gundam83
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Posts posted by gundam83
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Hmm that's unfortunate. I have a MI rail on mines as well and haven't had a chance to test it out. Anybody else see similar results with their accuracy after installing the rail?
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It's a fun little gun (well until the extractor blew out on mines). Unfortunately they stopped handing out free magazines with their warranty service
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Modern for me. 1. Not a big fan of wood. 2. I like all my guns to be battle-ready.
I want to be able to pick up the gun and know full well that it'll have the tools equipped to give me that extra advantage. Whether that be a red dot for quick target acquisition, a light for positive target identification, or a handstop to ensure that my grip is in the same spot every single time. Yes my AK looks mall-ninja'd out, but I didn't equip it for looks. Everything on my gun has a valid function, and much like a CCW, it's better to have it and not use it, then not have it when you really need it. I don't buy guns to frame them up on a wall. I don't collect guns like they were stamps or rare baseball cards. I buy guns to use, and use hard.
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You mean you have to clean your AK ?
Never heard of such a thing !!!!!
This. Isn't that the main reason to get an AK in the first place
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Looks awesome. Even thought I hear the KX3's weigh a ton, I've always liked the way they look.
Which is exactly the reason I took it off my AR Pistol. Damn thing weighed about as much as the entire barrel.
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Definitely dig the more modern look of the Ace front sight.
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KVAR also sells an intermediate length stock which is 10". It's half way between the NATO and Warsaw lengths.
Interesting. I think I would have gotten that if I knew of it's existence.
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Update on my disaster. Acetone helped remove some of the gunk but it was still pretty caked on. My roomate had a thread cleaning tool and after a few wacks with that, it cleaned up pretty well. I then took a crush washer that I bought from a local auto store and saw that even though it was supposed to be 14mm, it did not fit freely over the threads like crush washers I'm used to (AR15's) . So I threaded it on and that helped clear out a lot of the gunk. I was finally able to thread the muzzle device on, and while it was a tight fit, it went on without a hitch.
Now I just need to take care of the bulletguide. My uncle can weld, but before I take my gun to him, is there anything I can use to fill in the two holes that would still allow me to weld the bullet guide in place?
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For the glue, have you tried to scrub it off? Acetone works wonders with the aid of the rough side of a sponge.
For the pipe cutter, how far do you think you cut into the barrel? I can't really make out any indentation in your pics, but that could be due to my shitty 10 year+ monitor.
It's not your monitor, the pictures suck. I snapped real quick before heading off to work. I will get some better pics tonight. I haven't tried any solvents on the threads yet, but plan to. The residue was rock hard which worried me, but I think if i let it soak for a little bit it'll be easier to work with.
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My main concern is that I may have chopped into the barrel with the pipecutter. How far in can I get away with where it may be a problem? I know with AR15 barrels, you can reprofile them down about a 1/10th of an inch, but I know nothing about aks. I apologize for the bad pics, I will try to get better ones.
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I am all thumbs when it comes to gunsmithing, but since everyone was saying how easy it is to install the bullet guide and thread the factory barrel on my x39, I'd figure I'd give it a shot. Plus the only shop that works on saigas around here have an 8 week waiting period (not to mention they wanted a few hundred just to convert the front end to accept AK furniture
Anyways I started with the bullet guide. Punched a hole for the drill bit, but it must've wandered out because by the time I had broke through the trunnion, I noticed that it was way off (to the right, towards the barrel). I said screw it and decided to tap it anyways and enlarge the hole on the bullet guide. In the middle of tapping, the tap broke off inside the hole. At this point I decided to drill a new hole closer to the magazine, and then file away at the guide until it is flush on the trunnion. Well the cobalt bit was probably dulled out because it wasn't making a dent. I decided to try one of my other drill bits and of course that managed to snap off inside the trunnion as well. So now I'm completely out of spots to drill. Am I destined for JB Weld? Or is there something stronger I can use? Devcon epoxy perhaps?
On to my next failure...I wanted to cut the barrel shroud in front of the front sight off so that I could thread the barrel. Used a pipe cutter, and was able to cut it without much incident. Then I noticed that the shroud would not come off, it was just spinning in place. Took a dremel to it, and ended up cutting a huge chunk of it off before I was able to pry it off. That's when I noticed my barrel was threaded! Unfortunately the threads appeared to be serverely gunked up from some sort of adhesive from the factory. Not to mention I had put some accidental cuts across the threads from poor dremel skills. I'm also afraid that I may cut the actual barrel with the pipecutter. Although it's kind of hard to see. The barrel shroud cut goes well beyond the threads, although I did stop as soon as the shroud was free spinning. Is the barrel notched before the threads start? Or am I fubared?
So what do you guys think? Well with bullet guide, it looks like i have no choice but to epoxy it on, but what about the barrel? Can the threads be cleaned up if I used a threading die? Will the accidental dremel cuts effect the mounting of a muzzle brake? Did I put the notch in the barrel or did I just happen to cut exactly at the point of a factory notch? Am I better off just lopping the whole damn front off, get it professionally threaded and pin and weld a long muzzle brake on to get it back to 16"?
