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Rustynuts

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Posts posted by Rustynuts

  1. Kind of a cold parkerizing. The phosphoric acid will microscopically etch the metal, adhere and form a great base coat for the "paint" (moly resin is technically a coating) to stick. The phos also acts like Naval Jelly and eradicates any flash rust you get after blasting and cleaning prior to spraying. Flash rust is a given here in Florida!

  2. It needs to be cheaper though.I's like to see something that's just a sheetmetal stamping go for about $30 instead of $50.

     

    Considering the Tromix is $45, I have to agree it's too high. I guess since they've got some of the odd calibers and not just the S-12, they can charge what they want!

  3. You basically loop the dental floss several times for strength through the circle in the spring and then down through the BHO slot in the receiver. While you are juggling three things with two hands you simultaneously pull down on the floss to get the spring circle lined up for the pin to slide through. When it's in you then simply cut or slide the floss free. You can also try to bend the end on the spring leg so it doesn't fall off the BHO lever so easily. Look here.

     

    http://forum.saiga-12.com/index.php?showtopic=24599

     

    I think the floss method also has a video on Youtube somewhere showing it.

  4. What's the best way to remove trigger guard without mangling it? My milling bit won't go all the way into the receiver on my drill press. The chuck will hit the receiver before the bit does its thing. Do most just drill them out, or are those rivets too hard? Use a full diameter bit, or a slightly smaller one, then punch the remainder out?

  5. Unfortunately, on my 20, I used the grind off method and milled the rivets from the outside. Much easier that way, but the guard is destroyed in the process. No problem with my 12 since I just used the Tromix. Didn't realize the 20/410 guards were so scarce. I'm going to chop up a Tromix guard for my 20, but I'm about to start a 410 and want to see if the guard on it needs saved.

  6. Wow, now that is nice. I just recieved the same set up today. I was wondering and have a few questions. The ace internal reciever block, does it just slide into the space the the old stock fit in? I know I have to remove a little material to clear the reciever support, and the base to clear the tromix trigger guard button head screw. Only thing I'm not sure about is, the tang removal, is this the only other thing I need to do to fit it in? Anyone have some pictures of what it should look like? Like a before and after? Thanks for any help.

     

    Yes, on the block, a little off the top, and a little off the bottom! For the tang, it was a bit of elbow grease with a metal file. To get most of the tang off, I used an angle grinder VERY CAREFULLY! Then went to town with the file. I used some blue painters tape around the receiver during most of the filing. For the last little bit, you have to remove the tape and be careful until it good and flush. Touched up any stray marks with a bluing pen. Probably took me the better part of an hour to get the tang done.

  7. I don't see anything wrong with that one. The thread protector is not considered a muzzle device. As such, a stock Saiga-12 supposedly has 13 parts as per ATF. If I remove the mag and replace with an AGP mag (3 parts), I am left with 10 parts which is perfectly legal.

     

    The argument is not on the protector itself, it's the THREADS. By having them there, you "could" pop on a muzzle device in about 30-seconds. A bit similar to carbine AR-15's with the 14.5" barrels. The get to the "legal" 16", the muzzle device has to be affixed PERMANENTLY. You can't just thread it on. Same argument by the BATF, if it's not welded/pinned, you could take it off in 30-seconds thereby making it an SBR.

  8. Got my Ace folding equipment on with the Ace internal block, and a new Tromix foregrip. Clearance is great on the folder. I was worried about it blocking my trigger finger as I wanted left fold and I'm a lefty. No problem as you see. Probably even room for side optic mount. Need to get rid of the Tapco PG later. Still need flash hider and new sights. The Tromix grip is MUCH better than the Tapco crud. The Ace internal block is right up there with the Tromix DIY trigger guard as an A+++ product. Once you get past filing the tang off, and fitting the block a little, snugs up solid with one bolt. Amazing!

     

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  9. For the record. I just did the Ace Internal block conversion on my S-12. Slapped on an Ace push-button folding mechanism and an Ace 8.5" folding stock. Works great! No problems with clearance for the trigger finger and the mechanism holds the stock out far enough from the receiver that I think I can even use the side optics mount still. Have to get pics up later.

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