Saigaczech
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Posts posted by Saigaczech
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922r
in Saiga .308
Make sure your stuff is US made. There are many parts available now that are not 922r compliant, being either made in Israel or China. Stay away from anything made by CAA or Leapers/UTG if you want to use it for compliance. Stocks, pistol grips and trigger groups can be had from Tapco or K-Var, both have US compliant parts for sale. Pistons tend to be a Tapco product. I used a K-Var Stock, Tapco trigger group and pistol grip for my conversion. My magazines are from FBMG but they seem to have stopped production so your only choice for a .308 Saiga would be Surefire. Not sure any one makes a drop in Saiga 308 handguard, all others need modification of some sort. Hope this helps. Good luck on your build.
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I understand Faraday cages, I just question their effectiveness. Can you shunt that much away to ground? I guess probably so as the school I went to in NM used them to safeguard the atmospheric physicists doing lightning research. Had a large mobile home turned into a Faraday cage and some poor bastard sat in it watching instruments. Then they shot up rockets trailing wires to attract lightning strikes. The instrumentation did not always survive but the human subject did. Guess it was different for the USAF planes as they have no clear way to shunt to ground. Most planes are lightning proof but not their avionics, at least not 100%. Wonder if the induced surge behaves differently then a direct strike, USAF planes survived lighting but they feared EMP still.. I was in a different program, did not follow it too closely. My problem with the basic car models is if the ignition coils will survive. I understand that EMP burn conductors out in such arrangements too.
BTW, electron tubes are also susceptible, just not as much as transistors. They can take more of jolt.
I see no reason why there would be an 'upper limit' to the amount of energy that a Faraday cage chould shunt to ground, so long as the surface is unbroken. It's not like the charge stays on the outside of the conductor until you turn the knob up to 11
The situation with lightning and planes is a little different. Planes getting struck by lightning is a common occurrence, and most of the time the only way pilots are made aware of it is if somebody else sees it and tells them. There's no danger in lightning striking a plane as it's not grounded. Most of the time the bolt will continue from the plane to another cloud or occasionally to the ground (if the plane is flying low enough). Nearly all of the energy is contained in the bolt itself. The difference with EMP is that rather than being concentrated in a "bolt" it propagates more like a pulse wave, and the non-metal surfaces of the plane (glass) are transparent to it. Avionics getting the finger likely results from the strike being near the antenna or whatever sensor the device is connected to, finding the potential of the airframe through the device.
The only danger I understand for vacuum tubes (and electron tubes in general) would be an induced current on a filament or other wire vaporizing it. However, tubes are a lot easier to built or repair in a workshop than transistors. The only really difficult step in building a tube is creating the vacuum and sealing it, but in a worst-case scenario, even hand vacuum pumps (being squeezed as quickly as possible!) could create a partial vacuum and allow a circuit to work. Vacuum pump in one hand, J-38 in the other
There's an amazing video of an older gentleman who makes his own tubes from start to finish here.Unfortunately, nearly all the research results dealing with EMPs are highly guarded by various TLAs and they ain't tellin us.
Oh, and not everybody who sits in a Faraday cage is a poor bastard -- some people are insane bastards!
Makes sense. Do not know enough about permeability of ground surfaces to dispute being able to disperse a pulse induced charge. I would make sure I used a real deep ground anchor though. I think one of the problems may be currents induced in the ground linkage traveling back along it and preventing a discharge of the cage. All of these fields will occur simultaneously on all surfaces (for all practical purposes, I know I am discussing an ideal case) so there will be current induced along the ground wire anchor as well as the Faraday cage. Normally the cage gets hit first and shunts directionally along the ground anchor, this may not happen, never tested it myself as I do not have access to EMP devices. My background in electronics and EM is three semesters of university level physics on the subject, I specialized in astrophysics while I majored in the field.. Ended up getting a biomed degree instead (got tired of the endless math). Many of my buddies though went on to work at White Sands, Sandia or Los Alamos. Got most of my dope through them, at least what they could talk about. Fun subject though.
And yeah, I seen those science exhibits too.
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Since it looks like you are attracted to all steel construction, check out a Beretta 92/96. Great gun, I had one while I went through the Academy.
