MuddyTRD

Thanks, I'm going to try to grind some off the cheap mount I have now. Those regulate ones look good but if I have to grind anyways I'll risk the cheap one.

I have a QD scope mount that attaches to the factory side rail on a S12. I currently have to remove my ace stock and side folding block to install or remove the scope mount, as it hits on the hinge. Is there a QD mount out there that slides on from the front so I don't need to remove bolts to get the QD mount off? Other option would be to switch the stock to fold right instead of left, can the firearm still be used with the stock folded to the right? I don't have the shotgun hand to explore that option.

Its an xps2 on a cheap left side mount, but it's pretty centered. If it was offset to the left I could see that working better. Its fine with high brass but catches a low brass every once in a while. Was doing it lots until I slid it back as far as I could. I don't like how it mounts anyways, I have to take the side folder off to get the QD scope mount on and off.

I'm going to need to retune the auto plug anyways, some of the FTE issues I was getting I believe were from the low brass catching the edge of the eotech. Going to put a primary arms red dot on and run the screw out until it acts up, then back in.

I'm not sure how far away it throws a high brass 2 3/4 shells, I've been shooting at the local range which is boxed in. I would say that they go far enough to bounce outside and forward instead of back towards me. Low brass is inconsistent and at $25/100 that is what I expect. I'll have to check distance next time I shoot.

Thanks for the replies. It didn't get that dirty from the buckshot it was the 200+ rounds of low brass the other day setting up the auto plug. I would estimate it to be about a half a turn out from flush.

I have a S12 that is pretty much stock other than being converted. 19" barrel, with a TAC47 auto plug. Got it tuned in, other than my eotech causing FTEs it seems to run really well. After patterning out a bunch of buckshot and running through some slugs all 2 3/4", I took it apart today to clean. I can tell the bolt comes back and contacts the area that the spring slides into from the way the residue is "cleaned off". I'm paranoid about overgassing and damaging something, so I grabbed a few pictures. It doesn't appear to be hitting hard enough to be causing damage, but this was only after 20

Another tip, if possible thread the nut on before cutting the bolt. After cutting, threading the nut off will also help clean up the threads. Or just bring the offending bolts to a hardware store and match them up.

I couldn't resist tinkering around and ordered an auto plug. Might be protection I don't need or might even make things worse, time will tell. If nothing else its an excuse to go to the range this weekend. For what its worth I can't run Winchester bulk only federal, goal would be to run both.

Forgot to mention its a 4 hole gun that has not had the gas system modified in any way.

Ok I have a Saiga 12 all converted, runs cheap federal 100 round box stuff great on setting 1 on the gas plug. My concern is that when I shoot high brass 2 3/4" stuff on the same setting that it might be overgassing the gun. I haven't found any evidence whatsoever of this happening, and I bought it used from someone that only shot high brass stuff in it. No denting no peening nothing on it at all. Should I count myself lucky or am I most likely just on the edge of pounding the snot out of things on setting one? I am tempted to leave well enough alone, but wanted to go with a hands free ad

OK thanks. If cutting it down 1" caused as much trouble with cycling as chopping it 5" then it wouldn't be worth it compared to going for the SBS route. How about accuracy/pattern at 18"? Any noticeable difference?

I'm looking to have the barrel of my saiga 12. I am thinking about cutting it down to 18" instead of 19". My question is if its worth it for the trouble it might cause with cycling? Maybe cutting it down to barrel + flash hider = 18"? Or is it all more trouble than its worth?

I was going to try #2 with the Winchester, and couldn't find my screwdriver. That's the biggest reason for me to get a new gas plug, no tools needed.

I've read similar back and forth on that, but I have yet to find evidence of overgassing. I have a buffer from an AK kicking around I'm going to throw in and try some high power stuff and see if its hitting the buffer.

Nope setting 1 runs anything I have thrown at it other than Winchester stuff.

Long story short, bought the saiga 12 and ran 50+ rounds of low brass and some buckshot. Functioned perfectly. Had a local gunsmith convert it, wouldn't shoot low brass or buck without failure to feed. He took it back, polished the hammer up. Tried the same ammo, no luck. So this afternoon I found the mag and ammo I had initially used, cheap federal stuff. Which was just a hair darker color than what I had been using, which turned out to be the Winchester I had kicking around. Oops. Just ran a mag through of federal and Remington and both work perfectly. Soo problem was mostly my fault I

Looks like 07 are the first 2 numbers, this is a date stamp? I will look into cobra, it looks like having everything gone over all at once would be worth it anyways above and beyond the hammer profile.

Still working on this one, my work schedule has been horrible to get the S12 back and forth to the gunsmith. Does anyone sell a re-profiled hammer ready to drop in? Or is there a gunsmith in New England that does great work on these firearms? Just in case it comes to that.

Talked to the shop dropping it off Saturday and they will take care of it, thanks for the help.

I ran a piece of 220 grit over it just to feel for snags while I searched for more info, otherwise I'm not touching it until I talk to the shop tomorrow. Thanks for the links and info I like to know what the job entails so I know if they are bsing me or if I have to take care of this myself.

I certainly will be in contact and have no doubt that the shop will treat me right. But if it was as simple as smoothing out a burr I would take care of it and save myself the drive.

Thanks, I will be doing lots of reading tonight.

The fcg is dropped in and has a seam down the center from the manufacturing process so I'm going to guess it hasn't been modified. When the bolt passes over it the carrier presses down on the hammer against the spring pressure and obviously drags on it. Smoothly but I can see it slowing things down. Would that be enough to short stroke it and not let the shell get high enough to feed properly? If so sanding the fcg should help should I just sand until its just contacting and not really putting pressure on anything?

Just got my Saiga 12 back from the local gunsmith after he moved the FCG forward to where it belongs. Before I sent it out I ran 50 ish rounds of low brass and high brass ammo with no issues whatsoever through the 3 mags I have. I got it back yesterday, and ran about 40 rounds through it, getting at least 1 failure to feed on each magazine. From what I could tell it looked like the front of the shell didn't come up high enough to feed. Is there something done in the conversion that could have caused this?