my762buzz
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Posts posted by my762buzz
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Any help would be awesome.
Yes you can use another carrier and not mess up the head space because the head space depends upon the bolt face to cartridge head relation and the bolt lug to trunnion relation.
You got two obvious choices amigo. You can pony up $94.99 for an exact Izmash replacement part from KVAR or................................................................
................................. you could consider that KVAR states on the website
Brand New Original Russian Made Bolt carrier assembly, with gas piston, AK-74 style Bolt carrier. Will work on all Russian 7.62x39, 5.45x39.5, and 5.56x45 caliber rifles. Fits all ak-74 variant rifles with the exception of Romanian Variants.
and maybe purchase a surplus Bulgarian AK74 carrier for $20 from MARKW1 http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?/topic/56800-wts-bulgarian-ak74-parts/
I think the AK74 carrier should be a drop in replacement part without any need to modify. You Saiga is essentially a new generation (100 series) AK74 that happens to have a
7.62x39 barrel and 7.62x39 bolt. If you broke the bolt, then you would definitely need to go to the only place in the USA that has the AK103 type Izmash 7.62x39 bolts, so you got lucky this time. I never heard of or seen a russian or bulgarian bolt break yet. Chinese bolts yes by a few different websites.
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Does K-Var offer a buttstock in the Warsaw length with the proper mating surfaces to fit snugly for a Saiga?
All the Kvar 74 style stocks should fit perfect in saigas. I have several warsaw and a nato length one and they all fit snug against the inner trunnion.
I just recently finished a 2008 RAA Saiga rifle with a kvar stock set minus the grip.
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My issue is this: I'm doing a conversion on a 7.62x39 Saiga and I really liked the looks of the Timbersmith black laminate furniture, so I ordered a set. Now that I'm actually doing the work I did a dry-fit to see how everything lines up and found (much to my dismay) that there is a very large difference in height between the inside dimensions of the receiver and the mating parts on the buttstock. Basically, when I put the stock in there's a large gap (at least 1/8" or more) under the upper tang. In order to give the stock a snug fit I'm faced with making some custom shims,
Saigas are different than the old AKM pattern rifles. Saigas are based on AK103/74 type patterns. The firing pins, bolts, carriers, stocks, etc are different.
The timber smith is essentially made for an AKM which has a different trunnion shape and receiver relationship. The AK74 style stocks will fit much more perfect.
Why, because the difference between the AKM and AK74 rear openings result in a gap between the trunnion of the saiga and an AKM stock. The Tapco AKM stocks insert until
the outer stock edge presses the receiver edge and not the trunnion like it should. If you really must use the timber smith, make a shim so that it properly presses the rear trunnion
and not the knife edge of the receiver. In the picture, you can see a tapco AKM stock and the obvious gap difference compared to the saiga 74/103 pattern stock.
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with the 74 style brake and could definitely tell a difference in muzzle rise and flip with the 74 on it.
That pretty much says it all.
Brake is really not even an accurate term for this device. The term brake implies slowing down recoil forces (horizontal).
The term comp implies compensation to counter muzzle rise (vertical). Since the 74 style device does both, it acts to stabilize the
muzzle from any movement away from original point of aim so as to keep you pointed at the target shot after shot in rapid or full auto.
A brake without vertical rise compensation is not going to help enough. A muzzle rise comp without braking action attempts to keep the muzzle from rising.
When both work in harmony, then you got muzzle stabilization and that is seriously "bad ass." Why? Because it offers the advantage of keeping you on target better
and that means a better chance of accurately launching multiple bullets into a relatively close target much quicker than if you didn't have the device.
In a combat/defensive situation, a fraction of a second may mean life or death.
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1917 Browning machine gun (In the first test, the weapon fired 20,000 rounds without incident.
Fantastic design but because it is water cooled I consider it in a different league of combat weapon. The water chamber physically limits the top critical heat build up point to a fixed quantity.
However, with an air cooled shoulder fired rifle like a typical AK, M14, M16, etc
the steel generally has no top end limiting factor to prevent continuous heat build up.
