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Etek

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Posts posted by Etek

  1. Mine ran like a Mercedes right out of the box. Even low powered stuff.

     

    Tearing a gun apart before EVER shooting it is like buying a TV then tearing it down then whining that it has 1/4 Watt resistors instead of 1/2 Watt resistors.

     

    Many times manufacturers make changes to improve a product without telling you. I see it all the time.

     

    I'd at least have shot it first.

  2. It could be worse...like Maryland!

     

    Sales Tax on purchase (Even Internet) is 6%. Add $65.00-$75,00 transfer fee plus State Police fee.

     

    When Saigas were cheap mine cost over $600.00. A $629.00 AR-15 clone cost me over $800.00 after all the BS.

     

    And the FFL siezes any mag over 20 rounds. So you get a single shot AK after all that crap.

  3. Gentlefolks,

     

    'Cold Blue' can be a durable and easily repaired finish but it must be done correctly.

     

    Strip the weapon down completely then degrease. Beadblast using a fine medium then degrease again. Keep your bare hands and fingers off the blasted finish. Blue the piece by dipping or applying the bluing acids with superfine steel wool. Wash it in COLD water. Blue it again a couple times if you wish after washing. Getting a NICE finish requres superfine steel wooling between or during washing. Worry not about a bit of surface rust.

     

    The last time you blue it wash it one last time and let it dry at normal temps. Use a rag if needed but do NOT rub the finish.

     

    Now here is the trick. Using a CLP that contains PTFE (Teflon) apply liberally but do not rub, let it run off. Heat the part to no more than 600F (It smokes well before 600) and let it cool. Apply CLP lightly after it cools and gently wipe dry.

     

    The key is sealing the finish with PTFE. Simply oiling a cold blue finish won't work. Matter of fact it seems to make the finish easier to rub off.

     

    I refinish parts for Naval AA guns and use this technique on many parts and they hold up quite well even in wet corrosive environments.

     

     

    Be not surprised if sme Eastern European pieces do not blue correctly/are spotted. Even Italian parts have spots of stainless/non-blue-able metal in them. Your choice at this point is of course the typical Communist PAINT IT deal.

     

    I'd suggest Oxypho (Brownells) rather than the shitty tiny bottles of paste or liquid with a 'Shoe Shine' ball attached to a stick. Get a gallon of Brownells stuff and go to town. Use a cheap plastic tub to dip your pieces in and discard the used acid correctly.

    Wear gloves AND eye protection please.

  4. Birchwood-Casey makes a "lead removal cloth" that works really well getting the lead streaks out after slug shooting. I just cut squares about 2" and run them back and forth with a brass 12 gauge jag and the bore comes clean in a few minutes.

     

     

     

     

    The Birchwood-Casey cloth is the same as Silver cleaning cloth found at any hardware, Dept. store or Notions Shop.

     

    It just costs 3 times as much.

  5. Easy fix for Lead fouling.

     

    Clean with solvent as usual then wipe bore clean.

    Get a SILVER cleaning cloth at a Department store or Notions shop. Cut a couple of TIGHT fitting patches and clean the lead out.

    You will be suprised how easy it is to 'Get the Lead out'.

     

    Some 30 years ago I had a Colt Peacemaker clone that leaded like crazy. I tried everything from bronze and stainless brushes to a Lee 'Lead Puller' but NOTHING worked so easily as a Silver cleaning patch. Reuseable too.

    Pulls copper fouling too.

  6. The Russians have a pad that is stackable and has hard inserts for length of pull adjustment. They came on the Saiga-12.com sidefolder but they are no longer listed nor could I find the pad or LOP hard inserts recently.

    Mac?

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