my762buzz
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Posts posted by my762buzz
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Much better! Although, it turned out that the only difference between the two triggers groups is a 1 mm worth of material that can easily be filed off!
Yes. Easily filed off. You can take any trigger available and shape/polish it into a dream come true. The only difference is the hammer forged triggers are more
workable than the injection molded like the tapco,arsenal,and texas.
I recently polished out an Arsenal 2 stage trigger with that extra material bump into a 1 stage dream. If most people knew the difference, they would have to have ultra smooth polished
triggers. The only thing that might help even more is chroming the contact points once their hand polished smooth and then polishing the chrome which is slicker than steel.
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the factory itself....
Is Mercury Hermes?
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So are we to just abolish freedom of religion or just the one we don't like? Kind of like freedom to bears arms except the ones some people don't like?
The problem with Islam is that it is a violent Empire building system disquised as a religion. It's dedicated soldiers that vow to harm non believers to increase
gained territory have been termed terrorists. The premise of Islam is world domination. This means violent government overthrow by steady conquest.
It spread from Saudi Arabia to many parts of the world similar to how MS13 has from El Salvador. Most converts in the past 1300 years have been forced by threat of violence.
You can believe what ever the hell you want to in America but when your belief system has by-laws that require you to force others into submission to your ideology that is no longer
a religion but rather an act of war.
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Also, I would like to know if there is any modification to the factory HG required to use the Ultimak gas tube rail, due to it's "wings" I'm going to call them, that stick out for attachment to the clamps. Thanks for any input you guys want to give me on this matter.
Yes This one is not mine but the ones I have modified were similar. The hole threads are aluminum which means do not over tighten or you might end up with a stripped hole. Also, make sure the optics choice you plan on using is very heat tolerant because that aluminum rail will efficiently transfer plenty of heat.
Usually, more things clamped to the barrel is bad for harmonics-accuracy but maybe its the heat sink property of the aluminum in this case that sucks heat right off the barrel and keeps the barrel cooler maybe to enhance accuracy during extended firing and heating. How could we really prove this? Maybe if someone had a monster aluminum full barrel heat sink preferably with hundreds of fins clamped the full length this idea could be tested but I don't think it has been done.
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Anyone know if there is any quality difference in the older like 1993 B West Saiga's VS. a little newer one like a 2003 EEA? The newer one seems to look cheaper quality wise, stamping, maybe I'm wrong but holding both of them and looking them over kind of seems that way. Anyone have any insight of this or to the contrary as well? The newer does have the BHO and newer barrel, parts, whereas the older one does not but that's about it from what I can tell. Trying to make a decision on which one to keep if my better half makes me part with one.
Unless they used to be 1.5mm receivers, I wouldn't think they are any stronger. I wish someone would measure how wide the Bwest Saiga barrels were at the gas block just to compare.
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I know of a guy with a B West AK who sent it to a gunsmith to have the receiver replaced with a Nodak Spud one, so I'd think a better quality receiver, or rifle using a better receiver like an EAA or RAAC gun might be of higher quality.
Bwest had a famous problem back in the early 1990's with some Chinese AK rifles they rebuilt onto US made unheat-treated receivers before the 10 parts rule came into play. The rifles fell apart within a few thousand rounds. The Saiga rifles should have never been anything but original Russian receivers.
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Thanks for your 2 cents.
However, what are your experiences with accuray at 100 yards+? What do your clusters look like?
There are a few things that really muddy the waters when it comes to speaking of accuracy.
7.62x39 the cartridge itself is very capable of fine accuracy. See thread link below.
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-362501.html
The problems that prevent 7.62x39 AK weapons from really performing sub moa are inherent in the ammo loadings as well as the weapons.
Steel cased machine gun ammo is not exactly match grade. Brass cased commercial loads are usually better, but to really get the best accuracy handloading is essential.
In many cases reported on various internet forums, handloading has significantly improved the results for 7.62x39 rifles. aksarben is a classic example of this concept.
Russian steel cased ammo is not usually a contender for supreme accuracy in 7.62x39. Unfortunately, most folks judge their 7.62x39 based on crappy ammo and outright declare
that 7.62x39 is inaccurate. This is sort of like driving a nascar race on regular commercial gas and then throwing the car under the bus because it can't compete with racing fuel
supplied stock cars.
Another issue is bullet to bore looseness. Not all barrel bores are exactly 0.310 or 0.311. Foreign commercial ammo bullets can vary a bit in diameter.
This plays a bit in inconsistent performance. Also, much of the cheap ammo can have variations in powder quantity and this only makes things worse.
