mrmatrix911
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Posts posted by mrmatrix911
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I don't understand how a dust cover rail with optics mounted can work out. My dust cover has a little bit of play in it. Plus wouldn't removing the dust cover and replacing it cause loss of zero?
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if you use loctite the barrel nut is superfluous.
I did notice one other thing... When I would attach the Shark Brake w/o barrel nut it would appear that my barrel extend too deep or far forward into the Shark Brake. I would think this may effect the performance somewhat. Maybe more so if you were using it for door breaching. (Not that I see myself breaching doors)
So if I back off the brake there are threads exposed on my barrel. I would say the barrel nut serves well to cover that "excess" up.
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Get a barrel nut for it. You can lock it in any position. CSS has them as other places. http://store.carolin...2-BARREL/Detail
It doesn't take up any room the way it installs. Maybe just 1/16th of an inch.
Got the barrel nut. PROBLEM SOLVED pretty much instantly! I wasn't feeling like going the lock tite route. Although I'm not totally against that idea. Still I like the idea that I can remove this brake and add a new one easily.
Might I suggest option #3... Get the barrel nut AND use lock tite if you're fully committed.
I figured I would come back to post an update on how the barrel nut worked out for me. It turns out that the problem was not completely solved. The barrel nut allowed me to align my muzzle brake properly and easily. However, after a day at the range the muzzle brake and barrel nut loosened up somewhat.
I want to note that I did not use any tools to tighten the brake and nut down. I hand tightened as best I could. Maybe it only holds well when cinched down with a tool. In the end I applied Loctite Thread Locker (BLUE 242) to the muzzle brake.
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Everyone has mentioned painting parts black. I'm just looking to use a very small amount of red and white paint on some parts. Does the Dupli-color or any of the other paints come in white and red? Also, any chance they sell them in small spray cans since I won't be using much if it?
PERFECT! Thank you very much.
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Everyone has mentioned painting parts black. I'm just looking to use a very small amount of red and white paint on some parts. Does the Dupli-color or any of the other paints come in white and red? Also, any chance they sell them in small spray cans since I won't be using much if it?
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Get a barrel nut for it. You can lock it in any position. CSS has them as other places. http://store.carolin...2-BARREL/Detail
It doesn't take up any room the way it installs. Maybe just 1/16th of an inch.
Got the barrel nut. PROBLEM SOLVED pretty much instantly! I wasn't feeling like going the lock tite route. Although I'm not totally against that idea. Still I like the idea that I can remove this brake and add a new one easily.
Might I suggest option #3... Get the barrel nut AND use lock tite if you're fully committed.
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Intro:
Your Saiga is made in the same plant, by the same people, and on the same lines as all Russian AK's. The 74's, the AKMs, the 100 series, etc, are all made at Izhmash, the Russian factory where Mr. Kalashnikov still works. Yes, the man that designed the AK-47 still works there. Now look on the side of your gun, it says Izhmash on it and has their arrow in a triangle symbol. Now is when you can crack an evil smile.
Importation/Legality:
In order to be imported into this country, it had to be neutered. It had to be in "sporting configuration" to be importable by law. That is why all the cool guns are made in the United States, or imported in a neutered form, or totally unavailable. The Saiga is only imported at this time, so they all start out with a conventional stock manner, which is NOT the way they are supposed to be configured. They put a plate over the trigger hole on the bottom of your receiver. Underneath that plate is the trigger, which has the lever part where your finger would go removed, it is just the mechanical portion of it left behind. So your trigger/sear, disconnector, and hammer are all in place where they should be. The problem is that the trigger you actually pull is connected to a bar... and that bar pulls the actual trigger. Ridiculous? OH YEAH. But it is how they have to import them thanks to our laws. It is 100% legal by Federal law to "convert" your Saiga to regular AK setup, which is quite easy to do. It is just removal of two pins, and your fire control group, which just slide in and out. The pins you need to remove are rivets though, so you have to grind their ends off to push them out. Then you need to get a trigger guard, either screw on or weld on, and put on your new furniture.
Some states, I know Connecticut and New York are in this group, still have elements of the 1994 gun ban in their state laws. They say that any semi auto magazine fed shotgun cannot have a pistol grip below the receiver of the gun. Ruins your plans I bet. Well it didn't ruin mine. You can put on a one piece skeleton stock or thumbhole stock to get around that and still get great ergonomics.
