Rustynuts
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Posts posted by Rustynuts
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You know how it is, Nailbomb - if the kids ain't seen it, "old" is "new" again . . .
Problem is when the SHTF for real (say in a SD situation) people typically lose track of how many shots are fired. Then again, if you run dry with a 10+ mag in an S-12 without solving an SD scenario you've got bigger problems! I know everyone will say they train and train and count their rounds, etc., etc. But in pretty much every real shooting incident, those that are interviewed grossly UNDERestimate how many rounds they fire with the adrenaline flowing.
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Looks cool. Are they "cheating" on the fast reloads? (leaving one in the chamber?) I don't see any LRBHO action, but do have drop-free magwells.
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The "tang" is very close to the "taint". One slip and you're in deep shit!
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+1 per Tony. Tapco does not make a specific S-12 FCG, you need to modify. Involves grinding a few areas on the hammer as well as notching your receiver. I used the dual hook Tapco on mine and bought the extra parts needed separately. Nothing super hard if you are already doing your own conversion. Does take some fitting though and I still need to grind down my hammer a bit as it sticks on the receiver and doesn't reset every time.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kckLMufuObQ&feature=related
I got you all beat. Please be sure to watch the whole video. I'm still laughing.
".....if your rifle jams...f*ck it...throw it"
Try this one. But I warn you, you move your drink far away from your keybroad.
Episode 2 is even better! Check out the portable attack dog and the classic shoot & scoot!
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this however is a "MALL NINJA"
I see your Mall Ninja, and RAISE!
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I believe I just saw an S-12 on Classicarms for $499. Might have been dreaming though.
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Dremels with polishing wheels are notoriously hard to control. They will spin off the object even when you try hard not to and there will be contact with the spinning nut/post which WILL scratch the hell out of whatever you are trying to polish. Use Flitz and elbow grease. That is all. Also, if you reload, or feel the need to polish your loaded brass cartridges, DO NOT use Brasso or other ammonia containing polishes. It can em-brittle the brass. Not a big deal for a belt buckle or buttons, potentially a big deal for highly stressed brass! Yes, some people feel this is a big to-do about nothing, but chemically/metallurgically it is true. Better safe.
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Person holding the camera had too much caffeine!
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Tru-glo shock tests all of their sights. I have one of their reflex sights on my Polish Tantal. They also have a lifetime warranty. Got mine for around $80.
Too bad they don't warranty (or test) their TFO sights the same way. Had some on my XD40SC and the damn fiber optic fell out and got lost (tritium tube was still in there. They wouldn't send me a new fiber tube to glue in, they wanted the sights returned at MY COST. Fuck that, got rid of their shit and swore off them. Their shitty tritium was so dim it was hardly viewable anyway, esp. the yellow.
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I was leaning that way also, but the Chaos looks good too. Just not sure about the aluminum vs steel thing in the threads. Won't it get galvanic corrosion in the threads over time? Seems like the act of threading it on will scratch any anodizing on the brake and/or coating on the barrel threads.
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Not looking to break the bank, just something decent looking to finish off the muzzle and no bag shredding pointy ends! Any other cool ones to check?
Looking at the Chaos Wave, SGM stuff, and the 10-slot "Russian" on MAA.
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These guys on Glock talk all appear to be talking about unconverted saigas. Not everyone out there is as resourcefull as you'll find on this board.
Is that a polite way of calling them IDIOTS? If so, I'm in!
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It's milled out to take the charging handle. A setscrew in the front clams down into the concave part or the charging handle. It's extremely solid.
When are you doing a slip-on Galil style handle? That I would buy as well!
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Went for FAL, ended with FAIL.
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That's fine, go for it, but still not getting the holes not lining up thing on the ACE block? Some of the S-12 cross rivets (stiffeners) will prevent the ACE block from seating all the way. I had to mill off part of the block that sticks in the furthest (shave some of the top of each side until it slid under the stiffener). The pistol grip nut will also play havoc with it. Needs a longer screw. None of the old FCG rivet holes on the sides line up with anything and aren't needed. I had some plastic plugs in mine, but I just left the old holes bare backed by the Ace block. You don't even notice.
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If the child was being supervised, why was he not stopped when he attempted to unfold the stock without pressing the button?
Not to defend the joker, but I don't think he ever alluded to how old his son was. For all we know he's 30 and didn't know it was a button action!
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Talking receiver back plate? Why not just use an ACE internal block? These things work like a charm. AND get the Tromix DIY guard while you're at it. You'll thank yourself.
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Sanding would fix it. Go slow and test fit.
I figured it would come to this dammit! After I went and Moly'd the whole thing!
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This definitely isn't a Chaos bash thread, the rail is awesome. Here's a pic with the Tromix installed, you can see the same down angle. Definitely something weird with my gun if no one else has this issue.
And the same gun with a crappy Tapco installed.
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Actually Havoc AND Chaos bi-pods!
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I don't think that can be adjusted out easy. Fits snug at the rear into the receiver and it's resting fully on the rail & block, not an adjustment screw. If it was angled the other way you could adjust
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Here's a shot of my new Chaos. I don't think the shot is an optical illusion. All the foregrips I've tried on it seem to angle downward (crappy Tapco and Nice Tromix!). Is this normal, or do I have a funky gas block?
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Thanks Chaos!
One side showing w/ ladder rail cover, other blank. No idea why all my foregrips I've tried on this gun seem to angle down. Not sure if it's normal or if i have a goofy gas block.
best paint to use
in Saiga-12
Posted
If you're going to bake, might as well use Norrell's moly resin. AFTER some K-Phos of course!