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Tarheel72

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Posts posted by Tarheel72

  1. Well the short answer to your question is yes.  If you check out the vendor section you will see DPH.  They used to make one and you can find several threads about it, including this one: http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/37472-is-this-how-the-clip-on-hider-is-supposed-to-fit/.  There is a lot of discussion around this adaptor.  As best I can determine there were some defective ones produced that had to be replaced.  And also they do not work with a muzzle brake, only flash supressors, due to the pressues that can build up.  The adaptor clips onto the barrel and the threads do not extend 360 degrees.  They were going to make a two piece one that would clamp on and completely encircle the barrel but they were never able to do it in a cost effective manner.  So I don't think they make any of them anymore.

     

    But I can tell you that it does work.  I found one for sale and bought it from another forum member several years ago.  I got the clip on adaptor and the phantom flash supressor and have had zero problems with it.  I used a dowel and confirmed that the Phantom was lined up with the barrel so there was no interference with the bullet.  And I check it often to be sure it remains tightly screwed on, but so far it has never been loose.  In short it has worked for me.

     

    If you can find one for sale it might be worth trying out.  I paid $50 for mine and so far it is worth it to me.  YMMV.

     

    DSC_0143.jpg

    • Like 1
  2. Replacing the trigger group is not that hard. Just get a G2 and a suitable pistol grip/butt stock and go for it. You will have some holes to fill in the receiver, but no rivets are required. You can pick up plugs at Lowe's that pop right in and look factory. Plenty of videos and threads on here to help.

     

    Now that bullet guide is another matter. i would say for 85% of the people that try that, it goes fine. But for some of us it just will not work. I tried long and hard to drill out my receiver and finally gave up. I broke several carbide and other drill bits, and only made a small dimple in the receiver. If I ever get around to it I will take it to a machine shop, as I do not own a drill press. Otherwise, I have an unused bullet guide for now. Fortunately I do not own any surplus mags, just the expensive Saiga specific ones.

  3. No go. I broke the CSS drill bit and two other cobalt bits that I got. I have a nice dimple but it will not go beyond that. I used both a cordless hand drill and a corded one, on low and high speed, and the bit would not grab and drill out the hole. I am going to quit at this point. I already invested in lock tight, cutting oil, two drill bits, a tap wrench and the kit. Enough already. Can I just JB Weld it in there?

  4. Well I can sympathize with Dirge. I am not a complete idiot and I had no trouble at all with the FCG/pistol grip conversion. But I could not get a hole in the trunion for the bullet guide. I used the drill that came in the kit I got from CSS as well as a brand new cobalt drill bit. I used cutting oil. I used both a multispeed cordless B&D drill and a good old fashioned plug in wall drill. I tried slow and high speeds. All I accomplished was two broken bits and a small nice centered dimple. I am going to give up and just JB weld it in I think. I am not interested in getting a drill press. So far I have spent money on cutting oil, lock tight, drill bits, a tap set and wasted several hours of time. I would just forget it if I had not already purchased the bullet guide and some non Surefire mags.

  5. Did anyone using a hand held drill have the problem that I am having of the drill not being able to line up straight due to the chuck not clearing the top of the AK? I do not have drill press but read where others used a hand held drill so I did not anticipate this issue. I have a standard Black and Decker hand held and would be happy to use it if I could. Suggestions are appreciated.

  6. I am having trouble getting the drill bit I got from CSS with my bullet guide kit. It made a nice dimple but it will not go further. I thought it was cobalt, was I wrong? I guess I will have to go to Lowe's and get another drill bit. What size is it again?

     

    I am also not able to use my hand drill, the chuck will not pass the receiver if the drill is lined up straight. I am using my dremil tool. Any reason that will not work? The drill bit seems to turn fine and the end is even discoloring from heat, so I assume it is just not getting the job done and the problem is not the Drimel tool.

     

    Thanks

  7. I don't think you can get the DPH anymore. He is supposed to be making a new model but that was months ago. Check his thread in the vendor section for updates. I got mine from a forum member who did not use it, he cut and threaded his AK instead. Here is what mine looks like and it does indeed perform well and was a snap to install. I do not want to go to the trouble of cutting on my AK, even if it is threaded.

     

    DSC_0143.jpg

  8. imarangemaster really liked the Tapco Saiga Intrafuse Handguard. You can use all the rails how you want to. It looks to be a flexible handguard in relation to light, bipod, foregrip, etc.

     

     

    Plus one for the Tapco. It is cheap, reliable, easy to install, and fulfills all of your requirements.

  9. I have gotten recent emails for Atlantic Firearms and Mississippi Auto advertising Saiga's and AK's for sale. Carolina Shooters seems to always have some as well. Personally we have plenty at local gun stores and shows but maybe some parts of the country are not as fortunate. I do not think there is a general shortage right now.

  10. I have used Brown and Silver Bear, GT, Uly and Wolf and I have the best luck with lacquer coated Brown Bear FMJ and the zinc plated Silver Bear both FMJ and SP. The Silver Bear doesn't leave your hands as dirty and maybe, just maybe, chambers a little cleaner. But so far the Bears work best for me. I plan to use the SP on hog hunts. I have a few thousand rounds of the Bears in long term storage, in spam cans or ammo cans. I will use them to plunk zombies when the time comes. To me, in an AK, this ammo is as good as any and way cheaper than the brand name American ammo. I can get tight groupings at 100 yards and that is all I ask from this rifle.

    • Like 1
  11. At the gunshow today they had Golden Tiger FMJ for $118/500 rounds and Tula FMJ $109/500 rounds but they also charged tax. I found good online prices at CTD but since I live in Texas I have to pay tax there as well. Brown Bear is $97/500 and Silver Bear is $108/500, both FMJ. I really wanted SP and found the best prices for 500 rounds of Silver Bear SP at SGAmmo ($115 plus shipping of $14) and Sportsmans Guide ($129, free shipping). I went with Sprotsmans Guide since I had a few other things I wanted to get from them.

     

    BTW, use the coupon code SH398 to get free shipping at Sportsmans Guide on all orders over $99, and the code SG1465 to get $15 off orders of $150 or more.

    • Like 2
  12. Mine weighs less than three pounds with optics, tach light and 30 rounds. When I pick it up. However, it defies the laws of physics and within five minutes it has gained several pounds, even as I shoot rounds. After ten minutes it weighs in at a heafty 12 pounds at least. If I carry it for an hour, it weighs 25 pounds, I swear.

  13. I had it happen one time, after I did a conversion with a Tapco G2 trigger. The first time I shot it after the conversion, I had one shoulder fired bump fire. Surprised the hell out of me. I let a friend fire off a few rounds and he commented on how touchy the trigger was but I did not notice that. He was shooting something entirely different at the time, so maybe it was a much lighter pull than he was used to. He never had a bump fire, and it has not happened to me since, but I have only put about 500 round through it so far.

  14. Well, not to be argumentative but there are quite a few of us who like it. I happen to be in that camp. There are several ways to do the install and you can find various videos and instruction the Internet. I used the fishing line/dental floss method. I tried the method shown in the CSS video but for the life of me could never get it to work. It looked simple enough but after about 10 minutes I gave up and went the other route and was done in 2 minutes. It also helps if the parts come pre-ground for the BHO, which the CSS kit that I got came that way. So if I had not used the BHO I would have had to use a spacer anyway.

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