TJohn
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Posts posted by TJohn
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I am assuming that your question is just a typo, you are meaning .223 and 5.56x45 right? If that is what you mean, then yes a .223 Saiga will shoot either .223 or 5.56. However, you cannot interchangeably shoot 5.45x39 Russian in a .223/5.56 Saiga.
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A guy gave me a steel 10round mag for firing blanks in a Galil rifle to try in my Saiga. It locked in without problems or modifications other than what I had already done to the rifle mentioned in the the above post. I will have to get hold of some regular steel Galil mags to see if they will work as well.
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surplus mags would not fit in mine properly. my catch was too long. I've got it stripped right now waiting on something to smash rivets with.
I purchased a second 5.45 and had to hit the mag catch just a bit with a dremmel to get the mags to lock in properly (not near as much as I did on the 7.62 though). I did not have to touch the mag catch on the first5.45 rifle at all. The 5.45's are definately the easiest to get to working with surplus mags of any of the calibers.
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I had to take a little off of the top front of each side of the smoke cirlce 10's I purchased, i.e., the front corners of the mag. I did not mess with the locking tabs on my mags at all. However, I did take a little off of the mag catch on the rifle and the back part of the magwell (interdiction tab) with a dremel on my 2006 Saiga .223. As mentioned above field strip the rifle and look at it from the open top of the receiver while inserting a mag to see where you need to work. Just take a little at a time off of the mag catch on the rifle while trying the mag frequently, so you don't remove too much material from the mag catch.
Scroll down to the picture in fig A on this website; http://dinzagarms.com/downloads/223_mag_options.pdf and that is the portion that I dremmeled to make the smoked Circle 10's work in my Saiga .223.
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I like the Bulgarian Circle 10's myself. However I did have to take a little bit of the front on each side of the mag before I could lock them into my .223.
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My 5.45 Saiga accepted surplus mags without modification, however, it would jam on the last round. Installed a bullet guide and no more problems.
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My 5.45 runs fine with East German bakelites, Circle 10 and 21 surplus mags, steel surplus mags, and Tapco mags, no complaints with any. However, I can't bring myself to give promag any more of my money.
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Not true, an uniportable cofiguration basically must comply with 922r. As soon as you add a 30 round mag, 922r applies.
"It shall be unlawful for any person to assemble from imported parts any semiautomatic rifle or any shotgun which is identical to any rifle or shotgun prohibited from importation under section 925(d)(3) of this chapter as not being particularly suitable for or readily adaptable to sporting purposes"
By putting in your 10 round mag, it becomes a sporting rifle. It is readily adaptable for sporting purposes because you can easily put in the 10 round mag.
The original poster was talking about using something greater than 10 rounds, so that would trigger 922.
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Steel doesn't expand to seal the chamber causing the blowback of the gas to get into your chamber, thus making it very tight.
Easy fix: Clean your chamber after shooting steel cased ammo.
So I went to the range yesterday and the steel cased stuff ran fine. I cleaned the rifle before i went and made sure it was lubed up, I also lightly oiled the ammo that was having the problems. Shot through ~150 rounds of it without a single problem.
I've got a couple hundred rounds of it left, I'm just going to lightly oil that stuff before I take it out to the range. After I'm done shooting that stuff I'm going to just buy brass going forward.
I am with BuffetDestroyer on this, he is 100% on about the steel cased ammo expanding and sealing the chamber different than brass cased ammo. I bet just cleaning the chamber alone done the trick, especially since you said you had no problems on your first outing. Oiling the cartridges probably wasn't necessary. Some environmental factors like humidity can affect how the carbon build up interacts with additional shooting sessions if you are not at least doing a quick cleaning after shooting. Also where are you storing your firearm? I have seen the old type zippered gun cases cause rust on guns that wouldn't have normally rusted due to drawing moisture. Different environmental factors may cause you to use a slightly different cleaning routine if you are in a humid area as opposed to a dry arid region of the country.
I know here in humid Oklahoma, I have seen the carbon build up on the gas tube on Mini 14's stick the op rod closed on them when they are shot and then stored without at least a quick wipedown of the gas tube with an oily rag, you would have to take a rubber or wooden mallet to the charging handle to break it loose.
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No problem, hoped to be of some help there.
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You might need a different gas tube and you will need a lower hand guard retainer, other than that they should work. I am sure that someone will correct me if I am wrong, I haven't worked on that end of my Saiga rifles yet. Yes, Arsenal Saiga's are basically the same thing, just don't have the holes in the receiver from having the trigger group moved foward.
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At least to me, the rifles have better ergonomics and handling with the trigger group moved forward. Watch some of the videos on the trigger conversions, really not that hard at all.
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You should get one of each, they are cheap enough right now. Then pick up and 7.62 and .308 later.
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Bullet guides aren't hard to install if you take your time and pay attention to what you are doing. Ask me how I know, lol. Use oil on the tap and go slow, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time till you feel resistence on the tap, then back off and turn again. Carolina Shooters and Dinzig have the bullet guide kits which include a good drill bit and tap along with the bullet guide and machine screw, or you can just make your own.
So you are saying, that if I install a bullet guide, I can use any standard Ak 74 mag?