Berettas are not all steel, just the slide is. The frame is aluminum alloy. Only exception may be the INOX stainless, but all the others I have handled have had alloy frames and steel slides.
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The Springfield XD-9 is nice too. Not the XDM-9, the XD-9. I have three, the tactical 5", the 4" service and a 4" ported V-10 model. All shoot great, no malfunctions. Once I did 3000 rounds during a course over the weekend, no malfunctions. 16+1 capacity and the XD cost much less then XDM. Great ergonomics also, very CZ-75 like. I have too much invested in XD-9 accessories to switch models for a more expensive one. ALso the XD is tested, the XDM is not. Your choice though. Both should come with 2 mags, holster and mag carrier as part of package if bought new.
I also think a Taurus PT92/99 are worth a look. They are actually Berettas made on original Beretta tooling that was sold to Taurus after the Brazilian army contract ran out for Beretta. The plus side is at leas $200 less then a Beretta and frame mounted thumb safety/decocker. You can carry this condition one, cocked and locked, or decock for DA trigger first shot. Capacity is 17+1 in 9mm. I have two PT99s, one blued and one stainless. The PT 99 has adjustable sights. All the new ones also have an accessory rail on the frame, mine are older without any rails. Very reliable and quite accurate.
BTW, if you get a XD-45 do NOT get the service model, get a tactical. Also avoid all caliber XD subcompacts. The way the captive recoil rod is manufactured it can unscrew and jam your gun up real good. On the other caliber service models (not .45 ACP) you can get a replacement full length guide rod and use 1911 springs for the Springfield 1911 lightweight Compact models. The rod is available from Pistolgear.com. All of the tactical models use a full length guide rod and standard 1911 springs, so it is no issue.
Hope this helps.
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I might consider getting another kit for spare parts. Never know when you will need some. Luckily I got my first kit when they still had the original 12" barrels, talk about a signature though.
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CZ-75 in 9mm all the way. Cheaper ammo, great ergonomics, combat proven, high capacity and superb accuracy. My only suggestion would be to get one with a thumb safety and not the decocker. The DA pull on CZs is a bit long and heavy, keep it in condition one for nice SA trigger pull. A new one should cost in the $500 range depending on bells and whistles. They used to sell for under $400 but not anymore. I have two CZ-75 SP01s that I bought for $509, but that was how long ago? SP01s come with tritium sights and rail as standard and a 18+1 capacity (can take standard 15 or 16 round CZ mags too) which makes them a very good choice.
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Not sure a grounding wire would be any help. The pulse intensity really does burn through most stuff. AFWL at Kirkland had more or less proven you can't harden against it in a practical way. BTW, I suggested 5 or more devices as that would probably optimize coverage and burst strength. It depends of how much shielding you want to burn through. If you want to stay mobile afterwards invest in a bike (not a motorbike), a horse or oxen. EMP is mighty bad juju. OH yeah, all those neat LED and tactical lights that are out there, they will fry too. Stock up on torches and candles.
See my comments above about grounding and Faraday cages.
EMP mostly only affects nonlinear junctions. The most common application is transistors, so pretty much anything more complicated than a heater or a lamp will get the finger. LEDs will probably be boned too since they are p-n junctions (same as in a transistor). But non-LED flashlights should be just fine. Vacuum tubes are pretty much unaffected as well. The Soviets feared EMP attacks - during most of the cold war, Soviet planes still used tubes for their avionics.
Most motorcycles aren't fuel injected and should be easy to repair after an EMP. Diesel engines are the same way, same with any car old enough to not have a computer. If an EMP were to go off, you'd see a resurgence in vacuum tubes, diesels, motorcycles, and classic cars.
I understand Faraday cages, I just question their effectiveness. Can you shunt that much away to ground? I guess probably so as the school I went to in NM used them to safeguard the atmospheric physicists doing lightning research. Had a large mobile home turned into a Faraday cage and some poor bastard sat in it watching instruments. Then they shot up rockets trailing wires to attract lightning strikes. The instrumentation did not always survive but the human subject did. Guess it was different for the USAF planes as they have no clear way to shunt to ground. Most planes are lightning proof but not their avionics, at least not 100%. Wonder if the induced surge behaves differently then a direct strike, USAF planes survived lighting but they feared EMP still.. I was in a different program, did not follow it too closely. My problem with the basic car models is if the ignition coils will survive. I understand that EMP burn conductors out in such arrangements too.
