jacksmad1
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Posts posted by jacksmad1
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I just put a YHM Phantom 5C2 on my 16" 308. I bought the 5/8 x 24 and re-threaded it to 17x1. As soon as the weather and time permits I plan on doing a night shoot video with and without it to show the difference. I know it is working to some extent because now I am unable to see the fireball in full daylight like I could before....but only a night shoot will really show how much it works.
The 5C2 is a flash hider/compensator. The way it accomplishes the "brake" action is by redirecting the gasses upward to reduce muzzle climb. It is indexed and it does not have slots on the bottom to prevent kicking up dust or dirt when firing from a prone position.
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I just put a YHM Phantom 5C2 on my 16" 308. I bought the 5/8 x 24 and re-threaded it to 17x1. As soon as the weather and time permits I plan on doing a night shoot video with and without it to show the difference. I know it is working to some extent because now I am unable to see the fireball in full daylight like I could before....but only a night shoot will really show how much it works.
The 5C2 is a flash hider/compensator. The way it accomplishes the "brake" action is by redirecting the gasses upward to reduce muzzle climb. It is indexed and it does not have slots on the bottom to prevent kicking up dust or dirt when firing from a prone position.
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Most who thread their own go with 17x1 because it is easy. You don't need to turn down the barrel to the proper diameter. If you are having it done by a professional, they will turn down the barrel and go with a common thread. I had mine done (also in AZ), to 5/8-24 thread pattern, which is the same as the AR-10. I had a smith do it as I wanted to attach my YHM Phantom .308 suppressor to it.
If all you are going to do is put a muzzle brake or flash hider on it, you can do it yourself to 17x1. But if you want it done a little nicer, have the smith do it.
Agreed.....that is exactly why I went the route I did.......just a matter of choice / preference, ease, etc.
Either approach will work depending on what you want to do....
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I just bought the 17x1 die and TAT from Dinzag and threaded my own barrel. I am not a machinist and have no real work experience with this type of metal work. I am just a garage tinkerer. You can buy almost any brake or hider that is threaded for 5/8" and then send it to Dinzag and he will rethread it to 17x1 for $30. So total cost was: 17x1 die $30, TAT $25, if you need a die stock (handle) it is $15. So you could have your barrel threaded for $70, then the brake/hider threaded for $30, plus the cost of the brake/hider, of which there are plenty available in the 5/8 thread size. The instructions for threading your barrel are on Dinzags site. If I can do it, most anyone that can use a screwdriver or wrench could do it. Just read the instructions ( READ the instructions ) take your time, and it is really not hard to do. I bought the YHM 5C2 hider/compensator for mine. I also removed and relocated my FSB myself by following the instructions that you can also find on this site and elsewhere.
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I have one of the UTG lever locks on my 308 and it works great. I take my scope off and put it back on and it holds zero without a problem. Just have to make sure the tension screw that holds the lever on is adjusted so that when the lever closes it latches tight. It is a one time set and forget adjustment.
Go for it !
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I have 2 Surefire 25 mags and I also just bought 3 Uinta 20 mags. Just got through testing the Uinta mags today for the first time. I am not having any feed problems with either brand. They both fit snugly and have no problems feeding. I have an AK that has had feed problems with a couple of mags and it is always a bear to diagnose what the real cause of the malfunction is.
Everyone needs to be aware of "stacked tolerances". It can be the rifle and the mags or just one or the other. If your rifle is on the edge of its manufacturing tolerance and you get a mag that is on the edge of its tolerances, but with each being within their respective tolerances, but just barely, the "stacked tolerances" of the rifle and mag could cause the FTF. Just because a certain mag does work in your particular rifle does not necessarily mean your rifle is correct. All it means is that your rifle can function with that mag. It also does not necessarily mean that mag is within tolerance either, it just means that the mag works in your rifle.
I believe Uinta makes a good product and that they are listening to all of us and working on their manufacturing process and design to ensure that their mags will work with as many rifles as is possible for any manufacturer. Let's face it, Saiga's are great rifles, but how many of our rifles are bone stock anymore? Even if they were, do you really believe they are all built to exactly the same dimensions? As long as Uinta is standing behind their product and are willing to work with everyone that has an issue, let's give them the support any startup needs. Our other choice is to continue to pay a single manufacturer any price they think the market will bear for their mags. I would prefer to see some competition to help drive the prices down for all of us so we can continue to enjoy this addiction.
