JohnnyE
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Posts posted by JohnnyE
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I don't know.... I just can't get into the brakes. I'd run the barrel nut or a unvented Polychoke.
If there was a muzzle-mount brake out there that gave a significant reduction in recoil, I might be inclined to want to hang another pound of metal on the end of my weapon. Until then.... I'll pass.
evl, I agree with ya when we're talkin about the smaller, more common "breacher" brakes. However, Monster brakes do work, and reduce recoil in a very appreciable way, (by ~25% with high brass and it virtually negates bird shot recoil). In order to do that at the muzzle on a 12-ga, it does have to be massive; which is why I use one on a cut-down barrel.
I gotta agree with the 25% recoil reduction by the Monster Brake. Have two identical Saiga 12's with 19" bbls, except I put a Monster Brake on one, and nothing on the other. Took 'em both to range and alternated shooting them to get a feeling for the effect of the brake. Yeah, I'd say 20-25% reduction in felt recoil. Bought a second Monster Brake for the other gun.
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GUYS,GOOD SHIT HERE, THIS IS JUST THE FIRST ONE.SEND OUT TO ALL YOUR LIB-TARD FRIENDS IN 'TARDVILLE....JESS
That pretty much sums it up.
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Love the blame game. In the end you don't point a damn gun at yourself and if you haven't even checked if it is loaded, you really don't. Son-in-law may be dumb, but he isn't the one with a titanium shoulder now
Right. It does not matter who did or didn't do anything to or with the gun. Once a gun gets into your hands, YOU are COMPLETELY responsible for anything that happens while you are holding it. It doesn't matter if the gunsmith screwed up the trigger job, or whatever, we all know the rules! Follow them without exception.
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I think you inserted the double banana in the wrong places!
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Very nice! I'm sharing with my very challenged Maryland friends.
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Now they are offering school counseling for this incident? I must be dreaming. WTF is wrong with these people?
"the school counselor will be available for any student who needs to talk."
http://www.nbcnews.com/id/51045306/ns/local_news-washington_dc/#.UTbjkjeECko
I HOPE kids are seeking counseling to get help dealing with stupid adults who created such an insane policy!
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I just stopped by the gun store in my home town and the racks are bare. Hummm, must have sold out fast.
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$6.25 per rd?! When you try to rob people, isn't it customary to load the bullets INTO a gun and point it at them?
They aren't trying to rob anyone, they're simply looking for someone willing to pay the ridiculous price.
Going price on Gunjoker is cheaper than they're.
I agree. The market place gets its chance to speak. Some "gougers" really do provide a service by ensuring a supply so that those folks who GOTTA HAVE IT can...for a price I just failed to get my scarastic smiley in there.
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$6.25 per rd?! When you try to rob people, isn't it customary to load the bullets INTO a gun and point it at them?
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Out of stock
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Pauly is still doing his thing. He is backed up and last week announced here that he has put a moratorium on accepting new work for, IIRC, a month, so he can get caught up. Search for his post.
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Got mine, too. Thanks Mike! And I LOVE the way you are stuffing the speculators trying to sell on GB
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I was at the Nation's Gun Show in VA on 2/9/13 and one of the larger mag vendors had SGM 12 round S12 mags for $49.95. Not bad in the current climate...only a 10% bump from "normal."
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I was just at the Nation's Gun Show in Chantilly VA, (30 mi W of DC) and saw Colt LE6920's priced at $2,499. 33 round Glock 9mm mags (geniune Glock, not Korean) at one of the larger vendors were price at...$129. Other Glock mags were running in the $40's.30 round gen 2 PMAG's we $40 and up. 5.56/.223 ammo was $1.00 to $1.10 per round. I'm gonna sit back and relax for awhile. Happy to see that SGM 12 round Saiga 12 mags were $50. All plus tax, of course.
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Keep an eye on Cali and Maryland. This is death by a thousand cuts...and like any cancer, unless you remove it completely, it spreads.
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If the founding fathers wrote we had the right to keep and bear weapons, then that's what I'd call them. Well, that's not what they wrote. I call mine "firearms". Hell, a hammer is always a tool and, depending on what you do with it, it may become a weapon. When I am punching paper, my firearms are clearly not weapns. If a local scumbag tries to jump me when I'm carrying,then he's gonna be introduced to my weapon.
