Cavediver
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Posts posted by Cavediver
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Cavediver, did you remove any metal/polish the tube/ pinhousing that the axis pin passes through? if you didnt remove or polish enough from the pin housing on the BHO side the hammer can drag on the BHO causing the hammer to bind and interfer with the timing causing problems Dogbone
Actually, I didn't do the grinding for the BHO yet. I wanted to make sure the basics were in an functioning before I messed with it.
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Last weekend I installed a new G2 trigger. Last night I took it to the range to check it out. The first 2 trigger pulls resulted in 2 shots each... After that things seemed to work fine.
The trigger pulls were slow, complete pulls. The rifle was tight against my shoulder, so no bump firing. I did polish some of the trigger surfaces, but only enough to remove the paint and take the sharp edges off. My only guess is the disconnector missed catching the hammer, maybe it was not rotating properly on the pin?
The good side is that the trigger was nice and smooth
If anyone has any insight there, please post it up. I'd like to know the cause and I need to make sure it doesn't appen again.
Thanks
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It's just a big roll pin, look at it, find the side with the smaller appearance and use a flat headed punch to knock it out.Really? I tried to disassemble the old trigger, but I could not get that sleeve out. Do you have any helpful hints? I'll go back through my research material and see what I can find.I tried a plain punch with no success. I had to resort to a nail set to bend the flanges of the pin inward a little. While the original pin is trashed, I was able to get it out and recover the spring.
Thanks for the advice! I looked over the tutorial that I had printed out, it appears I missed the page with these same instructions.
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You are supposed to pull the old disconnector spring from your original trigger group, and reuse it.
Really? I tried to disassemble the old trigger, but I could not get that sleeve out. Do you have any helpful hints? I'll go back through my research material and see what I can find.
Please do so, as the ballpoint pen spring just ain't the right way to go.Yeah, I'll have it replaced before I take it to the range. I just needed a temporary fix to check function. No way I'd shoot it without replacing that spring
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I decided to give it a bit of help. Using pictures provided by gunnysmith as a guide, I pulled out some sharpening stones and smoothed out some of the trigger connection points. While I was at it, I also lapped the bottom of the bolt carrier. I did sort of a half-assed job, afraid to grind too much off. Once I take it back to the range, I expect there will be some new wear marks to direct me as I finish the job.
The new G2 single hook seemed to be better/easier/smoother than the stock Saiga trigger. After I lapped and polished the connection points, it was even better. I was a little concerned that I would screw things up, but the availability and reasonable price of a replacement trigger eased my fears. The trigger still has a little bit of "stiction" to it right at the beginning of the pull, but I'm sure I'll get that smoothed out before long.
Thanks guys
Edit:
Oh yeah, I forgot this one. The trigger kit was missing the small spring. I needed something in there to make it work (just to make sure I didn't screw-up the assembly), so I ripped one out of a ball point pen
As it was not a mil-spec pen, I'm calling Tapco today to get a new one. -
Well, the camera is out of batteries, so no pics, but I did get the whole thing back together as stated. Theres a lot of fumbling around involved, first wth the BHO- which was much easier this time, then with the hammer spring. I had a bit of trouble with one end of the spring ctaching the safety as I manuevered it in, but eventualy got it. It seems that now with the new hammer my bolt and carrier catch on it as I have heard described- (when riding the bolt slowly- the hammer catches it and may even stop it in place- however a sharp jolt will dislodge it) It makes using the BHO a bit harder to do, since the bolt/carrier catches just before the BHO would and I have to take my hand off the BHO to urge it forward. No matter, I'm sure in time it will clear up, or I will polish the hammer a bit more if it doesn't. The trigger pull is now VERY CRISP AND LIGHT, and is a an absolute joy to experience. I must credit DINZAG once again for his excellent work and service. Now to set up that drill press.
So I just finished installing my new trigger group. Is this really normal, and can I shoot the gun like this? It seems like it will work fine and that it will probably smooth out after a while, however, I'm new to rifles and want to make sure it's really OK...
Thanks
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That's the one! Thanks!
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Somewhere on this forum, I read that you have to grind down one side of the hammer (?) before installing a new trigger group. Does this apply only when keeping the BHO?
After a bit of searching I still can't find the correct post. Is there a specific diagram / measurement that I need to hit (assuming that I do have to grind the trigger...)?
Sorry for the repetative question. I know the info's there, I just can't seem to lay eyes on it...
Thanks!
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It only takes about 10 mins. to install Danzigs feed ramp using a hand drill. Dont forget to lock-tite it in after you test for function. And I also used a dremel to make my factory mags work with the ramp(about 5 mins. a piece).
Hand drill???
Hand drill!!!!
Blasphemy!
I figured I could get away with a hand drill for most of this conversion. However, I've got a small drill press (and a new vice
) that need to justify their existance...I'm hoping to do the PG and stock conversion this weekend. With any luck, the guide will be here sometime next week, and I'll be shooting the week after.
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Yeah, man, that's good to know. I'm glad you picked up a couple different mags to check them out. I ordered Dinzag's bullet guide and 2 Orlites awhile ago, but they're still just sittin' around waiting to be installed. I kind of wanted to go with a less instrusive way of hi-cap in the .223, but it looks like the Orlites are definitely gonna need a feed ramp also. It looks like Dinzag's feed ramp is the way to go. Now if I could just motivate myself to install it...