Just my
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with a 17" sight radius at 100 yds your .5mm play would cause point of impact to move plus or minus 4.16 inches
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How long will your sight radius be with the HK sight installed ? (Distance between your front and rear sight)
For instance, if your sight radius is 15" and your target is 100 yds away, a movement of 2mm on your rear sight would cause the point of impact to move 18.8".
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Can anyone give input about installing HK sights on their 308? Just curious if maintaining zero is possible or will it jump to minute of man? My cover seems very rock solid, very minute (1-2 mm) side to side movement if I put about 15 pounds of pressure on it. Input please...
How long will your sight radius be with the HK sight installed ? (Distance between your front and rear sight)
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Congratulations!
How about posting some pics ?
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I am wanting to thread my 308 barrel for a flash suppressor / compensator to 17x1. Since Dinzag does not rent the tools any longer, I was wondering if anyone else had purchased the die and tat and would be willing to either rent or sell them if they are still in good working condition ?
I would also be interested in a 17x1 tap to rethread the flash hider as well.
Thanks!
bump 1
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I am wanting to thread my 308 barrel for a flash suppressor / compensator to 17x1. Since Dinzag does not rent the tools any longer, I was wondering if anyone else had purchased the die and tat and would be willing to either rent or sell them if they are still in good working condition ?
I would also be interested in a 17x1 tap to rethread the flash hider as well.
Thanks!
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I am sure the suppressor could be installed the same way I did my compensator. If you already have the barrel threaded you may consider purchasing one of the suppressor that are close in bore size the the 17x1 and just tap it out to the 17x1 thread needed. If you still need to tap the barrel why not use a common thread pattern?
I am not a machinist by a long shot, but my understanding was that in order to thread the barrel to a thread smaller than 17x1, it would be necessary to have it turned to a smaller diameter on a lathe.
Is that true ? or is there another way to thread it to 5/8x24 without having to use a lathe to reduce the barrel diameter first ?
You do need to turn it down. Another way is to just pick out a brake you like and send it over to Dinzag (Brian). I know that he has tapped different brakes for 17x1 threads for people before, for a very reasonable price. I would suggest contacting him.
I have been exchanging emails with him a couple of times this week. I would really like to see night videos of the various flash suppressors that different ones have already installed on their 308's. There are some videos on youtube of suppressor fire at night but mostly from M4's and M16's.
Does anyone have one of Dinzag's Phantom suppressors installed on their 308? How about a night fire video ?
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I am sure the suppressor could be installed the same way I did my compensator. If you already have the barrel threaded you may consider purchasing one of the suppressor that are close in bore size the the 17x1 and just tap it out to the 17x1 thread needed. If you still need to tap the barrel why not use a common thread pattern?
I am not a machinist by a long shot, but my understanding was that in order to thread the barrel to a thread smaller than 17x1, it would be necessary to have it turned to a smaller diameter on a lathe.
Is that true ? or is there another way to thread it to 5/8x24 without having to use a lathe to reduce the barrel diameter first ?
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Hasn't anyone got any suggestions or advice on installing a flash suppressor ?
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I have the 16" barrel with the .671 diameter and I have just completed moving my front sight block back to get ready for a flash suppressor. My understanding is that the size and pitch of threads for this barrel diameter is recommended to be 17x1 RH. I am having trouble finding a flash suppressor that works and is not just "tacticool" that is available in the 17x1 thread size. I really like the Vortex suppressor but they currently do not offer it in a 17x1 thread.
What have you installed on your 308 ?
Is the 17x1 thread the way to go ?
If so what suppressor works as good as a Vortex or equivalent that is available in 17x1 ?
Is there a better way to approach this ?
I need your input to do this right the first time.
Thanks!
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Looks great....good job. Please post any other pictures of the process and your alignment tool. Give us a detailed write up if you can. I want one.
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Notice is says MEN92J0001. MEN is the maker, 92 is the year, J0001 is month/time or batch lot.
MEN stands for Metallwerk Elisenhütte G.m.b.H (from what I can find in ten seconds on google)
DAG stands for Dynamit Noble (again only a quick google search)
Its German made Nato spec 7.62x51mm ammo.
Patrone is cartridge or shell. But with how its written on the boxes I can totally see everyone assuming that it's a maker name.
Figured you may find it interesting.
Thanks for all the info....yeah with PATRONE in big bold letters I just assumed and you know what that generally means.......
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Guess I need to try tula (been using german surplus, 147 grain, probably the same stuff)
Tried the south african stuff?
I have never tried the South African surplus, but would be glad to do a test and write up if someone would ship me some.....