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Well, I only have experience with three Saiga 12's, so I'm no expert, but two gas blocks were a cinch to remove. The third took some real muscle, and the key was putting the muzzle down on a piece of 1x4 on the concrete basement floor. Doing this eliminated nearly all the "give" that a softer or springy surface, like my workbench, provided. None of the hammer blows wasted energy compressing the bench. The concrete floor was a solid anvil. And I still had to really swing!
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Yes. Make sure whatever is under it is solid, so the weapon will be firmly supported. If whatever is under the gas block is allowed to give, it will absorb the energy instead of moving the pin. Use a punch with a shaft that is about 1/4" to 1/2" long and don't be afraid to smack it hard. A few hard strikes will deform the pin less that a lot of light strikes.
I was just talking to someone a few days ago about how much gunsmithing is done with a hammer. It should almost be called Hammersmithing. I get guns in often that people just couldn't get apart to see what was wrong with them or couldn't get the sights off of to swap them out. Stubborn pins and sights are usually what causes most DIYs to abort mission. I won't hesitate to lay fury down on a weapon. When doing something for one of the other guys at the shop on their personal weapons, I tell them not to look, lol. They trust me and always like the results.
After you get the pins out, give the gas block a couple of good whacks from side to side with a mallet. This breaks loose the burrs where the pins were and makes it drive off easier. Note the lug on the bottom of the gas block where the handguard screw goes. Again, with the weapon firmly supported (in a well-mounted vise, barrel down), use a large punch or dulled cold chisel on that lug to drive the block off. when it is time to put it back on, apply some lube to the inside of the gas block and on the gas block seat. Usually, a rubber or leather mallet will drive the gas block on by striking the face of the block where the gas regulator goes. Make sure the regulator is not in the gas block.
An idea to run by you. When putting a VERY TIGHT gas block back on one of my barrels, (it took some real pounding to get it off), rather than smack it back on with a mallet, I heated the gas block in a 400 degree oven for about 30 minutes. When it was hot, I grabbed it with insulated gloves and it dropped right over the room-temperature barrel. Slipped on like a size 10 shoe over a size 8 foot. No muss, no fuss. Never got the gas block hot enought to affect the metallurgy. What do you pros think?
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Ordered two drums Saturday morning, January 12
Shipping confirmation email received Monday afternoon, January 21
On my doorstep today, Wednesday afternoon, January 23
...and I've got room and money for those double stacks...
Thanks Mike and good luck in this new business climate.
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Hold on tight, it's gonna be a wild ride. Barring an appeal, if Illinois passes concealed carry, will they go with "shall issue" or will they follow in New Jersey and Maryland's footsteps and pass a "may-issue" law? I wonder. And if/when it goes "may-issue" then keep an eye on the US 4th Circuit Court of Appeals decision in the Woollard v. Sheridan case, where Woollard is challenging Maryland's "may-issue" statute. Woollard already won at the district court level. The appellate court is expected to announce its opinion this spring.
Since Maryland is in the 4th circuit, and Illinois is in the 7th circuit, the Woollard case would not be binding on Illinois. Here come the appeals to the US Supreme Court.
This could take a while.
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I like simple and subtle. The original expression is "Keep Cool and Carry On." Okay, I say add the Saiga and the letter "e", in other words...
Keep Cool
and
Carry One
The reader is left to his own imagination, wondering what is on your mind.
instead of "Keep Calm and Carry on"
same lettering style and format but
"Keep Calm and Carry One" with the Saiga 12 or AK picture.....
Cool Groovy Mike! We're diggin' the same thing!
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I like simple and subtle. The original expression is "Keep Cool and Carry On." Okay, I say add the Saiga and the letter "e", in other words...
Keep Cool
and
Carry One
The reader is left to his own imagination, wondering what is on your mind.
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If JT Engineering released their magwell that accepts MD-20 drums and stick mags, I would buy three.JT Engineering has a Magwell that will accept Drums and Sticks. According to what I've read on his sub-forum here, he isn't sure if he is going to market it or not. I know I'd pick one up!
