zagumennyyilya
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Posts posted by zagumennyyilya
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If you have any questions, ask, I wish when I was starting out reloading, someone had given me good recommendations, are you buying the starter kit?
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any press is good really, its the peripherals that support your press that will make a world of difference. Most presses are very similar and all are built very tough so the press will be fine. by peripherals i mean the case prep tools, the priming method, the powder charging method, the powder scale you use, the better and faster the equipment, the easier and faster you will be able to use your press.
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looks like it doesn't matter, side mount, top mount, these rifles have mount issues.... sucks nobody makes good mounts here in the USA, there is no way anybody is gonna ship anything from good old Russia for us.
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i use very small needle nose pliers or snap-ring pliers to tighten the nut with the two holes, the cross bar is has a flat side and the only way my barreled action would fit properly is if the flat side is towards the receiver, so if you spin the side slot, it will rotate the bar and move the action, thats why is tighten the nut with the two holes and leave the other side to be flat towards receiver.
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I have no idea, but I always wondered what it was for, mosin nagants have something similar and that is for the recoil lug but who knows.
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If you have never reloaded in your life, start with a single stage press and learn the processes involved in making a round, then do some load development and make a recipie from the books as always, and then, get the progressive and load in quantity. Otherwise you jump in and have to set up all the precceses at once before you know them.
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please save all of that brass, that is premium factory sized 7.5 french brass. The best kind to reload.
If you are looking to reload all the different kinds of calibers that you have in your arsenal, or will be getting more odd ball calibers, then get yourself a reloading setup.
The reloading setup does not have to cost a lot of money to be effective and good. Get a basic reloading press. They can be anywhere from $100 and up, when you go to the reloading area in the store, look around, not just at all the reloading stuff they have up front and center, a lot of reloading presses that are not the major name brand and not expensive are sitting on the bottom shelf, or somewhere out of the way. One of the least expensive is the RCBS partner press, It will do everything you need it to and is only about $70. The press is the core of the reloading station, Next are all the other items that determine how fast, how easy and how expensive you want to go.
Case Prep, This area can get expensive depending how good and how fast you want the job done, in case prep you need to trim the case if it requires it, you need to chamfer the inner and outer edge of the case mouth, and remove the military crimp for the primer if it has one. Best bet would be to get a case prep center that has the attachments motorized and takes a few seconds to do each case, they are expensive but well worth the hassle you save yourself and the time. Otherwise you have to do each step to each case individually. If you have a ton of cases, that will make you life a nightmare.
Case Cleaning, This area is similar to the case prep area in how fast and how clean you want your brass to be. I got myself a wet stainless steel pin rotary tumbler and that is the best by far. I had the vibratory and the sonic cleaners and they don't do as good of a job as I want them to. The cases come out cleaner than they do from the factory, the primer pockets are spotless and the case is clean inside and out. The choice is yours a vibratory cleaner is only around $70 bucks.
Powder charging. Just like the other areas the faster and easier you want it, the more expensive it will be. The best are the electric charging machines that dispense each charge with a push of the button, I dont have one but i want one, but you don't have to be expensive and some cheap ones are actually good.
If you really want to reload, look at some youtube videos, there are some very knowledgeable people and videos, that will help you a lot.
my estimate is that a decent setup will be around $350 bucks. If you have specific questions ask, people will be more than happy to help you out.
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The FMJ ammo you have, is it brass cased or steel? What kind of primer dies that ammo have? Berdan or Boxer primer? If you are willing to pay for the reloading dies, I can load up some ammo for you, and your bullet selection is unlimited due to the 7.5 French round using .308 bullets.
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so i just looked up some info, if you buy the reloading dies which are $31.00, and you can use the 308 diameter bullets, it would be possible to load up some new ammo for this rifle, the question is how much and how badly do you want to use your rifle. would you be willing to invest in a steady source of ammo or is this a one time thing?
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Can you give us the cartrige designation like 7.62x51, so we know what it is and if there are reloading dies available for it, I have reloading equipment and can load some up for you if you give me what cartrige it is.
its the 7.5x54 french?
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For slung over the shoulder a scope with 3-9x36 or similar will be perfect, even a 2-7x32 will be just fine, and buy the rings once you have gotten the scope in hand, because there is no way to predict what height you need until you have the scope with you. A scope with duplex or with a ballistic drop chart would be best in my eyes, leave the bigger and more fancy scopes for the Remington, What are the 3 you have chosen?
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My guess is that with handloads or match ammo this rifle will be very accurate indeed, but with spam can ammo you will get the usual, 4-6 inch goups.
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Here is what I wanted out of my rifle and what works for me.
I wanted to shoot from a portable bench to get the smallest groups possible out of my rifle, I also wanted to shoot at 500 yards and beyond, I do not have the top mount, I have the side mount but that is moot, whatever suits you is what matters. with my side mount I tried a burris fullfield 2 scope with 3-9x36 i think, and it had a ballistic reticle and had a 1" tube. that setup is good for running around the woods with the rifle slung over your shoulder, the 3-9 zoom is more than enough for taking shots without support and shooting game at any distances up to 500 yards. The scope isnt too big and heavy and it is possible to mount it with lower rings to get a decent cheek/chin weld.
