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magsite20 last won the day on February 4 2015

magsite20 had the most liked content!

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About magsite20

  • Rank
    the Dr. is out

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  • Location
    Destin, Florida
  • Interests
    Tool and Die Builds, Plastic Injection Molding
  1. At long last here's my official new 1911. Well it's done started with a 3.75 lb. trigger I re-arched (straightened it out some) the sear spring don't know where it's at now but it's better. Last thing is got it carekoted black and dark gray actually looks better than the photo. I just went with cerakote on a build (this is my 1st time with the stuff) but a lot of that decision was based just on cost. A guy I work with brother opened a shop, needed some OJT, and was willing to do it for me for $40.00. As with everything cost has a cost, I had remove the coating from some of the rail area of th
  2. verified the trigger pull this weekend with a real trigger gauge 60 oz / 3.75 lbs, so the water gauge is pretty close when you add the weight of the jug at .15 lbs the total would have been 60.4 oz / 3.775.
  3. During the build I bought an $8.00 Remington hammer and a $48.00 STI hammer. While playing around with the set up I felt like I was getting a slightly better trigger pull with the cheaper Remington hammer but didn't have scale to measure it. I really wanted to know for sure if I was right so today I took a piece of wire bent it to loop the trigger, put a bend in it to hold a jug, and a 1 gallon water so I could test the set up. I did the STI hammer 1st and marked the jug at the water level were the trigger broke. Then I put the put the Remington hammer in and repeated the test. The Remington h
  4. yep the staking tool is on order. my buddy Ed is still setting up his new shop and thought he had one but if he had it he lost it in the move. there aren't any local smiths around me close that I would trust with a Nerf gun let alone something I've got time and money in plus they don't have the tool either. one guy said he could clamp it in his vice with leather jaws and hit it with a bent punch for $35.00, I said thanks but no.
  5. Thanks. Let me make a note here 1st 1911 parts use to be cheaper to buy and 2nd the slide and receiver did not want to just fall together a lot of blue dykem, with tap the slide on and off, file some, and repeat, and repeat went in to getting these parts to meet as a working unit. While for a true bullseye build I should have gone with a different barrel I picked up the semi drop in Storm Lake one at a bargain price with the bushing and link and it fit beautifully. I also remembered the last time I did a barrel fitting and decided to save myself the time, energy, and possible disappointme
  6. Shot of an old National Match Gun from the 60s. As to why build a gun that you can’t even get into a holster with that front sight: In the 60s I was at a shooting range with my stepfather Richard who was career Army (I'm retired Air Force) shooting his new Ruger Blackhawk when a friend of his showed up to get in some practice with his 45. While Richard was a hell of a helicopter pilot he was not much with a pistol, his friend shot competition and with the 1911 he was using could pretty much make one hole in the center of the target. Later I started shooting matches and at best am was mediocre
  7. I was sitting around feeling old and tired so I decided to do what may well be my last 1911 build. Started with stainless Foster 1911 Government size receiver in 45 ACP for $100.00 (will be $145.00 by the time it gets to me with shipping and FFL fees). Next came a new in the box IMI NM7791435 slide with a shark fin front sight that started at $99.00 (like the world was going to let me have it for that) went at $180.00 or $191.XX with shipping a CC fees. So now I have the base 1911 FIMI (Foster Israel Military Industries's). Then a whole big pile of parts and cost: Some interesti
  8. yeah maybe it just shocked me from a "205.00" price how much more the cost added up to get the gun in hand and then get a what I think is a shootable gun all added up to add about $114.50 to the price. that kind of put the price at new 38 Taurus price range, not 40+ year old price range.
  9. I got'r done. put back together, better trigger, and she runs, just had a big beer to celebrate my victory. The trigger is now no worse than most the K frames I've had and maybe better than some. The rotation hand being part of the side plate with a spring and plunger kind of spooked me for a minute but a dab of grease and it stayed in place to get put back in. note I've tied up more in this gun than planned from a $205.00 buy on gunbroker, adding $30.00 for shipping, then my local ffl that I've been using raised their charge from $25.00 (would have put me at $260.00 about were I figured I b
  10. Now that is funny to read on a Saiga related site that a gun looks "Crude". Actually the fit and finish is pretty good of course the gun at over 40 years old has some spots and dings but for a $205.00 gun I'm more than happy with the looks. Its been shot but not much so there isn't a lot of wear on it. The trigger is very oh crapo are you kidding me heavy in both double and single action. I don't have a trigger scale but I wouldn't be shocked to find even in single action it's 10 pounds or more and double action could be pushing over 20. When the new springs get here I'll pop the side pla
  11. Picked up a nice old 38 spl in the form of an early Taurus 80. This one is from the early 70s in the style of a S&W 5 screw and differs from the later models of the 80 with having the firing pin in the hammer not frame mounted, it also has a strain screw for the coiled mainspring. The only rust I found on the gun is on the left side near the muzzle. At this point this gun is nearly impossible to shoot with the trigger pull but I've ordered some Wolff springs to hopefully correct that. The gun also has serrations in the cylinder flutes kind of like some of the S&W 27 had.
  12. re profiled the bottom of the bolt some, it helped the gun load a loaded mag on a closed bolt quite a bit. a magwell would be better but for now I'm going on the cheap side of mods to these guns.
  13. most common stupid thing I see at the range or for that matter at the store is the wrong ammo for the gun being bought and they just don't have a clue. Locally you can't return ammo so if you buy the wrong stuff you're screwed. 38 Super and 38 Special, 22 LR and 22 Mag are not interchangeable, 9mm Kurtz and 9mm Luger aren't the same any more than 9mm Largo and 9mm Luger. 30-40 isn't a magnum load for a 30-30. 7.62-54R won't work in a 7.62 NATO gun. Oh yeah ACP does not stand for Any Colt Pistol.
  14. “Some people think I’m an expert.” “I saw it done in a movie.” “I don’t think it’s suppose to do that.” “Watch me make her jump.” and the guy trying to figure out why 38 Super ammo didn't work in his 38 Special revolver.
  15. people using speed loader tubes in tube guns are in open class too. I've shot with some people who could do hand shotgun loads great but they still couldn't compete fairly against a box fed gun or a tube speed loader it's just a different class. also there is a 9 round limit at the start on other classes so with a big enough mag or a drum you could possibly shoot a stage with no reloads at all. https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=A0LEVvT5A6lX1wYAks4nnIlQ?p=two+up+shotgun+loads&fr=yhs-mozilla-003&fr2=piv-web&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-003#id=41&vid=7a405
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