SGL
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Posts posted by SGL
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Go/no-go gauges are only designed for setting headspace on a new rifle. If the no-go gauge will chamber in a working rifle that originally wouldn't chamber a no-go when it was built, that doesn't necessarily mean that headspace is bad, that just means it is showing some wear. There is also a "field" gauge that is used to check for headspace that is beyond the service limit for a used rifle. If the field gauge will chamber, the rifle should not be considered safe to fire.
Thanks for sharing this. I always wondered about the purpose of a field gauge.
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I'm sorry Slim. That's a very unique pain that only those that have experienced can really relate to.
While it's not the same level of tragedy as a person dying, it can hurt just as bad. The hurting will stop and eventually be replaced with fond memories and a smile when you think of him.
The little guy was lucky to be able to spend his last years with you and I'm sure you brought each other lots of joy..
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PM Sent
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This guy has quite a few good videos and is a member over at the AK files. I was surprised to see how tight the go-gauge actually was. I've never built a rifle or used these gauges but I would have assumed that if it was this hard to close on a go-gauge that it would be an indicator of a problem.
I don't know enough to tell you if all the info in the video is accurate, but I found this interesting so I figured at least a few of you would as well.
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It's probably not what you want to hear, but I would recommend selling it before modifying it. You'll take a loss, but you can put the funds towards one of the MDArms drums.
They won't be available forever and you'll be really glad you made the upgrade while you had the chance.-
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P.S. When I say I shoot "fine" with a pistol, that's definitely relative. Tooth & Nail's ferris wheel steel target video had my jaw dropping and made me realize that I need to put the shotgun down spend more time at the range with a pistol.
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Two words.
Eye dominance.
This is exactly it. In most people, one eye is at least slightly better than the other. Your brain picks up on this and selects it as the dominant eye. There are lots of tests that you can look up to determine which eye is dominant.
I'm a lefty in most things in life, but have always shot a rifle right handed. It wasn't a conscious choice, it's just how I used to shoot my BB gun as a kid and the way I've always done it since. I only found out about eye dominance later in life.
I have also pondered and been grateful for the OP's points about being able to use my coordinated hand for mag changes and other manipulations. I feel that this gave me a big advantage learning to rock & lock S12 magazines in the beginning but have since gotten to the point where it is pretty natural with either hand.
Strangely though, it always felt more natural to shoot a handgun with my left hand so that's how I've always done it. With a pistol, it just takes a slight turning of my head to the left to get my big nose out of the way and I shoot just fine with my right eye and left hand.
Find what works for you and roll with it, but take some time to practice both pistol and rifle with your "bad hand" as it's a worthwhile skill to have.
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Frog lube is one of the few that actually has lived up to claims when tested.
It's worked great for me. I'm over here on the wet side of the state and I frequently shoot in the rain. I've never had any rust on any firearms that have been treated with Froglube, but I don't neglect them either. The only issue I've had with it was when applying too much of it in the beginning. If you do that and leave it to sit for multiple months, it tends to get a little sticky. It's not tacky enough to slow down an AK or a Glock, but could potentially cause issues in more finicky firearms. This can easily be remedied by heating the surface again which causes the lube to go right back to its original consistency. Of course, if you wipe off all the excess like you're supposed to, this is a non-issue.
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We're probably sailing off on a tangent here, but my main reason for paying the premium for Froglube is the non-toxic nature of it.
I think this crowd tends to handle their guns a lot and whatever you use for corrosion resistance will end up on your skin and then into your bloodstream.This little choice probably won't make a big difference overall, but modern society is full of toxic chemicals and it's probably smart to take the opportunity to remove a few of these sources when it's reasonable to do so. I know that there are mechanics that spend their lives with black motor oil soaked hands, but I wouldn't be surprised to find that cancer rates are higher for those guys. Little things like this all add up, especially with all of the other questionable compounds we're exposed to on a daily basis.
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If you have access to the email account on file with the forum, just logout and then use the "Forgot Password" feature. Click the link circled in red and the forum will send you an email with a link that will allow you to change your password without knowing the old one.
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This is my some of my favorite buckshot at a great price.