BTW, electron tubes are also susceptible, just not as much as transistors. They can take more of jolt.
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Sorry to hear it. Hope you get it back. I never leave my guns in cars for this reason.
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Not sure a grounding wire would be any help. The pulse intensity really does burn through most stuff. AFWL at Kirkland had more or less proven you can't harden against it in a practical way. BTW, I suggested 5 or more devices as that would probably optimize coverage and burst strength. It depends of how much shielding you want to burn through. If you want to stay mobile afterwards invest in a bike (not a motorbike), a horse or oxen. EMP is mighty bad juju. OH yeah, all those neat LED and tactical lights that are out there, they will fry too. Stock up on torches and candles.
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I got one. Love the Hogue stock, very nice feel. Seems to be decent gun, good trigger, action is smooth. Can't account to accuracy much, not a sniper/tactical rifleman but can make sub MOA groups when needed. It keeps my Savage 10FP Tactical rifle company.
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Spent it with the neighbors, a block party. Lots of food, some decent booze and screaming kids all over the place. Ended up playing some of those lame ass adult party games, like Scattergories. At midnight I popped the cork on some imported bubbly I brought for the occasion and we all drank a glass and remembered those no longer here for a minute. Later set off some fireworks and called it a night. Happy New Year everyone, hope it is better then the last.
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Hmm, two out of how many millions? Let's face it, the average American no longer has the will or the conviction to do what is right. Just give him Pizza Hut and Monday night football and they will not rock the boat. Most people no longer have any idea what the constitution is about or why the revolution was fought. Literacy and knowledge of history are frowned upon while brainless worship of sport hero criminals is popular.
I really doubt any demonstration would be more successful then that of the WWI vets in DC so long ago. Patton was sent in to crush them and he did. The country applauded. The majority of people are too lazy and self absorbed in their pathetic meaningless lives to get involved in any issues, I see this just from attending my home owners association meetings and those are a lot more involved and closer to their lives. . Democracy will fail here as it did in other places. America had ceased to be a nation of men and patriots and is now a field of sheep.
Sorry if I offend but this to me seems to be the ugly truth. We, those who understand the issues, are a minority and not numerous enough to make any difference.
I see a sad time ahead for most gun owners. Most of it blamed on the pathetic loss of an American heritage and tradition. The rest is the evil rantings of uninformed news media, Hollywood and power obsessed politicians. Hopefully the next American nation will make the ownership of guns MANDATORY for all free men and women. Only then will liberty and freedom again reign in this land.
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Dillon is the way to go. I have a Lee press but only use it for decapping military brass before swaging the primer crimp out. Dillon stands behind their press and the 500 is the way to go. I do however use Lee dies, those are a great buy.
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if there are any sort of nuke throwing going on we are all screwed anyway for about the next 20000 years. EMP pulse without nukes seems unlikely. i think the best way to survive is already be somewhere safe.
I would be more worried about abreakdown of society due to fuel/depression/enemy takeover etc. If I did have a survival kit it would be a bike, a good sleeping bag, a tarp, a hatchet or axe and a shovel. if I was going to have a firearm I think I would get by with nothing but a saiga 12. It will shoot rabbits, deer or people depending on what's in it. i also don't need to worry as much about what ammo is in it. Everything else I am hoping I can sort out along the way. If our water supply has been poisoned we are pretty much fucked as well.
Actually a limited amount of very high altitude/low orbit nukes is survivable, only electronics would fry. Fallout would be very limited and all of the armed forces would be quite limited in their capability after. No more high tech toys, vehicles or communications. The fun part is you would not need many nukes, the area of effect from such a burst is very very wide. I think you could take out the whole continent with no more then 5 or so with very high altitude/suborbital bursts. No need for really precise guidance systems either, just need to make sure they go off simultaneously lest they be fratricidal. Difficult but doable by any of the major nuclear powers, but why would they want to. Nothing Ahmed is likely to be able to do in any event.
