leadchucker
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Posts posted by leadchucker
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EDM is good... if you have access to it.
A propane torch is also good. Heat the end to pale red, let cool slowly. No more hard metal.
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Primary active ingredient: Methylene Chloride.
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Acetone will de-fat skin, so it dries out and cracks. Acetone in adequate concentrations is a known carcinogen. It is in mild solution in nail polish remover. The labels have lots of warnings. Not to be taken lightly.
Acetone won't dissolve latex gloves, but it will soften them up so they leak and fall apart.
MEK, Acetone, Toluene, Methylene Chloride, Trichloroethane, Trichloroethylene, any organic solvents, can be nasty stuff. Avoid breathing the vapors, and keep it off your skin.
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The springs in a mag are under compression even when the mag is empty. If you are that worried about weakening the springs, store the mags disassembled.
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Look for a product with methylene chloride in it. That stuff will dissolve almost anything. That's the active agent in a lot of aviation paint stripper, but it is also found in some over-the-counter strippers at your local hardware store.
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from what i understand, if you reuse the trigger guard, you only get to use one bolt, instead of 2? Is that true? I don't mind little work to save some money, but only if it turns out solid and looks good. Am i missinformed?
Assuming you take care to not ruin the old trigger guard while removing it, you can heat the front end of it, and bend the mounting tab backward. It will then bolt into the existing hole behind the mag latch, just like the Tapco part.
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Reckon Izhmash would be interested in buying a few pallets of them back from us?
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Uh, the hammer is in backwards.
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Some of those kits come already modified for the BHO. If you get one of those, you'll have to make a spacer to take the place of the BHO.
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J&G Sales. $299.95 + $20.00 shipping + FFL fee. And available to Kalifornia residents. Get it at that price while you can.
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It is a prior importers stamp. Russians never throw anything away. They make no distinction between new and re-arsenaled. Some may be new and never shipped, or dealer returns. Makes no difference to them, different culture than Americans.
Could it be that the original importers put a stamp on the rifles when they imported them, but another US importer somehow acquired them, and naturally didn't want to market rifles with a competitor's stamp on them, so they obliterated the original importer's stamp and put their own on? Was the match striker done in Russia?
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I didn't like the one from Brownell's for all the reasons mentioned.
I got the one from Saiga AK instead.
It's about as close to original as you can get, and it does stay put. It even has the bracket for the sling.
You have to file the cutout into the barrel, which wasn't too difficult.
There is a good video on it here.
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...SNIP... Watch what that poor casing goes through.
Thanks! That video was educational. As I guessed the empty is hitting the dust cover. That explains why all the empties wind up in front of the firing line too. Based on that, it doesn't look like a buffer will help.
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Just curious. Does the shepherd's crook come in the Saiga's from the factory? Are the Arsenals no good because they have shepherd's crooks?
Yep, Saigas come from the factory with a shepherd's crook. Only problem is that the one that comes with the factory neutered Saiga will only fit a factory neutered Saiga. Once you drill out the trigger and lever pivots, you no longer have a place to secure it to.
Nothing particularly wrong with a shepherds crook. If I understand correctly, that's the way the original 47's and 74's came. They are just so difficult to get in correctly.
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Actually, CSS includes the plate in all the conversion kits I saw advertised, or at least they did. It came in mine. Funny thing, they also included a shepherds crook.
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I see AK muzzle brakes that screw onto 14mm threads on the barrel and are retained by Loctite or by a crush washer. And I see muzzle brakes that screw onto 24 mm threads on the FSB and are retained by a detent pin.
After reading a lot about it, I get the impression that the correct AK 74 muzzle brake mounts on the FSB. And yet, my '09 IZ 132 has a military barrel, and it is threaded. So which is more "correct" for an AK 74?
Is it possible or practical to modify the FSB on my IZ 132 to take the 24mm brake? (BTW, I do have a mill and a lathe.)
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Okay, I have seen quite a few AK's that dent up the brass like this. I've also seen quite a few people who told me that a buffer would help.
Will it?
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Those $%^*& shepherds crook again. They are difficult to get installed correctly, and easy to bend out of shape installing them. Then they don't have enough tension to stay put.
The flat metal doohickey (pin retainer plate) around eight bucks and shipping from CSS, is the real fix. You'll like it.
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Nope. I tried putting an AK jag on a Mosin cleaning rod. Won't fit. Starts maybe one turn and that's it. They are very different.
And it's definitely not 6x32. It comes from Russia. It's gotta be metric.
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Looks like one of the standard shepherd's crooks. They are a pain to put in and get out, but they work if you don't mangle them. I don't see a problem there.
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If you got the retaining plate with your kit, consider yourself lucky. That shepherd's crook as a $#@$% to get in right.
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I just finished my 7.62. I'm wanting to secure the cleaning rod in the hole underneath the barrel. I shortened it, and it slides up into the hole just fine, but I need some way to prevent it from sliding out. From pictures, I have to guess that there is something on the bayonet lug that secures the hole end of the rod. As you can see, it's a Saiga with no bayonet lugs. So, my questions.
1. What was on those bayonet lugs that held the cleaning rod in its place?
2. What is the thread diameter and pitch of the end of the cleaning rod?
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Finally got all the parts in. I think I'm done with this one. First picture of my 7.62.
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That's not too much more than the used ones I've been looking at. Thanks!
Bad bullet guide tap.
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
Posted · Edited by leadchucker
A better tap can be had, and it may well reduce your chances of breaking it. That being said, the "cheap" tap that came with the kit from CSS did the job just fine. I'm betting that the majority of kit purchasers do just fine with it.
If someone wants to use a better tap, just order the bullet guide sans tap, and procure a better quality tap of your choice.