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It doesn't slip on loosely. I still have to force it in. I'm not worried snout the tightness because the tapco stock was wobbly as fuck and it's solid once you put the screws to it
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I dont have the screws from the stock saiga stock since I bought the gun second hand and it came with tapco collapsible stock. There definately needed to be some dremeling because of the hump near the tang on my receiver butts up against the squared up butt stock
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I probably should have done my homework, but I just received a KVAR stock and had to do a considerable amount of dremeling and shaving to fit into my converted Saiga receiver. That part is done, but now I just realized that there are no screws that came with the darn thing. I have an event coming up within the week, so I can't risk ordering some screws over the internet. Can I get the correct screws locally? What type and size are they?
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Would Rockett be a good choice? I think it's similar to loctite blue in terms of strength, but has a temp limit of 1600 degrees
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I have a Jtac47 comp that I was going to use with my threaded saiga in 7.62x39. However I don't have a retaining pin in my front sight block. Is there any way I can attach the comp without worrying about it backing out? Trying to find a crush washer for the AK47 has been unsuccessful.
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I've recently chiseled the gas tube shroud off of the factory saiga gas tube so I can install my Midwest Industries USPALMS cowitness rail system. The factory shroud was just a hair thick enough to keep the top cover from bolting onto the lower railed handguard. So now I have a somewhat ugly gas tube that could use a little grinding to look aesthetically pleasing again. I'm just worried that the metal may be too thin, and that putting a grinder to it may weaken it. What are your guys' thoughts?
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Looking to buy a Kvar / Aresenal fixed stock in black (warsaw length preferably)
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does this cowitness?
Not as shown, but there is a new AK-specific model with a US PALMS top cover that allows an Aimpoint Micro to sit lower, and thus allow it to cowitness. That's why I was wondering if the AK47 version can mount up to an unconverted saiga. Plus I like the shorter length of the AK one for a slight weight advantage (every ounce counts when it's towards the muzzle end of the gun)
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I haven't seen one either but I agree with your observation. Looks like it bolts onto the lower portion.
OK i just found this. Not sure if we are allowed to link to other sites so I"ll just post a snippet from weapon evolution forum:
"Installation of the rail is straight forward, there are two primary components, which are the upper and lower handguard. There is also a locking piece, and a few sets of screws. The only tools needed are your brain, and the allenwrenches that come with the handguards.For people who are familiar with the AK, removal is as straight forward as field stripping the weapon, flipping the lever to pull off the lower handguard, and rotating out the upper handguard piece. If you are like me, who spends more time with the M4 platform, it will take a few extra minutes as you remember the top handguard is rotated out. I'll be doing a installation writeup at a later date to show how simple this really is.
After pulling it apart, the bottom rail goes on, clamps to the barrel, and after you slip the gas tube back in, the upper rail pops on and is secured with a few screws, and you are done.
Rail lockup is tight, and there is zero movement. The rail is secured to the barrel, and mounting optics, lasers, lights, VFGs or sling mounts all end up being very straight forward. The rails are cut to the standard 1913 spec, so most any railed accessory should mount without a problem."
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I'm looking at my friend's AK74 from Lancaster and at my Saiga gas tube and the only difference I see is the retainer to hold the upper handguard on. Although I haven't seen the MI handguard in person, from pictures on the internet, it kind of looks like the rail doesn't actually make contact with that upper retainer. So can I just skip replacing my gas tube with an AK one? With that said, will I even need the lower handguard retainer? How does the midwest rail attach? I can't find any installation instructions
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Easiest and cheapest route is to buy a $10.00 tubing cutter and cut the shroud. You may or may not have factory threads. If not, you'll then need to either buy or rent a 14x1LH threading die kit. Or, you can cut your current front sight block off and install a Bulgarian 24x1.5mm front sight block. You can get the factory sight block off with a dremel tool, cutting it down the sides, then you can use a rubber mallet and a sledge hammer to pound the new one on if you don't have a press. the cheapest Bulgarian FSB ive seen is the one Classy Kalashnikov used from AKPartskits.com for $25.00, but you'd have to drill it for the pins and install a plunger pin and spring and use your factory front sight block drum and post in it. Or look around on other forums at people selling Bulgarian front sight blocks. I got one recently with everything ready to install for $45.00 shipped and I'm going to be adding a '74 type brake to it soon.
Pics from my gallery:
How many blades did you have to use before you cut through it? If I go down this route, I wanna make sure I have all the proper equipment.
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If your not threaded I suggest replacing the FSB with a 24mm threaded FSB.
Any suggestions on one? I've seen a bunch of different ones and I'm not sure what I should be looking at.
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I'm interested in getting either the PWS Jtac or a quality US made AK74 break (a good one, not a $15 Tapco). What would be the easiest and/or cheapest method of making this happen? On an unreleated note, can I use the gas tube off of an AK74 on my Saiga 7.62x39? My buddy is about to replace the gas tube off of his lancaster AK74 in favor of an ultimak rail, and if it'll work, I'll take it off his hands.
Saiga accuracy (group size)
in Saiga Weapons - General Discussion
Posted
I see the SKS mentioned alot when it comes to accuracy. But when you hop on the SKS boards most people get 3-4 inch groups at @ 100. 2" may be possible, but it is certainly not the norm.