Chrome lining is suppose to actually reduce friction which slows the heat build up to some degree and prevents bore erosion for longer barrel life.
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i observed what appears to be the source of the mis-feeding. every time there is a mis-feed, the bolt is riding over the round instead of properly stripping it from the magazine.
Look at it again and figure out why the bolt head lower edge is not able to contact the top cartridge case head upper edge.
Is the magazine is sitting too low? Is the magazine front lug fully seated into the trunnion slot properly or tilted forward
which would cause the rear of the magazine to ride higher than the front and definitely cause a feeding issue?
All the guide does is allow the cartridge to angle upward enough to help positive feeding. The guide should be just low
enough to not touch the bolt head as it passes over. If the bolt head physically drags over the top of the guide (actual
touching), then you may have a guide problem. If the cartridge is catching on the guide, you
may have to smooth out the guide contact area and round it some.
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Colt M4 full auto test ruptures barrel at 535 rounds less than 2 minutes in nearly continuous fire but how much longer would an AK last?
I AM really curious about this and yeah the RPK system comes to mind when I stop to consider this.
Any one have a similar test source to compare?
Oh and yeah there is the actual video on the link
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Ive been reading up on muzzle crowing and Im wondering if anyone here that has threaded their barrel to 14mm x1 LH and installed a tapco or other brake on a threaded barrel experienced negative effects to accuracy. ??I
wondering....
I once had a loose fitting 14mm slant comp that is typically found on AKMs cause my groups to widen on a rifle it was on. Took it off and my groups got better fast.
Anything loose and bouncing around against the barrel is not going to help your groups. Tight and wiggle free is a good thing when it comes to accuracy in any rifle.
On a side note:
The super wide Ak74 style muzzle on the AK74 style front sight blocks seems to keep potential loose brake knocking vibrations farther away from the muzzle by dampening them.
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Did you use a rivet or roll-pin 762? What size did you use? I definitely want to pick one of these up.
The hole is 5mm wide and realistically a 25mm long pin is needed. So figure metric M5 x 25mm. You can use a roll pin like shown on the website or a dowel pin (rod).
I noticed that a standard AK trigger axis pin is 5mm wide but obviously much longer than 25mm and so I cut and filed an extra one I had to size. It took two minutes with bolt cutters and a file. Finally, a little red loctite at the end and it fits snug. However, you can buy M5x25mm dowel pins from plenty of online tool or hardware sources.
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does it have the slots on the side for the factory barrel notches?
No slots. I think the lack of slots is so it can also be used on saigas or any other ak that has no barrel side notches.
Most of the older saigas were imported with no notches.
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That does look really good. Very nice gun overalll too. My understanding of the forum rules are, you can post where you got it, even the website, just not a LINK, to it. Thanks for sharing.
Ok if this is the case then. www....... saiga-ak ........com/parts.html
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Because of the forum rules I won't bother to outright mention the source but a simple google search will help find this fast.
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i just dont have the ability to cook a gun or else i would i gess ill have to watch it with the ak
Well, there is also Dura Coat which requires no heating to cure and it is suppose to be much more chemical resistant than most anything else that would not need baking. I never tried it but plenty of people rave about it and now they have a shake and spray system which requires no airbrush or air compressor.
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Very few paints will adhere if its not properly cured before using a strong cleaner.
Try using compressed air instead of cleaner next time.
yeh thats wat i thought but still i need something that holds up cause thats wat i use too clean my guns
I have tried most kinds of retail spray on paint. The VHT caliper paint is the most chemical resistant one in the less than $10 category.
It does require baking it at 200 degrees for a while. The VHT header paint might also be chemical resistant but it requires 600 degree curing and that is way to hot to bake at.
I seen steel springs lose their temper and ruin when baked 300-600 and will not ever bake a coating that high again.
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thanks for the replies. I am just surprised how loose it is. the notch in MB is wider than pin and there is a lot of lateral play!
If you want it tighter, you can grind the open end with sand paper until it just barely locks in tightly or use blue/red locktite on the threads.
