jacksmad1

When a front sight is not vertical in relationship to the barrel it is said to be canted. It is not uncommon in these type of rifles. It depends on how much it is canted and what exactly is wrong as to what is required to remedy the situation. Would it be possible for you to post some pictures of your front sight showing the problem ?

I just put a YHM Phantom 5C2 on my 16" 308. I bought the 5/8 x 24 and re-threaded it to 17x1. As soon as the weather and time permits I plan on doing a night shoot video with and without it to show the difference. I know it is working to some extent because now I am unable to see the fireball in full daylight like I could before....but only a night shoot will really show how much it works. The 5C2 is a flash hider/compensator. The way it accomplishes the "brake" action is by redirecting the gasses upward to reduce muzzle climb. It is indexed and it does not have slots on the bo

I just put a YHM Phantom 5C2 on my 16" 308. I bought the 5/8 x 24 and re-threaded it to 17x1. As soon as the weather and time permits I plan on doing a night shoot video with and without it to show the difference. I know it is working to some extent because now I am unable to see the fireball in full daylight like I could before....but only a night shoot will really show how much it works. The 5C2 is a flash hider/compensator. The way it accomplishes the "brake" action is by redirecting the gasses upward to reduce muzzle climb. It is indexed and it does not have slots on the bottom to

Agreed.....that is exactly why I went the route I did.......just a matter of choice / preference, ease, etc. Either approach will work depending on what you want to do....

I just bought the 17x1 die and TAT from Dinzag and threaded my own barrel. I am not a machinist and have no real work experience with this type of metal work. I am just a garage tinkerer. You can buy almost any brake or hider that is threaded for 5/8" and then send it to Dinzag and he will rethread it to 17x1 for $30. So total cost was: 17x1 die $30, TAT $25, if you need a die stock (handle) it is $15. So you could have your barrel threaded for $70, then the brake/hider threaded for $30, plus the cost of the brake/hider, of which there are plenty available in the 5/8 thread size. The

I have one of the UTG lever locks on my 308 and it works great. I take my scope off and put it back on and it holds zero without a problem. Just have to make sure the tension screw that holds the lever on is adjusted so that when the lever closes it latches tight. It is a one time set and forget adjustment. Go for it !

I have 2 Surefire 25 mags and I also just bought 3 Uinta 20 mags. Just got through testing the Uinta mags today for the first time. I am not having any feed problems with either brand. They both fit snugly and have no problems feeding. I have an AK that has had feed problems with a couple of mags and it is always a bear to diagnose what the real cause of the malfunction is. Everyone needs to be aware of "stacked tolerances". It can be the rifle and the mags or just one or the other. If your rifle is on the edge of its manufacturing tolerance and you get a mag that is on the edge of

with a 17" sight radius at 100 yds your .5mm play would cause point of impact to move plus or minus 4.16 inches

How long will your sight radius be with the HK sight installed ? (Distance between your front and rear sight) For instance, if your sight radius is 15" and your target is 100 yds away, a movement of 2mm on your rear sight would cause the point of impact to move 18.8".

How long will your sight radius be with the HK sight installed ? (Distance between your front and rear sight)

Congratulations! How about posting some pics ?

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I am wanting to thread my 308 barrel for a flash suppressor / compensator to 17x1. Since Dinzag does not rent the tools any longer, I was wondering if anyone else had purchased the die and tat and would be willing to either rent or sell them if they are still in good working condition ? I would also be interested in a 17x1 tap to rethread the flash hider as well. Thanks!

I am not a machinist by a long shot, but my understanding was that in order to thread the barrel to a thread smaller than 17x1, it would be necessary to have it turned to a smaller diameter on a lathe. Is that true ? or is there another way to thread it to 5/8x24 without having to use a lathe to reduce the barrel diameter first ? You do need to turn it down. Another way is to just pick out a brake you like and send it over to Dinzag (Brian). I know that he has tapped different brakes for 17x1 threads for people before, for a very reasonable price. I would suggest contacting him.

I am not a machinist by a long shot, but my understanding was that in order to thread the barrel to a thread smaller than 17x1, it would be necessary to have it turned to a smaller diameter on a lathe. Is that true ? or is there another way to thread it to 5/8x24 without having to use a lathe to reduce the barrel diameter first ?

Hasn't anyone got any suggestions or advice on installing a flash suppressor ?

I have the 16" barrel with the .671 diameter and I have just completed moving my front sight block back to get ready for a flash suppressor. My understanding is that the size and pitch of threads for this barrel diameter is recommended to be 17x1 RH. I am having trouble finding a flash suppressor that works and is not just "tacticool" that is available in the 17x1 thread size. I really like the Vortex suppressor but they currently do not offer it in a 17x1 thread. What have you installed on your 308 ? Is the 17x1 thread the way to go ? If so what suppressor works as good as a Vo

Looks great....good job. Please post any other pictures of the process and your alignment tool. Give us a detailed write up if you can. I want one.

Thanks for all the info....yeah with PATRONE in big bold letters I just assumed and you know what that generally means.......

I have never tried the South African surplus, but would be glad to do a test and write up if someone would ship me some.....

Yes it was the German surplus in the 200 round battle packs from Aim Surplus. Had no idea what Patrone meant.....I have enough trouble with english....

Went to the range yesterday since it was around 72 degrees. Winds were light and variable. I tried 3 more brands of ammo in my 16" Saiga 308. Rifle has been converted with a G2 FCG. Used front and rear bag shooting rests for all targets. All shots taken from 100 yards. I have a Tasco 2.5-10X Mil-Dot Varmint Scope mounted on a UTG Leapers quick detach side scope mount. And yes it does hold zero when you detach and re-attach the scope for cleaning. Shot several rounds of Brown Bear through the barrel just to warm it up some. Three rounds of target shooting of 5 rounds each. 1 s

I hope not, because I just finished the conversion on mine and ran into the exact same thing. I went ahead and drilled a new hole just to the rear of the original hole for the front trigger guard screw and also drilled the hole for the rear trigger guard screw. IMHO it will not hurt the integrity of the receiver. There is plenty of metal all around the holes and the holes do not connect. The trigger guard will cover the front hole when installed so there will not be any exposed holes once the trigger guard is installed.

Actually no. I tried to post them in sequence but the editor switched them up for some reason. The targets were shot in this sequence: 1. Red yellow and black target 2. Fed 150 g SP Red Box 3. RG 150 g SP 4. Fed 150 g SP with chrono errors 5. TW 69 I was not shooting fast and I was shooting 1 at a time, manually loading like a bolt gun. If I remember correctly, I walked down and replaced targets between the 3 and 4 targets. The barrel was not very hot as I was leaving it unchambered between shots to allow air circulation, so it was warm but not hot. Another thi

I have one on my 16" and it is secure and locks up fine. If yours is not tight enough, remove it, adjust the screw on the bottom ccw to tighten it. It doesn't take much to make it tight. I adjusted mine to the point where it was somewhat difficult to close the lever lock by hand and it is rock solid. I like it for my primary sighting using a scope. I only plan to remove mine should something happen to the scope. The irons are already zeroed (as good as I can with my eyes anyway), so if I need to, I can just lift the lever and I am ready to go. From what I have heard, most people that ha