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BattleRifleG3

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Posts posted by BattleRifleG3

  1. The M14 mag conversion I've seen removes material from the trunion that holds back the bolt. I and others believe this is unsafe. I am working on an adaptor that basically becomes a new mag well and would accept mildly modified G3 mags. It wouldn't carve anything out of the trunion, but would involve permanent modification of the receiver, move the mag backwards, replace the mag catch with an AR type, and remove the cross post, replacing it with an external brace.

     

    More details as they come.

  2. I'm working on a design for an adaptor to use G3 mags, but it would require permanent, irreversible modification to the receiver. Using cheap G3 mags should be worth it if it works out.

     

    Will keep people posted.

  3. The Saiga 12 cannot unfortunately be made to feed like an SKS.

     

    1. You can only load a double stack mag by pushing straight down. Single stack must be loaded by sliding rounds in at the front. No can do with a fixed mag. Only the Mosin Nagant has a system to get around this.

     

    2. The SKS does not have its piston affixed to the bolt carrier like the Saiga. The SKS can have its bolt retracted and the piston won't come too.

     

    If you can find a way around these, more power too you. But by that point, you might as well design a whole new gun. For the trouble it would take, I'd suggest a tube fed autoloader for the wife.

  4. FFL = Federal Firearms license

    That is for someone who deals in firearms as a business.

     

    The law says a gun must be shipped to an FFL. Not sure about fed law, but at least in PA an FFL must be used to transfer a handgun.

     

    The dealer is required by law to perform an instacheck by phone of the buyer for a clean record. The buyer must also fill out a form with personal info (name, address, place of birth, citizenship, etc) and furnish his drivers lisence.

     

    There is about a $5 fee for this paperwork on a governmental level.

     

    Now it costs the dealer a fee to have this license. He also can't just get this license unless he has a business. So that costs him money too. In fact, in some cases dealers have to pay overhead to have a business until the paperwork goes through, costing them $$$$.

     

    That said, and given that you're not paying this dealer a markup on a gun in stock, it makes perfect sense that he'll charge you a fee for this.

     

    Considering what they pay just to exist, and then that they have to eat and possibly even feed kids, and that sending them to school on that kind of money is a long shot, a $25 fee which is competitive around here is a bargain. Your local dealer may have higher overhead and have to charge more. Before you think his price is too high, remember how much it costs to drive elsewhere and shop around, then drive back to the first store. The difference is usually that small.

     

    By the way FA990, how old are you? If you're under 18, you cannot buy any gun. Your parent may buy one and you may use it under their blessing and they are responsible for what happens.

  5. You can modify the gun to fit any hi-cap mag if it has 10 or fewer foreign parts from a list, including the mag.

     

    You can modify a pre-ban mag to fit any gun as long as the mag can still work in the original gun.

     

    That is the law on mag and gun alterations.

     

    Altering a Saiga to accept hi-caps without US parts is ILLEGAL.

    Altering a Saiga to accept hi-caps and the end result having 10 or less listed foreign parts is LEGAL.

     

    Altering a mag to fit the Saiga so that it no longer works in the original is ILLEGAL

    Altering a mag to fit the Saiga but making sure it will still work in the original is LEGAL.

  6. I don't know the details of the technique of bump firing. I don't care for it myself. The purpose is to simulate full auto without having a gun that is full auto, which would be illegal, while bump firing is legal.

     

    The full auto parts are legal to own if you don't have an AK. Some people buy them for intellectual use, some for pre-approved law enforcement use, some for repair of the few registered AKMs, some use parts that were full auto but convert them to semi (this is shaky, for some it's still illegal to use them), some just to say "ooh, I got a full auto part, whoohoo!", some to use in case the next war comes to our soil (I am of the opinion that converting our semi-autos to full auto in such a situation is a technologically bad idea), and some break the law.

     

    As far as whether such a kit would work, you would have to have compatible internals and do some receiver modification. The "third hole" that would accomodate this is a dead giveaway that the rifle has been illegally modified. In fact it alone contitutes an illegal gun.

     

    Remember, if you have a folding stock, flash hider, bayonet lug, short barrel, or similar illegal modification you won't get caught unless someone sees the rifle or asks to.

     

    But if you fire full auto, it's a dead giveaway for miles around. And it's among the most fiercely prosecuted gun ownership offenses.

     

    I would like to reiterate my recommendation of a hi-cap WASR-10 for your needs/wants, and plenty of magazines (including drums) and ammo. If you think you're good enough, optics too, but not too pricey. From everything you describe it's the way to go.

     

    As much as I wouldn't want to direct traffic away from saiga12.com, www.gunsnet.net in the AK section will have far more to say about this than I. I should warn you, though, they do bite.