I chose to grind my Arsenal 24mm 74 type brake and now it fits in super tight and yeah the lack of play definitely helps keep irregular vibrations from screwing with accuracy.
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Installing a BG from CSS.Do I push it all the way forward so it contacts the inside of the trunion,or have it a little closer to the magazine?Gregg isn't answering the phone at CSS today...
The closer to the magazine the guide is means the bullet enters the barrel chamber at a higher angle which means greater feed reliability.
I tried different guide position placements to experienment for optimum feeding and my home made guides worked best nearly touching the mag feed lip.
I had to make sure the guide was just far enough away to prevent any magazine lock in issues with all my magazines.
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Thank you for the pictures, just so people dont say that im talking out of my ass and that im full of shit, and by the way SGLs are not regular saigas, arsenal does not buy a regular saiga and convert it, if that was the case it would have the same holes as saigas (BHO)
They are imported as custom shop saigas and look nearly identicle to regular Saigas. Even the SGL 10 has the front conversion done only after importation.
http://www.arsenalinc.com/usa/product.php?productid=43&cat=&page=1
Arsenal custom changes these. They say so in the manual.
Arsenal, Inc. remanufactures the SGL21 rifles in the United States with 922r compliant parts and fills them with
features not seen on any other factory Saiga rifles. Performing the most difficult modifications to achieve, Arsenal,
Inc. has done a substantial work for the customer
An SGL 21 can not be legally imported in the condition that it is sold. The 1990 and 1998 import bans prevent that. They have to be remanufactured after import.
Same goes with the SLR series that Arsenal produces.
As far as the trigger linkage holes that would be present above the pistol grip, those are welded up during the process.
Hard to believe but again they can't be imported otherwise.
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if u get ahold of both and compare them, you will see that saigas have an extra lip on the side (full-auto carrier)
I noticed this before but it is fairly insignificant. No reliability advantage or otherwise.
The SGL lack of a chamber step has a more significant impact if you handload ammo.
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the only reason i have to buy an unconverted saiga and convert it over buying a SGL, is that saigas have full-auto bolts, and SGLs dont. I'm not trying to say anything, just throwing it out there
In the picture you see a SAIGA SGL and a non-SGL Saiga bolt.
Please point out the bolt that is full auto and why exactly?
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Easy solution: Multiple video cams of these raids. Then we will know whether the cops were telling the truth or defaming the victims. But cops do not want their actions filmed, in general.
I completely agree. They can have multiple low light and night vision cameras every where and mounted on trained dogs as well. The cost is not the issue it is the liability of what can't be covered up if things go unexpected and internal affairs gets ahold of the video of the cop that loses his temper and kills unjustifiably a suspect or innocent bystanders.
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Camels Need Love Too
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Hey guys-
I'm on another board where some guys are wanting to get an AAC Muzzle Brake that traditionally comes in 5.56cal and 1/2-28 pitch remade to come in a 7.62x39 in a 14x1LH pitch for Ak's..
I'd be curious to see a demo video of that on a 7.62x39 full auto. It looks functional. If I can see it in action, I might want one.
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I'd be a lot more interested in a new Draco chambered in 5.45x39
Not a Draco but they sell these all the time. I seen them for sale for years.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=228054331
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=228059123
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the Uly HP currently imported does not have the exact same 8M3 bullet as it did just a few years ago and I am still waiting to hear further reports on any changes in terminal ballistics.
There is also Hornady Vmax loadings that work just as well or better than the 8m3. Very reactive to water in living tissues. Boxes of 50 are currently for sale online.
Shot 2 is 8m3 and shot 3 is Vmax Try vaporizing this much water like this with any 5.45
Almost There
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
Posted
I suppose if there were two side by side video comparisons in full auto : Tapco version versus a Real .30 caliber AK74 copy or surplus 74 drilled wider.
The muzzle stability visuals would really stand out. If only I were an SOT, I would have such a video by now. Kvar could probably do this in one of their nutnfancy style youtube
videos with Mr. English.