gooseman80

This an an awesome, high quality muzzle brake I purchased at a local gun show in March of 2013 as an unissued item. I shot through it twice while mounted on my 7.62x54R Vepr and don't even remember any recoil. My grouping was so good, better than before I added the muzzle brake, that I decided to run this rifle suppressed shortly after that. I've been sitting on this muzzle brake ever since, stored in my gun safe, thinking that I would be able to use it on something else (it was that good). Years have now passed and I've been doing some house cleaning lately. I don't think I will be purchasing

So, when I usually resort to asking a question on one of my forums, it's usually a doozy. Well, maybe not this one for someone running a similar setup. So, I'm basically going to be using one of my suppressors on my Vepr. The rifle is the 23" barrel one in 7.62x54R. Suppressor is a Crux Nemesis338. Don't feel comfortable running my 30BAS in that a 308 bullet is slightly smaller than a 7.52x54R in diameter plus you never know how congruent the treading is on my barrel. My questing, do I need to worry about the increase in gas pressures and if so, what modifications to the rifle do I need

I'm currently looking for some more Barnaul SP in the Red and Green box. I'm not interested in brown bear or wolf. What I have is an inventory of Hungary 1970 Steel Core Heavy Ball with the yellow and silver tip. These rounds dried up a lot of years ago. Head stamp: 21/70. Case: steel copper washed. Bullet: 182.6 GR., spitzer boat tail, still core, silver/yellow tip, ballistic coefficient .556

I would love to have one of these for a Vepr square black model.

I wish I knew if it was a common issue as well, but at least the rifle groups well. The one thing I can say it that it is not being caused by the sight positions. I know this because I had to adjust my red dot with quite a bit of windage correction to compensate. Very, very odd indeed but I guess I'll have to live with it. At least it works right?

finishman2000, what is your tap thread size and drill bit size?

Yeah, the one YouTube video I used cracked me up when I saw the guy tap his by sticking his tap in a cordless drill. There is no way that would have worked on the hard steel on my rifle. It would have snap my #6-32NC tap like a toothpick. I can't explain that part of the vedio but I will say that it was very detailed and very helpful.

I 100% agree on the bullet guide comment. As far as the videos go making this look easy, I really don't believe they are using the correct drill bit size for their tap. Without the use of my drill press to help me, drilling and tapping would have sucked. I also used the drill press (manually hand cranking) to start the tap by the way and I finished it off with the T handle.

AK-74 Project Before: After: Materials: Saiga IZ-240 (5.45x39mm) Vortex Strike Fire Red dot (has green dot also with a good number of brightness settings including 2 NV settings, totally water proof) Killflash for Vortex (honeycomb is definitely visible with this unmagnified red dot, but is not a problem) PK-01V Russian 30mm mount (ordered from Kalinka, centers perfectly over the receiver, was a pain to mount the optics, all though I only needed 4 of the 6 screws to secure the optics to the mount, I ended up re-tapping the last two screw holes because it was not aligned en