Something that is often overlooked when comparing 7.62x39 to 5.45 is that if the barrel external diameter is the same in both calibers the wider bore causes the
remaining barrel wall to be thinner. 7.62x39 would have less barrel steel than 5.45 and this plays into the harmonics of the barrel. More barrel wall steel helps with
accuracy by absorbing more vibrations and stabilizing the bullet path through the barrel.
Another issue is the 9.45 twist rate in 7.62x39. Much too fast for such a short light bullet. Over spinning a bullet makes it unstable. The bench gun in the link above
uses a much slower 15 inch twist to great advantage.
Apart from all this, I and others have managed to shoot groups bordering on 1 moa with various ammo choices in saiga 7.62x39 rifles.
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There are a number of threads in the past few years about the Saiga 7.62x39 firing pin lacking a spring - actually a designed free floating firing pin. A current advertisement online describes the same Saiga Sporter in 7.62x39 "includes a spring loaded firing pin" - as stated in the ad. Would that require a mod to the bolt and/or the firing pin supplied, as that system would not work with the stock bolt/firing pin? Or am I missing something. Wondering if there will be two different, but similar parts out there - to further confuse the parts issue. Anyone up to date on that issue?
The 7.62x39 vepr has one and it can also use a regular free floating one. I can swap in a vepr spring loaded one into a saiga bolt. The firing pin itself is notched to retain the spring.
A saiga bolt could use either type with no mods required. However, bear in mind, the saiga/vepr bolt uses a 74 style firing pin.
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I have a 74 brake I want to put on my 7.62, people voiced their concerns about the hole size but a 7.62 will pass through it just fine. What do you think?
My arsenal sgl21(7.62x39) 74 style brake has a path wide enough to allow a 9mm luger case (slightly over 0.355 inches) to slip through. If your surplus 5.45 brake can do the same, then definitely don't worry about using it. If not, a drill bit can fix that.
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Also my research has led me to believe the 5.45 is a better terminal performer than the 7.62, particular when comparing 7N6 to wolf commercial 7.62. I don't claim to be a ballistic expert but I've seen very little that indicates 7.62 is more effective in humans.
124 grain 8m3 makes some very nasty wounds. Fist size cavities.
Dang, a 7.62 did that? Impressive.
Yes.
By the way, http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=59754&st=0&p=568816entry568816
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Also my research has led me to believe the 5.45 is a better terminal performer than the 7.62, particular when comparing 7N6 to wolf commercial 7.62. I don't claim to be a ballistic expert but I've seen very little that indicates 7.62 is more effective in humans.
124 grain 8m3 makes some very nasty wounds. Fist size cavities.
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Had nothing to with saigas and been posted more times than I can count.The second link I provide to the study can be seen through an html quick view. Google it if you must. Saigas are referenced in the study.
A saiga drum is displayed. Its not like they are worried about over unders.
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January 19th, 2011
Today, the ATF announced at the 2011 SHOT Show that a new ruling would be issued on Monday, January 24, 2011, regarding the importability of certain shotguns. ATF informed the audience at the ATF Townhall meeting that they wanted to ensure that they were properly and justly enforcing the requirements of a shotgun being for a “sporting purpose.”
This is definitely concerning given the huge demand for certain shotguns like the Saiga platform, which has seen a noticeable increase in demand. While ATF would not comment on which shotguns will be named in this ruling, I would not be surprised to hear that the Saiga is going to be mentioned in the ruling
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ah, just because EAA didn't alter it doesn't preclude the possibility that somone else did.
Eaa sold it as shown.
There is no way that it was approved by the government for import with a pistol grip and high capacity mag ready if sold to regular civilians.
Either EAA or someone changed it once it showed up in the USA. Otherwise, prove it. Good luck.
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I have a 2001 saiga/ EAA imported RPK. Several interested people have commented that it had to be alted/converted here. I have talked to EAA this morning and was told that they do not alter any guns they have sold and that it was imported as I received it.
Anyone know the history of the EAA saiga and why they weren't imported this way for very long? I asked how many were brought in this way but she didn't know.
The bullet guide is welded in place and the 4 holes that are used in the now saiga sporter are there but have steel rivets in them not plastic covers.
It was not imported that way. Someone modified it.
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Has nothing to do with the steel case.
The bullet jacket itself is actually made up of mild steel in cheap Russian ammo with a light copper wash on it (because steel is currently cheaper than brass).
The cheap Russian ammo uses both a steel case and a mild steel jacketed bullet with a lead core in it.