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Good write-up! Tula does pretty well for me too.
I think "Patrone" is German for "Cartridge". Was it surplus German stuff?
Yes it was the German surplus in the 200 round battle packs from Aim Surplus. Had no idea what Patrone meant.....I have enough trouble with english....
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Went to the range yesterday since it was around 72 degrees. Winds were light and variable. I tried 3 more brands of ammo in my 16" Saiga 308. Rifle has been converted with a G2 FCG. Used front and rear bag shooting rests for all targets. All shots taken from 100 yards. I have a Tasco 2.5-10X Mil-Dot Varmint Scope mounted on a UTG Leapers quick detach side scope mount. And yes it does hold zero when you detach and re-attach the scope for cleaning.
Shot several rounds of Brown Bear through the barrel just to warm it up some.
Three rounds of target shooting of 5 rounds each. 1 shot approximately every 10 seconds. Between rounds I would walk down and replace the target. Targets were shot in this order:
1. Patrone 150 gr FMJ headstamp MEN92J0001, German
2. Tulammo 150 gr FMJ Black Box headstamp Tulammo 308 WIN, Lot J-104-10
3. Brown Bear 145 gr FMJ
My 16" Saiga seems to prefer the TulAmmo. I just placed an order for more....
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I am in the middle of converting my .308 and have run into a snag. The rivet/bolt hole for the front part of the trigger guard is to close to the mag release. If I drill a secondary hole just behind it back towards the trigger, will I be jeopradizing the integrity of the receiver? The trigger guard I have is from CSS and is the angled design. This will make two holes I will have to drill.... front and rear bolt holes for mounting the trigger guard. Thanks.
I hope not, because I just finished the conversion on mine and ran into the exact same thing. I went ahead and drilled a new hole just to the rear of the original hole for the front trigger guard screw and also drilled the hole for the rear trigger guard screw. IMHO it will not hurt the integrity of the receiver. There is plenty of metal all around the holes and the holes do not connect. The trigger guard will cover the front hole when installed so there will not be any exposed holes once the trigger guard is installed.
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Nice shooting!
Are the pictures listed as they were shot (1st picture being first group and so forth)?
How many rounds had you put down the barrel before using those targets?
I'm curious to how hot the barrel was. Almost seems to be more accurate the hotter the barrel got if pictures indicate order of groupings.
Actually no. I tried to post them in sequence but the editor switched them up for some reason. The targets were shot in this sequence:
1. Red yellow and black target
2. Fed 150 g SP Red Box
3. RG 150 g SP
4. Fed 150 g SP with chrono errors
5. TW 69
I was not shooting fast and I was shooting 1 at a time, manually loading like a bolt gun.
If I remember correctly, I walked down and replaced targets between the 3 and 4 targets.
The barrel was not very hot as I was leaving it unchambered between shots to allow air circulation, so it was warm but not hot.
Another thing to bear in mind is this is an unmodified rifle with stock trigger. Since I did this, I have since converted it with the CSS conversion kit with new stocks, FCG, and PG.
When the weather allows I want to go back and do more testing. Too cold and windy now.
If you position your mouse cursor over the photos of the targets, the first character of each photo name is the sequence number they were shot in.
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I have one on my Saiga-12. Using a cheap red-dot, I didn't have much hope for a good zero 'holding on'. However, I've done the on and off several times, and checked the zero with a boresight laser twice during that time...and it is close enough for government work (for me). I did notice that you really need to move it ALL THE WAY onto the side plate to get the matching lock-on each time.
"Works for Me". BTW I got it from CSS
AL
I have one on my 16" and it is secure and locks up fine. If yours is not tight enough, remove it, adjust the screw on the bottom ccw to tighten it. It doesn't take much to make it tight. I adjusted mine to the point where it was somewhat difficult to close the lever lock by hand and it is rock solid. I like it for my primary sighting using a scope. I only plan to remove mine should something happen to the scope. The irons are already zeroed (as good as I can with my eyes anyway), so if I need to, I can just lift the lever and I am ready to go. From what I have heard, most people that have problems with these mounts is due to something being wrong with the side mounts on their rifle. Mine will shoot 1" groups at 100 yds from a bench rest with good ammo.
My .308 sight issue
in Saiga .308
Posted
When a front sight is not vertical in relationship to the barrel it is said to be canted. It is not uncommon in these type of rifles. It depends on how much it is canted and what exactly is wrong as to what is required to remedy the situation.
Would it be possible for you to post some pictures of your front sight showing the problem ?