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if there are any sort of nuke throwing going on we are all screwed anyway for about the next 20000 years. EMP pulse without nukes seems unlikely. i think the best way to survive is already be somewhere safe.
I would be more worried about abreakdown of society due to fuel/depression/enemy takeover etc. If I did have a survival kit it would be a bike, a good sleeping bag, a tarp, a hatchet or axe and a shovel. if I was going to have a firearm I think I would get by with nothing but a saiga 12. It will shoot rabbits, deer or people depending on what's in it. i also don't need to worry as much about what ammo is in it. Everything else I am hoping I can sort out along the way. If our water supply has been poisoned we are pretty much fucked as well.
Actually a limited amount of very high altitude/low orbit nukes is survivable, only electronics would fry. Fallout would be very limited and all of the armed forces would be quite limited in their capability after. No more high tech toys, vehicles or communications. The fun part is you would not need many nukes, the area of effect from such a burst is very very wide. I think you could take out the whole continent with no more then 5 or so with very high altitude/suborbital bursts. No need for really precise guidance systems either, just need to make sure they go off simultaneously lest they be fratricidal. Difficult but doable by any of the major nuclear powers, but why would they want to. Nothing Ahmed is likely to be able to do in any event.
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Thanks for the input. Yeah, I figured it was the selector switch but was not sure. Knew they gave up on the full auto after they figured out it was quite uncontrollable. The polymer stock I am talking about is the standard one with rubber buttpad that comes with the M1A from the Springfield Factory. From what I just read on the Springfield website it is fiberglass, not polymer, my bad. Guess I will keep both, one for show and one for performance. I knew the fiberglass stock was not susceptible to warpage already. Probably will try the gun out with both stock to see how they do compared to each other too. I paid $50 cash for the wood stock, seen them on gunbroker for $85+ without all the metal accessories, guess I did OK. The M14/M1A has been a must have rifle of mine for long time, glad I was able to get one when they were cheaper, paid only $1000 for it.
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One thing that you may want to add to your bug out kit in the car is a extra distributor with points and a coil. Zombies no but in the event the "Big Brother" may want to contain or stop enmasse vehicles to contain with a EM pulse. One shot and no amount of planning with your vehicle will matter your dead in the water so to speak. Points distributors will not be effected, but your will have to plan on having a older vehicle to put this on.
As was said before you have tops one hour and then you had best batten the hatches down and try and wait it out.
This is my government/zombie SHTF vehicle.
The nice part will be that all the "big brother" electronics in the area will fry too. No more radios, night vision, or electronic weapon sights. All their vehicles will be stranded too, including any and all aircraft ( all are fly by wire now and rely too much on electronics to function). I doubt that "big brother" would try this as it would mean too much loss of C3 component of their forces. They want to maintain control, this would interfere with that plan. No electronics means no commo, which means operational chaos.
BTW, I am not sure but your spare parts may fry too. Induction is induction and unless you are in a really big Faraday cage your any circuitry you own will get fried. A buddy of mine used to do EMP hardening testing for the USAF at Kirkland AFB, he said there is no way to shield anything from a good pulse. It will all go the way of the dodo. EMP is serious shit.
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I have a Springfield M1A rifle. It is a full sized one and it came with the polymer stock. Recently at a gun show I saw and bought a veteran wood M14 stock in really nice shape, including all the buttplate hardware. Now I need to decide if I should keep the polymer stock or sell it. The wood stock looks so much better on the rifle. There is only one possible problem with it, there is a slight relief on the rear right of the receiver channel. Seems the original military M14 had something there and now there is a small open gap in the wood stock through which I can look into the trigger group. I would be grateful if some of you old timers who were issued M14s could tell me what was there that needed the wood to be relieved so. Also asking opinions if I should keep the original stock or not.
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you should really look into the CZ SP-01 Shadow model. it has better sights and a better trigger.
the P-01 and SP-01 (non-shadow) are overall good performers for self defense, but if you're looking for some more active shooting (amateur IPSC for fun) i'd strongly suggest the Shadow.
