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uglyrussian308

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Posts posted by uglyrussian308

  1. I've had FALs, AR 10s and M14s (M1A). Get the Saiga and convert it. My Saiga is a 16.5. With good hunting ammo I can usually keep 20 shots into about half an E-target at 300 yards, from the prone position, with the iron AK sights. That's good enough for me. The G2 trigger will work, as Cobra 76 two mentioned with slight mod to the safety. Side folder installation is easy. Mine has an extra short ACE side folder with a SAW pistol grip.

  2. Conversion should have no effect. Short of screwing up your barrel crown when you thread it for the flash suppressor, there is really nothing in the regular conversion that should cause any degradation of accuracy. Mine shoots as good as ever. I did however elect not to thread my barrel.

  3. I have been trying to find a decent sling attachment for my S308 that will accomodate a three point sling. I have the rear attachment figured out (see pics) but I have yet to come up with something bullet proof for the front. Has anyone found a decent sling attachment device that will clamp tightly on the barrel forward of the gas block?

    post-8920-1205103828_thumb.jpg

    post-8920-1205103842_thumb.jpg

  4. Mine did the same thing.

     

    I fixed mine when I converted my 308s to pistol grip. When I attached the trigger guard I added metal on to the mag catch plate to increase tightness of the lock up. It now locks up tight on the catch. There is still some very slight side to side play but its nothing like the wobble it exhibited before it was modified.

     

    The draw back of this mod is I can't use the eight rounders unless of course I file the engagement lug on the mag to fit. No big deal since I don't use the eight rounders anymore.

  5. I picked up two more old M16 30 round mag pouches today for 3.50 each at a local army surplus store. These things are well used but the price is hard to beat. They work great with two FBMGs once you make a couple of adjustments.

  6. I am in the middle of doing my conversion and after grinding down the rivets on the trigger plate and removing it and the trigger guard, I noticed that there is no hole between the PG nut hole and the trigger hole - should it have had one? Should I have drilled all the way through on BOTH rivets on the tigger guard to make that rear hole for the new placement of the trigger guard?

     

    The reason I wasn't sure about doing it was during grinding it it popped off and then that plate was spot welded in 2 places side by side, not one in the center.

     

    Thanks for any help.

     

    They don't come with a hole for the rear trigger guard rivet. You will need to make one.

  7. If they will not work, we will encourage you to play with them as much as you want to to see if they will wear in or work. Short of destroying them, we will swap them right away or when ever you are done playing with them. We dealt with some more issues with this batch, some got to cool a few seconds longer than others and hence the follower drag. If you send them back, we will swap them. We take those back to the plastic company and they give us credit towards the next batch.

     

    To solve the problem in the next run, regardless of cooling time we have opened up the insert 4 thousandths of an inch.

     

     

    I appreciate that! That's the kind of proactive customer service response that motivates me to buy more. I am confident that they will work now. I will advise after try them out this weekend.

  8. All, Thanks for the input.

     

    Shooting was done in 55 degree F weather so cold was not an issue. Ammo was LC M118 LR and hand loads have worked fine out of the stock 8 rounders. I did reluctantly spray some lube on the followers when I reassembled the mags. It seems to help but I hope it doesn't become a dirt magnet. Based on how the top round now reacts to compression, I'm hopeful that they will all work. I will test fire this weekend and report.

  9. Try some Remington .308 125gr. Corlokts. They are relatively cheap at 150.00 per 1000. They shoot very well out of several of my hunting rifles including my Saiga 308 - 16". I have been using 46gr of AA 2520 and have shot groups as small as 1.5" at 100. Noslers are great but IMO a bit pricey for a cheap Russian blaster.

  10. Mine was also difficult to remove initially. The takedown lever has a cam on its axle which locks the tube in to place. Make sure the lever is rotated to a position where you can visually see that the cam on the lever axle allows the tube to clear. After verifying that the lever is where it needs to be, pull up hard on the gas tube from the rear. It may take some deliberate pulling during initial disassembly.

  11. FAL vs. Saiga? I've had them both.

     

    My Saiga has been less temperamental than my FAL. I had to open gas port to get the FAL to work with 16" barrel reliably. Once I did that it ran fine. My Saiga my 16" 308S has yet to malfunction with a mix of 308 ammo. Unfortunately Saiga magazines are expensive. Also my FAL's bore was not chrome lined. That's a reliability plus for the Saiga. On one occasion my FAL was stored without cleaning in a vehicle for a couple of months after a range session. Copper corrosion and powder fouling must have taken set in the gas tube because it would not cycle the next time I shot it. This problem was corrected with liberal doses of CLP and firing 3-4 rounds (had no cleaning gear with me). I haven't "rode hard and put away wet" my Saiga like that yet but I suspect the chrome bore and chrome gas piston will probably prevent this from happening under the same circumstances. Accuracy in my experience (FAL vs. Saiga) seems about the same. I guess when you compare a total gun package (magazines, Saiga conversion parts etc.) in dollars and cents they are pretty close given the cost of Saiga mags. IMHO the FAL has greater visual appeal but the Saiga is more robust and reliable.

  12. Actually from my experience and that of quite a few others it seems that the 16" is just a tad MORE accurate than the 22"

    Maybe it`s the barrel harmonics, who knows but my 16" is a fuzz more accurate than my 22".

    With a red star trigger and carefully tuned handloads my 22" would do 1.25" at 100 yds from the bench, my 16" shoots 1" with handloads and once in a while if I hold my mouth just right and I didnt drink too much coffee that morning I can squeeze in a sub MOA group.

    Funny thing is, both rifles shot their best with 125 gr. ballistic tips, 150 gr. bullets in both gave ho-hum performance and 168 gr. bullets truly sucked.

    You`ll lose about 150-200 FPS from the short barrel but gain handiness and a bit of accuracy, nothing I`m planning on shooting will notice 150 fps. so I like the 16"

    Your mileage may vary.

    Bossman

     

    Interesting you should mention your experience with the 125 Ballistic Tip. My 16" barreled Saiga 308 also likes 125s. It shoots hand loaded 125 Remington Corelokt SP bullet very well. 1.5" - 2" groups off the bench using the iron sights are not uncommon. I haven't clocked them yet but I sure they are screaming. The 150s, 165s and 175s are ok but don't seem to group as well. I have shot several of our local 150Lb deer with this 125 grain 308 load out of my bolt gun and its perfromance on game this size has been great.

  13. Very nice T30!

    I've been thinking about a fiber sight as well and had picked up the same rods from Brownell's a while back. Sharing your work here is a motivater to start spinning stock in the Smithy. Are you a machinist by trade? Again, nice work.

     

    Thanks

     

    Although trained years ago machine work is just a hobby for me. These skills come in handy when you want to rebarrel a poor shooting rifle or build a new toy.

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