Yes, that has been my experience and remember just be mindful of 922r compliance and your local and state laws, if you intend to use mags with capacities over 10 rounds. You usually dont have to mess with the mag catch on the 5.45 rifles like you do on the 7.62 and .223 versions to get the mag to fit. The 5.45 mags should pop right in. Like I said earlier mine feed all but the last round fine, so I needed the bullet guide for 100% reliable feeding.
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Do you have the source? website maybe? Thanks
For Tapco's try here: http://store.carolin...5x39/Categories.
For Bulgarian mags you might look at K-Var ( http://www.k-var.com...ome.php?cat=418 ) and Atlantic Firearms ( http://www.atlanticf...ategory145.aspx ), or Copes Distributing ( http://www.copesdist...g.net/index.php ), all are vendors here. There are other sources as well, you might have to look around a little to find any in stock or at the price point you want as they are a little scarce and pricey right now as apparently the next shipment hasn't came in yet. The steel mags were purchased local as there is a shop in a nearby town that has a good selection of rifles and surplus mags.
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Although some report that a bullet guide isn't absolutely necessary in a 5.45, I needed one in my rifle as it would feed an entire mag just fine till the last round then it would jam. Installed a bullet guide and no more problems. The polymer Bulgarian Circle 10 and 21 mags are good, and I recently picked up a couple of steel 5.45 mags which have been flawless. Tapco's have worked well for me also (haven't broke one yet) but they don't have the metal re-inforcement that the Bulgarian poly mags do at the latch points on the mag. I also have a couple of East German 5.45 bakelite mags that appear to have maybe been modified to work with 5.56/.223 rounds (have .223 etched on base plate of mag) that function just fine.
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Your just wanting the overall length from barrel tip to end of receiver right? Mine is 25 3/16 inches from tip of barrel to end of receiver where it meets the buttstock on a 2006 Saiga .223 with a 16 inch barrel, not counting the buttstock tang. The receiver itself is the same length on my .223 and .308 Saiga rifles (10 1/8 inches from where back end of forearm meets the receiver to where the buttstock meets the rear of the receiver).
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Mine is 2009, dimpled. Is the PG hole kinda square looking and located directly under the wishbone linkage thingy? If so, looks like mine has it and just covered by the trigger/handguard plate on the bottom.
That sounds right, you should be good to go, my two 2009 dimpled 7.62's had the PG hole. You should be able to see it just looking down into the receiver.
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If anything the dimples just serve to strengthen the stamped receiver, due to the large cutout area for the magwell (a way to add strength to the metal without increasing weight). I have a few Saiga's with dimpled receivers and I have checked, the mags do no touch the dimples in any of my Saigas so they don't have anything to do with fit of the mags, the mag catch takes care of that part. Plus the dimples just look better to some people.
Like ThirtyAughtSix said the velco area is where the old importer's info has been removed/covered up, I have read that there are ways to cover that up or buff it out if it bothers you. I haven't really paid any attention to mine as all my recent purchases have had that velcro looking area on them. Some even reported using the area to strike matches on, lol.
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Some brands, including K-Var/Arsenal, have stocks in both Warsaw length and Nato length, the Nato length stocks will give an extra 1 1/2 inch or so in length of pull over the Warsaw type stocks, if I recall correctly. However, I am not sure that even the Nato length stocks will be as long as the original sporter Saiga stocks.
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Agent Lemon said: "I still haven't heard any responses if everybody has to file down their G2 hammers, or if Arsenal FCGs have a lower hammer that does not snag to begin with. Anybody know?"
I have not filed down the hammer on any of the five conversions I have done using G2 trigger groups. Must just be me, other than the first pull of the bolt after installation, I cannot tell that the G2 has any more resistance than the stock Saiga hammers did. They seem to have worn in just fine.
As for sticking or snagging the carrier group, I have been able to make the carrier group stick on stock Saiga hammers when the rifles were new.
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mine was too long and over lapped over the mag.....
What mag? The factory Saiga mag or are you talking about surplus mags? There is a difference between the fit and function of surplus and factory mags once the bullet guide is installed.
I had to modify my factory mag to work once I installed the bullet guide due to the taller front lip on the factory Saiga mags that serve as their own bullet guide.
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sorry to comment on an old thread but I just received a CSS Bullet Guide for my 7.62 and it's also to wide. Would you guys still suggest on trimming it?
I slightly dremeled the edeges of mine to fit and it works fine in my flat trunnion 7.62, no problems at all. Your mileage may vary.
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Their triggers groups and retainer plates have sometimes been found to be out of spec. Also, the G2 is prone to unintentional bumpfire. That never happens with my RSA trigger.
Are these type problems recent or are they more remote, just wondering if perhaps Tapco has improved quality control, some or none?
223or 545
in Saiga .223
Posted
Getting both is always a good solution, gives a person even more options! Plus the 5.45 is a fun rifle and you won't have to monkey with the mag well to use surplus mags. Both are super easy to do the butt stock, pistol grip and trigger group conversion on. The 5.45 may be slightly less expensive to shoot even if you are just shooting non-corrosive ammo, but like you said thumbs1, you will have more options with 5.56/.223.
As for notices on posts there ought to be an option in your account settings page that you can click to receive notices.