MLM0358
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Posts posted by MLM0358
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I modifed the Russian GK-01 muzzle brake so I could use internal chokes. I cut off the stock Saiga threads, cut internal choke threads in the barrel concentric with the bore, then bored out the threads on the GK-01 brake and made a slip fit on my barrel, then attached it with set screws. Now I've got it all- chokes and a very effective muzzle brake.
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Mine broke. Call Tom Cole. Cadiz Gun Works. He fixed mine.
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Your diagnosis is correct about the barrel hood. I had the same problem -- did a barrel hood extension and the problem was solved 100%. For a totally reliable gun you want to completely eliminate the possibility of the failure you are experiencing. Test is to take a screwdriver and gently pry up a round and see if it will snag on the hood. If so, the hood is too short. See attached picture. The hood shown is the correct length--Note that there is no way for the round to ever get hung up on the hood. This is not difficult for any competent TIG welder. You don’t need much material added. Then carefully file the angle to match the existing angle on the side of the hood. Key is to keep the same angle on the side of the hood. This angle is what initiates the rotation of the bolt into battery.
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Good question and it's all a matter of preference. I tried all sorts of things and all of the mounts I tried were excellent quality and work well for some people --but they just weren't a good fit for my personal preference. I put on an R and R targets mount that goes into the rear sight dovetail (optic too far away for my taste), Arrendondo mount that is built in to the AR stock adapter (optic too close for my taste) and a picatinny rail scope mount that attached to to stock side rail on the receiver (perfect eye relief for me, but too bulky). I liked the concept of the JT Engineering mount that is drilled and tapped into the receiver, but it requires removal of the optic to remove the dust cover. I finally removed the factory scope mounting bracket, welded up the holes and made my own scope mount. I can remove the dust cover without disturbing the optic and the eye relief is just where I like it.
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Can you clarify- the high brass are 3" and obviously the Federal and Remington Express are 2 3/4. The 2 3/4 runs now on least restrictive gas setting, but not the 3" buckshot.
Everything ran fine before the conversion, both 2 3/4" and 3" -- you were using the V plug too at that time, or was the V plug part of the conversion?
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It depends on where you like the eye relief. There are lots of choices
If you like it forward, R and R has a mount that fits in the dovetail. I had one, but It's too far forward for my taste.
If you like it very close to your eye, Arrondondo makes one that is part of and AR style stock adapter. It's way to close for me.
If you like it in the middle over the top of the dust cover, you can buy a scope mount that attaches to the bracket on the side of the receiver. The scope mount has a picatinny rail. I did this and liked the optic location, but the mount was bulky.
JT Engineering makes one that attaches to the receiver. You do have to disasemble the mount to remove the dust cover. It looks clean and Jack says it returns to zero.
I finally made my own which has the right eye relief for me and allows me to remove the cover without disassembly.
For red dot, I orefer C more STS with 8 MOA dot. Bright, highly visible dot and can replace the battery wihout rezero.
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Bufferdestroyer -- that last post is so wrong on so many levels. Next we'll be sharing recipies.
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Incognito485, you have an interesting problem. I agree that the Duracoat probably shouldn't have been on the rails, but don't see that as the main problem, or it would most likely fail intermittantly on any round, not just the last round.
If I were chasing this, I'd really want to understand exactly what's going on.
First thing I'd do is positively identify if the mag has something to do with it. I'd test this by removing the mag, putting a round in manually and shooting it with no mag at all. I'd see if I ever get a failure. Then I'd put two rounds in a mag and shoot it and see if it fails on the last round. I'd repeat each of these a few times and see if there is a pattern.
If it never fails except with a mag, then I'd start looking at mag specific issues: insertion depth, follower, feed lips and other mag related issues.
Often FTEs have to do with short stroking. So early on in troubleshooting FTEs, I like to see if the gun really is short stroking. When a properly gassed gun is fired, the bolt carrier will just kiss the rear trunion. Pull the bolt all the way back, then let it slide forward just a bit -- say 1/10" or so. Put some masking tape on the receiver at that point. See picture 1. Fire the gun. When fired, the bolt handle will hit the tape and the tape should look like picture #2. If not, keep moving tape forward until the bolt handle impacts the tape -- now you know exactly how significant the short stroking problem is. Lots of stuff here on addressing that.
Let us know how this turns out, I'm curious.
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Extra E clips for the axis pins. I use these rather than the shepherd's crook or axis pin retaining plate.
Magnetic tip flat head screw driver for removal and installation of E clips.
Extra axis pin
Extra low recoil spring
Extra trigger group including disconnector spring and hammer spring (I broke one Red Star Arms adjustable trigger and a friend had a hammer break on a Tapco G2)
Extra metric M5 Button head cap screw for holding on the handguard
Bag of extra small SAE screws for all my modifications to the gun (e.g 6-40 socket head cap screws for the magwell, etc)
Extra socket head cap screw, spring and ball detent for the R and R Targets AR style safety.
Extra battery for optic
Extra mags.
Set of SAE and metric allen wrenches
Not as bulky as it sounds, except for mags it all fits in a small pouch.
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AR gold. Expensive but worth it.
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I'm a lefty and have a left side mag release and an ambidextrous AR style safety. The charging handle on the right side is already optimized for a lefty. It's the perfect left handed setup. I never get hit with a fired hull, but sometimes get hit in the forehead if I manually eject an unspent round.