Next to assist me in obtaining my original goal of shooting smallest groups from a bench at long ranges, I turned in that scope and got myself a burris M-tac 3.5-10x42 scope with mil reticle and mil turrets. This scope has a 30mm tube. The scope is bigger and i had to modify my side mount to accommodate the scope and my mission, to remove the top cover without removing the scope mount from the rifle, thus the rifle sits fairly high and without a pad there isnt even a chin weld. but the scope is perfect for shooting the smallest goups at 100 yards and shooting long ranges from a bench. The reticle and turrets are both in mils and i will be able to dial in the dope for any ammo i reload.
So, list what it is you want from your rifle, and pick the scope and rings that will accommodate your desires.
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What type of shooting do you want to do with your rifle? Since you are new think about that, Do you want to run around the woods with the rifle slung over your shoulder? or do you prefer setting up a portable bench and shooting for the smallest groups possible? Do you intend to shoot the rifle at long ranges? or mostly closer work? list what you want to do and we will gladly give our opinions on what scope and rings would work best for us in that situation.
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ya, its about time people know the truth about these guns, they are great guns but require a little bit of TLC to make them shine.
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for iron sights, that was what I got as well, I have a metal gong the size of the largest orange circle and I hit it every time with irons at 100. I used to have the german DAG ammo and now I ran out, I don't get more because its berdan primed and I cant reload it. The groups are smimlar to the wolf steel cased ammo by the way.
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Has anyone slugged their barrel to see what the exact bore dimensions are?
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The great thing about these rifles is that there are limitless opportunities to make it your own, in my eyes I tuned it and made it better, it will never be match grade for me, so I am satisfied with this level of tuning, if you require more customuzation it's great that there are options available, let us know how the RSA will be. I wanted one on my saiga 308 and then sold it and moved to the supers.
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I hope the RSA would not need any work to it as you are paying money for it and it should be perfect. I just like to the original trigger so much, two stage, one the Newer rifle, there is about 75% take up and then you hit the second stage and it is a crisp release. On the Older rifle the take up is about 55-60% but still the great second stage and crisp release, And with the grease and the trigger polishing itself it is just smooth as butter. by the way, you can do this to any ak type of trigger.
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yes i did, but i think the fiberglass is there merely to strengthen the wood, the wood is quite thin in that area. purhaps the rubber would work better, i havent tried it. I just went with what i read about the cork, I will do further testing to see how it plays out.
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These groups are now done with the older rifle, I had done the same mods to both of them, triggers smoothed out and cork under the barrels. This is a 50 yard sight in with the last of my Hornady 150 grain FMJ-BT with 44 grains of IMR 4895. I shot 3 rounds and then adjusted the scope for the final 2 shots.
This is with Sierra 168 same sequence as the newer rifle, starting load 39 grains and ending with 43 grains of Reloader 15 powder,
Older rifle, Sierra 168, 40 grains of powder,
Now 41 grains
42 grains
43 grains
Again, the groups seem to be opening up as the powder charge increases, but less pronounced than the newer rifle, this may be because I put less sheets of cork between the stock and the barrel on the olde model then on the newer model, I had 9 sheets on the newer model and only 7 sheets on the older model. Thats my guess.
This is comparing the groups of the Newer rifle before the mods done to it and after the mods, the bullet was the Sierra 168 grain HP-BT match king, and the powders are different but supposedly not too far off velocity wise according to the reloading manual. I see an imporovement, looking at all the targets i have of before and after, to me there is.
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Newer rifle at 100 yrds with Sierra 168 grain HP-BT match king with 39 grains of Reloader 15 Powder, the 4 shots nice group and then I have no idea what happened, maybe my fault, I jerked when i fired.
Newer rifle at 100 with the Sierra 168 bullet now with 40 grains of Reloader 15.
Newer rifle at 100 with Sierra 168 bullet now with 41 grains of Reloader 15.
Newer rifle at 100 with Sierra 168 now with 42 grains of Reolader 15.
Newer rifle at 100 with Sierra 168 with 43 grains of Reloader 15. you see a pattern now, more powder and the groups grow in size.
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The older rifle has the round ported compensator on the end and the newer import has the slant cuts, the older rifle has a softer recoil pulse and I can get back on target quicker and sometimes I can even see the impact through the scope. The newer slant cuts really do nothing for me.
This is the newer rifle and a 50 yard sight in using a Hornady 150 grn. fmj-bt bullet behind some IMR 4895, 44 grns.
This is the newer rifle at the 100 yard with some Speer 125 grn TNT varmint bullets and they never did any good in any of my rifles
Newer rifle at 100 yards using Hornady 150 grn fmj-bt with 44 grns IMR 4895.
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I bedded the super barrel to the stock to have even pressure on the forearm and worked on the trigger to make it feel nice and smooth, and now I took the rifle to see the results of my work. Let me tell you, I am satisfied with how the rifle shoots. Before, I had no idea if it was me, a crummy shooter, a bad scope, bad scope mount setup, improperly loaded ammo, or shitty rifle. Well look for yourselves. The rifle is showing improvement and I like it.
This is my setup and my shooting bench.
The distance is a paced out 110 yards or meters so give or take 10 yards.
I shot both of my rifles and on the targets I have written down which rifle and what ammo did what.
What's the horizontal stock screw for?
in Vepr "SUPER"
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To be honest, that is a very lame recoil lug screw setup, when the rifle recoils, the action is what will be pushing rearward, so during firing, the action will be pulling away from the stock horizontally, on the mosin nagant, there is a lug off the barrel that rests in front of the screw not behind, so i really don't get how the screw can even work as a recoil lug screw.