Once you do this, OR attach a magazine of over 5, at 10, or over 10 round capacity? edit this out later, you are putting your gun in a "non-sporting configuration". This means you have to comply with Federal law 922r. Yes, this means if you saw a gun store with a 12 round Surefire mag in their gun, they were breaking federal law. Seriously. Don't use it until you have the right American made parts in your gun, or you could go to jail. I'm not joking, and I am not mistaken.
922r:
This law states that you cannot have more than 10 imported parts within a list of parts that are important. Check this website for easy check on this:
922r worksheet: http://www.thegunwik...erifyCompliance
If you want to use higher capacity magazines on your Saiga shotgun, you have to replace other parts to make it legal by Federal law. Might as well convert, buddy. You're going to be replacing stuff anyway.
Ok, that's all well and good... but WHY SHOULD I CONVERT?
Upside:
~Removes complication from your fire control group.
~Improves every aspect of trigger pull. You get lighter pull, less friction, better feel, less slack, etc etc etc. Pulling a trigger rather than pulling a lever that tilts a bar that pulls the real trigger isn't the best setup.
~Puts the gun in the configuration that was intended.
~Improves ergonomics.
~Cuts the length of your gun by 4-5 inches. You also get to pick your Length of Pull by choosing from all the AK stocks in the world, which vary from American use (long) to Asian use (short).
~Puts the center of gravity closer to your body, making the gun more controllable.
~It will point better.
~It will aim faster.
~Recoil will be handled better.
~Some find a pistol grip makes getting back on target much easier and faster. I am one of those. So is every military on the planet.
~You get to use high capacity magazines such as the MD-20 20 round drum with no legality issues from the Federal government.
~If you do it yourself, you'll get some pride and a detailed knowledge of how everything works.
~You get in the secret club. We'll teach you the handshake later.
~And finally, chicks dig it.
Downside:
~The parts do cost money.
~The labor either costs money or your own time.
~There are only two downsides.
~Stop looking for a downside.
I have been reading over the 922 issues and I am confused. I need help to understand what I can and need to modify on my new Saiga to make it legal. Below is a picture of the Saiga I bought this past weekend....I had them add the quad rails while I was there. It came with a 5 round mag but they also gave me a 10 round mag.
I want to make sure it is legal so I need to know what I need to do to it... Last night I ordered this Tapco Intrafuse stock set which I understand is fine because it was made in USA....
http://dpharms.com/p...28black~29.html
as well as this Phantom flash hider which was also made in USA .... http://dpharms.com/p...lash_hider.html
so once I recieve those and change out the butt factory stock and put on the Intrafuse then add the flash hider on my saiga, how many imported parts will I have and are there any others that I need to modify? I am a newbie and I need clarifications. I really appreciate it
Amanda
I forget where that info is on how many compliant parts you have to change out. I think it's only 4 parts that must be changed into US made parts BEFORE you can change the butt stock to a pistol grip or move the fire control group or add a forward vertical grip.
It sounds like you have 3 US made parts so far. You know that buying any US made magazine equals 3 922 compliant parts. The magazine body, the follower, and the floor plate. Swap out the gas puc for a US made one. Attach a new muzzle brake/flash hider.
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FULLY convert my S-12? But I'm scurred. What if I saw my hands AND my gun in half!? Ha, j/k
I put this off and already put a quite a bit of $ into mine. I should have made this step #1
Anyone have a recommendation on which fire control group would be best to install? I would be willing to spend a little extra on top quality parts that increase reliability.
I like to think of every little work I do with my Saiga as a mini adventure
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My Tromix Shark Brake had problems fitting onto my barrel threads. I used CLP, then brushed both brake and barrel, wiped clean, applied Rem Oil and eventually got it on. It was a tight fit and the ports lined up perfet. I removed and replaced it a few times, but recently I've replaced it and now the little port holes face to the left when tightened. I can back it off to line the ports to face up, but the brake is loose that way. Should I just apply lock tite or is there another issue that needs to be addressed here?
Newb with a tromix shark brake WTF question
in Saiga-12
Posted
From what I've read on the forums (and packaging), the Red 271 is rated as permanent high strength. That means once it sets, it can only be removed by heating with a torch and using tools to break the bond.
Hey Bob,
I'm glad I can count on Loctite holding up, but you never answered my question...
I did notice one other thing... When I would attach the Shark Brake w/o barrel nut it would appear that my barrel extend too deep or far forward into the Shark Brake. I would think this may effect the performance somewhat. Maybe more so if you were using it for door breaching. (Not that I see myself breaching doors)
So if I back off the brake there are threads exposed on my barrel. I would say the barrel nut serves well to cover that "excess" up.
You don't think that would take away any functionality of the muzzle brake?