nukeme70
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Posts posted by nukeme70
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I ran across a reference to this in the VEPR 7.62x54r section (http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/83001-23-762x54r-vepr-with-bolt-hold-open/) - there's a trick to getting any AK rifle to do BHO. I've tried it with my VEPR and with my S-12 and it worked with both (even though I have the factory BHO on the S-12).
There's a spot when charging the system, right after pulling back just past the trigger, where you can pull the trigger and it locks the bolt back. The first time I tried this, I was pretty skeptical, as I seemed to luck into finding the right spot. After trying it several times I got the hang of it, and seems to be the only way to go with the VEPR, and possibly a decent solution for the S-12s that don't have a factory BHO.
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Even though it has an actual BHO feature, I tried the above trick on my Saiga-12...worked on it as well.
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Well, I played around a bit more tonight, and was able to consistently get the bolt to stay open. I would still find myself fishing around trying to find the sweet spot to get things to drop in place, and I think if I had a full magazine I probably would eject 1-2 trying to do this.
I think it's a worthy thing to do, especially if you frequent those ranges that insist on an open bolt during cease fire...
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I got mine to do this...once. From the pissmeoff factor, I'm guessing that this is a happy bonus for some, but not an actual design feature.
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Mine came in today - furniture is not too bad, no cracks. Very rough, in that it's obvious they used some sort of electric carving tool to rough out the shape of the pistol grip and stock. Hand guard is pretty smooth, and a quick fine sanding will take care of that. There is a chunk out of the base of the pistol grip where a knot was - might have to try some wood putty or just wrap the base in something. The stock seems to be walnut and the handguard seems to be a lighter wood, both in color and density. I'm hoping they color-match when I hit them with some linseed oil once everything is sanded nicely. I have an ATI Dragunov-type stock lying around that I'm going to throw on while I work on the wood stock. Hopefully I can get her out and feed her sometime soon, she seems hungry!
Quick pic next to my Saiga-12:
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Aaaaaand...they're out. Looks like they were dumping their inventory, as the model number is listed as discontinued. I got worried when I saw that and called to make sure my order got in, as the status hadn't changed. I was assured that mine was going out the door that day.
I'm actually looking forward to working on the crappy, unfinished stock. One of the things I liked about this rifle was how nice the furniture (on the legit ones) looked.
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Been watching these for a while - got the email with the catalog and price drop... had to (wait for it...) pull the trigger on one. Hopefully I'll have it in hand by the end of the week - crappy, unfinished stock and all.
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FYI, I've picked up a digital caliper off of Amazon for ~$7 and it works great. It is also handy because it can read in metric or imperial. Incredibly handy tool. It must be good enough for the big boys, because I saw the exact same model and brand in several pictures that Tromix uploaded for prototypes a while ago. The point is that while some cheap crap is cheap crap, some of it is pretty good.
Make? Model?
Harbor Freight has some decent cheapo calipers: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-digital-caliper-47256.html
These are featured quite often in their monthly/weekly ads with a coupon that knocks them down to under $10.
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Howdy all!
First off, I'd like to throw out compliments to this site for being THE go-to place for Saiga information. Also would like to apologize for the length of this post...
I received my S-12 a couple months ago (right before all the crazy happened), and have been adding accessories since then. My timing has been spot on - I got my MD-20 the night before EVERYONE was sold out, got my conversion kit from CSS before they were all gone, etc.
Anyway, I haven't actually done the conversion yet, so the gun is effectively still stock (except for the exact amount of US made parts to allow me to use the drum). I finally got the chance to run some ammo downrange today and wanted to share some of my impressions and see if they match up with ya'lls and also throw out some questions that I haven't seen answered.
I started off running each of my 5-round magazines (1 stock Saiga, 3 from KeepShooting.com), followed by the MD-20. These were all loaded with PMC High Velocity 00 Buck. The magazines all fired flawlessly. The drum had a couple stove-pipes in the first 4-5 rounds, then the rest of the drum ran fine. From this, I gather that I need to polish/adjust the feed ramp, or maybe loosen the spring a bit on the drum.
Next, I loaded up the magazines with Wally World Winchester bird-shot to see if that cycled fine. No luck with the first magazine (consistent FTE), so I dialed the regulator to 2 and tried a second magazine. Same issue on every round. Next, I ran the regulator out one full turn - still on 2 but out 1 thread. Same issue. I have all 4 gas ports open (stuck a dental pick through each), though I'm not sure of the diameter, and don't really want to pull the gas tube. From this I gather that a polish of the bolt is in order.
Some general questions/observations.
Does this gun always shoot this dirty? I was surprised at just how much crud was present in the gas tube and the barrel when I cleaned it. I had to use the cleaning rod to push out the gas puck because it wasn't moving on it's own. I don't know if this is just how it is, or if the ammo I used was just very dirty. I'm wondering if the dirt might be part of the reason the low brass didn't cycle.
Would it be a fair assumption that any place showing bare metal from wear would be a good candidate for minor polishing/smoothing?
The exhaust port on the left side of the gas block exits inside the stock hand grip. If I went with a smaller grip that left the port exposed, do I run the risk of having a geyser of hot gasses toasting my hand?
When I was cleaning things, I noticed a bunch of scoring marks circling around the gas regulator. At first I thought the were just a continuation of the threads that had been sanded down almost smooth, but they were just score marks. I don't remember seeing them there before first shot, but I wasn't really looking either. Is this normal, and if so, at what point (if any) should I get concerned that they might be affecting performance?
Thank you all in advance!
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I would not mess with the inside of the gas block, if ya make it to big you will be looking for a new gas block.
As far as how things work, the puck does the first push to unlock the bolt lugs, from there,
well I say some gas and some recoil makes the rest happen.
Now I know some one will come in and clear things up as how it all works.
I recently purchased my S-12...haven't shot it yet but I've taken it apart a couple times, and I was hoping for a bit more explanation on how things work. The puck only looks to have about 1" of travel or less, and then seems to block the gas from going down the gas tube. Even if the expanding gasses get past the puck, the BCG seems to have a lot of clearance around it to allow the gasses to pass by.
I guess my questions would be:
What drives the BCG the 3"-4" needed to cycle everything? I've seen a lot of discussion of FTE and a lot of focus on the gas ports and the gas puck - but if the puck essentially just unlocks the bolt lugs and starts everything, it would seem that the ports and puck would be a minor player.
Where do the spent gasses from the gas ports exhaust to? Are they forced back through the ports once the shot has left the barrel?
Does the puck in fact block the ported gasses from going down the gas tube, and if not, do they just vent out the ejection port/dust cover?
Thanks all - lots of great information here!
Official NO MORE SAIGA 12's Imported thread.
in Saiga-12
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My sister shot me once..........once.