dashowdy
-
Content Count
725 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Blogs
Calendar
Store
Posts posted by dashowdy
-
-
I believe without the fcg moved up you have to do a little grinding on the front of the stock mount to get it to fit. I have one on mine but it has the fcg moved up so never tried it with it that far back but there is some grinding involved in that case.
-
The spot is in eastern north carolina, these are just common snapping turtles. The large alligator snappers live around in the swamps along the highways in between bertie and hertford counties. They are not big fans of ponds of this size. They prefer the swamp, larger prey for there enormous size. That is one I definitely would not want to run into.
Bean apparently so, The geese are really plentiful here as well as the fish so they pretty much have a limitless amount of food. Due to climate change I guess some estimated 100,000 geese never migrate out of north carolina.
-
huge help schultze, allthough truthfully I am talking about so many that they really are not interested in eating them. I might if I am feeling froggy but truthfully if I can find a big enough one I might just have Him stuffed and mounted so he can be my new conversation piece. Besides what is the fun in not getting to use the saiga. We will probably go hunting for them later in the evening once they are out of the water.
-
I dont like either because where my uncle lives you can see alligator snapping turtles as big as a damn washing machine. Granted I hate geese too so I guess it is a win win situation.
-
I got some good news the other day, I have a family farm apparently that my uncle lives on that is about 250 acres. My uncle jimmy passed away and left me about 250 rounds of winchester super x ammo for the rifle and a military grade ammo can. And I am pretty sure what seems to be a original issue M1a steel military magazine. The best part is they have a pond on the property apparently that is full of snapping turtles that come up and eat the baby canadian geese. So basically it is open season on snapping turtles at the family farm. Hopefully I will be going down with the saiga here in the next couple of months to give the turtles a what for. Most of what my uncle is using is just 22 long rifle on them and seems to work well, hate to see what the 7.62 does to them.
Has anyone in here been turtle hunting and whats the biggest one you have seen. Are these things edible or is it gonna taste like ass.
-
dimples are on the side of the reciever where the mag goes in. Chamber step is the inside of the chamber where the bullet goes in and is locked into place if you only see one step then it has no chamber step, if it has two then you have a chamber step, take your handguard off and you will be able to tell if there are flatspots under the handguard these are the notches. Look directly behind the barrel inside the chamber, the metal directly behind the barrel is either flat or round. hope this helps
-
I have a 14x1lh kit that I may be willing to part with just shoot me a pm.
-
This is just my .02 cents and it is what worked the best for me, just throwing in my suggestions. My two mistakes were using a rubber mallet with my chisel and not cutting it length ways. Doing those two things made the experience much easier. Besides I already had the dremel so cutting it off with that was the most logical choice. most pipe cutters you get at the store do not take well to forged steel, thus over tighten like I did and you chew the teeth up on the pipe cutter. These are my tips for this particular method, If you like the pipe cutter better than do what your comfortable with.
-
Cut length ways down the barrel now putting two cuts 180 degrees apart on the sides of the shroud. Just cut deep enough to get a good notched channel the whole length of the piece you are cutting off. Then take a hammer and chisel, lay the gun on the ground face the chisel at an angle so it is about 45 to 60 degrees and give it a good wack in each direction. If it does not come off then cut a little deeper. Do not use a soft mallet it just does not apply enough direct force to cause the cut lines to separate. The parallel cut is just for where you want the threading to end. The perpindicular lines are so you can knock it off without hammering directly on the barrel. If done correctly this should be no more than a 20 minute job.
For me it wasn't it took a lot of cussing and researching before I founs the proper way. I had thought about the pipe cutter but chipping teeth on it and ruining a tool just seemed like a waste of money. This method is also alot better simply because you do not have to cut that deep and if it is threaded then you have less chance of damaging threads.
-
pics once the old lady gets home with the camera. She has it with her since my daughter took her first steps today.
