mossyshooter

Hello. I am currently in the process of making my own rifled choke for my saiga 410 since the paradox choke seems to be harder to find than bigfoot. First off I slugged the barrel of my 410. What I found was my gun is a bit underbore. It came out at .405. Tight enough that I didnt want to try squeezing a 41 cal slug down the entire length of the barrel. For availability of components, I decided on using 40/10mm bullets. No it probably wouldnt be as accurate as 405 win bullets but I should be able to drive middle weight bullets in the 150 grain range close to 2000 fps and stay within facto

It would probably just be squeezed down just like when your shot goes through the forcing cone and through a choke tube. I tried real dense cardboard, and I also tried a plastic type material similar in construction to cardboard using an old shell with the end flared slightly and the edge polished and sharpened for a hole punch. I still see signs of blow by as the recoil is very light and the recovered wads don't look like they sealed at all. I also think I need to find a stronger overshot card and find a way to roll the edge of the shell over more so I get a better pressure buildup. I think w

No prob. For those that don't have a precision set of drill bits, a 15/64 seems to work just fine. Use a small drill bit about the diameter of your primer indent maybe a little bigger. Once you get the center drilled out work your way up to the 15/64 size using 2 progressively larger bits. Once you start to drill with the 15/64 bit it will probably grab and twist loose whats left of the old primer out. You then can finish drilling out the pocket. Use a larger bit to countersink it for the 209 primer so it fits flush. When thats al done I like to roll up a small piece of very fine sandpaper and

One thing to note. To reload these shells I am going to need a dedicated resizing tool as the one in a standard press just isn't cutting it. These cases expand quite a bit when fired and the steel case doesn't have the elastic memory of a plastic case, sometimes a the reloaded rounds don't want to chamber. On the plus side everything checked out with them and they exhibited no bad tendencies. I do have to work on a better gas seal though as a single cardboard over powder wad bellow a WAA410HS wad isn't getting a good gas seal and the wad showed visible signs of gas blow by. Also recoil was far

Hey guys. Back again with yet another project. I have a ton of spent silver bear slug shell casings. I noticed that They do not have the standard 209 primer and are crimped in somehow. So I drilled the old primer and primer pocket out and then countersunk it to fit a 209 primer. Worked perfectly. I also noticed that I was having trouble loading anything more than 11/16 oz in my standard 3 inch winchester HS hulls. Even the 3/4oz winchester factory loads only contain about .7oz to .72oz of shot. Since the steel case is so much thinner and doesn't require a space robbing crimp it has a lot more

Hello everyone. I'm here with another project again. Everyone knows how woefully underpowered the current 410 slug loadings are today with the exception of the brenneke slugs. I recently got ahold of a BPI 4th edition small bore shotgun reloading manual. One peticular loading got my attention. The load was the small game slug load with a 93 grain lead ball and a special wad. It lists charge of 28 grains of Lil'Gun and a velocity of 2400 fps and a psi of 9200 psi. That equates to roughly 1,190 ft lbs of energy. The issue is I think they designed the load with the undersized .375 dia ball for sa

Hey I came across a page an another forum about some handloads someone came up with for hunting turkeys with a 410. It consists of 3/4oz of very heavy 18.5g/cc shot inside a standard target wad with a shot protector. This is far heavier than hevishot hevi-13 at 13g/cc and lead at around 11g/cc. Penetration of these super heavy tungsten #9 shot actually exceeded #4 lead shot and as you can see by his patterns, any turkey to 40 yards and beyond would be just as dead as it would be with a 10 gauge. Unfortunately it seems the source for the 18.5g/cc shot has dried up but I found another site with

Update. Appearently it just needed some breaking in. By the end of a box of federal 3 inch #6 it started throwing the spent shells about 20 feet so I turned the gas plug back to the #1 setting and low and behold, it cycles just fine now. I even managed to pop a squirrel behind the shop I work at. With the stock full choke, any squirrel within 30 yards is done for with the #6s. #7.5 should stretch that a bit more. Brenneke slugs hold about a 3 inch group at 50 yards with the point of impact being 10 o'clock and 6 inches from the bull. Considering the fact that i absolutely suck with open sights

Hey guys I'm new to the saiga line but I have nothing but good things to say so far about the new saiga 410 I picked up the other day. I stripped it down, cleaned everything, re lubed it and wiped everything down with remoil and went to the range for a bit today. For some reason it would not cycle any loads on the #1 gas setting. I tried 3 inch federal 11/16oz high brass loads, winchester xpert 3/8oz 1,400 fps steel shot (though the cylinder bore of course), and brenneke slugs. The #2 setting cycled everything without a hitch and the bolt didn't seem to be slamming back hard. Since I am fairly

I just picked up a new saiga 410. After noticing the external threads on the barrel for the screw on choke tube, the first thing that came to mind was making a rifled choke tube for the heavy slug handloads people are working on nowadays. All it would consist of is taking say a 4 inch barrel blank for say a 41 remington mag or similar, drilling out one end and tapping it for the saiga threats. Obviously it would have to have the right twist direction so it doesn't tent to back off the treads when fired. This would make it feasible to shoot heavy slug loads with much better than previously allo