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Short answer, any true lubricant will do. Long answer...
I have the benefit of working with a gentleman who has a PhD in tribology. Tribology is the study of the effects of materials in relative motion – two things moving in relation to each other. Some things slide along each other, like a carrier moving back and forth on rails, and other things rotate, like a shaft within a bearing. His career is devoted to minimizing the damaging effects of wear and tear as things rub against each other. He is a professional in the field and I trust his judgment. Neither of us works for any companies or stores that make or sell lubricants.
He understands the lubrication challenges in firearms and automotives, and I showed him this webpage by Grant Cunningham (http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html) and asked him to comment.
My colleague had great things to say about molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) and its ability to protect against wear between sliding surfaces like a carrier and rails. Here you need boundary protection. While MoS2 is black and may make a mess of your pants if you use it on the slide of the 1911 you are carrying concealed, inside an AK or Saiga, who cares! The trick was to find a commercially available product containing the highest concentration of MoS2, since that is the key ingredient. Loctite Moly Paste #51048 has the highest concentration of MoS2 (65%) that I could find in a reasonable quantity. The remaining 35% is grease that helps keep it in place. What’s more, he told me that almost EVERYONE uses way too much grease. Carefully and sparingly apply the grease until you barely see just the finest hint of grease on the object, then STOP and don’t add any more! Don’t lather in on like shaving cream. That will only give dust and dirt something to adhere to. If it gets slung off of the carrier, you put on WAY too much. It was wasted and made a mess. I apply MoS2 grease with a tiny artist’s paint brush. I'm 55 years old and a $20 8 oz. pot of this product is a lifetime supply...and I shoot nearly every week. It goes on the rails, the hammer face and the underside of the carrier where they contact each other (all of which were profiled and polished by Pauly), the trigger components other than the axis pins, the bolt lugs and other non-rotating bolt parts.
On rotating parts and exterior surfaces of the piece, corrosion protection is a high priority. Let’s face it, there aren’t any shafts spinning at 5,000 RPM inside a Saiga or any other firearm we own. And the loads are very reasonable. How much force does a trigger or hammer place on the axis pins, or a bolt in the carrier, when they rotate? Not much!
My colleague had less to say on this subject except that any true lubricant will support these hydrodynamic loads. It needs to penetrate into confined places. He and I followed Cunningham’s lead. Dexron automatic transmission fluid appears to fit the bill. Sure, it stinks, but it’s a Saiga that I shoot for fun and to cause a ruckus, not a Purdy that I show off at the skeet club. It appears to do a fine job resisting corrosion and oxidation in the harshest environments and it is a true lubricant that flows. You sure can’t beat the price. The quart I got at the auto parts store for a few bucks will, like the pot of moly lube, last me a lifetime.
If you chose, you can spend many dollars per milliliter for exotic, specialty lubes containing secret, "miracle" ingredients. They will all protect your firearms during your and many succeeding lifetimes. I just refuse to overpay for things that will not equal, let alone outperform, products that have years of research and experience behind them. To be meaningful, we need statistics that go beyond our personal experiences. When you boil it all down, in most cases we are trying to protect against wear from steel on steel, at modest temperatures and low speeds, in at worst a sweaty, humid environment. We’re not protecting a turbocharger shaft spinning at 30,000 RPM while being assaulted by 1,000 degree exhaust gasses for hours on end. The major labs have created many great products at very reasonable prices that are used every day on billions of dollars of much more demanding machinery.
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A quick reminder on forum rules...
in General Discussion - Any topic is welcome here!!!
Posted
You can see from my post count that up to this point this thread, I am the newest member to comment. I gotta say that I steer as much of my business as I can to the Business Members. I have received only EXCELLENT service at fair to great prices. On top of that, I have to do my part to keep these guys keeping this forum going. I'm not a professional gunsmith, but I have built a few engines in my life, so I know which end of a soldering iron not to grab. The advice, and down right professional guidance you find here is amazing! Watch out for the red herrings from rank amateurs, though. The four Saiga 12's I've owned or worked on with friends, along with the services of Business Members, perform flawlessly. Can anyone imagine building their Saiga without these resources? I can't. Support these guys, support this forum, support this addiction!