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Manasquan, NJ --(Ammoland.com)- Saiga 12’s, Benelli M4’s and virtually any other tactical/military shotgun can no longer be banned from import by the ATF.
A little noticed provision tucked into a large appropriations bill obviously flew under the radar of the “Brady Bunch” and the “Illegal Mayors.”
The new law effectively kills ATF’s plan to stop tactical/military shotgun imports by way of abusing the “sporting purpose” requirement and their agency rulemaking powers.
The “Fiscal Year 2012 Agriculture, Commerce/Justice/Science (CJS) and Transportation/Housing/Urban Development (THUD) Appropriations bills”, also known as the “Mini-Bus”, was passed by Congress, and signed into law by President Obama on November 18, 2011.
The new law reads as follows:
SEC. 541. None of the funds made available by this Act may be used to pay the salaries or expenses of personnel to deny, or fail to act on, an application for the importation of any model of shotgun if–(1) all other requirements of law with respect to the proposed importation are met; and(2) no application for the importation of such model of shotgun, in the same configuration, had been denied by the Attorney General prior to January 1, 2011, on the basis that the shotgun was not particularly suitable for or readily adaptableThis new law became necessary due to the ATF releasing on January 27, 2011, a “Study on the Importability of Certain Shotguns.” The “Study” argued “military shotguns, or shotguns with common military features that are unsuitable for traditional shotgun sports” should be banned from import into the U.S.
The ban would have applied to all shotguns including semi-autos, pump-actions, double barrels, etc. As part of the rulemaking process, comments from the public on the study were allowed to be submitted until May 1, 2011.
Many gun owners had been dreading the ATF’s decision, knowing full well what ATF’s intention was from the start.-
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The first time you chamber a round you are manually cycing the bolt carrier far enough back to reset the trigger. It goes bang when you pull the trigger. Then most likely the bolt carrier probably not going back far enough to reset the trigger on subsequent cycles of the gun. You may have already checked this, but first palce to look is what is the gas setting on your gas plug. Screw it all the way in, then back it out to setting 3 and see what happens.
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Actually I sometimes use a bipod on my S-12 in 3 gun competition. There are stages with a spinner at 70 yards that must be rotated with slugs. It requires two or three hits in close succession to spin it. The plates are only 8" in diameter so it's much easier with a bipod. I have a short picatinny rail section on the bottom of a CSS cylindrical handguard and use a quick release bipod.
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I had the same thought as you-- was worried about breaking the wobbly op rod. I bought the heavy duty op rod but never put it in. I shoot it in competition and can't afford a failure -- but 3,000 rounds later it still runs just fine on the stock rod. I do check it though for any signs of failure. So far it's fine.
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Commonly referred to as the "shutter"
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I use an R and R magwell. The ergonomics are very similar to the AR so all my muscle memory works. I like straight insertion and having no problems inserting a mag on a closed bolt. It also works well with coupled mags.
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Yes it could be- all we need is the AR style bullet button. Bob, could the right side part of an AR15 mag release (the button oart) be made to fit in the 1919? or will it need something new? I'm assuming the parts are probably not interchangable.
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Not until someone comes up with a "bullet button" similar to what is on an AR15 in California. No detachable magazines on California legal shotguns.
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From an engineering perspective it has to do primarily with the tolerance stack up. There is a lot of friction in the action of a Saiga, but more importantly there is a critical timing relationship between the bolt, bolt carrier, the barrel hood and the area where the bolt lugs lock in the front trunion. There is obviously an optimum relationship between all these parts. On some guns the tolerances are all within range and the gun runs great right out of the box. On others all the tolerances add up to something too high or too low and it takes enormous energy to either lock, or unlock the bolt into battery. Birdshot can't do it reliably. At that point you have several options 1) Work on friction reduction and getting bolt timing issues corrected 2) Beat the gun into submission through "breaking it in" -- basically wear off the high spots and sharp corners by using the gun 3) Drill the gas ports to provide more energy to overcome the friction
Although many on the forum disagree, I'm not a big fan of option #3 -- I always choose #1 and address the root cause. If you choose #2 you'll at least have fun shooting it while it's breaking in.
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Might be a third option-- Have you considered R and Rs tactical version? I think they are $2498. I've built three Saigas using R and R parts --basically making the tactical version plus adding an optic. . I don't use the compensators. Components are first class. A friend has an R and R open gun with the compensators. We can't tell that much difference in recoil between the two. There is some slight difference but, my personal preference is to keep it simple and omit the comps.
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I too have had Tapco triogger problems. I put a brand new Tapco G2 on a Saiga 12 and the hammer broke in the middle of the Ironman 3 gun match. It literally broke into two pieces in the middle of a stage. I'm now installing Red Star Arms triggers on all the S-12s I build. These are machined, not cast like Tapco triggers. Also they adjustable for pre-travel, overtravel, disconnector engagement, and disconnector spring tension, It's more expensive, but far superior.
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Dang, it is an optic. I thought it was something on the stove. Nice machining and great innovation.
Anyone sell a CA compliant S12?
in General Discussion - Any topic is welcome here!!!
Posted
In Southern California-- Rifle Gear in Fountain Valley.