  7. Note that the AUGs use a lot of plastic. More plastic than I'd be comforetable with. Like the hammer, I think.

     

    The Bush Bullpup is based on the reliable AR-18/180 that has been the base for many rifles that don't give it any credit. The HK G36 uses its gas system, as do a many others.

     

    My main deterrent from the Bushpup was weight. Overall weight, and butt weight. I prefer barrel heavy to butt heavy if the choice must be made. It should lean forward with one hand on the grip, not back.

     

    If this is not a deterrent to you, go for it.

     

    Note that long squishy triggers are generally inherent to the bullpup design.

  8. There are full auto / select fire parts out there for sale.

     

    It is NOT legal to use them or even have them along with a gun that can use them.

     

    Unless you want to pay $10,000 for a pre 1986 registered full auto AK, just accept that you'll have semi-auto only.

     

    You can simulate full auto by mastering a technique called bump-firing where you use the recoil of the gun to vibrate your finger instead of consciously pulling it each time. You can also get a crank attachment called a gat trigger that pulls the trigger repeatedly as you crank it.

     

    For all these purposes, a WASR-10 is probably the most fitting rifle. When someone sells a Romanian AK, it's either a WASR, a SAR, a WUM, a CUR, or a ROMAK, which are all very very similar, and are in order of increased rarity/collectibility.

     

    The latter three are 100% Romanian and will come with thumbhole stocks unless modified. If they've been legally modified to have a Pistol grip, they'll be the same as an SAR-1, which is basically the same thing but with US compliance parts and a separate pistol grip.

    WASRs begin life as single stack rifles, and some are given US parts and converted to standard hi-cap AK mags. Others are left as single stacks and should cost far less. If a Romanian AK is too much lower than $300, it's probably a low-cap WASR-10.

     

    You can spot a WASR-10 a mile away, because while the others have dimples above the mag well, the WASRs do not. Neither do Russian Saigas, but that's a whole different animal.

     

    My advice is to get a WASR-10 and lots of ammo. Unless you are already a practised markman AND plan to carefully aim most of your shots, there's no reason to spend hundreds more on a milled Bulgarian or yet more on a custom gun. Just buy more ammo and magazines.

  9. Maadis are of varying quality, and are no longer imported.

     

    WASR-10 is a curent conversion of a current production rifle. They are not the best finished but they work reliably. They aren't the most accurate but are usually alright. From most of your inquiries, I'd say it'll work well for you. Better than a Maadi for sure. It or a Norinco AK would be a good choice if you are not about to do a Saiga conversion or prefer the standard AKM pattern and furniture.

  10. There are two bans

     

    The 1994 AWB applies to all guns, including domestic. One or two qualifying features (ie semi-auto rifle with detachable mag) and a list of restricted features, of which you may have only one (p-grip, etc)

     

    The 1989 Import ban has become a bit fluid, being wide open to expansion and reinterpretation, thus something new's banned every couple years, ie MAK-90s, FAL Sporters, etc. You can completely avoid this ban by having 10 or less imported parts from a list that starts with barrels and ends with furniture. This is where US compliant AK rifles come from.

     

    No way around the '94 ban, except that it's scheduled to sunset in September. No expiration date for the 89 ban, but replace enough parts with US made ones and it's nullified.

     

    I myself have thought perhaps a Saiga with a McMillan style stock could use a moved trigger group but have no p-grip, and thus have a better trigger.

  11. HP will do more damage to soft targets, FMJ will do more damage to hard targets, because FMJ has more penetration and HP has more short term energy transmission to target. Basically, if the bullet stays in the target, it's transmitted all its energy. If it does it over a short space, for which an HP is better, you get more of an instantaneous shock at that point. If it does it over a long space, it's more spread out. If it leaves the target, you don't have maximum energy transmission to target.

     

    FMJ is designed to get through a target without transmitting all its energy. In the case of hard targets, it's so that it can get inside and continue to do damage. If it's a human, it's so that he won't take all the energy of the bullet, in keeping with the Hague convention. It also can do its damage well behind soft targets. If your enemy is hiding behind a thin enough tree, a full power FMJ (full power = 308, 30-06, 8mm Mauser, 7.62x54R, etc) will easily punch through.

     

    HP is better if you don't want to overpenetrate and want to stop your target in its tracks. 1.5" of pine (which is far less dense than flesh) appears not to be enough to really demonstrate the expansion properties of HP. Also, the 7.62x39mm isn't the best round to demonstrate these properties. A Hydrashok pistol round is a good example.

     

    The main advantage of 7.62x39mm HP is accuracy. I myself use both, with a preference to HP. If I can pull off better soft target penetration with FMJ, I may switch.

  12. The Saiga 308 is best for accuracy and hunting whitetail due to ballistics and inherent accuracy, as noted above. The advantages of the other two are inexpensive ammo for rapid fire, lower recoil, ability to convert to hi-cap mags, and lower price. For your listed uses, the 308 seems best.

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