put a bolt, nut and washer on there. It holds really solid, but there is a slight bit of play to the left and right if I push it really hard. So, just letting the people that have the intrafuse stock set out there, who are thinking of converting know, that it might not be worth it to purchase a standard AK grip nut and screw (if you want to keep the SAW style grip)
If any of you guys out there know of a way to correct that let me know, but I couldn't see a way to use the existing holes in the grip to line it up with the grip nut on the receiver. I suppose I could have drilled a hole in the plastic of the grip to get it to line up right, but, this seemed like a much easier solution.
Another note! If you do what I did with the grip, and you want to install the standard butt stock (made by tapco) I had to shave off about 1/2 inch of the insert of buttstock to get it to fit inside (not a big deal, my old man had a grind wheel). The M4 style intrafuse stock fit inside no problems, didnt need to grind that.
I have NO regrets about doing the conversion, and I do like it more than the intrafuse configuration, it gives you many more options. If you are thinking about doing it, DO IT! If I can do it you can do it! I have a degree in history for petes sake, and I havent built many things with my hands in my life (except for computers). With the right tools the conversion process will go very smoothly, without them, you might struggle a little. I cant imagine trying to do all of this with hand tools. The one thing id recommend highly is buying some grind bits for a power drill, it made taking down all of those rivets really easy, they were about $3 a pop at Lowes/Home Depot.
Thanks again Saiga12 forum, I might pop back on here and give you a range report and let you know how its functioning, and if I run into any problems.
30rd mags cumbersome
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
Posted
Its probably more advantageous to use the 20 rounders you are talking about, but if you do happen to have a 30 in the gun and have to do prone shooting, you can lay the gun almost flat and use the charging handle as an aiming device (or so says former Spetsnaz Sonny Puzikas).