175 Rounds of Federal XM127 in a 50 cal can for $109.00 shipped at Woodbury Outfitters.
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I had a vision of someone surfing with a slung Saiga 12 when I read that
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Is it eye dominance that prompted you to make the switch?
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I'm not sure as I've never had wood furniture that I wasn't able to easily remove, so I always just pulled it and dried from there.
The wood itself should be fine, but it may hold moisture up against the metal. Maybe you should look into some polymer furniture just for hunting and keep the nice wood for playing dress up in the off season? Then again, it will probably be fine either way.-
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I'll start out with the obligatory... your shotgun is fine. I have had at least as many trips with rain as I have without. It will not rust instantly on you but if it does get wet, it does need to be dried out as soon as it is reasonable to do so. My preferred method is a hair dryer. Your goal with it is not really the airflow, but heating up the parts to the point where they dry themselves. This will get the water out from between the receiver in places like the side rail and trunnions. Get the gun and parts hot, but you should keep them in a range where you can still handle them for a few seconds without burning yourself.
Once everything is nice and hot...let it sit and then check the tight spaces on the gun for any remaining water. While it is still warm, take advantage of this by applying your favorite oil or other corrosion inhibitor. Froglube works great for this but there are a lot of great choices. You can coat the whole thing paying special attention to the areas mentioned before. The heat coming off of the metal parts will thin the oil and allow it to get into all of the little nooks and crannies, making it more rain proof for the next trip in bad weather. Wipe off the excess and it's now stable, and you can clean it at your leisure, or store it and take it out again.
I'll even do this sometimes after shooting when it is really cold as bringing cold metal into a warm house often leads to condensation which can be just as bad as rain because it's easier to forget about.
Sometimes it's hard for people to embrace the fact that these are hardy Russian tools that were built to stand up to more than we'll ever put them through, but once you do you'll appreciate the gun more, and for all the right reasons.
Edit: Fixed Typo
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These are really well built and probably a bit tougher than the RD model.
http://www.carolinashooterssupply.com/VLTOR_RE_47_AK47_STOCK_ADAPTER_TUBE_SAIGA_p/vltor-aktube.htm
+1 on Carolina Shooter's Supply. Always great to deal with, good prices and super fast shipping. One of my favorite vendors.
(use code turkey2015 to save 12% - ends today)-
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That's a great accomplishment. She should be very proud and I hope it's a big success.
Be sure to make another post when the movie deal comes through.
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Exactly. I'm not sure how well it works in practice, but it's a clever solution.
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How is it supposed to work?
The top edge of the latch that contacts the rear lug of the magazine is at an angle instead of being flat across the top.
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Thanks SG, i appreciate it. Im super picky on how I clean my weapons. And it bothers me that someone let one go like that. Took it out for the first time today and it sang like an opera queen. Damn I love the chunky 7.62 round...
Well now I feel retarded. Its the gas piston...not the gas tube. sheesh..beat me with a hammer
No problem. Just hit it with a scotch brite pad and some oil. If it comes off (and it probably will) then you have an easy fix.
If it doesn't, it's not going to hurt anything in the slightest.
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It will be just fine. If it bothers you, a gas tube is a cheap and easy to replace part.
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....wanting something, creates a more powerful feeling than having something
Ain't that the truth!
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I think that they have a rough road ahead of them working out their QC. Century is a bigger company with a larger budget and they have been struggling with working out these issues on their rifles. Even if KC ends up putting out a quality product down the road, I think Russian rifles will always be more collectible and demand a premium, especially if the sanctions remain in place long term. I would hold on to those Saigas if I were you. If you're really itching to sell them but can wait, they will probably be going for a lot more this time next year.
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Hopefully what you found is that you need to reduce the width of the hammer in the area that the axis pin goes through.
2 Tax stamps????
in General Discussion - Any topic is welcome here!!!
Posted
I'm not a lawyer but the way I understand it, the can is registered and taxed just like the firearm. A rifle with a barrel shorter than 16" with a can on it would require two stamps.
On the plus side, this means that once you have the stamp for the can, you could use the can on multiple rifles without any additional paperwork.
Again, I'm just basing this off of what I've read online, so be sure to do your own research or talk with a lawyer than specializes in this stuff before taking any action. Of course anyone here is welcome to jump in and correct me if I misunderstood something.