-
finally got done threading the muzzle today, I cant believe I was nervous about this it only took me 10 minutes once I got the die going. It has been a little bit of a long road and some dollars spent but I got exactly what I wanted, just waiting to go out and shoot it now. Huge thanks to everyone with help and suggestions, especially when I cut into the barrel while removing the shroud. I did not even see the cut once I got this thing threaded. I decided to go with a birdcage flash hider for now and see how I like it. I used the CSS kit and it worked like a charm. If anyone is in need of a threading kit for a good price just shoot me a pm and see if we cant work out something reasonable. Again huge thanks to everyone who pitched in advice and suggestions. Now I just need to go shoot this bitch.
-
1
-
-
Thats basically what I have, It is a good set-up for the money. I also have bulletguide and tapco ak mags giving me 3 more compliant parts.
-
exactly just go get one build it how you want it because believe me in the grand scheme of things the addiction takes over and you start to see what you can do with it and finally your hooked and cant stop tinkering with it. So get one and enjoy. plus it is as rugged as shit.
-
The tapco intrafuse it is a galil copy sort of with up to one bottom rail for vertical grip and 2 short notches on the side for flashlight or laser.
-
450 bucks for me including ffl transfer fee.
I dont mean a milled receiver I mean military specifications as in dimples hand guard notches no chamber step, non-threaded barrel. It was basically a military reciever converted over for civilian use to make it legal. However earlier saigas can be missing some of these attributes, it is hard to say what you get with these between these rifles.
Revolver hope you have a threaded barrel because I am sweating having to thread my barrel. I am just going to stay with the 14x1 lh pattern on mine. also i will tell you a dremel works great for me I cut longitudinal and lateral lines on the barrel and wacked them of with a steel hammer and cold chisel just get the cut deep enough to catch the edge of the longitudinal cut the thing will break off in pies. Just be sure to remember it is only 1/16 of an inch, I cut a little too deep on one side but it will get ground off during the threading process.
-
how does it shoot with it on there.
-
honestly I bought mine at mississippi auto arms and could not be happier, Mine actually turned out to be a mil-spec reciever. Dimples, no chamber step, handguard slots and all the correct markings. I could have gotten one cheaper from atlantic but truthfully maybe paying the extra 20 bucks for the mississippi one was worth it just because of the reciever in my opinion.
-
Very nice, I am going to pretty much thread right up to the fsb just in case I decide to change it in the future. How thick are crush washers usually
-
As far as number 2 is concerned, My personal preference would be the galil style handguard with rails, imho.
-
I found the easiest way was to dremel as low as possible without getting too close, then I took my regular steel hammer and a cold chisel and gave it a couple of really good wacks and it came right off. Dont use a rubber mallet,it just does not hit hard enough to break the metal.
-
Definitely helps. I had read some reviews of this for other rifles and people seemed to be pretty happy with it so this is the one I am probably going to go with.
-
Anyone have one on here and what do you think of them for the $. Also what type of spacing does it have from the fsb once the shroud is cut off. I was hoping to leave maybe a 1/16 of an inch of the old shroud or should I just go ahead and cut off the last little bit.
-
Thanks for the pics that relieves a little stress in that case with the thickness of the die even if it did not cut down that far It would still carry over and stay straight. Well tat and die set with next paycheck, any recomendations as far as a flash hider or compensater. I am trying not to spend maybe more than 30 to 40 bucks on one. Saw some really nice ones for that price on the CSS website.
-
here is a pic of the worse of the two gouges, they are both in line with each other. Sorry about the pics, all I had was my camera phone. What I really want to know is can I still thread this, will the die be able to make it over these sections or is it just not worth possibly screwing the barrel up.
tapco ak t6 stock problem
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
Posted · Edited by dashowdy
I think the t6 kit with the pistol grip is for a unconverted saiga, however I used this same kit on my conversion and it worked fine for me. you have to do a little modification on the pistol grip but the stock should work regardless. but then again I never tried it with the fcg in the original position.