Bonesaw
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Posts posted by Bonesaw
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+1 to Big J, great communication throughout the transaction process. Couldn't have asked for a smoother buy. Thanks again!
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pm sent on black talon ammo
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They can be a real bearcat. One I decided to remove had been pressed on with what appeared to be some welding slag on the inside of the sleeve. Ended up cutting that one off.
I believe cobra762 did a tutorial on this subject and posted it in the Tech section of the forum.
it depends on what type of front sight you have. If it is threaded on, you can just unscrew it. If its pinned on (as most now are) you have to grind it down and drill it out.
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the HK sights are welded onto the gas block, the ultimak rail needs to attach there with a mounting screw, so I doubt it would fit. You could cut it down and weld it behind the HK sights I imagine, though I don't know how that would look
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ah there it is, thanks Cobra! (and 1911 for finding my thread)
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Couldn't find my old thread on the jamming problem I was having, so i'm making a new one.
I remember I got some advice that I may have been hitting the bolt hold open lever with my finger and causing the lock-back. So I took a dremel and cut the lever down a bit so when it was pushed in, it is flush with the reciever. Looks nice!
Shot it today, and you guys were right, 200 rounds and not one problem! thanks for the help!
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my thoughts on the ultimak rail are: "i wish they didn't cost so damned much"
when the jb weld eventually comes loose you should be able to find a gunsmith to drill and tap it for less than $50. might get some cold blue or something to protect the bare metal even if the rail covers the work.
you can mail it to gander mountain if you need to. they're site says they'll drill and tap for a single bead for $30.
gander mountain won't work on AK style guns due to corporate policy. They won't touch, transfer, or sell them either. believe me i've tried.
Yeah its probably a good idea to get it drilled and tapped, but I'm just glad/amazed that it held tight during that long shooting session.
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So I just got back from my first shoot where my s12 was wearing its Ultimak rail (M-11L). As some of you know, the position of the screw hole on the gas block was made incorrectly for the newer s-12's. The only solution was to drill and tap your gun.
well I didn't want to do that, so I roughed up the gas block and the underside of the ultimak with emery cloth, and slapped sone JB weld in there instead. I was told this was a really bad idea.
200 rounds later (all heavy slugs and buckshot) and everything is great. no movement at all. I love JB Weld!
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+1 on Cobra's limiters, they work great and are really easy to install.
Also, Tromix/Missisippi Auto Arms sell a floorplate that you can use with a cut-down AGP ten round mag. Just cut down your AGP mag to 2 round capacity, then fit the plate on and there ya go.
either way is easy.
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i reload for the .223, saves me a ton of money
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I'm not sure I get the question... but yes.
I'll try to make it more understandable (thought I already did though)
1) Do you use the Ultimak M11-L with a Saiga IZ-109?
2) Do you use the Ultimak M11-s with a Saiga IZ-108?
yep that's how it works.
Food for thought though. I have a thread on this somewhere, Ismash has changed the front bead sight on the IZ-109. It used to be screwed in, now its posted in, and pretty much un-removable. To get the rail on the gun you have to grind down the bead and either JB Weld it on (what I did, may or may not work) or drill and tap a new hole for the forward screw (Ultimak hasn't changed their design yet and the rails are not compatible with the new IZ-109's without working on them like this.)
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not hard at all. If you can use a dremel and a hand drill you're good to go. If you want some instruction, PM Messiah Jones. He makes a conversion CD that walks you through it step by step, with pictures. Definitly helped me and now I've converted 3.
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that's the ugliest thing I've ever seen on that gun....
Poor S-12, looks like someone tried putting a CETME handguard on it
It's not even lined up lol, it looks bent....
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wow, what are ya charging for one of those beasts?
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I have two of the 30 round .223 surefire mags. They have the built in bullet ramp so you don't need to install one on your gun. Cycles like a champ!
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Ok I would like to part ways with all my left over conversion parts from my brother's Saiga .223. I've got:
Stock and handguard w/sling swivel, and all the leftover internals (everything that was replaced with a G2 trigger set).
Everything is basically new, never been fired, just stored in the box until the conversion was done. Now they are in a different box and taking up space in my closet haha.
How's $30.00 shipped for everything? I can do Paypal (Discrete and +3%), Postal Money Order, and Personal Check (must clear the bank first before I ship).
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ARG! I wish I woulda thought of fishing line! I used twist ties, that sucked!
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that's a grinder, your trusty dremel tool will make short work of it
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its the ammo. Go to a sporting goods store and buy some good heavy buckshot or some slugs. Run about 50-100 of these heavy loads through it to break the gun in and it will be good to go.
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nope its the correct mount, mine doesn't have the vent rib, just a bead sight. My bead sight is about 1/2" back from where the hole on the mount is, right under the weaver rail part.
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I've put about 150 rounds off wolf .45 through my XD, not a single problem!
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i think i need to check my pants
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my new conversion!:
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WTT/WTS 3rd Gen Ipod Touch
in Unsorted Ads prior to November 2012 (WTS / WTT)
Posted
Since I got the Droid Incredible I have no use for my Ipod anymore. It comes in a hard plastic case and used to have a screen protector on it so the screen is mint. The back/chrome area had a protector on it also so there are very few scuff marks that these things usually have. Its the 32 GB model, I've had it for about a year or so. Looking for $150 shipped OBO, will trade for saiga 12 stuff, AR stuff, Glock stuff (i have a 9mm G26) or will entertain other trades as well. Comes with the cable and original hard plastic box it was in in the store.