I ordered the feed ramp just so I could buy a milling vice for my drill press
Even though is seems intrusive, there's no reason you couldn't remove the feed ramp and return to using stock magazines (at least not one that I can see...).
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FWIW, since several people reported sucess w/o a feed ramp, I ordered several different types of magazines over the last two weeks. Pro-mag .223, Bulgarian 45rnd and The Galil orilites.
The Bulgarian fit after a little filing, no-go on feeding w/o a ramp. It's still a little tight; I need to do a little more shaping before it's good to go.
The Pro-Mag fit out of the box, no filing. It's got some side to side play, but I doubt it will be a problem (as long as I don't use it for a handle). Also a no-go for feeding w/o a ramp.
The Galils should be here today, I expect they'll fit fine after shaving down that front rib.
End result: I've got a Dinzag ramp on order, and I'll have several spare mags that will work (in a pinch) sitting at the back of the safe.
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Nice! I've been looking for some trigger info, this looks like most of the info I want.
What did you use to do the polishing? I've got all sorts of materials, tools, and equipment available, but I've never tried this and don't want to screw it up... I hear people refer to it as "stoning", and I'm assuming they are using sharpenng / polishing stones, but that seems a little impractical for some of the surfaces.
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Ridge Runner,
Less than a month ago, I bought a Saiga .223. It's my first rifle. I'm seriously thinking about buying another couple of Saigas, another .223 for my wife and perhaps a .308 just for fun.
Buy it. You won't regret it. Even if you decide to upgrade later, this can go to the back of the safe for rainy day fun or emergencies.
The internals are pretty simple, it's easy to take down and clean, and it's an absolute pleasure to shoot.
The only downside is that you must do the whole conversion process if you want to use higher capacity magazines (it comes stock with 10 round mags). It's really not that big of a deal, $120 in parts (stock, grip, & trigger kit), just a couple of hours and a small selection of tools.
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Hoping this would work for me, I bought a Bulgarian 45 round waffle mag from Cope's. Unless I'm missing a couple of grinding areas, I will need a feed ramp to make it work.
I don't know if the 45 round mags are different than the 30's, but I doubt it.
I also ordered a pro-mag, but they're on back order right now.
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I bought a new one (standard AK design)from Cope's a few days ago. Much smaller, it looks like it will do the trick. Thanks!
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I just received my new Tapco furniture (6 position stock, Galil handguard and SAW style grip), and I think I'm going to need a smaller PG for my wife. It fits my hands just fine but it's too big for her. Does anyone know of a better choice? If so, will I need additional hardware or can I use the stuff that arrived with the Tapco?
Thanks!
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Hey guys, newb here. I picked up a Saiga .223 and just put the featured ATI Skele-stock from Gilberts on it, but ordered a .223 mag from Cope's before reading about any compatibility issues online. Well I got the mag today (http://www.copesdist.com/images/Bulgarianblack30rnd.223.jpg), a bulgarian waffly type.
I was amazed. It fed just fine right out of the box. Is it only the US made .223 AK mags that have this trouble?
I'm assuming it fed fine without the feed ramp mod? How well does it fit? Does it have side to side play like the Promags?
I've got replacement furniture and FCG in hand. I'd love to find mags that work right out of the box without more mods to the gun...
Thanks
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If you're going to order TAPCO, check out JSE Surplus. They have the best prices I've seen on just about everything, fast service and reasonable shipping costs.
Jim
Thanks Jim!
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Thanks guys. That gives me what I need to know for now. I was going to have the parts on hand when the rifle arrived, but I guess it's best to have it in hand and look things over.
I'm not opposed to paying for quality parts if that's what's called for. If I'm not going to notice a difference in my day to day plinking (I don't intend on knocking down any doors
) I'll order the Tapco stuff from Midway and return it if I'm not happy with the quality. -
Hello all,
I'm expecting delivery of my new .223 Saiga next week
As my wife and I are both on the short side, I'll need to change out the stock. I've been looking at the Tapco stocks, but I see a few people don't like them. Would I be better off getting something from ACE?
In addition to that, it looks like I'll have to upgrade the trigger group and add a PG to remain in compliance. Do I have to move the trigger group forward to add the PG, or do people do that for another reason? (From reading, it looks like I'll have to do it, I just want to confirm that before I start drilling and hammering
)Final question: If I am forced to move the trigger, should I get one of the pin plates that takes the place of the wire? Please note: I'm not 100% sure about what I'm saying here; I've seen a plate (Red Star? and Midway) and read about using it, but I don't think I've read about it with a picture or web link in the same post... If this is a good idea, is one plate better than the others?
Thanks,
Jay
G2 Trigger problem
in Saiga .223
Posted
That's what I don't understand. I did not touch the disconnector hook at all. I only polished up the contact faces fo the hammer and trigger hook, plus the back side of the hammer and the bottom of the bolt. It just does not make sense. After I reassembled everything, I checked operation fo nearly 10 minutes. Of course, I can't duplicate the amount of force that occurs when firing, but I don't see how that could have any impact.
I'll take it apart again next week, make sure there are no burrs or hang-up points on the trigger parts. I also need to check and make sure that spring and the retaining plate (shephards hook replacement) can't bind anywhere.