I use a standard SP01s. Prefer them to the over worked stuff from the custom shop, spending more money will not help if you are not a good shot already and if you are you really do not need all the bells and whistles anyway. I converted one to an SAO trigger and the other to a CZ-85 trigger. The stock short radius trigger on them sucks, cuts into my trigger finger. All CZ triggers wear in smooth with use. I suggest getting only the thumb safety models, the decocker models have DA first shot that sucks, better to avoid it and stay with cocked and locked with safety on.
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My obvious reason is two-fold. Number one is that the Glock barrels are unsupported at the 6 o'clock position which leads to swelling of the case and in the case of +P, +P+ or hot homeloads sometimes a catastrophic failure. My second is that for the Glocks to be as totally reliable as they are they must of necessity have loose tolerances. IMO these two combined would keep me from ever having a Glock for use with a higher pressure cartridge. My daughter has a Model 21 (I think) that I gave her. (Full size .45acp) Before I gave it to her though it had a Bar-Sto barrel in it. I just wasn't comfortable with anything less. I also wasn't comfortable giving her a 2-3K custom pistol either.
I really think that you would enjoy a revolver in that specific application: If you can find someplace that will rent them for you to try out and find one that is suitable to you. The cartridge choice is much more wide open in the revolver as Termite said there is the .454 Casull as well as cartriges all the way up to the 45-70 Govt. Good luck and take your time. If you will not hurrry, you should end up with a pistol/revolver that will serve you the rest of your life. Personally I would want something stouter than the 10mm for a Mountain Lion but it would be fine for a Bobcat imo. 1911
Actually the GLock 21 and 30 models are quite nice with the stock barrel. I won several GSSF Major SubCompact divisions with the Glock 30, ended up winning three guns and getting my master classification in GSSF. The .45 ACP is a low pressure round in standard 230 gr factory loading and quite reliable and accurate for what the gun was designed to do, self-defense. I have not seen any major problems with the brass thickness yet for reloads. Now a 10mm, .357 SIG or a .40 S&W chambering in a Glock is asking for trouble due to unsupported chamber. Can you say exploding tupperware?
As to a back up hunting pistol I would go with a caliber like a .357 magnum in a 4" revolverat a minimum. If you have bear or cougar in your area, nothing less then a .45 Long Colt or .44 Magnum, again in a 4" revolver with heavy loads. Bring enough gun. Remember, at close range you may only have time for one shot, make it count. IF expecting bear remove the front sights and make sure it is well greased. That way it wont hurt too much when the bear shoves it up your ***.
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The older ones have stamped sheet metal slides. They are available as certified pre-owned from the SIG factory shop. They are refurbished (new parts and springs and refinished) service pistols turned in for newer models. When I bought one a couple of years ago it was just this side of $600 or so for one. The new one have solid steel slides. All of the frames are either alloy or polymer except for a few completely stainless models which cost $$$$ and are very heavy.
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Actually, I have plenty experience with one (actually more then one), that is why I do not recommend them. I don't care what government agencies say, the gun is not the best choice out there. I can use them, just prefer not to.
Well we will just have to agree to disagree.
It is one of the few handguns I have never had a malfunction with.
Never said it malfunctioned. I just do not like the way they feel and handle. Guns are very personal, your hotness may be the worst thing ever to others.
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you can actually build your own 1911 if your up to it, i'm looking into doing it myself, starting with a STI frame. But really, the best 1911 out of the box i've handled to date is the Les Baer thunder ranch model 1911, no jams, super accurate. also +1 for STI, wilson combat, and i'm starting to hear good feedback on Nighthawk customs http://www.nighthawkcustom.com/default.aspx
That is probably the best way to go. Building a 1911 is one of the easier gun projects one can do. Just make sure to get good parts.
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It is looking like I am the only one on here that actually has any real experience with Sigs...................
Actually, I have plenty experience with one (actually more then one), that is why I do not recommend them. I don't care what government agencies say, the gun is not the best choice out there. I can use them, just prefer not to.
922r
in Saiga .308
Posted
He is looking for Saiga 308 conversion, that has 16 parts I believe. Trigger group is three parts, stock is one, pistol grip is another and piston would be another. All together switching those out would make him quite compliant. The Siaga 308 does not have a muzzle device so unless he adds one he does not have to worry about it.