Supposedly (like already said) the steel jacket fucks up the backstop (+ the walls & roof
) of indoor ranges (not too hard to believe watching your average weekend warrior shooter), and can (supposedly 
) cause sparking if shot outdoors in a extremely dry area and it hits a rock or something.A local indoor range nearby refuses to allow any AK, AR, or Ruger Mini rifles supposeably because more often than not range visitors have used Russian ammo
and the steel jacketing tearing up the steel back stops.
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Steel dental pick would work fine but I wouldn't want to use it to avoid damaging the chrome lining.
Ya ain't going to damage your chrome by just cleaning your ports with a dental pick.
Not unless you stick in a Dremel and start engraving
I seen hard chrome get scratched enough times that I just would not take a chance.
Yeah, it is still not exactly like barrel chrome lining but it makes the idea so uncomforting to consider.
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So after looking through some articles online relating to this subject I can only seem to find stuff relating to 45 degree gas ports.
It says that you can just use a wire hanger to make sure the 45 degree angled gas block is clear of residue by simply poking the wire through the gas vent hole.
But no one seems to know how to clear the 90 degree gas block since the angle is to steep to put any sort of stick through.
Any ideas or methods to this? what would the russians do?
Steel dental pick would work fine but I wouldn't want to use it to avoid damaging the chrome lining.
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To me this seems like the one part of the AK that can easily become clogged with carbon buildup. I simply dont want to compound the problem.
So what would YOU do after 2k rounds (lets say its even corrosive) to clean that gas block on YOUR prize rifle?
I use gun slick foaming bore cleaner. It cleans the bore and gas port or carbon and copper all at once. You can leave it working for a long time and then wipe it out.
On a further note, someone I remember on another gun board posted about his AK torture/endurance test through over 40,000 rounds of ammo without cleaning or lubing.
I also distinctly remember about Pat Rogers famous AR 15 no cleaning but plenty of lubing endurance run of of over 20,000 rounds. Can I or anyone else verify this to
any degree? Well probably not in either case but I don't think 2,000 continuous rounds will clog any gas port. Regular bore cleaners that work on carbon deposits would also
clean the port hole.
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Insert a US mag & kiss your warranty goodbye???
Shitty!
This definitely needs further clearification.
The tricky part to this that is often overlooked is that a mag is part of the rifle. So if you place a US made mag that malfunctions in the remainder of the rifle (and too many domestic mags happen to do this) then would Arsenal be liable for a malfunction and need to fix the issue? In this case it wouldn't make sense to warranty something that is obviously not Arsenal at fault. I just can't see why they would not warranty a rifle that had an american made magazine in it in the past but has some other unrelated issue like a canted block.
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Great reminder of why bans create more problems than they ever solve.
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Wow I suppose it is chrome lined. In that case I probably wont even bother with lubing the gas system.
I dont really shoot 'often' maybe 3 times a year but every time I do I put nearly a thousand rounds through the rifle
If I did encounter rust in these areas how would I best remove it.
I am just trying to take the absolute BEST care of my rifle possible. Also any other information I should know regarding any sort of maintenance is very welcome in this thread, and I would really appreciate it.
Rust is oxidized iron and like dead skin flaking off only needs a little effort to remove. A rag with any oil and some polishing will buff it out.
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3. The gas port and and gas tube are just steel, and can rust.
In many rifles the inner gas port is bare steel but in saigas and veprs there is chrome lining.
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Brake Effectiveness
in Saiga 7.62 X 39
Posted · Edited by my762buzz
The only reason I see to have a brake is to control your muzzle from dancing all over the place when rapid firing. Plenty of people just want something that looks menacing but don't really care if it helps their shooting in any way. Hitting the target over and over again quickly is what I want one for. Besides practice, it really helps to have a well designed functioning brake. The one in the video posted works very well and is designed for the larger 24mm muzzle threads. I also seen some real mil surplus 5.45 brakes for less than $50 on the sale threads but because they are foreign made it adds 1 part you may not want legally speaking in terms of the 10 parts rule and they probably should be drilled open a bit for the bigger bullet passing through. The pws brakes are the only other decent functioning brakes I think but they cost more than $40 new and thread on to 14mm threading unless you want some other thread pattern on your muzzle. On the other hand, if I wanted to hide some flash, I would get a noise suppressor(silencer) but once again cheap will not work for this route either. A non-functioning brake is nothing more than a hood ornament.
It's not mine. Its just some video on youtube.
Look no flash or blast. You only hear the sonic crack.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etgzarL4ZD4&feature=related